XLR8 Engine Torque Damper: '04-'08 TL Manual
#161
Just installed mine finally!!!! WOW what a difference it feels great! and I just used the black bushings. I don't feel any excess vibrations or anything! Now I can drive slowly in a parking lot without my car bouncing around!! Shifting from 1-2 is much much better and crisp that was a big issue for me. Also while driving/coasting and taking my foot off the pedal it doesn't "bogg" at all like it did.
The only issue I found was I had to adjust the threads on the damper out much further then I felt was safe. It kind of makes me wonder if the bracket was designed using a TL with a busted front engine mounts. I DO NOT have busted mounts and only have 36K which might explain why the distance required for the damper was so much greater on my car. Anyone else experience this?
The only issue I found was I had to adjust the threads on the damper out much further then I felt was safe. It kind of makes me wonder if the bracket was designed using a TL with a busted front engine mounts. I DO NOT have busted mounts and only have 36K which might explain why the distance required for the damper was so much greater on my car. Anyone else experience this?
Josh, saw you idea about turning the plate over, but this then puts a side load on the damper which it is not made for.
Can I suggest you try having your fabricator press the bolt in the mounting plate after turning the plate over so its lower and also in line with the lower mount. This would result in a much stronger setup. I think you would still have room for adjustment, but you might want to check.
When you make these changes please PM me and send me a new plate. Everything else is reusable. I think it is only a matter of time until the threads pull out of the housing and then ruin a $89 damper.
ML
#162
TYPE-S CBP MT
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Josh any plans on making a new bracket?
I agree with ml3456. If you flip the bracket over, the damper will now be on an angle and i'm not too happy with that option.
I agree with ml3456. If you flip the bracket over, the damper will now be on an angle and i'm not too happy with that option.
#163
Three Wheelin'
uhhhh..
Angle? From flipping the bracket??
I think you guys are missing one critical point.
1) The clevis pin has to be taken out and re-pressed (maybe even spot welded) the other way in the same hole.
-THEN-
2) Flip the bracket.
The entire assembly was designed by a genius , just flipping the bracket over will reduce everything an extra inch or so.
It's a simple solution, although wasn't critical to begin with.. I mean, as long as you have engine mounts...
I think you guys are missing one critical point.
1) The clevis pin has to be taken out and re-pressed (maybe even spot welded) the other way in the same hole.
-THEN-
2) Flip the bracket.
The entire assembly was designed by a genius , just flipping the bracket over will reduce everything an extra inch or so.
It's a simple solution, although wasn't critical to begin with.. I mean, as long as you have engine mounts...
#168
Three Wheelin'
It could never "pull apart" unless your engine mounts are broken..
When your engine mounts are broken, that's when they'll start taking down every other component with them..
I drive amongst the crappiest roads in the US (NYC), and this ETD STILL has not had one issue...
When your engine mounts are broken, that's when they'll start taking down every other component with them..
I drive amongst the crappiest roads in the US (NYC), and this ETD STILL has not had one issue...
#169
The tester has had the ETD on his setup for months and there has been no issues. There's some fear as to what may happen but it doesn't seem likely.
However, on all future shipments we are pressing the clevis pin out and inserting it the opposite way just so there is no question as to what might occur.
However, on all future shipments we are pressing the clevis pin out and inserting it the opposite way just so there is no question as to what might occur.
#177
Three Wheelin'
#180
"ewa bound"
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kinda looks like the cc auto nrg damper kit, which ive had in my car for 3 years now. its for the 2nd, 3rd gen TL and 6th, 7th gen accord, both auto and MT. it also fits in the same spot at the rear of the engine, which is the best place for it. it helps keep the engine from rocking back and pulling up on the front mount.
#182
www.colradodetail.com
#183
I do my own work.
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#184
Intermediate
TL : DR Cliffnotes:
Installed XLR8 Engine Torque Dampener this afternoon (2006 6-speed) and I am very pleased!
I was skeptical at first, and even more so when I got the dampener in the mail as I expected it to be bigger. But was I ever wrong!
This dampener provides an instant solid feeling and firms up the TL. I left the red poly stiff bushings in, and vibration is more than stock, but not bad or uncomfortable. The feel during throttle let-off moments, and shifts is significantly improved.
Install was very easy, I applied loctite to the end link threads per feedback from this thread just to be safe.
My : Worth the $.
- Dampener works great, you won't be disappointed
- Easy to install
- Fitment issues are non-existent with current dampeners (XLR8 ships with reversed mounting bolt w/ cotter pin, provides more than enough length)
- XLR8 customer support and shipping is excellent
Installed XLR8 Engine Torque Dampener this afternoon (2006 6-speed) and I am very pleased!
I was skeptical at first, and even more so when I got the dampener in the mail as I expected it to be bigger. But was I ever wrong!
This dampener provides an instant solid feeling and firms up the TL. I left the red poly stiff bushings in, and vibration is more than stock, but not bad or uncomfortable. The feel during throttle let-off moments, and shifts is significantly improved.
Install was very easy, I applied loctite to the end link threads per feedback from this thread just to be safe.
My : Worth the $.
#186
kinda looks like the cc auto nrg damper kit, which ive had in my car for 3 years now. its for the 2nd, 3rd gen TL and 6th, 7th gen accord, both auto and MT. it also fits in the same spot at the rear of the engine, which is the best place for it. it helps keep the engine from rocking back and pulling up on the front mount.
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BostonSilverTypeS (02-02-2012)
#197
The factory mounts have rubber bushings and fail. The OE mounts are also designed for maximum ride comfort so it allows for a fair amount of engine movement. Our XLR8 mounts are designed for durability and longevity. Our mounts will reduce engine movement (which reduces wheel hop) and last longer. However, they are a performance-oriented mount so they will transfer some vibration to the cabin (which can be lessened but choosing the street bushing).
The damper is NOT needed. If you want the least amount of engine movement you can upgrade the damper too.
The damper is NOT needed. If you want the least amount of engine movement you can upgrade the damper too.
#198
Race Director
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Just so I have everything straight before I throw this on tomorrow...
1) 2012 XLR8 ETDs have been slightly redesigned for any issues that have come up in here, correct? Meaning the length/mount plate issue?
2) It would be in my best interest to locktite everything, correct? By everything I mean anything that is INSIDE the damper? And leave the external bolts and washers alone?
3) Red bushings = stiffer = possible slight cabin vibration. Black bushings = softer = less possible cabin vibrations.
Thanks for the ultra fast shipping man.
1) 2012 XLR8 ETDs have been slightly redesigned for any issues that have come up in here, correct? Meaning the length/mount plate issue?
2) It would be in my best interest to locktite everything, correct? By everything I mean anything that is INSIDE the damper? And leave the external bolts and washers alone?
3) Red bushings = stiffer = possible slight cabin vibration. Black bushings = softer = less possible cabin vibrations.
Thanks for the ultra fast shipping man.