So, I'm actually pretty happy with this. This is the type-s gauge bezel with the silver rings that I retroed to fit the 04-06 buttons. After that I di-noced it. Anyways, the cutting of the holes was tedious, the mouting of the buttons tedious, the di-noc tedious, but the results are amazing!

Enjoy!

 

That is really nice, now sell it to me!!!!

 

^+1

 

hahahahah too funny.

 

That looks great! Post pics when after you install it!

 

It's already in but it's dark and I wasn't happy with the photos I was getting. More tomorrow.

And no, not selling. Hah.

 

where di d yuo get that carbon fiber from?

 

www.carbonfiberfilm.com

 

Good work!

 

This.

And what is that car in the background?

 

Wrong Scott, for you it's "nice!" get it right!


Op, clean work on the bezel. Let's see some pics of it installed.

 

Nice and clean bro. Going to ohio later today for a week. I wish i didn't have to fly and could just drive my TL over there... what ever happened with that navi?

 

That is a boosted 3rd gen prelude running the stock b20

Yea, we could do a photoshoot. I just put on the supercup kit over the weekend too. And I ended up selling the navi kit.

Pics installed after work. Glad you all like it. I've had the bezel for 15 months and slacked. Feels good to have it done.

 

A quick pic installed as requested...

 

^that looks perfect

 

Damn that's awesome! Great work.

 

Looks nice.

 

Thank you for the inspiration. I know what I'm doing with my left over di-noc now. How do you remove the gauge bezel?

 

that looks great! good work. now it looks like you might have to do some of the other factory faux CF trim pieces to match. IMHO i think it looks better, just dont overdo it with that stuff.

 

Damn man, looks clean!

 

pull the gauge bezel from the bottom part and pull out and up. It's all clips, the good kind. You won't break anything. Good luck!

I do have to say though that if you're not doing the type-s bezel it may be more difficult. Since it has the rings, i can cover where the vinyl ends. With the base bezel I'm not sure if you could stretch it all the way down to make it look right.

Well, I'm doing my grille and the lower gray area on the front aspec lip. I'm also doing my valve plastic cover, and maybe the rest of the covers in the bay (if I have enough). I had considered switching the stock cf stuff (I bought the kits too) to match because I like this better. But I wasn't sure if all the pieces can "come off"...?? I don't want to just overlay. I want to take the pieces off so that I can wrap it around. Is that possible with all the cf stuff? Even the door inserts?

 

[QUOTE=Maharajamd;


Well, I'm doing my grille and the lower gray area on the front aspec lip. I'm also doing my valve plastic cover, and maybe the rest of the covers in the bay (if I have enough). I had considered switching the stock cf stuff (I bought the kits too) to match because I like this better. But I wasn't sure if all the pieces can "come off"...?? I don't want to just overlay. I want to take the pieces off so that I can wrap it around. Is that possible with all the cf stuff? Even the door inserts?[/QUOTE]

dont do the engine cover the di-noc will most certainly come off. theres no way that stuff will stay under the heat. maybe the panels but i doubt the edges will stay.

on the interior parts the center cubys and shift area can be removed, negative on the door pieces or button areas but just like your bezel it can be done, and still look nice.

 

wow many that looks super ass clean!

 

not the actual valve cover, the plastic piece. This stuff is rated at 300*F, that piece doesn't hit that, does it? Lol

I mean I've seen this on Vette engine bays....twin turbo stuff.

Edit: engine enamel clear coated of course...

 

dude i highly doubt its the same stuff, you know how this stuff works. just put a blow dryer up to it. your engine gets way hotter than that. and yeah i know what part youre talking about. it gets plenty hot. i had mine wrapped in real 2x2 twill weave CF.

 

Looks Killer! Question, how did you manage to do the holes so perfect? Did you make a template and what device did you use to cut the holes? I've been wanting to do this for some time as I have that Type-S bezel in my garage but am worried about trashing it the first time around.

 

how much did you pay for the bezel?

 

I took a piece of paper and cut it to cover the left side. Then held it up to a light and marked in the holes. Then I cut the holes out, flipped it, and put it on the right. Then whiteouted the hole. After that it was just sanding slowly with the dremel and holding the piece in until it fit. If I'm unhappy about anything, it's the gaps on the buttons. But the dinoc really helped those holes look more naturally rounded in the corners, even though they weren't.

$40...#5 http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Well done! It really looks terrific.



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yea man, that does look like its straight OEM. great job

 

I agree, the only thing I could see is that the lines of the CF are a bit off from the top part to the bottom. But only someone as anal as me would notice that.

 

^Remember a few things here.

1) The piece does have a big contour...so no matter what the lines will appear to be 'off'.
2) It was NOT easy at all to do that. I started at the top and worked to the middle, then left to right. By the time I got to the lower right corner area, everything was messed up and contorted. I thought I was going to have to pull it all off and get a new piece.

I didn't mention this, but there are two splices in there. Bet you can't figure out where. Heck I can barely see it when I'm looking at it from 5 inches away.

So no it's not perfect. But I'm pretty sure I'm the first to do the dinoc or cf that piece. I also think my gaps byt he buttons are the best I've seen with this yet too.

And you're right about the engine cover. The "cf" itself is rated for very high temp, but the bond isn't. Surface temp shouldn't be more then 150*. However, I think if I used the primer and then clear coated it with high temp clear, I think it may work. I dunno. I'll grab a gun and see how hot that plastic gets after so hard use.

 

man that looks great!!

 

Hey man, Don't worry, I am so familiar with this product because one of my friend is selling 3M di-noc too. He is the boss of one body shop, and he told me that he knew a factory and get 3M di-noc directly from them. The factory said if put this on the hood, it can stay perfectly at least for 2 year. Dry weather area can stay longer....and for roof can up to 3-4 years.
P.S. ONLY If you got the best quality of 3M di-noc. That is what I heard. haha

 

Dude that looks good how much carbon fiber did you get from carbonfiberfilm.com

 

If your gonna do the "valve" cover piece try to sand it down to a smooth finish first. The panels under the hood have a coarse finish to them so that is more of the possibility why it wouldn't stick. Sand it down smooth, clean it with alcohol and maybe surface prime it with some sort of bonding agent them wrap it. I would clear coat it a few times too so dirt won't stay trapped on the film. Plus it would stand out more with a glossy look too.

As for your bezel it looks great. That was next on my list too. So far all I have done was the roof console, the fuse box in hte engine bay, and the inner part of the tail lights when the trunk is opened. oh and the top of the trim on the rear type s lip. jptl04 knows what I'm talking about on that one cause after all he sets the mark for it!!

 

I probably will do the same thing like you. Roof, engine cover, grille, all trim type s lip. I will post some pictures one 2 weeks later.

 

do to silver rings come off of the cluster? might be easier to just take those and put them on the 04 cluster.

 

Not that easy. The tubes on the new ones stick out a little further so it doesn't line up and leaves a gap. You could in theory cut out the tubes with silver rings and do a transplant but that would be tough.

 

Hawt fire!!