ITL

The front mount has a vacuum line running to the bottom of it. I've replaced my engine mounts with the XLR8 mounts, but have no idea what to do with the vacuum lines... I can't just leave them open, can I? Those of you that have replace your mounts, what have you done with the vacuum lines?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Do you ever plan on going back to OEM mounts?

If so, zip tie the ends of lines closed. You dont want any vacuum leaks.

If not, remove all the lines and remove the module on the rear of the intake manifold. Use a rubber cap on the nipple so you dont have any leaks.

If you dont want to pull the lines, then you can put that rubber cap over the nipple on the manifold to prevent leaks.

Comptechtl2367

You could also just take a screw and put it in the end of the lines if you dont want to take them all the way out. More secure the a zip tie IMO

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I would plug the fitting as libert shows but also put something in the lines at the mount locations to keep the crap out just in case you do decide to use them again.

I hate cars

Cap or plug. I would cap also to avoid having a vacuum line just laying there.

7.5AV6MT

I put a screw in the end of mine with silicone grease...

ITL

Thanks for the help.

I pulled the lines out and capped off the manifold. I noticed there's a small module to the left of where that vacuum line hooked up. The module is on the vacuum line between the manifold and the engine mounts. I noticed that in libert69's pic above, the module is not present and the harness is just sitting there. I suppose I'll do the same. Anybody know what the module is?

I was thinking maybe I could just put the module back and plug in the harness, but I have no idea what it is...

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It's the control module for the mounts. If you aren't using stock mounts then it's useless.

ITL

okay. I just wanted to make sure is wasn't going to bork anything ECU related. thx.


As well, just for purposes of documentation, the two top bolts for the side XLR8 mount were 1 1/4" too long, and would not tighten down. That's too much slack to take up with washers Excelerate hasn't heard of anyone having problems, so it may be something specific to my situation. (2004 6mt) I ran out to Auto Zone and got two M10-1.25 x 30mm flanged bolts. Maybe this will help someone searching for the same...

I hate cars

That's interesting, I never know there was a control module. I just assumed more vacuum at idle meant a softer mount and when it loses the vacuum it goes firm.

SAMCES

Basicly that means that you can unhook the tubing from the mount to the solenoid and nothing happen?...
I'm thinking replacing my front and rear mount but I noticed the front tubing is missing..
maybe that cause some vibration during red signs with D4... when put in neutral the car feel smothh and runs great.
any advise?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I used the port the controller was connected to for my added goodies. I did keep the controller connected but as you see, Libert69 and Inaccurate both removed theirs with no issues. You should probably at the very least put a plug on the vacuum port on the IM just in case the solenoid stays open unconnected or definitely if you remove it altogether.

04socalTL

iTrader: (1)

please forgive my ignorance but do you use a jack to raise the engine in order to install the mounts?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

That's how I did it

Nova_brad

Just a heads up if you remove the control module... If you leave that electrical connector unplugged and decide sometime later down the road that you want to go back to stock, the connector will most likely have corrosion inside from the bare metal terminals contacting moisture in the air. It needs to have the weather pack type of seal to keep it out, that is the rubber seal inside one end of the connector that slides directly over an exact fit plastic piece on the module side, which keeps all the moisture out.
So I would either just leave the module plugged in with lines fully installed but PLUGGED, or if you really want to pull the module at least pack the connector full of dielectric grease and find some way of trying to cover the end of that connector.

Brad

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

That's what I did

04socalTL

iTrader: (1)

another question, what part on the engine would be the best point to put the jack on?
last thing i would want is to push up on a weak point and damage something

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

^^ I believe the oil pan would be the best place. I would have a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan to distribute pressure.

Opel

Right side of engine/ pass. Use the oil pan, but use a piece of 2x4 on the jack to distribute the weight on the pan a bit and you should be fine.

ProbyOne

You aren't the only one.

I ended up going a different route though. I used the top part of the factory side mount, the piece that has the grounding wire attached to it, in addition to the XLR8 bracket. I placed this piece on top of the XLR8 bracket but now need longer instead of shorter bolts.

IMO when buying mounts you should get all of the necessary parts. I'll pay 10 extra dollars for bolts if that is what it takes

Mike shirley

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

OEM mounts should be softer with the vacuum lines attach.

JMiles_T

The vacuum line is for vibration dampening when the vehicle is in gear and stopped, like when you're at a red light. You'll notice they aren't on the cars with manual transmissions because anyone at a red light will be separating the engine from the drivetrain using the clutch pedal anyway.

Mike shirley

JMiles_T

If you want comfort, you need to buy the Honda/Acura mounts. I haven't found aftermarket mounts that won't make the whole car vibrate.