Using AC really hampers performance
#2
Suzuka Master
floor it and it will automatically cut the compressor. anything less than that and you will loose the power necessary to drive the compressor, +/- 15hp i would guess. Should not be that dramatic of a loss. Its noticable, but not that dramatic.
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justnspace (07-04-2012)
#5
TL-S
iTrader: (4)
From my experience, the smaller the engine, the more drag a/c has on performance.
In the TL its pretty annoying though, you are correct...but on civic's and other smaller engines, its usually worse; they begin to idle rougher than normal and its a real challenge to pull out in front of someone or merge/pass
On my old 01' tahoe though I couldn't tell the difference. The engine had enough power to the point where it didn't affect it too much I guess...
In the TL its pretty annoying though, you are correct...but on civic's and other smaller engines, its usually worse; they begin to idle rougher than normal and its a real challenge to pull out in front of someone or merge/pass
On my old 01' tahoe though I couldn't tell the difference. The engine had enough power to the point where it didn't affect it too much I guess...
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#9
Can someone tell me why when i drive around running errands with the a/c on after about the 3rd stop i come back to my car and it wont crank? I have to turn it over about 10x and tap the gas to get it to crank
any suggestions or thoughts?
thanks
any suggestions or thoughts?
thanks
#10
Safety Car
Use the AC and drive the speed limit so everyone can see your beautiful TL
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justnspace (07-05-2012)
#18
Burning Brakes
#19
Burning Brakes
To my post above, the AC causes the car to work harder which equals to less power also more moving parts too.
With the advisory heat this month, lots of states been having record high, where we had 105 degree with humidity, the car will run sluggish via ecu pulling timing.
With the advisory heat this month, lots of states been having record high, where we had 105 degree with humidity, the car will run sluggish via ecu pulling timing.
#20
My 2004 6mt does not SEEM to cut off the compressor at WOT. To test I went WOT in 6th at around 40 and accelerated for quite some time and never noticed a drop in outlet temp from vents. I'm not 100% sure it doesnt cut it but I have a hard time believing my ac pressures were sustained long enough to keep spitting cold air out.
I'll have to test it with a scan tool sometime if our genisis scanner will tell me anything. Ps, no floor mat in the way of pedal since it hinges from bottom lol
I'll have to test it with a scan tool sometime if our genisis scanner will tell me anything. Ps, no floor mat in the way of pedal since it hinges from bottom lol
#21
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this is the best advice ive heard in this whole thread. The base TL and then Type-S is not even remotely a performance car in any aspect. Its a lower tier entry level luxury car and should be driven as so.
If you want a performance car go buy something like a BMW M3 or Mercedes C63.
#22
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
this is the best advice ive heard in this whole thread. The base TL and then Type-S is not even remotely a performance car in any aspect. Its a lower tier entry level luxury car and should be driven as so.
If you want a performance car go buy something like a BMW M3 or Mercedes C63.
If you want a performance car go buy something like a BMW M3 or Mercedes C63.
and if I recall correctly; Acura did market this car as a "sports sedan"
#23
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this is the best advice ive heard in this whole thread. The base TL and then Type-S is not even remotely a performance car in any aspect. Its a lower tier entry level luxury car and should be driven as so.
If you want a performance car go buy something like a BMW M3 or Mercedes C63.
If you want a performance car go buy something like a BMW M3 or Mercedes C63.
I suppose it's all what you define as a "performance car" though. To many, that would be anything with more than 150whp that can get up to 60mph in less than 7 seconds. To others, it wouldn't be anything less than something that runs a 10 second quarter mile.
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justnspace (07-05-2012)
#24
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Person who would call TL a non performance car either never drove it or not smart enough to feel the car under him.
WOT does turn off the compressor (what I felt throgh years)
WOT does turn off the compressor (what I felt throgh years)
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justnspace (07-09-2012)
#27
Instructor
I have been using my AC alot recently and I have been noticing how much it affects performance too. In my 2000 neon the loss was insane but thats coming from a 132 horsepower 4 banger. I didn't think it would be so bad on a car with double the horsepower. Its not a huge loss but noticeable. I actually turn off my AC when I decide to gun it.
I had no idea that at WOT the compressor shuts off I will need to try this.
I had no idea that at WOT the compressor shuts off I will need to try this.
#28
I have been using my AC alot recently and I have been noticing how much it affects performance too. In my 2000 neon the loss was insane but thats coming from a 132 horsepower 4 banger. I didn't think it would be so bad on a car with double the horsepower. Its not a huge loss but noticeable. I actually turn off my AC when I decide to gun it.
I had no idea that at WOT the compressor shuts off I will need to try this.
I had no idea that at WOT the compressor shuts off I will need to try this.
#31
I like turtles
anyone with half an understanding of how an engine works would know that running the compresser will put an extra load on the engine, equaling loss in power. Its not rocket science lol. This happens with all vehicles (duh), some more noticeable then others.
