04 Auto Shaking under Acceleration (80k miles)
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04 Auto Shaking under Acceleration (80k miles)
I have read the other posts about shuttering under acceleration and haven't found an answer or exact fit...i hope someone can help. The car was recently at the dealer for their "Free" Inspection---they couldn't diagnose the problem---they needed $100 to troubleshoot it. (they did say my tranny which has about 38k miles on it was fine. I was pissed because the car was there for almost two friggin hours and I got no where.
The car shakes under acceleration, mostly between 30-60 mph, and it is more pronounced when turning and acclerating. I spoke to a client today (tranny guy) and he said it sounded like a drive axle issue and also mentioned some kind of boot and a mount near the drivers feet. Does this ring a bell with anyone????
The rotors and pads were done recently (by me--took my time, used torque wrench, etc). However the front tires were also changed and aligned recently. Anyone have any ideas, this problem is truely driving me crazy.
The car shakes under acceleration, mostly between 30-60 mph, and it is more pronounced when turning and acclerating. I spoke to a client today (tranny guy) and he said it sounded like a drive axle issue and also mentioned some kind of boot and a mount near the drivers feet. Does this ring a bell with anyone????
The rotors and pads were done recently (by me--took my time, used torque wrench, etc). However the front tires were also changed and aligned recently. Anyone have any ideas, this problem is truely driving me crazy.
#2
free inspections are visual in nature
Diagnosis take a skilled techs time and tools to figure out whats wrong
Stutter can be injecters dirty or a CV axle bad- that the thing by your feet
Diagnosis take a skilled techs time and tools to figure out whats wrong
Stutter can be injecters dirty or a CV axle bad- that the thing by your feet
#3
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I would check out your half-shafts, a member here had to replace his due to the same problem.
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
free inspections are visual in nature
Diagnosis take a skilled techs time and tools to figure out whats wrong
Stutter can be injecters dirty or a CV axle bad- that the thing by your feet
Diagnosis take a skilled techs time and tools to figure out whats wrong
Stutter can be injecters dirty or a CV axle bad- that the thing by your feet
I didn't know that free inspections were only visual in nature---otherwise I wouldn't have brought it in. The main reason for my visit was the shaking and I was told they could figure it out with the free inspection. The engine itself is smooth so I don't think it is the injectors---I'll do some more searches for the CV Axle.
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Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
Do you have rims? If so, the hub ring may be missing, cracked. That can cause it to shake like your saying.
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I couldn't edit the above message----after doing a quick search here is a revised post:
I have the good ole' factory rims, so they don't have a hub ring, right? Do you think it could be the bearings though? I did have new tires put on recently---I told them to tighten the lug nutz to 80lbs. They insisted 95lbs was the "correct" torque.
I have the good ole' factory rims, so they don't have a hub ring, right? Do you think it could be the bearings though? I did have new tires put on recently---I told them to tighten the lug nutz to 80lbs. They insisted 95lbs was the "correct" torque.
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#8
80 foot pounds
too tight of lugs is bad for the rotors and axle hub- most places dont even get all the lugs the same torque~
thats why there is a spec
Get your own torque wrench- or drop by a competing tire store and isk if they would reset them for you- then go tell the first place to prove what book says 95
too tight of lugs is bad for the rotors and axle hub- most places dont even get all the lugs the same torque~
thats why there is a spec
Get your own torque wrench- or drop by a competing tire store and isk if they would reset them for you- then go tell the first place to prove what book says 95
#9
swap the tires front to rear and see if that changes the shake
test the cv by opening the windows- now from a full parked stop, turn the wheel all the way left and start to roll very slowly forward -
click click click- that a bad sign- now try the other direction- nothing? good
It needs a cv axle assembly- complete- try napa auto parts
test the cv by opening the windows- now from a full parked stop, turn the wheel all the way left and start to roll very slowly forward -
click click click- that a bad sign- now try the other direction- nothing? good
It needs a cv axle assembly- complete- try napa auto parts
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
swap the tires front to rear and see if that changes the shake
test the cv by opening the windows- now from a full parked stop, turn the wheel all the way left and start to roll very slowly forward -
click click click- that a bad sign- now try the other direction- nothing? good
It needs a cv axle assembly- complete- try napa auto parts
test the cv by opening the windows- now from a full parked stop, turn the wheel all the way left and start to roll very slowly forward -
click click click- that a bad sign- now try the other direction- nothing? good
It needs a cv axle assembly- complete- try napa auto parts
I picked up a torque wrench at walmart, great tool. When I did the brakes 6 months ago I had trouble getting the lugs off (with a BIG torque wrench), that is how tight they were. I now make sure that they are 80 lbs.
