mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Thats true, I'm just going to stick it on the PCV side. I don't have a turbo or SC so I figure I probably don't have that much blow-by on the breather side.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ what you can do is, put a check valve in there to stop blow by and a filter at the end of the hose

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Steven, thats no way to get your post count up

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

^^^^ lol.......

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Haha..

So I got a response from KMS regarding porting my intake manifold. They said that the runners inside of the 3.7 IM are too thin to do any real porting, so my idea of gasket matching the runners all of the way through them until the factory diameter started to open up isn't really feasible.

Said I could do a simple gasket match on the outlet of the intake manifold into the lower runners, but the last one they had to work with they just left alone.

I think thats what I'm going to go with, I'm not going to mess with it at all and just install it as-is once I get it back.

I suppose with my breather side on my PCV setup I may buy another OCC from Saikou michi, with 1/2" fittings on it. I'll probably just leave it alone and plumb it into the 4" intake.

My thoughts are since that is the inlet, and the hose runs down from the air intake to the valve cover gravity alone should help prevent blow-by from coming into my air intake. Besides that, the end with the PCV valve is under vacuum, the other end is not so its not like its sucking anything out of my engine and I doubt I have that much blow-by on that end since I don't have FI.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ brother stay away from KMS (the shop in/around Atlanta, GA).......

they dont do good work....a member on here Gerzand (Andy) who has the fastest TL, sent them his heads for some porting work and they send back with all messed up numbers....they mentioned they had taken off 0.006 off the heads and the heads flow at some 330cfm, but when the head was put on a flow bench at KING's it was flowing barely better than stock and they had only polished and not ported the heads....

I would stay away from them....

about the breather side, you dont need a catch can....just put a check valve in there so blow back wont go in your intake, it will be stopped at the valve....

but when it acts like a breather, it will pull in fresh air and all the contaminants will go from the rear head to the front head to your oil catch can

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

lol, I thought King Motorsports = KMS, anyhow King Motorsports are the ones I contacted. I figured they had experience since ILC had his heads done there and they seemed really thorough from his posts.

I'll look into a suitable check valve, that was my idea with the catch can just wasn't really too concerned with the breather side.

I finally got an estimate for the installation of the RJ kit and quite a bit of extra work. That's what I get for letting some adolescent kid play with my front fenders haha... so they're getting fixed. Damage isn't that easy to notice but to me I can tell. Roof is being re-done NBP, roof spoiler done NBP (looks like it actually came CBP), C-MOD grill is being re-done NBP and the front trim piece on my CF hood is being cleaned up and painted NBP so it added up to be quite a bit. It's almost $1k in cost for just the materials in paint.

It'll be in the shop for a few weeks as well, little over 2 before I get it back. Not going in until November though.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Got my OCC in today and painted the little tabs that'll be holding the license plate on the front of my RJ kit. I really should've dropped them off at the powder coater and just had them done matte black with the rest of the stuff, probably would've been really cheap. Oh well, bit late now since he already started and I still had some gloss black duplicolor enamel from when I did my C-MOD grille originally .. had to pick up self-etching primer and some cheap CC though.

Now I just need to make a bracket to mount that OCC in the passenger fender.

Finally got my 5k 9005 LED DRL/Fog bulbs in, they were backordered forever at VLEDs.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Got my stuff back from powder coat

It'll be a little while until I install it, car goes in for paint next week and I need to prep the roof, remove the A-SPEC kit from the front and sides and fit my airaid 4" intake this weekend so I don't have to remove the bumper again once its back.

I also decided I'm going to send the TB in to maxbore to have the bore and shaft machined and to pick up a matching gasket for it.

Here are some pics I still need to put the butterflies back in, finish cleaning some rough edges around the seals and a little bit of powder coat that made it onto some of the threads.

The paint match is practically perfect, I don't think I could've found a better matching paint for the throttle body to the matte black powder coat on the valve covers & top plate.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Wow, I like it!

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Thanks


I fit my Airaid 4" intake last night and put the 9" AEM dryflow filter on. I was able to fit the 9" filter inside of the fender well, definitely wouldn't be able to do this if you had the lower fogs on the car it's a pretty tight fit.

With the bumper on, it almost hits the lower vents in the bumper.



I had to trim the ground that shields the ballast back too. I have the 07-08 modded headlights in the car for reference with already trimmed back 04-06 ground shields on the ballasts.



Here's how I mounted it, using two of the silicone intakes pump brackets with a T-Bolt clamp.



Here I used some smallparts nylon spacers and epoxied them onto the UBI tubing using West Systems G-Flex epoxy that I added a little bit of black epoxy die to. I threaded the IAT bung using a M12x1.5 tap and opened up the end of the nylon spacer a bit in order for it to sit flush and seal against the factory gasket on the IAT sensor.



I did the same thing for the PCV breather side, but this one is completely epoxied on though I did tap the UBI tubing using a NPT pipe thread tap.



