'04 TL Automatic Transmission failure??? Any experts
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
'04 TL Automatic Transmission failure??? Any experts
I have a 2004 Acura TL Auto, always been serviced at an Acura dealer, etc etc. Fluid and filter changed frequently (Every other oil change, drain and fill with Z1). My Fiance driving home today had it come out of gear (not really a pop) and she called me. She pulled over and put the car in park, then back in gear, same issue, felt like it was not engaging at all.
This is the important part; shutting the car off and back on fixes it, for a few miles/minutes at least. Exactly the same as this thread;
http://www . acura world . com /forums/f72/2004-transmission-problem-please-help-88882/
(Won't let me post the site together sorry)
So this is the exact happenings (When its hot, hasnt had a chance to cool);
-Start it up, shifts perfectly into Reverse, Neutral and Drive, as usual (never had any issues before today)
-After cycling between reverse and drive engaging in gear starts to become delayed, 5 seconds, then 7, then 10, and then after I have cycled back and forth between R and D 20 times it simply does not engage and the car hops a little and you can feel it trying to catch.
-Again, shutting the car off and restarting completely resolves any hesitation or issues, car shifts normally into R, N, D for minutes/miles.
-No lights on yet (Forum mentioned P0741)
After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix, obviously I don't want to drain my pocket, so my question is, has anyone experienced this and dove into a cheaper fix?
I really hate replacing a transmission that shifts absolutely perfectly every time you cycle it. It seems like an engine cycle fixing the issue means electrical, not mechanical...
Maintenance;
-20,000 ago; 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
-10,000 ago; Neutral safety switch
-Every 5-10k Z1 drain and fill (Done again about 1000 ago)
-10,000 ago; Transmission filter
Thank you for any help, let me know if you need any other info.
-Adrian
This is the important part; shutting the car off and back on fixes it, for a few miles/minutes at least. Exactly the same as this thread;
http://www . acura world . com /forums/f72/2004-transmission-problem-please-help-88882/
(Won't let me post the site together sorry)
So this is the exact happenings (When its hot, hasnt had a chance to cool);
-Start it up, shifts perfectly into Reverse, Neutral and Drive, as usual (never had any issues before today)
-After cycling between reverse and drive engaging in gear starts to become delayed, 5 seconds, then 7, then 10, and then after I have cycled back and forth between R and D 20 times it simply does not engage and the car hops a little and you can feel it trying to catch.
-Again, shutting the car off and restarting completely resolves any hesitation or issues, car shifts normally into R, N, D for minutes/miles.
-No lights on yet (Forum mentioned P0741)
After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix, obviously I don't want to drain my pocket, so my question is, has anyone experienced this and dove into a cheaper fix?
I really hate replacing a transmission that shifts absolutely perfectly every time you cycle it. It seems like an engine cycle fixing the issue means electrical, not mechanical...
Maintenance;
-20,000 ago; 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
-10,000 ago; Neutral safety switch
-Every 5-10k Z1 drain and fill (Done again about 1000 ago)
-10,000 ago; Transmission filter
Thank you for any help, let me know if you need any other info.
-Adrian
Last edited by 3g_ace; 07-30-2012 at 06:36 PM.
#2
Since you have done just about every last thing you can do to the outside of the transmission without taking it apart I will suggest one last thing to check before giving up.
There are 3 metal tube filters under the Linear Solenoid Block that can get plugged with debris so I would suggest checking them out. Here are a couple of pictures to help you with their location. They are basically under the intake boot when you move it out of the way. You can pull them out with needle nose pliers after you remove the Linear Solenoid Block. When removing the Linear Solenoid Block there are also 3 o-rings that go to the 3 metal tube filters so do not lose them.
I would also do a 3x3 with Type-F transmission fluid to get a little more bite to the plates you have left. The creamy (friction modifiers) Z1 was designed to slip way to much.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223784/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223784/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223792/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223792/
.
There are 3 metal tube filters under the Linear Solenoid Block that can get plugged with debris so I would suggest checking them out. Here are a couple of pictures to help you with their location. They are basically under the intake boot when you move it out of the way. You can pull them out with needle nose pliers after you remove the Linear Solenoid Block. When removing the Linear Solenoid Block there are also 3 o-rings that go to the 3 metal tube filters so do not lose them.
I would also do a 3x3 with Type-F transmission fluid to get a little more bite to the plates you have left. The creamy (friction modifiers) Z1 was designed to slip way to much.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223784/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223784/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223792/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/6055223792/
.
