ljwobker

After trying to find good data on the life expectancy of the brakes on my '04 TL (MT), I figured I'd just start a thread and let people dump whatever info they have into it.

For THIS thread, please respond ONLY if you drive a 3rd gen MANUAL transmission TL. I'll open another thread for automatics. (For those asking why: the brakes on the AT vs MT are different parts, and the braking characteristics of manual vs automatic transmissions are quite different)

So... if you have a manual, and feel like helping, please reply with whatever of the following info you have:

1) How often do you replace your brake pads (in mileage)
2) How often do you replace the rotors?
3) Do you use the standard/OEM pads/rotors?
4) Your driving/braking style? (i.e. aggressive, normal, etc)

Thanks.

ljwobker

My own data:

2004 MT TL
First set of pads lasted just under 50k miles.
Had rotors turned when pads were replaced.
All OEM parts.
braking style is fairly easygoing. I engine brake most of the time and am careful about coasting up to red lights rather than racing up to them and stomping on the brakes. More highway driving than city for me.

jayare627

2004 MT
Front Pad and Rotors at 55,000 replaced with all original Brembos.
Rear Pads and Rotors replaced at 62,000 miles, NAPA rotors and pads.
Driving style--aggresive/normal.

As a side note, rear brakes were completely TRASHED. Calipers were seized, rotors had the biggest groves I had ever seen on them, and all rusted on the inside ones.

ngg19

just replaced front brembos at 30k; dealer said 3 mm left; they also resurfaced rotors.
driving style is fairly agressive.
rear pads have 7mm left

FREDDY123

I am replacing the front pads after 17000 miles due th embarassing squeaking. Iam replacing with hawk pads. I am attepting to remove the caliper I have a 10mm hex and cannot get thebolts lose. Any suggestions?

94eg!

If your car is an 04-06 and the squealing is so frequent that it will definitely show up during a dealer test-drive, just bring the car in along with a copy of TSB 04-019. I did that at 22k miles and they cut the rotors, installed the redesigned 07 TL-S pads, used the special copper colored brembo grease, and even gave me a loaner to get to work & back (I think you have to ask for the loaner). My 6MT has been nice & quiet ever since and it didn't cost me a dime...

Just go in and schedule an appointment ahead of time...

94eg!

To get those bolts loose, simply slip a pipe (I use my jack handle) over the handle of your ratchet to lay down some serious torque. That has yet to fail me on any bolt except an old CRX crank pulley (nothing would hold the crank steady against the massive torque)...

6spMike

Something that has always worked for me in the past for crank bolts, but use at your own risk:
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.

ARX-01b

iTrader: (1)

... or buy a crank socket from Amazon for $25 and you won't have to fool around with the spark plug trick

94eg!

That's about the worst thing for your rod & main bearings that you could do. I don't think you should put that idea in anyones head... :|

thegrinch911

136000 miles on my TL

Replaced All brakes and rotors at 133000

Replaced all pads and only rear rotors at around 70000.

Could not believe front rotors lasted to 133000. Replaced with OEM rotors and aftermarket pads.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the 12 year thread bump.