My 04 NBP (almost two years old) detailed
#1
My 04 NBP (almost two years old) detailed
I did my 2004 NBP this weekend with my new PC 7424 . I did prepping the car on Friday evening and then polishing on Saturday morning.
The products and tools I used;
- Porter Cable 7424 dual action (random-orbit) polisher (PC)
- Sonus DAS Pads and bonnet
--- Green foam pad to remove minor swirl marks (light cutting pad used with Z-PC) and
--- Blue foam pad for polishing (to apply Z2) and
--- Buffing Bonnet to remove polish
- Zaino product line
--- Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover
--- Z18 Clay Bar,
--- ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
--- Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes
--- Z-6 Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray
--- Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal
--- Z-12 Clear-View Glass Polish
--- Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss
- Dawn dish washer soap, if you are using Z-PC, then dawn wash is not needed and your regular car shampoo can be used.
- 3M masking tape
- Stoner Tarminator
- Never Dull to polish exhaust tips.
Washing Accessories:
- Two 5 gallon buckets; one for wheels and one for paint surface, wheel and tire brushes,
- 100% cotton towels
--- small one for washing
--- small one for buffing in between coats with Z6 and Z8 at the end
--- beach size for drying
--- California WaterBlade
Procedure
Wash, clean, clay and dry
- Rinse and use bug and tar remover (Tarminator) to get rid of bugs, tar and sap.
- Wash with dawn and water and rinse. DO NOT dry car as yet.
- Mix water with Z7 (or any lubricator came with your clay bar system) in a spray bottle and then spray on 6" x 6" area and clay bar to lubricate and move clay bar on it till all the contamination are picked up and the area is as slick as it can be. You will know this when the clay moves smoothly on the surface. Do all the car with this process checking for cleanliness of clay bar in between. If the clay is dirty knead it in a ball and flatten it again to get a clean surface.
- Wash car again with water and dawn. You can use any car washing soap you want which goes with your polishing system.
Note: Dawn is not good for every wash. I've used dawn only three times in two years before I do full detail.
- use waterblade to get most of the water off the car
- Dry with the leaf blower and bloat with cotton towel. It helps with leaf blower to blow water from out of behind mirror, license plates, grill, trunk and doors. Use 100% white cotton towels to dry remaining water left behind. Do not let water evaporate at all since it will leave water marks.
- I store car in garage after this process to dry fully.
Cutting Polish to remove swirls
- move around the car to see for problem areas with minor scratches and swirls
- put a green light cutting (orange if more swirls and oxidation is spotted) pad on the PC backing plate
- apply Z-PC in a circular ring 1" from the outside edge or in star shape up to the edge
- dab on the paint surface at the various spots in 2' X 2' area
- put the PC on the surface and start with 4K RPM
- apply very little or no pressure just to control the PC
- move with a swift motion all over the selected area with 50% overlapping the previous pass do this till you work the product you applied on the pad. Do all the pass back and forth and up and down. This is needed to get rid of swirls. and this motion can only be done with the dual action polisher not with hand.
Polishing
- prepare z2 or z5 with ZFX and shake well for 3 mins then keep aside till you get your pad / PC
- shake polish again and apply Z2 or (Z5 your choice) to pad and apply evenly. I applied one coat with the Blue buffing pad and applied evenly on the paint surface with PC.
- wait 30 mins
- buff with towel or MF bonnet on PC
- spray Z6 and wipe with cotton towel folding in between wipes
- do the polishing process again
I applied one coat with PC and then applied one with hand to get in between tight areas. I will apply another coat tomorrow morning so it will be ready for winter rains.
Tips:
- never let your hose brush on the paint surface
- I rinse my wash towel every time with jet nozzle before I dip it back in soapy water to get any dirt off of it rather the bucket.
- I never rotate my towels while wiping on surface. ONLY back and forth on hood, top, trunk and up and down on sides
- while using WaterBlade keep a beach size dry towel on shoulder and wipe blade on it after every stroke on the paint
- Dry fully before applying any polish wax. I use leaf blower to get the water out of all nooks and crannies and blot with beach size 100% cotton towel and garage it overnight to dry before I start polishing/waxing in the morning.
- while working with electric equipment, make sure that you do not let wire rub or touch on the car surface put it around your hand and shoulder.
- never start the PC unless it's touching fully to the paint surface
- always start with low RPMs till the product is applied evenly to the surface and then increase the speed to work the product in
- only use one product with one pad and put it in Ziploc bag
This is after the Z-PC application to get the perfect swirl free surface to start polishing
And these two are after first coat and Z6 applied.
You can hardly see the clear bra in these two pictures.
Final full view after all the process done and buffed with Z8 and tire gloss applied.
