Nevermind. Found some interesting info.

First, the '07-'08 TLs use a softer compliance bushing for ride comfort. This is published in many magazines. I checked part numbers and the TL-S uses the same part number as the later TLs. The '04-'06 uses a different part number and it's slightly more expensive.

Anyone with an '07-'08 base and TL-S wanting a small upgrade may want to get the '04-'06 compliance bushing.

 

It uses a slightly different mould design for the bushing, but they have also been proven to crack in under 20k miles. Tripnbeats made me a set of 75a poly's which I received in april, but I still have not had them installed. I will soon though.

It's quite sad how bad of a design issue this is. A friend of mine who works at a local garage explained to me how he see's tons of accords and civics with completely torn bushings getting them replaced all the time.

 

any idea on how much it costs for new bushings?

 

I forget what price I paid at the dealer, but I believe the parts cost was $30 - 35 for the pair.

The biggest hassle (or price) is the labor if you dont know someone with the a press of course to pop the old ones out and the new ones in. Plus youll need an alignment afterwards.

 

Looks like this issue is not just TL related.

My TSX has the same issue, miles 43K year 2006.

 

is your car highway driven?

 

What kind os noises are u guys getting im getting like a crackling noise is this from that bushing?

 

I just received my new bushings from Acura. I am going to put them in myself. If i can hammer out the old ball joints in my upper control arms with a hammer, to install camber kits. This shouldnt be too bad. I will post pictures and give a step by step of how it goes. Just waiting for my Koni Yellows to come in to get started. Kill all birds with one stone.

Hopefully this will fix the infamous vibration that we all get at 63-78 mph, with stock or aftermarket wheels.

I also noticed on the new bushing that there is a positoning arrow to make sure it is pointing/installed in the right direction. Maybe that is what is causing them to tear. Pretty big mistake or simply a bad design on Hondas part??

BTW here is an AWESOME link if you need any replacement parts. This is where I ordered the bushings. They have exploded views of all the sections of the car. Very nice site!!

At the top of the page just enter in your Y,M,& M and it will take you to the right section.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

Should have some feedback for you all by next weekend on how it went.

 

^^^^Update????

 

yes plzz update ... i wanna know if this is my problem im desperate to fix this damn vibration i am having

 

i agree with trip n beats... i just had mine replaced last week and the car feels much more solid when turning or hitting bumps at high speeds. steering feels more precise.

 

They replaced mine. Just the bushes.

 

have someone did 3M window weld mod? I have 07 TL-S and i have small cracks, i wonder if that going to work for me? The last thing i want to do is to chage, control arms or bushings.

 

Even if you put a stiffer compound in there it would crack more easier. This bushing goes up down left right so its prone to break down. If you had a joint similar to a ball and socket setup it would be better but the cost would be extreme.

 

i have different understanding, like i understand it will take stress away from the points where it is craking. There will be more rubber to absorb energy. Since oem replacement dont last long.

 

not sure if these bushings are better, but I found Moog control arm bushings for about 20 at advance auto parts

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1182109589___

How hard is it to get the control arm off? I am hoping this will get rid of the vibration problem I'm experiencing when accelerating off the line. The car vibrates a bit but once I get up to speed, it's smooth.

 

The control arm is really easy to get off. The hardest part is pulling off the lower ball joint. DO NOT USE a pickle fork you will rip that bushing up and you will need a new LBJ. I used a separator from harbor freight and it worked...Other than that its just a couple bolts here and there and it slides out. Just make sure you put them in the same way you take it out.

 

Thanks Nail! How much did that separator cost, if you don't mind me asking? Hrm, I wonder if Autozone would have that separator tool available as a loaner tool..lol

 

Well i borrowed my friends kit but he got a whole balljoint kit at harbor freight for like 75 bucks if not cheaper...Its not the greatest tool but it works for what you pay for.

 

Are you talking about a pittman puller? I bought one from HF and it worked very well. I used it to replace the struts on a civic, needed to push the boot up a bit to slip it through but it worked well. They're less than $20 if I remember correctly.

 

I wish I would've known about those before I did mine. I'm curious to see if they're any stiffer/better.