Some may say its not noticeable in the TL...but it depends where you came from. I drove a Grand Cherokee for 6 years that had a 5.9l engine it. AC made no affect on that thing. Someone who came from driving a 4 banger would probably be impressed....its all relative
Some may say its not noticeable in the TL...but it depends where you came from. I drove a Grand Cherokee for 6 years that had a 5.9l engine it. AC made no affect on that thing. Someone who came from driving a 4 banger would probably be impressed....its all relative
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#32
Intermediate
I don't think it's WOT that turns the AC off, it is pressure. Mine was doing this last week when my r134 pressures were way off, it was ALSO doing the whole "off and on at idle" issue that a lot of people report and that I've heard people say is "normal" for our cars.
Funny thing is, once I hooked a set of gauges up and got my R-134a levels straight, EVERY A/C PROBLEM I HAD WENT AWAY! This includes the on for 30 seconds off for 30 seconds at idle, and the "WOT compressor shutting off" thing that some people have mentioned.
Our cars do have a smart compressor, because I had 135psi in my low side, and I didn't blow my expansion valve while having the AC on, driving at high RPMs. The compressor clutch is electronically tied in with the pressure sensors (high side and low side), and it regulates when it goes on and off. So, if the switch is on and you go to high RPMS, AND have too high of pressure in your lines, the compressor will shut off and blow warm air.
With AC issues, take it to a mechanic. Don't trust my word, or anyone's word on an internet forum. Your AC system is one of the most expensive systems to repair in your car, be 100% sure by taking it to someone who can physically inspect it. Spend $100 bucks now to save $2000 later.
As for it lacking power with the AC on.. ya, it sucks but it's normal.
Funny thing is, once I hooked a set of gauges up and got my R-134a levels straight, EVERY A/C PROBLEM I HAD WENT AWAY! This includes the on for 30 seconds off for 30 seconds at idle, and the "WOT compressor shutting off" thing that some people have mentioned.
Our cars do have a smart compressor, because I had 135psi in my low side, and I didn't blow my expansion valve while having the AC on, driving at high RPMs. The compressor clutch is electronically tied in with the pressure sensors (high side and low side), and it regulates when it goes on and off. So, if the switch is on and you go to high RPMS, AND have too high of pressure in your lines, the compressor will shut off and blow warm air.
With AC issues, take it to a mechanic. Don't trust my word, or anyone's word on an internet forum. Your AC system is one of the most expensive systems to repair in your car, be 100% sure by taking it to someone who can physically inspect it. Spend $100 bucks now to save $2000 later.
As for it lacking power with the AC on.. ya, it sucks but it's normal.
#33
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#34
TLX-S
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I don't think it's WOT that turns the AC off, it is pressure. Mine was doing this last week when my r134 pressures were way off, it was ALSO doing the whole "off and on at idle" issue that a lot of people report and that I've heard people say is "normal" for our cars.
Funny thing is, once I hooked a set of gauges up and got my R-134a levels straight, EVERY A/C PROBLEM I HAD WENT AWAY! This includes the on for 30 seconds off for 30 seconds at idle, and the "WOT compressor shutting off" thing that some people have mentioned.
Our cars do have a smart compressor, because I had 135psi in my low side, and I didn't blow my expansion valve while having the AC on, driving at high RPMs. The compressor clutch is electronically tied in with the pressure sensors (high side and low side), and it regulates when it goes on and off. So, if the switch is on and you go to high RPMS, AND have too high of pressure in your lines, the compressor will shut off and blow warm air.
With AC issues, take it to a mechanic. Don't trust my word, or anyone's word on an internet forum. Your AC system is one of the most expensive systems to repair in your car, be 100% sure by taking it to someone who can physically inspect it. Spend $100 bucks now to save $2000 later.
As for it lacking power with the AC on.. ya, it sucks but it's normal.
Funny thing is, once I hooked a set of gauges up and got my R-134a levels straight, EVERY A/C PROBLEM I HAD WENT AWAY! This includes the on for 30 seconds off for 30 seconds at idle, and the "WOT compressor shutting off" thing that some people have mentioned.
Our cars do have a smart compressor, because I had 135psi in my low side, and I didn't blow my expansion valve while having the AC on, driving at high RPMs. The compressor clutch is electronically tied in with the pressure sensors (high side and low side), and it regulates when it goes on and off. So, if the switch is on and you go to high RPMS, AND have too high of pressure in your lines, the compressor will shut off and blow warm air.
With AC issues, take it to a mechanic. Don't trust my word, or anyone's word on an internet forum. Your AC system is one of the most expensive systems to repair in your car, be 100% sure by taking it to someone who can physically inspect it. Spend $100 bucks now to save $2000 later.
As for it lacking power with the AC on.. ya, it sucks but it's normal.
#35
Series Motor's
I would think this is pretty obvious, if your gas is going somewhere other then your cylinders o.O
On the contrary, and most of you would probably choose not to believe it, but in my 4 banger that shit gets a lot faster when I turn the AC lolll; however only after I installed the CAI. I dont know if the air flow is compensating to the power:weight
On the contrary, and most of you would probably choose not to believe it, but in my 4 banger that shit gets a lot faster when I turn the AC lolll; however only after I installed the CAI. I dont know if the air flow is compensating to the power:weight
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