The products and tools I used;
- Porter Cable 7424 dual action (random-orbit) polisher (PC)
- Sonus DAS Pads and bonnet
--- Green foam pad to remove minor swirl marks (light cutting pad used with Z-PC) and
--- Blue foam pad for polishing (to apply Z2) and
--- Buffing Bonnet to remove polish
- Zaino product line
--- Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover
--- Z18 Clay Bar,
--- ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
--- Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes
--- Z-6 Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray
--- Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal
--- Z-12 Clear-View Glass Polish
--- Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss
- Dawn dish washer soap, if you are using Z-PC, then dawn wash is not needed and your regular car shampoo can be used.
- 3M masking tape
- Stoner Tarminator
- Never Dull to polish exhaust tips.
Washing Accessories:
- Two 5 gallon buckets; one for wheels and one for paint surface, wheel and tire brushes,
- 100% cotton towels
--- small one for washing
--- small one for buffing in between coats with Z6 and Z8 at the end
--- beach size for drying
--- California WaterBlade
Procedure
Wash, clean, clay and dry
- Rinse and use bug and tar remover (Tarminator) to get rid of bugs, tar and sap.
- Wash with dawn and water and rinse. DO NOT dry car as yet.
- Mix water with Z7 (or any lubricator came with your clay bar system) in a spray bottle and then spray on 6" x 6" area and clay bar to lubricate and move clay bar on it till all the contamination are picked up and the area is as slick as it can be. You will know this when the clay moves smoothly on the surface. Do all the car with this process checking for cleanliness of clay bar in between. If the clay is dirty knead it in a ball and flatten it again to get a clean surface.
- Wash car again with water and dawn. You can use any car washing soap you want which goes with your polishing system.
Note: Dawn is not good for every wash. I've used dawn only three times in two years before I do full detail.
- use waterblade to get most of the water off the car
- Dry with the leaf blower and bloat with cotton towel. It helps with leaf blower to blow water from out of behind mirror, license plates, grill, trunk and doors. Use 100% white cotton towels to dry remaining water left behind. Do not let water evaporate at all since it will leave water marks.
- I store car in garage after this process to dry fully.
Cutting Polish to remove swirls
- move around the car to see for problem areas with minor scratches and swirls
- put a green light cutting (orange if more swirls and oxidation is spotted) pad on the PC backing plate
- apply Z-PC in a circular ring 1" from the outside edge or in star shape up to the edge
- dab on the paint surface at the various spots in 2' X 2' area
- put the PC on the surface and start with 4K RPM
- apply very little or no pressure just to control the PC
- move with a swift motion all over the selected area with 50% overlapping the previous pass do this till you work the product you applied on the pad. Do all the pass back and forth and up and down. This is needed to get rid of swirls. and this motion can only be done with the dual action polisher not with hand.
Polishing
- prepare z2 or z5 with ZFX and shake well for 3 mins then keep aside till you get your pad / PC
- shake polish again and apply Z2 or (Z5 your choice) to pad and apply evenly. I applied one coat with the Blue buffing pad and applied evenly on the paint surface with PC.
- wait 30 mins
- buff with towel or MF bonnet on PC
- spray Z6 and wipe with cotton towel folding in between wipes
- do the polishing process again
I applied one coat with PC and then applied one with hand to get in between tight areas. I will apply another coat tomorrow morning so it will be ready for winter rains.
Tips:
- never let your hose brush on the paint surface
- I rinse my wash towel every time with jet nozzle before I dip it back in soapy water to get any dirt off of it rather the bucket.
- I never rotate my towels while wiping on surface. ONLY back and forth on hood, top, trunk and up and down on sides
- while using WaterBlade keep a beach size dry towel on shoulder and wipe blade on it after every stroke on the paint
- Dry fully before applying any polish wax. I use leaf blower to get the water out of all nooks and crannies and blot with beach size 100% cotton towel and garage it overnight to dry before I start polishing/waxing in the morning.
- while working with electric equipment, make sure that you do not let wire rub or touch on the car surface put it around your hand and shoulder.
- never start the PC unless it's touching fully to the paint surface
- always start with low RPMs till the product is applied evenly to the surface and then increase the speed to work the product in
- only use one product with one pad and put it in Ziploc bag
This is after the Z-PC application to get the perfect swirl free surface to start polishing
And these two are after first coat and Z6 applied.
You can hardly see the clear bra in these two pictures.
Final full view after all the process done and buffed with Z8 and tire gloss applied.
#5
Damn I need you to fly to VA to do my girls car. hahaha I have a room with your name written all over it. all joking aside.....
That looks sick!!! Damn good job. I know when I detail my car it's a day or 2 of work. I have a Milwaukee Orbital Polisher but that thing is so F'ing heavy. Not to mention I have only used it a couple times.
That looks sick!!! Damn good job. I know when I detail my car it's a day or 2 of work. I have a Milwaukee Orbital Polisher but that thing is so F'ing heavy. Not to mention I have only used it a couple times.