 

Yes a pitman puller. I used something along these lines:

 

Nice.. Harbor Freight is awesome.. I know it's mostly cheap Chinese tools but I haven't had a tool failure yet with anything I bought there.

 

Hrm, now I gotta find a shop that can press the bushings in for me haha.

My car feels quite wobbly during those left turns across intersections. =/

 

AHH! Just took my 05 in with 81k for trans flush/oil/cabin filters, they came back and told me both bushings are cracked. $585 to replace. Also said i need a brake fluid flush $150! Called one private shop and got me at $485 for bushings and brake fluid. Do i bother trying to get a good will fix on the bushings? Was thinking about doing some research and using this thread as evidence of massive failure on these cars.

 

one more time, anyone did 3m window weld mod? need some feedback, i plan to do mine on next weekend.

 

I don't know if it is smart to fill all the gaps with 3M window weld or any other urethane filler. These bushings are designed to move in 3 axis and if the gaps are filled, their motion is severely limited. I really want someone/company to produce higher durometer bushings in the exact same shape (for daily drivers) or spherical bearings protected with boots (for performance duty) to replace these weak bushings.

 

I don't know if it is smart to wait till my bushings going to be torn completely. Half year ago i sold my 2002 Acura RL (best car i ever had) to my friend and it still have original bushings, no rips or cracks with 170k. Still runs like swiss clock. 3M weld should stop cracking and like you said, reduce their motion. I supose by doing that, ride might be little bit more bouncy.

 

I had both of mine replaced and it definately feels better. Much more stable on the highway over uneven pavement.

I did not know of the urethane filler but this sounds like a great idea. Definately going to give this a shot.

And to those of you replacing yours, go with the '04-'06 bushing if you want something a little firmer. Even the Type-S used a softer bushing.

 

IHC, did you replace the LCA yourself?

 

3m might hold up to a certain degree. I wouldnt use it just my opinion. I know old honda people used to use it for cheap engine mounts. But thats only mainly back and forth motion not so much the LCA bushing.

 

I did one of them myself a couple years ago. This last time I got both done for free by the bodyshop that screwed me. It wasn't bad at all. Very straight forward removing the LCA and just a simple mechanical press was all it took for removal and installation.

 

So had my car up on jack stands as i replaced the 3rd and 4th pressure switches and happened to see my front bushing wasnt torn but looked like it had popped out of here it seats in the control arm.. wth? I didnt take a pic tho i shouldve. Maybe when i get home tonight i will jack it up and check both sides and snap pics. Has anyone heard of them coming out of their pressed in locations?

 

Pass Side w/tear:





Drivers Side, not sure wth is going on there:

 

Your compliance bushings are toast..

 

anybody have experience with these? I need some.

 

mine are junk. i have been driving on them for probably 50k miles with cracks in them. will replace them shortly.

does anyone with these cracks have wear on the inside of the tires. This will be the second set of pirellis that were destroyed due to alignment issues. I cant keep tires on this car. we went through two sets of bridgestone el42's before they finally figures out the alignment/bumpstop issue for the rear and now the front's are eating the inside of the tire alive for some reason. hoping it's this bushing. if not it has to be improper alignment. just don't understand how it happens on two sets of tires in exactly the same way.

 

Yep. I ordered these for store pickup at my local Advanced Auto Parts. This is NOT the correct part. Moog, nor any other brand makes a replacement bushing at this time. I spent an hour going through their parts books/online system with the store clerk. This parts number listed in the link above is the bushing at the rear of the control arm that is of a totally different design (1.5'' diameter).

fail

 

I've got a buddy that worked in R&D Marysville when this car was being developed. The stories he has are crazy in regards to management and how things were designed. If a part that was designed didn't fit on the car they would "make it work". I understand that R&D works this way but some of those designs made there way onto the car for good. Lord knows what happened in the Transmission department for goodness sakes.

I read through this thread a couple times and didn't really see a list of what needs to be replaced when doing this bushing, i.e. hardware.

Could someone list what parts should be replaced when doing the bushing?

 

This is the part I ordered: 51394-SEP-A11

It's the TL-S compliance bushing. I'm hoping the bushings arrive by this Sat. so I get an attempt at installing them.