#4
Redline Racing Type-F ATF is a popular choice. I also have an 04 TL AT and I just did a 3x3 with 8qt. of Redline Racing ATF and 1qt. of the Redline D4 synthetic. It shifts a lot better now, firm quick shifts. My reason for the 8qt. of Racing Type-F Fluid and 1qt. of D4 synthetic is to keep the amount of Type-F fluid at a certain percentage. The thread below explains it.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
#5
3g_ace
"After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix"
I do not want to get your hopes up to high that you will be able to fix the problem with the suggestions above as more than likely you will need to replace the transmission or at the very least the torque converter. Those are just a few suggestions before throwing in the towel and since more than likely you will need to have the transmission replaced there is no need to put expensive Redline ATF in it for now. I do myself use Redline but in your situation I would just purchase whichever Type-F ATF you can get locally to see if it helps your situation.
.
"After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix"
I do not want to get your hopes up to high that you will be able to fix the problem with the suggestions above as more than likely you will need to replace the transmission or at the very least the torque converter. Those are just a few suggestions before throwing in the towel and since more than likely you will need to have the transmission replaced there is no need to put expensive Redline ATF in it for now. I do myself use Redline but in your situation I would just purchase whichever Type-F ATF you can get locally to see if it helps your situation.
.
#7
Instructor
I had a very similar issue with my transmission - but shutting the car off and turning back on didn't fix the problem. (The car had to cool down to get 1 or 2 miles of functionality back.)
If the problem was your torque converter - you'd need to wait for it to cool, also. (and you'd hear/feel the converter slipping.) My transmission was toast and was replaced with a rebuilt unit. Since just turning off the car fixes your problem temporarily - maybe it's just an electrical issue? The dealer is your best bet with this one for diagnosis - but probably bring it elseware for repair.
If the problem was your torque converter - you'd need to wait for it to cool, also. (and you'd hear/feel the converter slipping.) My transmission was toast and was replaced with a rebuilt unit. Since just turning off the car fixes your problem temporarily - maybe it's just an electrical issue? The dealer is your best bet with this one for diagnosis - but probably bring it elseware for repair.
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#8
I will suggest one more filter/screen to check to see if it is blocked with debris. I am using a few pictures I found on the internet and then marked them up to help show the location.
On the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C it uses a gasket that has a built in screen which can become clogged with debris. Here is the location and a picture of a gasket screen that is clogged with debris. Since you have already replaced the 4th gear pressure switch you will recognize this location.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687022502/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687022502/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687024140/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687024140/
.
On the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C it uses a gasket that has a built in screen which can become clogged with debris. Here is the location and a picture of a gasket screen that is clogged with debris. Since you have already replaced the 4th gear pressure switch you will recognize this location.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687022502/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687022502/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687024140/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63999753@N04/7687024140/
.
#9
Suzuka Master
Also I would recommend that you remove and replace the pipes under the linear solenoid one at a time. They are different lengths and its easy to get them mixed up.
Also DW-1 is the current fluid, not Z-1.
Also DW-1 is the current fluid, not Z-1.
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well all the screens were perfectly clean, took the transmission filter out as well and it had a brownish hue but no chunks of metal, would definetly replace if I wasn't going to be possibly replacing the tranny.
After checking all these screens I decided to go and get some Valvoline High Mileage and Lucas stop slip (I just did a 2x2). It helped the problem by about 10. I just took it on a 15 mile drive and then when I got to my driveway it did it again, but a huge improvement. I'm sure I'm just delaying the inevitable, but I might do another 2x2 because it is relatively cheap and see if I can squeeze a few thousand more miles out of this transmission.
After checking all these screens I decided to go and get some Valvoline High Mileage and Lucas stop slip (I just did a 2x2). It helped the problem by about 10. I just took it on a 15 mile drive and then when I got to my driveway it did it again, but a huge improvement. I'm sure I'm just delaying the inevitable, but I might do another 2x2 because it is relatively cheap and see if I can squeeze a few thousand more miles out of this transmission.
#13
I have a 2004 Acura TL Auto, always been serviced at an Acura dealer, etc etc. Fluid and filter changed frequently (Every other oil change, drain and fill with Z1). My Fiance driving home today had it come out of gear (not really a pop) and she called me. She pulled over and put the car in park, then back in gear, same issue, felt like it was not engaging at all.
This is the important part; shutting the car off and back on fixes it, for a few miles/minutes at least. Exactly the same as this thread;
http://www . acura world . com /forums/f72/2004-transmission-problem-please-help-88882/
(Won't let me post the site together sorry)
So this is the exact happenings (When its hot, hasnt had a chance to cool);
-Start it up, shifts perfectly into Reverse, Neutral and Drive, as usual (never had any issues before today)
-After cycling between reverse and drive engaging in gear starts to become delayed, 5 seconds, then 7, then 10, and then after I have cycled back and forth between R and D 20 times it simply does not engage and the car hops a little and you can feel it trying to catch.