Here's how it looks inside the tube. The goal was to eliminate turbulence from the threads sticking down into the UBI tubing and create a good seal. Sort of splitting hairs, but I figured I'd put the time into it since I had the epoxy and die sitting around already from some other projects.



And here's how it looks. I only used one bend, the 45 degree bend. I just ordered a 4" hump hose connector to sort out the bend that I had to create using two 4" silicone joints better, this is temporary until I have the paint done on the car and install the new intake manifold & throttle body.



Here's how my 1/2" nipple fits. Gravity should help keep any blowby out of my intake since the hose runs down and then to the valve covers, no check valve in the hose yet.






At the connection to the throttle body I used a 3.25" to 4" coupler and then trimmed about 1" off of my 3" coupler from the AEM V2 intake and slipped it inside the 3.25" end of the reducing coupler. That way I could fit it to the smaller throttle body until I put in the other new parts.

The intake wouldn't of fit any other way with the 9" filter on it that I could see. I was going to use the bends like rubenders did, but it just wouldn't work with the 9" filter. I probably have enough tubing left over that someone else could build a 4" intake from it.


Mods .. can this thread be retitled "mzilvar's WDP build thread" and moved to the performance parts & mods section.. lol seems more appropriate for what I have in the thread.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Wow man, you've been busy. This looks good.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

This is what I get for removing the vinyl from my roof without using a heat gun...

It was on there for just under a year.





And this is how I got it off... I used almost the entire bottle. If there wasn't as thick of residue left (if I had used a heat gun) it actually would've worked in about 60 seconds.



And here's where I'm at now... after almost 4 hours of spraying, scraping, washing and scrubbing.




The roof is being painted NBP and I didn't want to have to pay the body shop to prep the roof, it's like an hour of labor just to remove all of the trim & sat antenna and then they would've charged at least another hour or two to remove the vinyl, if not more.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Holy crap.....

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

yah, that was a pain, I doubt I'll ever put vinyl on a painted panel again due to the mess it was to clean up.. I just finished getting the edges around the moonroof tonight

Or at least next time I'll use a heat gun, but even professionals that lay vinyl have special tools they use to get the remaining adhesive off of the paint.. I saw one that was a power tool with a urethane wheel that's used to strip it off


Only 2 days to go before it goes in to have the RJ kit fit, painted and installed body shop already has the bumper and side skirts to start prepping them .. then like 2 weeks before I get it back

Marvin4o9

ffffffffffffffff dude really wish I didnt check back to this thread just yet, now I just want to see the finish product :/

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Dude, you'll love the RonJon kit. I've always admired it-especially the nose and side skirts.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Since my car is in the shop having some painting done, I turned my attention to the only engine bay cover that I still use.

Here I filled the holes that aren't used any longer - due to the C-MOD grille that I have installed, and leveled out the two dips on top of the posts where this clips in. I used West Systems Gflex epoxy dyed black with epoxy dye to do this.



Sanded them to make it flush.



That's the stuff. I bought those big lego blocks just for projects like this, I don't have kids so I'm not stealing kids toys :P



Sizing up the overlay...



More Gflex for the base epoxy, dyed black.



Time to put it on, after waiting about an hour for it to come to a tac. This was the biggest PITA, so many curves, but it laid down nicely and I wrapped the edges. My thumb got one part near the top right, oh well.



Here's the good stuff, for the top-coat epoxy. Expensive though, between the little bottles of Gflex and these containers of 105/207 thats about $100.



First layer on, time to wait until tomorrow when it cures to trim excess carbon off, do some sanding and prep it for the subsequent layers of epoxy.



That's all for today! :P

Probably have at least another 2 days to put into this before its done. After I'm done with the trimming/sanding/next epoxy coats then more sanding to 600 grit it'll be hit with spraymax 2K clear coat. Should look great when I'm done.

Here we go, trimmed and sanded.



And here's after 4 more coats of epoxy, about 30 minutes inbetween coats.







It's still going to need more sanding before it gets hit with clear coat to level it out.

Going to wait until next weekend to hit it with clear coat so the epoxy has 7 days to cure.

Evened out the epoxy a bit to make my work later easier and took a few more pics

rossv1

Kaiii

iTrader: (1)

that looks sweet man...love the lego blocks too haha. wrapping that bumpy thing does look like a HUGE pain.

where in the 808 you at?

Morrissey25

iTrader: (4)

I can't believe that I have never seen this thread before now.... That CF looks so good keep up the amazing work

cpa4ever

Incredible work!

cpa4ever

Can you do a side profile shot? I think that will look pretty sweet.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Outstanding work!

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

I'm on Oahu, I've been stationed here for almost 7 years now.



I spent several hours sanding today @ 400 grit and finished up @ 600 grit.

