[MANUAL ONLY] brake lifespan data collection
#1
10th Gear
Thread Starter
[MANUAL ONLY] brake lifespan data collection
After trying to find good data on the life expectancy of the brakes on my '04 TL (MT), I figured I'd just start a thread and let people dump whatever info they have into it.
For THIS thread, please respond ONLY if you drive a 3rd gen MANUAL transmission TL. I'll open another thread for automatics. (For those asking why: the brakes on the AT vs MT are different parts, and the braking characteristics of manual vs automatic transmissions are quite different)
So... if you have a manual, and feel like helping, please reply with whatever of the following info you have:
1) How often do you replace your brake pads (in mileage)
2) How often do you replace the rotors?
3) Do you use the standard/OEM pads/rotors?
4) Your driving/braking style? (i.e. aggressive, normal, etc)
Thanks.
For THIS thread, please respond ONLY if you drive a 3rd gen MANUAL transmission TL. I'll open another thread for automatics. (For those asking why: the brakes on the AT vs MT are different parts, and the braking characteristics of manual vs automatic transmissions are quite different)
So... if you have a manual, and feel like helping, please reply with whatever of the following info you have:
1) How often do you replace your brake pads (in mileage)
2) How often do you replace the rotors?
3) Do you use the standard/OEM pads/rotors?
4) Your driving/braking style? (i.e. aggressive, normal, etc)
Thanks.
#2
10th Gear
Thread Starter
My own data:
2004 MT TL
First set of pads lasted just under 50k miles.
Had rotors turned when pads were replaced.
All OEM parts.
braking style is fairly easygoing. I engine brake most of the time and am careful about coasting up to red lights rather than racing up to them and stomping on the brakes. More highway driving than city for me.
2004 MT TL
First set of pads lasted just under 50k miles.
Had rotors turned when pads were replaced.
All OEM parts.
braking style is fairly easygoing. I engine brake most of the time and am careful about coasting up to red lights rather than racing up to them and stomping on the brakes. More highway driving than city for me.
#3
Instructor
2004 MT
Front Pad and Rotors at 55,000 replaced with all original Brembos.
Rear Pads and Rotors replaced at 62,000 miles, NAPA rotors and pads.
Driving style--aggresive/normal.
As a side note, rear brakes were completely TRASHED. Calipers were seized, rotors had the biggest groves I had ever seen on them, and all rusted on the inside ones.
Front Pad and Rotors at 55,000 replaced with all original Brembos.
Rear Pads and Rotors replaced at 62,000 miles, NAPA rotors and pads.
Driving style--aggresive/normal.
As a side note, rear brakes were completely TRASHED. Calipers were seized, rotors had the biggest groves I had ever seen on them, and all rusted on the inside ones.
#5
I am replacing the front pads after 17000 miles due th embarassing squeaking. Iam replacing with hawk pads. I am attepting to remove the caliper I have a 10mm hex and cannot get thebolts lose. Any suggestions?
#6
Originally Posted by FREDDY123
I am replacing the front pads after 17000 miles due th embarassing squeaking. Iam replacing with hawk pads. I am attepting to remove the caliper I have a 10mm hex and cannot get thebolts lose. Any suggestions?
Just go in and schedule an appointment ahead of time...
#7
Originally Posted by FREDDY123
I am attepting to remove the caliper I have a 10mm hex and cannot get thebolts lose. Any suggestions?
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#8
Mike's Silver Bullet
Originally Posted by 94eg!
To get those bolts loose, simply slip a pipe (I use my jack handle) over the handle of your ratchet to lay down some serious torque. That has yet to fail me on any bolt except an old CRX crank pulley (nothing would hold the crank steady against the massive torque)...
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.
#9
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Originally Posted by sandynmike
Something that has always worked for me in the past for crank bolts, but use at your own risk:
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.
#10
Originally Posted by sandynmike
Something that has always worked for me in the past for crank bolts, but use at your own risk:
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.
Take out the #1 spark plug, turn the crank so it's about 45 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke. Thread a length of rope into the spark plug hole. The rope will hold the piston from completing the stroke, allowing you to take off the bolt. Use about 45 degrees before TDC to torque it back.
WARNING: Make sure you are on the compression stroke for this, or you will bend a valve.
My 6mt has 21K on the original brakes and tires, no squeaks.
My style is normal to mellow.
#11
136000 miles on my TL
Replaced All brakes and rotors at 133000
Replaced all pads and only rear rotors at around 70000.
Could not believe front rotors lasted to 133000. Replaced with OEM rotors and aftermarket pads.
Replaced All brakes and rotors at 133000
Replaced all pads and only rear rotors at around 70000.
Could not believe front rotors lasted to 133000. Replaced with OEM rotors and aftermarket pads.
#12
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Thanks for the 12 year thread bump.
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