road_boy

iTrader: (1)

I'm rolling in an 06TL A/T, 19' chrome rj's, now apart from having a hard time running against a brand new Tiburon 0-60 mph when i had my stocks on, the other day i ran my boy's 2002 Grand Am GT 170 hp and could not, i repeat COULD NOT pull on him 0-70 mph. . .

I know my 06 A/T is not meant to feel like the ultimate speed on-road roller coaster and due to the 500lbs curb weight difference and heavy rims, i fully understand the price i pay to roll in style. . .

To the point, i'm willing to spend around 8 bills strictly performance mods. What are ur suggestions to the single best mod under 8 bills that would definately increase my LOW end power/torque, given i roll on heavy rims during the summer days!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for ur suggestions in advance

XxAfG786xX

Get a Cold air intake, and a UR underdirve pulley...those two should def increase low end...my tires spin out on first gear with these babies

ib18c1

iTrader: (6)

not 100% sure on the TL...but isnt CAI more upper end power?
i know for the RSX CAI was top end power while SRI/air box was more low end torque.

I have a 4" SRI on my TL...def feel more of a kick in the lower end compared to CAI
this is also because its shorter piping so throttle response is a bit better me thinks...

I heard UR pulley also help with low end

road_boy

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to add, i already have a CAI, but i'll probably pick up a UR crank pulley. but thanks...more more more please!!!!!!!

road_boy

iTrader: (1)

This fool in his grand am is belligerantly telling everyone his car has a chance against the TL, failing to acknowledge the weight differences purposely. The status quo can't remain as such!!!!!!! I need to shut him and his ego up....feed me more ideas plz

evanj5

UR underive pulley is going to give you great throtle response probably best mod for low end torque on our cars right now, CAI is for high end power, the stock air box with some performance air filters put in would give you better low end power/response then the CAI, work on your launches, and ummmm.. get a super charger

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

UR pulley.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

take out the spare tire... and everything inside that little foam thing (tire iron etc...), then fill ur tires up 35 psi all the way around... leave the vsa on, and let the auto do what it does...

the ur pulley is a must (speeds up the revs)

ps. floor it off the line fuck the launch lmfao... you should be able to get infront of him from the jump even if you are tractionless... that will give your car an ego boost (yes cars have egos) and your car will continue to pick up hehehe

XxAfG786xX

ur pulley and basic weight reductions would help

I hate cars

I have an old NOS nitrous kit in the garage. Nothing will increase torque like nitrous or a supercharger. While I don't like nitrous, I'm thinking about spraying on my friend's IS350 just to shut him up. It's not something I would ever run in a normal situation, especially not on a TL, but there's nothing like constant harassment from friends to make you do things you normally wouldn't do...

ballinfizzle89

iTrader: (6)

hahaha I Hate Cars..you're crazy

UR Underdrive Puller is probably your solution..but I still don't get how you got pwned by a Tiburon, those are supposed to be one of the slowest V6's

00 acura tl

does any header do the the job for the 3g, for the 2g it helps a lot? dunno just giving ideas

THTL

iTrader: (2)

I guess i am gona pick up the UR pulley then.

road_boy

iTrader: (1)

I think u lose a little power on the low end with headers, gain power midrange to top end performance!

The Tiburon was a 2006 had the 2.7 MT and two sources ive checked says it runs to 60mph in 7.1 seconds. He also had a CAI... So its not that off from the TL. . . Plus i know how to drive an automatic!!!!!!!! Tried initially with VSA off and then with it on. . .same result, I even launched with my foot on the break while feathering the throttle, and still he still was riding hard beside me, even a tiny bit more pep at the end of his shifts!...*sigh*

P.S My car was bone stock then, no CAI no heavy rims!

John504

Do you need to change out belts for ur pulley or ur pulley just direct bolt on?

road_boy

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick inquisition, i have an amplifier that's running 200 watts RMS. . .with this under drive pulley, has anyone experienced any electrical side effects(dimmer lights in general, alternator/battery failures)?

I hate cars

I have never put an UD pulley on any car. My turbo car needs all the juice it can get for ignition and such. My TL has lots of electronics and things that draw a good amount of power like seat heaters, rear window defrosters, etc. If they made an UD crank pulley with a smaller alternator pulley to compensate, it might be worth it.