#11
Try not to use the torque wrench to remove lugs and the like- its a FINAL tightening- tension measuring device- not a big wrench !!!
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Try not to use the torque wrench to remove lugs and the like- its a FINAL tightening- tension measuring device- not a big wrench !!!
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Try not to use the torque wrench to remove lugs and the like- its a FINAL tightening- tension measuring device- not a big wrench !!!
I swapped the front and back sheels---didn't help.
I also did the test with the windows down, full to LEFT and full to RIGHT...no clicking when moving forward.
WTF could it be???
#13
axle-trans output bearing- at the trans output would be my guess
could still be the easy to replace axle shaft cv assembly
were the rubber boots broken on any of them- one at each end of the axle shafr to the wheel- if broken boot- grease goes out ands dirt goes in
PM fsttyms1 with the symptoms- he is a great diagnoser
Time for a shop to test it for you and advise- unless you own a mechanics stethascope- car jack- car jack stands- and a trusted friend
could still be the easy to replace axle shaft cv assembly
were the rubber boots broken on any of them- one at each end of the axle shafr to the wheel- if broken boot- grease goes out ands dirt goes in
PM fsttyms1 with the symptoms- he is a great diagnoser
Time for a shop to test it for you and advise- unless you own a mechanics stethascope- car jack- car jack stands- and a trusted friend
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
axle-trans output bearing- at the trans output would be my guess
could still be the easy to replace axle shaft cv assembly
were the rubber boots broken on any of them- one at each end of the axle shafr to the wheel- if broken boot- grease goes out ands dirt goes in
PM fsttyms1 with the symptoms- he is a great diagnoser
Time for a shop to test it for you and advise- unless you own a mechanics stethascope- car jack- car jack stands- and a trusted friend
could still be the easy to replace axle shaft cv assembly
were the rubber boots broken on any of them- one at each end of the axle shafr to the wheel- if broken boot- grease goes out ands dirt goes in
PM fsttyms1 with the symptoms- he is a great diagnoser
Time for a shop to test it for you and advise- unless you own a mechanics stethascope- car jack- car jack stands- and a trusted friend
#15
i had shutter vibration on my 04 tl @28k and i also had acceleration noise when i drive the car cold in the morning. Acura got me a new tranny and now everything runs great. no more shutter on acceleration between 2500-3000rpm on 3rd to 4th gear.
hope this helps
hope this helps
#16
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Check your engine mounts and transmission fluid level then check your struts to see if any are blown. I suppose it could be a subframe bushing too perhaps. Also check your wheel bearings but those usually just make noise. Man so many things could be your problem but hard to tell from where I'm at.
D
D
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Originally Posted by don5504
Check your engine mounts and transmission fluid level then check your struts to see if any are blown. I suppose it could be a subframe bushing too perhaps. Also check your wheel bearings but those usually just make noise. Man so many things could be your problem but hard to tell from where I'm at.
D
D
EZ, how many miles you got on your TL now?
D, how would I check out my struts?
I brought my car into the shop that did the emissions---they had thought it was the drive axle(s). Left it there for a couple hours and they came back and said "You gotta replace the front tires and get an alignment before we can tell if anything is wrong". I tried to explain that I did that before and recently rotated tires (per another acurazine's members reccomendation) but who was I to argue. They did say the axles looked fine.
I went and got a new set of front tires and an alignment (I know, I know---you should replace all 4 tires at once---I was short on cash last Feb and pissed about a flat that couldnt be fixed so I got just two and blew $400 instead of $800) .
Turns out Town Fair didn't do the "free" alignment when I got the two tires in Feb. I drive the car home----WOW was smooth with no vibration. **NOTE** Didn't go on highway that day.
While the problem was better, noticeably better---there is a STRONG vibration in the front end at around 60MPH with a little pressure/acceleration on the tranny. While I am happy that there is really not much vibe from 30-59mph, there is definetly something up. I am praying it is not the trans output bearing which seemed like it would be $$$ to replace.
#18
i have 35k right now. one thing i notice after new tranny is that my car vibrates badly when it's idle with AC on. I can't have lose changes in the cup holder because they make lots of noise. i brought it back and Acura naturalized all motor mounts, but Vibration didn't go away. i didn't want to push it too much because i did couple mods to the car; they could easily say i have void the warranty.
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