Wow
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Wow
I installed the thermoblock spacers this weekend and it makes a slightly bigger difference in low end torque levels picking up in 2nd n 3rd..... intake sounds sick-er too...... =) anyone else do it?
#2
Oh yeah. Although having done the mods I have done I still stick to my guns that the underdrive pulley is still the king of mods/bang for the buck in the performance department. But hey for 100 bucks cant reallly argue about the thermoblock spacers. Pretty dang easy to install too, especially with a CAI. And good time to do the throttle body coolant bypass at the same time also.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
i didnt do the bypass i was holding off on it.... I was actually debating wether or not it makes a diff. does it make any diff? and the pulley does what exactly? and will it ruin anything ??? I know my friend on his g35 blew his engine because of it but i didnt do the install so i dont really know what goes into it in detail.
#4
Originally Posted by Tripnbeats
i didnt do the bypass i was holding off on it.... I was actually debating wether or not it makes a diff. does it make any diff? and the pulley does what exactly? and will it ruin anything ??? I know my friend on his g35 blew his engine because of it but i didnt do the install so i dont really know what goes into it in detail.
The pulley is a hunk of iron that gets spun by the engine and the UR pulley is very lightweight aluminum. Check out the thread I started on it. I find it extremely hard to believe that your friends motor was blown by the pulley. Just not possible unless the installation was jacked up or something.
#5
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
The bypass would be ok if you are in a climate that is always warm, but it might cause a problem in the winter. It prevents hot coolant from passing through the throttle body so it would keep it a bit cooler with it bypassed.
I decided to keep the coolant connections and I do notice a difference, mainly in the response and smoothness.
There are many many posts on the pro's, con's and myths of the lightweight pulley. The consensus is that it is the best bang for the buck but there are many debates if it will cause damage in the long run (no harmonic balancing but there is NVM dampers on the stock pulley). The advantage is pure mass, the stock pulley is much heaver than the UR unit.
I decided to keep the coolant connections and I do notice a difference, mainly in the response and smoothness.
There are many many posts on the pro's, con's and myths of the lightweight pulley. The consensus is that it is the best bang for the buck but there are many debates if it will cause damage in the long run (no harmonic balancing but there is NVM dampers on the stock pulley). The advantage is pure mass, the stock pulley is much heaver than the UR unit.
#6
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
The bypass would be ok if you are in a climate that is always warm, but it might cause a problem in the winter. It prevents hot coolant from passing through the throttle body so it would keep it a bit cooler with it bypassed.
I decided to keep the coolant connections and I do notice a difference, mainly in the response and smoothness.
There are many many posts on the pro's, con's and myths of the lightweight pulley. The consensus is that it is the best bang for the buck but there are many debates if it will cause damage in the long run (no harmonic balancing but there is NVM dampers on the stock pulley). The advantage is pure mass, the stock pulley is much heaver than the UR unit.
I decided to keep the coolant connections and I do notice a difference, mainly in the response and smoothness.
There are many many posts on the pro's, con's and myths of the lightweight pulley. The consensus is that it is the best bang for the buck but there are many debates if it will cause damage in the long run (no harmonic balancing but there is NVM dampers on the stock pulley). The advantage is pure mass, the stock pulley is much heaver than the UR unit.
Fo shizzle. I think that the idea behind the stock pulley ISNT just for NVH or cost. Some older cars you had to balance the flywheel with the harmonic balancer. Most ANYTHING is internally balanced now, but for comparisons sake. I have heard good and bad. Ive never had a problem with a stock one, and have not used an aftermarket one. A few (less than 10-20) HP isnt worth finding out it greatly increases potential or risk for part failure!
take care
Mark
#7
Down for a photoshoot?
iTrader: (4)
hey guys, I posted this in the older thread on the thermoblock spacers but no one answered @___@ so once again ...
for the top two studs that have to be taken out from the throttle body ... how'd you get those out? in the instructions it says to use the method with two bolts, however the thing is there's not enough space on the stud for two bolts to go on from what I'm seeing right now any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
for the top two studs that have to be taken out from the throttle body ... how'd you get those out? in the instructions it says to use the method with two bolts, however the thing is there's not enough space on the stud for two bolts to go on from what I'm seeing right now any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
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#10
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Originally Posted by crzygosu87
hey guys, I posted this in the older thread on the thermoblock spacers but no one answered @___@ so once again ...
for the top two studs that have to be taken out from the throttle body ... how'd you get those out? in the instructions it says to use the method with two bolts, however the thing is there's not enough space on the stud for two bolts to go on from what I'm seeing right now any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
for the top two studs that have to be taken out from the throttle body ... how'd you get those out? in the instructions it says to use the method with two bolts, however the thing is there's not enough space on the stud for two bolts to go on from what I'm seeing right now any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
Hey John,
What you have to do is..
Make sure your TB + any hoses are out of the way (meaning your studs are clear of everything).
Take the nuts that are supplied or, the original nuts that you removed from the studs and crew one on the edge, followed by the other.
You dont need to lock the nuts at the end of the threading, the edge is fine. Just thread the nuts enough to get both together on the stud.
Then, once both nuts are side by side, use a socket wrench + a normal wrench (in different direction) to unscrew the stud out...
Kinda hard to explain i guess . PM me if you want my number and ill walk you through it...
Oh, and the spacers rock.
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
yea man the thermo spacers took me about 2 hours to install. it was a bitch and 3/4 to get the old gaskets off....but ill tell u...they make a huge diff....the dude at acura was impressed becuz he didnt think they made them for the car.... for now i wont play with the pulley ill wait and watch to see if theres more good than bad or vice versa
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