This step really brings out any imperfections, which will be mostly hidden after it gets shot with clear coat. I decided I'm going to hit it with the clear coat tomorrow so the 2k epoxy clear coat that I'm using can cure together with the 2k epoxy that was used on the piece. The clear coat has more UV inhibiting properties to protect the 2k epoxy that was used and prevent it from yellowing.

Here's the latest shots, sanded, washed in dish soap and dried.







Nice & smooth



I could spend a lot more time on it and put on more epoxy to fill imperfections, sand again and so forth until it's almost perfect, but I think it'll look good where its at once I put clear coat on it.

Thanks for all the positive comments

I put the clear coat on this afternoon. The spraymax doesn't provide a lot of coverage so I used the entire can, it's only about 50 micrometers thick for half a square meter, so I'd guess it's probably around 100 micrometers or .1mm thick on this piece.

Three coats, one thin two medium, still needs to be buffed in about a month or so and then waxed.

Safety first, the urethane 2k spraymax cc contains ISOs, so I bought some new cartridges for my respirator.



Here it is curing, I put it inside to avoid stuff falling on it but it was sprayed outside. This is the same stuff I used on my emblems which still look like I just painted them, so the gloss is permanent.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

I need to come to Oahu and bring you my engine pieces. And.....I'll just wait in Oahu for them-no rush!

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Haha, the other pieces should be a lot easier than this one, this is the most complicated one with all of the curves. It'd probably take like 3-4 cans of the spraymax @ $20 a can though.

It's just really time consuming to do this, so far it's taken like 4 days due to the cure times on the epoxy and then all of the sanding that has to be done and I still have more work to do on it, but just buffing at this point and then leaving it to cure.

I actually did a little more reading and I should be good to buff the spraymax tomorrow once it's had 24 hours of time to cure, if I wait 7 days it'll be rock solid and much more difficult.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Finished up the CF overlay yesterday and this morning.

Last step was removing orange peel and polishing, so I did more wet-sanding, this time @ 2000 grit followed by 3000 grit and then buffing with meguiar's mirror glaze #7 which is just a polish and is safe for fresh paint/clear coat.

Definitely not perfect, few imperfections here and there but it looks pretty good I think its not bad for my first time doing a CF overlay and I learned a few things.

Most importantly, the first time I did the top-coat epoxy I should've done it in several thin layers instead of just a single layer, that way I would've had all of the CF filled and all the imperfections would've been taken care of after the initial sanding to smooth it out followed by the subsequent layers of epoxy.

Here's the pics, still needs to be waxed but that'll have to wait about a month.












In about another week I should have the car back and then I can put it in.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

You're killing me over here......



All of that looks fantastic-congrats brother.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Tuesday can't come fast enough lol .. I'm supposed to get the car back on Tuesday.

I've got another new toy to install, not much of a change really though. This is to replace my PIE X3 and hopefully eliminate the ground loop I get when I use the audio from the tablet.



I think I'm going to come up with some sort of custom LED lighting to fill the hole where the PIE X3 switch unit is located in the bottom of the arm rest storage area when I install this.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Got the car back.

I'll get some better pictures tomorrow

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Good to see you got it back. Looking forward to more pics.

GKinColo08TL

You are doing some great work. That car is looking so good!

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Some more pictures, the C-MOD grille has a little bit of a fitment problem on the bottom with the RJ bumper. The grille was re-sprayed NBP, the shop also sprayed the front emblem NBP which I was surprised about because I got a limited lifetime warranty on the paint job.

I'm waiting to have the shop fix the overspray they got inside the lower grille mesh on the front. I already have a fix for the C-MOD grill fitment but I still need to re-mount the laser interceptor heads on the front before I do it.

Also still need to mount the new honeycomb mesh on the rear a-spec lip, I have a pile of work left to do and a bunch of parts to sell locally lol









Roof painted, NBP and the rear wing spoiler was also sprayed NBP the ebay shop I had bought it from had it more of a crystal or metallic black paint now it has the blue pearl of NBP.



Shop still needs to fix some overspray and a small spot on the driver's fender where the paint was cracked that they didn't get. I checked the inside fender lips on front today as well and they weren't painted like they should've been so they're going to have to fix that since it was part of the repair order.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Dude.....LOVE IT! Everything looks great.

abrieluno

Looks pretty good

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

good job with the car! looks good, do you have any shot of the cf cover under the hood?

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

I like the roof spoiler black-it would obviously look funny in WDP, but......

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Made a new USB OTG cable, those wires and shielding were a PITA. Nothing shorted together though, I went through about 7 of the micro usb connectors before I got one I was ok with.

It'd really be better to use a break-out-board that is angled 90 degrees, I found one but it's angled the wrong direction for this application. Going to see if I can find the right one, if not I'll try this out.

New block diagram for the way I'll be setting up the tablet too should take care of my ground loop once I take out the PIE X3.

I've already changed out the top arm rest tray for the Type-S one, since it has the slot to route a cable through and my old one was in poor shape.