With that said, I think the only problems you might ever have is sitting at idle with the stereo, seat heater, headlights, etc. running. Most of the literature on alternators I've seen shows they can achieve full output just above idle.

sunny201

Drive it like you stole it, that should help lol... jokes aside, If the new tibs do 7.1 and you cant beat it stock, he either has some huge upgrade, or your TL has a serious problem.

I have some heavy ass 20" rims, a heavy ass system (two 12"s) and I beat a 6MT 2.0T VW GLI (which are fairly quick 0-60~6.1? ). The driver was a good driver, my car was just a little quicker. Sooo like I said if you cant beat him then he has some major upgrade, or your TL has some major flaw.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

forgot to mention... if you got 8bills.... get 200 more contact excelerate and drop in the eshift procats.... I hear you get like 20 ponies from that

oooh and get type s cam gear

road_boy

iTrader: (1)

My buddy has an 05AT and we had the same mods at the time (Only a CAI) lol and we ran neck and neck so i'm sure it wasn't my ride...

If you're talking about the manual Jetta GLI, the times recorded (2006-2007) 0-60 are around 6.5seconds (give or take a tenth of a second)...Our car's stock AT on their best launch are around 6.5 seconds too, so i don't understand how you took him with 20's and a system...Unless he had huge ass rims and a ton of weight in which case those small displacment engines don't do well under heavy loads...

WantTwoRun?

Do you need to change the belts for The UR pulley or or is it a bolt on?

WantTwoRun?

And witch 1 is the correct 1 on the ur site?

is this it for a 2004 tl

Allout

That's what I was thinking too - NOS

This was a nice kit for under $800
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=Nitrous

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

i beleive if you buy the pulley from excelerate he includes the belt you need

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

He has the belt but last I knew, it was at an extra cost.

joed40

Agree with everyone here. CAI and pulley are great, also the throttle body spacer made a difference as well.

XxAfG786xX

15 bux more

6spdtls

would you recommend stock diameter or smaller one?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

There are two types: stock size and underdrive. The stock size pulley does not require a new belt b/c it is the same diameter as the stock crank pulley. The underdrive requires a shorter belt. If you have a large stereo system (over 600 watts RMS) or a supercharger you would watn the stock size. You could use it regardless but otherwise UR recommends the underdrive. You will get maybe an extra 1 hp with the underdrive pulley.

And Joe made a good point. The P2R spacer is good for some low end grunt. It made 5 whp and 9 ft lbs of tq.

XxAfG786xX

Thanks for the UR Underdrive Pulley excelerate...my tires spin out in first gear when I floor it

jdmturbosol

If I am correct, the UR pulley eliminates the OEM crank damper.
I dont see where that pays off. Even for 5hp.

csmeance

nope, the balancer is inside the motor and causes not harm, this has been discussed greatly here.

jdmturbosol

not balancer, damper. the stock unit should have a high density rubber insert that dampens crank resonance. i installed a fluidamper on my drag car for this very issue. it actually has nothing to do with the balancer.
I have not seen an oem pulley as it might not have a damper anyway.

fiore8072

so ultra S is the way to go? how hard is this to install? can i do this myself?

John504

Do they have stock size ur pulley?

sqzbox

If you really want to improve the bottom end, put a supercharger on it.

lusid

Do tires make a difference? what tires are you running currently?

Eoanou

Stock pulley doesn't have a dampener.

ayethetiense

for the underdriven pulley, you will need to change to a different size belt. the underdriven pulley is not rec if you have a system that is 600 watts or more.

if your system is that high or higher, then just get the ligther weight pulley but same size.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Yes there is an elastomer. A drag car is different from a street car. You are pushing 3 times the hp of the stock engine and generally revving a lot higher than the stock redline. This will require an aftermarket damper like Fluidampr or ATI. In fact UR is supposed to release a line of dampers for those cars that are pushing 3 or more times the factory hp and pushing the RPM's. The elastomer is there to supress NVH associated with the pulleys, not crank vibrations.

I could explain this all over again as we have in many threads but here it is right from UR:

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.