One question for everyone though. I noticed that when i back out of a parking space or my driveway, as soon as i stop and the engine shifts, there is a "bunk" noise. Then, as soon as I move forward, it does the same thing, but then never does it again until the next time I stop. It will also do it if I start off straight ahead from parked, but it will then only do it once.
Is something getting stuck? I adjusted the damper when the car was on ramps, so the back end was lower. Could the engine have been leaning backwards enough to cause it to be too loose? I also noticed that the top hole of the bracket is larger than the bottom one, so maybe that is shifting/rotating with the engine weight on it...

 

Bump? Can someone chime in? Excelerate?

 

You sure the noise is coming from the damper area? Can you load the engine on a lift to see if you can duplicate the noise?

 

Sounds like the floating caliper sound when it kinda resets when you stop and go in a different direction.

 

Well, this answers that question: It sometimes makes that noise when I start my car now. This means it couldn't be the brakes. No one else has had this problem?

 

Which loctite are you guys using and on which threads exactly?

 

Anybody?

 

I think it was the red one, and it's on the inner threads...I bought one off Justin Boyer on FB used so I didn't have to do anything, I just bolted it up as is so I'm not quite certain. Just going off of memory.

 

I thought it was a blue one. Loctite 242 (blue) seems to fit the bill. Loctite 271 (red) may be a little too heavy for it?

So all threads, including the cap that closes the cylinder? Where the bushings are?

 

I always thought blue = removable. Red = more or less permanent. I'd assume blue as well but someone else can chime in.

 

What material is the bracket made of?

 

It is made with 304 Stainless Steel

 

Has anyone with an AT done this yet and can review with stock motor mounts? My mounts are going out (rear still decent) and intend to replace all 3. I'm at 142K btw. I'm looking at a few options

Stock mounts + ETD (with MT mount arm)
or
Innovative Mounts Front/Side and Stock Rear (maybe ETD??)
or
Innovative Mounts (all 3) which is least considered due to vibration

Unfortunately I haven't ran into a local with aftermarket mounts so I can't see if I can deal with the extra vibration.

Ideally I'd like a performance upgrade, better start off the line with no/reduced wheel hop, and minimal to no vibration. I DD the car (have an S2000 for fun car) and am a spirited driver so like better handling but I have not tracked it.

Any thoughts? Any feedback from an AT owner with the ETD?

 

Definitely need this damper

 

I've had this damper on my 08 TLS 6 speed for 3 years. Still going strong. I used Loctite blue and never had a problem. One of the best things I bought for the car. Very happy

 

^^ Same here, 2 years with it now.

 

I can't even remember when I did this mod. 5 years? 6?

It did make a notable difference although my mounts where on their last legs at the time.

I just remember pulling the stock unit and it being completely and utterly worthless.

 

same here...I think it helps preserve the mounts if you catch it early enough.

 

when i pulled my stock damper out i could compress it in one hand haha.
definitely recommend this xlr8 damper even though it was a PITA to install with some of the bolts being blocked by other items

 

Hey All,

Buda I have a 07 tl type-s 5AT with 210K and I ordered the Innovative Mounts 75A (which I'm only going to do the front and side) also ordered a new stock rear mount and got a Engine Torque Damper (ETD) with the MT bracket so I can preserve my rear mount. And just for shits and gigs I threw in a XLR8 lightweight crank pulley. I CANNOT wait to get this stuff in! The Innovative Mounts (IMs) are the only things I'm waiting on.


Now I'm speaking my own opinion here, but this might be the best set-up for greatest balance between luxury and performance. Since the Innovative Mounts are stiff and cause vibrations, keeping the rear mount sock with the add ETD, and replacing the front and side with the IMs will cut down on these pesky rattles and vibrations.


I'll keep updating on how it goes when everything come in the mail and hopefully going to take some pictures. The only thing I'm worried about it changing that bracket out so I can install the ETD

 

^^ lots of people only run aftermarket front and side and stock rear. To also keep vibrations down, make sure you neutralize your mounts (rock the engine with the mount to engine bolt only hand tight)

 

I didn't really get that last part, I thought about it when I was swapping out my motor mount inserts...but couldn't really understand how a fixed mount would need that (unlike a rotational bushing on the suspension).

 

Preloading the mounts?

 

relaxing the bushings, but for a mount, that bolts up an bolts up and sits on the poly, I don't understand what/how that'll do anything.

 

Sockr1 could you further explain what you mean by neutralizing the mounts?

 

I will say that I've now gotten used to the 75a mounts and don't mind them at all...a little more vibration but less rocking and it's peace of mind knowing the mounts will likely last forever.

 

How long have you had them? And how long before they broke in?

 

They came on the car...so I've had them for almost 2 months. I am guessing they were broken in although I swapped over to the gerzand inserts about a month ago (although there was nothing wrong with the 75A ones that were in there). I still have my base TL with oem mounts and it's noticeable, the difference, but it's not unbearable IMO. Even with the AC on...it's not terrible. Ended up putting some foam roll between the windshield and dash to prevent that weird rattle...let's see how it works out.

 

you torque down the bolts that hold the mount to the frame. you torque down the middle bolt going through the inserts. you hand tight the bolt that connects the mount to the engine on all 3 mounts. for 6mt, you then move the car in reverse a foot or so, then forward a foot or so, and then rev in neutral a few times. it just settles the engine and mounts into position and then you torque all 3 mounts the best you can (some are hard to reach with a torque wrench).

i've installed xlr8 mounts twice (about to be a 3rd time to put in gerzand's new inserts), once without this neutralizing and once with, and there was a major difference in the vibrations. with neutralizing i had much less vibration (still more than oem) and i would highly recommend it, but not a huge deal if you don't

for the AT it's a similar process.

also remember to install the side mount, then do the other mounts, then come back and loosen and retorque the side mount (this was recommended by the OEM manual and gerzand)

 

 

Thanks sockr1 and rockstar143. What's these gerzand inserts, what's different compaired to IM's and where do I get my hands on some if I went that route?

 

gerzand is his member name...he's got a beastly 630HP UA7 and knows our cars inside and out...
he made his own inserts...so I bought a set and threw them on, because I trust him. Contact him to see if he'll be making another batch.

 

I was looking at keeping the stock rear mount and going innovative/exelerate on the rest but Anil (swoosh) had told me that people were getting cracked j-pipes and cats with this setup due to the irregular engine movement that setup caused. Will definitely be looking for your updates.

 

^That makes complete logical sense though...right? Lol

I wouldn't mix and match mounts.

 

Agreed...
I had a cracked rear pcd too...upgraded to hfpc, added the damper and swapped out the innovative mount inserts to a new set of 75A and hoping for the best. ONce you get used to the little buzzing of the motor you feel in your prostate...you kinda look forward to it.

 

The "J Tickler"?












































Get it?

 

I'll get it in about 15 minutes on my drive home from work!
Oh, and I reinstalled the lower rear cat bracket that goes to the engine...

 

Good to get feedback from others having the cracked pc problem. Could going with the ETD and keeping the stock rear mount as dfresh07tls is doing, solve that problem?

I wish someone with a 5AT and stock mounts had done to the ETD. It would be nice to know if it made a difference. I may have to break down and try it.

 

^I think it would make a difference even for the AT. But it likely won't be near as noticeable as it is on the MT.

The ETD is not designed to take the brunt of those forces. It's made to compliment the mounts and give support from a different angle. So if your rear mount is weak all your going to do with the ETD is shorten it's lifespan. IMO.

 

^ good point on lifespan