Husky79

Greetings all! The problems are bolded as this post is long.

I purchased a 05 TL 6mt in end of Aug '13 with 143,xxx miles for $8,000.

When I purchased it, I was aware of its mileage knowing that time will come that some parts will fail and will need replacing. I do all the work on my vehicles and recreational vehicles.

However short story, company made some changes, my hours cut down, less hours equals less money... So budget of maybe 300-500 is all I might be able to do after Christmas.

Problem 1

The clutch now is starting to chatter more in a hurry up acceleration not hard. (it started about 10k miles ago but was very light and happened once in a while). Which clearly states that the clutch is going to give out anytime. There is no slips at all though, except for a slight slip doing hard 3rd gear change under full acceleration. The TL has 157,2xx miles on it now. The clutch is original. Before I bought the car, I did ask the previous owner if he ever got it replaced, he said no.

I've replaced several clutches since my first clutch change on my 92 Accord in 1997.

I have read a few threads here, some of you say that a special PP tool from Honda is needed to install new clutch. Plus that a new flywheel is a must.

I have never used a special tool to install new clutches on the orginial flywheel that has been resurfaced, all those clutches performed just fine. I've never had clutches fail on me that were under 65k miles on it. Had a H22A powered 95 Civic hatch for a few years, abused the living crap of it, never failed me. That was a FUN reliable little car! I miss it!

Anyways, in my reading on here, people have said that the reasoning of needing special tool is because the TL clutches are self adjusting.. I looked at some pictures to compare the difference from the clutches of my previous vehicles, I don't see much difference in the PP?

It's clearly I won't be able to afford the tool, I don't think the dealer will let me borrow it. Plus I can't afford a flywheel, 450 bucks for it. Why can't the TL flywheel be resurfaced? Maybe I overlooked some posts that did explain the reasoning.

Problem 2

The passenger side axle needs to be replaced, its clicking in turns. I checked the boots, they are fine.

Problem 3 possibility related to bad cv joint

It's winter here now in MN, snow is everywhere now, the day the storm came in, I swapped to snow tires, Hankook Icebear WS300 235/45/17. It was the same day I first started driving on snow in the TL, so I am not sure what the problem is. The problem is that when I come to every stop, and start out in 1st gear on snow/ice, the passenger tire hops every time the tire slips, doesn't matter which direction I am turning or going straight. doesn't matter how VERY lightly I am on the gas, just a slight slip under 5mph it hops.... That's the thing that annoys me the most. It only happens under 5mph, but now I'm noticing it to start to move up towards 10mph. I have checked all the ball joints, steering linkages, bushings and such, they all look good.

The only few things I can point my finger on to is that the shock might be blown, but the car rides fine on the road, no signs of bad shock at all.

Tires can't be out of balance because it is fine after it grips.

Trans mount bad?

Bad passenger side cv joint worn out causing it to get out of balance at low shaft rpm and stabilizes after it reaches a certain shaft rpm?

If just a oem clutch from like O'Reillys will be just fine without special tools, then I might be able to do the clutch and both axles at the same time.

But if a flywheel and tool is a absolute must, then I have to make a choice do the clutch/flywheel first or do the axles first. It's hard to predict which one will give out sooner... I wish parts can talk to us and tell us what needs to be done!

ez12a

1. You do not need a special tool as long as you keep the SAC mechanism unsprung. It comes unsprung from LUK but can be sprung by dropping, or jarring the mechanism. It can be reset manually without any special tools. (see: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...h-can-be-reset! )

Picture of the tiny springs:


The springs must be in the compressed position as you assemble the clutch.

Can't offer any opinion on the flywheel.

2. Since you know the axle is probably bad just replace it anyway and see if that resolves your other problem. The boot doesnt have to crack and spill grease to be bad. Mine wasn't when I replaced it. The noise which is the axle binding i guess could affect that wheel in low traction conditions.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you can resurface the fly wheel, although not recommended.