-Again, shutting the car off and restarting completely resolves any hesitation or issues, car shifts normally into R, N, D for minutes/miles.
-No lights on yet (Forum mentioned P0741)
After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix, obviously I don't want to drain my pocket, so my question is, has anyone experienced this and dove into a cheaper fix?
I really hate replacing a transmission that shifts absolutely perfectly every time you cycle it. It seems like an engine cycle fixing the issue means electrical, not mechanical...
Maintenance;
-20,000 ago; 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
-10,000 ago; Neutral safety switch
-Every 5-10k Z1 drain and fill (Done again about 1000 ago)
-10,000 ago; Transmission filter
Thank you for any help, let me know if you need any other info.
-Adrian
This is the important part; shutting the car off and back on fixes it, for a few miles/minutes at least. Exactly the same as this thread;
http://www . acura world . com /forums/f72/2004-transmission-problem-please-help-88882/
(Won't let me post the site together sorry)
So this is the exact happenings (When its hot, hasnt had a chance to cool);
-Start it up, shifts perfectly into Reverse, Neutral and Drive, as usual (never had any issues before today)
-After cycling between reverse and drive engaging in gear starts to become delayed, 5 seconds, then 7, then 10, and then after I have cycled back and forth between R and D 20 times it simply does not engage and the car hops a little and you can feel it trying to catch.
-Again, shutting the car off and restarting completely resolves any hesitation or issues, car shifts normally into R, N, D for minutes/miles.
-No lights on yet (Forum mentioned P0741)
After reading through 20 forums I've seen a general idea that just replacing the transmission is the fix, obviously I don't want to drain my pocket, so my question is, has anyone experienced this and dove into a cheaper fix?
I really hate replacing a transmission that shifts absolutely perfectly every time you cycle it. It seems like an engine cycle fixing the issue means electrical, not mechanical...
Maintenance;
-20,000 ago; 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
-10,000 ago; Neutral safety switch
-Every 5-10k Z1 drain and fill (Done again about 1000 ago)
-10,000 ago; Transmission filter
Thank you for any help, let me know if you need any other info.
-Adrian
#15
Honda builds amazing autos...they had only a couple of years with severe tranny issues. I have two of them, 03' and 04'. my 03' failed at 187k. It was due to a recall, but my car was over mileage and over 10 years. Acura installed a brand new factory Transmission... I know opinions differ so I can only speak for myself, but I have never heard of any other Mfg stepping up like that.
I'm telling anyone who will listen. You will LOVE your Acura.
I'm telling anyone who will listen. You will LOVE your Acura.
#16
OP, what ended up happening with you transmission? Did you have to replace it. I have an 04 with a similar issue. !st gear would engage on me. It happened to me 2 times. 3 months apart. i re-start the car, then everything works again. see my post, https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/2004-tl-auto-wont-engage-1st-gear-878983/
#17
OP, what ended up happening with you transmission? Did you have to replace it. I have an 04 with a similar issue. !st gear would engage on me. It happened to me 2 times. 3 months apart. i re-start the car, then everything works again. see my post, https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878983
#18
I work in the automotive field...and work on ALL types of cars, without a doubt Acura/Honda products are the best! They did have their transmission issues, but I would still take an Acura/Honda product over ANY other automobile manufacturer!
Honda builds amazing autos...they had only a couple of years with severe tranny issues. I have two of them, 03' and 04'. my 03' failed at 187k. It was due to a recall, but my car was over mileage and over 10 years. Acura installed a brand new factory Transmission... I know opinions differ so I can only speak for myself, but I have never heard of any other Mfg stepping up like that.
I'm telling anyone who will listen. You will LOVE your Acura.
I'm telling anyone who will listen. You will LOVE your Acura.
#20
Mine did the same and ended up being something called the sprag. See the following: http://www.atra.com/bulletins/2009/oct/atb1287.pdf.
#21
Burning Brakes
I went to do this today on my Accord V6. I was able to take off solenoid C, it was completely clean. Then I took the battery and intake off to get to solenoid A and B, but the solenoid would not come off! I took a piece of wood and used a mallet to tap it lightly, still wouldn't come off. Fearing that the solenoid is going to come off tearing the gasket apart, I just installed everything back. If my solenoid C is clean then I think A and B are pretty good.
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