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#11
WOW....you are the Zainomeister supreme!!!!!
Great Job...and some of the best tips I've ever seen regarding the PROPER method to do the full Zaino process. I've been using Zaino on my '04TL for almost 2 years with the same results. My car is Anthracite so it's not as shiny as your NBP. Before the Zaino treatment, the Anthracite only had a moderate shine and didn't look anything special. After the full Zaino treatment, all my friends couldn't believe how good the paint looked. Some even suggested I had the car repainted. It now looks like a show car paint job. The color seems darker and much deeper in the shine, and it doesn't even look like the standard Acura paint. It's THAT good!! One strange thing....the color looks darker than before...everyone noticed the change so that's the reason some of my friends thought I had the car repainted. I swear by Zaino...it's the absolute best if done properly and you know how to do it right. GOOD JOB!!! Thanks for letting everyone know the proper method to do it right.
Great Job...and some of the best tips I've ever seen regarding the PROPER method to do the full Zaino process. I've been using Zaino on my '04TL for almost 2 years with the same results. My car is Anthracite so it's not as shiny as your NBP. Before the Zaino treatment, the Anthracite only had a moderate shine and didn't look anything special. After the full Zaino treatment, all my friends couldn't believe how good the paint looked. Some even suggested I had the car repainted. It now looks like a show car paint job. The color seems darker and much deeper in the shine, and it doesn't even look like the standard Acura paint. It's THAT good!! One strange thing....the color looks darker than before...everyone noticed the change so that's the reason some of my friends thought I had the car repainted. I swear by Zaino...it's the absolute best if done properly and you know how to do it right. GOOD JOB!!! Thanks for letting everyone know the proper method to do it right.
#13
Originally Posted by elenaran
Looks awesome. The only bad thing about NBP is that it has more of a mirror look than a wet look when detailed.
I must disagree....it does look wet immediately after a few coats of Zaino and Z-6 & z-8 (but it only lasts for a few hours)--that sucks..
#19
Originally Posted by warrior15r
Can you post up some pics of your interior to get an idea of what mine may look like in a few years?
This is a driver seat;
Passanger seat;
Back seats;
Dash;
Steering wheel;
#20
[QUOTE=JoganJani]Here are some of the pics. The leather conditioning and dash 303 is due now though. Last application was done two months back.
Dang!
I thought the FUZZY DICE hanging from the rear view Mirrors were only for Lowriders in LA!
Pedals look sharp though.
Dang!
I thought the FUZZY DICE hanging from the rear view Mirrors were only for Lowriders in LA!
Pedals look sharp though.
#21
Originally Posted by 1sweetTL
Dang!
I thought the FUZZY DICE hanging from the rear view Mirrors were only for Lowriders in LA!
Pedals look sharp though.
#24
Originally Posted by mn2trance
Wow! That is one clean car! How long did it take you to do all of that? And I keep forgetting to buy 303 to clean my dash.
This is the schedule and time I follow;
- Wash and detail spray at least every other week (1 hour)
- Condition interior every three months (1 hour)
- Clean and condition interior every six months (1.5 hour)
- Full detail every 8 months (5-6 hours)
- Slap on additional coat every couple of months after wash (1 hour)
- Engine bay detail every year (2 hours)
The only thing I'm missing is underbody wash clean.
#29
Originally Posted by stavebomb
what is this 303 you guys speak of to clean the dash?
That is a cleaner protectant works best with the fading dash problem. You can get it in some auto store or online. Google for "303 Aerospace Protectant".
#30
i picked my 303 at a local ACE hardware. you should just call around first before you do what i did and make it an all day mission to find this stuff. but man, once you get it- it lasts for a LONG time. i have had my car since nov and the fade was pretty bad. i have only had to apply it 2x so far.. dash looks brand new.
#33
Originally Posted by yohan81718
how much did you spend on all of your equipments?? I would like to detail my car once in a while like you did...
VERY NICE!
VERY NICE!
Thanks. May be $300-400 over several years.
#38
Originally Posted by VelfarreClubber
i knew this would come up !
Very nicely done, looks like it should sit in a show room
Very nicely done, looks like it should sit in a show room
LOL! Hey, I have BPs so I want to know why his doesn't!! It's a fair question...lolol
#40
How to avoid Butt prints
No bony asses in my car!
OK jokes aside guys, I just do all the conditioning and stuff religiously but I think I got lucky with padding material. Butt prints disappear after 15-20 mins once the passenger gets down. I can see 'em after immediate use but the print vanishes in 15-20 mins.
OK jokes aside guys, I just do all the conditioning and stuff religiously but I think I got lucky with padding material. Butt prints disappear after 15-20 mins once the passenger gets down. I can see 'em after immediate use but the print vanishes in 15-20 mins.