Torque Specs for UR Stock Sized Crank Pulley (SC'd TL)
03-03-2007, 06:39 PM
#2
You can test the torque of the existing nut if still on
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
03-03-2007, 07:46 PM
#3
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You can test the torque of the existing nut if still on
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
I searched the thread you mention and all of the others with no information about what the correct torque spec is for the crank bolt with the stock sized LW UR crank pulley.
Anyone know this answer??
03-03-2007, 07:46 PM
#4
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You can test the torque of the existing nut if still on
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
Otherwise search for a DIY on UR install and should find specs there
I saw a thread recently with pics of full install
I searched the thread you mention and all of the others with no information about what the correct torque spec is for the crank bolt with the stock sized LW UR crank pulley.
Anyone know the answer??
03-03-2007, 08:59 PM
#5
I would contact member Inaccurate
he has done the mod and posted a whole thread on it.
Has the stock bolt already been moved- is that the prob?
As tight as possible is the likely answer considering people use a 3 foot breaker bar and bumping the starter to get them loose, it is a very important- and substantial size bolt-
Imagine the size of the wheel lugs and they are for 80 lbs
Crank bolt is probably bigger and if you have an air gun- tight as you can
he has done the mod and posted a whole thread on it.
Has the stock bolt already been moved- is that the prob?
As tight as possible is the likely answer considering people use a 3 foot breaker bar and bumping the starter to get them loose, it is a very important- and substantial size bolt-
Imagine the size of the wheel lugs and they are for 80 lbs
Crank bolt is probably bigger and if you have an air gun- tight as you can
03-03-2007, 09:07 PM
#6
Its no different than that of the regular underdrive pulley installation. Looking at the service manual....the OEM setting is at 47 lbf-ft with a torque wrench and 19MM socket.
03-04-2007, 12:27 AM
#7
Safety Car
MichaelBenz - With all due respect, please check again.
The factory value for the crank pulley is 181 ft. lbs. This is why the project is such a PITA for doing it yourself !!!
Now, we can open a new can-of-worms. UR specifies that the UR Pulley needs to be torqued in the following manner -
1) 47 ft-lbs.,
2) then turn an additional 60 degrees
Now, what does the "additional 60 degrees" turn equate into in terms of ft. lbs. ? I don't know. Thus, can of worms.
For mine, I told the mechanic to torque it to the 181 ft. lbs factory setting. He checked and confirmed the manual called for 181 ft lbs.
In retrospect, torquring it to 181 ft. lbs. might not be advisable. I read some things on the internet [shrug] that indicates any aluminum pulley might shatter under excessive clamping torque.
The factory value for the crank pulley is 181 ft. lbs. This is why the project is such a PITA for doing it yourself !!!
Now, we can open a new can-of-worms. UR specifies that the UR Pulley needs to be torqued in the following manner -
1) 47 ft-lbs.,
2) then turn an additional 60 degrees
Now, what does the "additional 60 degrees" turn equate into in terms of ft. lbs. ? I don't know. Thus, can of worms.
For mine, I told the mechanic to torque it to the 181 ft. lbs factory setting. He checked and confirmed the manual called for 181 ft lbs.
In retrospect, torquring it to 181 ft. lbs. might not be advisable. I read some things on the internet [shrug] that indicates any aluminum pulley might shatter under excessive clamping torque.
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03-04-2007, 01:22 AM
#8
Kind of like spark plugs on a grand scale
contact plus 1/3 turn or 13 lbs
Seems like a call to UR is in order to be sure
That 47lbs plus 60 degrees - they must have a number for that
or its a number higher than most homeowner torque wrenches will go to
contact plus 1/3 turn or 13 lbs
Seems like a call to UR is in order to be sure
That 47lbs plus 60 degrees - they must have a number for that
or its a number higher than most homeowner torque wrenches will go to
03-04-2007, 02:14 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
MichaelBenz - With all due respect, please check again.
The factory value for the crank pulley is 181 ft. lbs. This is why the project is such a PITA for doing it yourself !!!
Now, we can open a new can-of-worms. UR specifies that the UR Pulley needs to be torqued in the following manner -
1) 47 ft-lbs.,
2) then turn an additional 60 degrees
Now, what does the "additional 60 degrees" turn equate into in terms of ft. lbs. ? I don't know. Thus, can of worms.
For mine, I told the mechanic to torque it to the 181 ft. lbs factory setting. He checked and confirmed the manual called for 181 ft lbs.
In retrospect, torquring it to 181 ft. lbs. might not be advisable. I read some things on the internet [shrug] that indicates any aluminum pulley might shatter under excessive clamping torque.
The factory value for the crank pulley is 181 ft. lbs. This is why the project is such a PITA for doing it yourself !!!
Now, we can open a new can-of-worms. UR specifies that the UR Pulley needs to be torqued in the following manner -
1) 47 ft-lbs.,
2) then turn an additional 60 degrees
Now, what does the "additional 60 degrees" turn equate into in terms of ft. lbs. ? I don't know. Thus, can of worms.
For mine, I told the mechanic to torque it to the 181 ft. lbs factory setting. He checked and confirmed the manual called for 181 ft lbs.
In retrospect, torquring it to 181 ft. lbs. might not be advisable. I read some things on the internet [shrug] that indicates any aluminum pulley might shatter under excessive clamping torque.
03-04-2007, 02:35 AM
#11
Safety Car
Here is the UR Installation Instructions. It states -
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Torque Specification Procedure
• 47 ft-lbs. / 564 in-lbs. / 64 Nm, then turn an additional 60 degrees
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Torque Specification Procedure
• 47 ft-lbs. / 564 in-lbs. / 64 Nm, then turn an additional 60 degrees
03-09-2007, 05:21 PM
#13
Here's a hard question... When I installed my pulley, I had a hard time tightening up the pulley bolt, as it had a tendency to turn the crank at high torque. I even went and got the wife, had her sit with the foot on the brake and tried to tighten (which helped), but right as I hit that "engine rotation" torque, the crank would turn a bit...
Right now, my pulley is "as tight as I can get it".
What did everyone else do to lock the engine get the proper torque? I bet there are a lot of folks out there with the pulley "as tight as they could get it".
Right now, my pulley is "as tight as I can get it".
What did everyone else do to lock the engine get the proper torque? I bet there are a lot of folks out there with the pulley "as tight as they could get it".
03-12-2007, 09:30 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Here's a hard question... When I installed my pulley, I had a hard time tightening up the pulley bolt, as it had a tendency to turn the crank at high torque. I even went and got the wife, had her sit with the foot on the brake and tried to tighten (which helped), but right as I hit that "engine rotation" torque, the crank would turn a bit...
Right now, my pulley is "as tight as I can get it".
What did everyone else do to lock the engine get the proper torque? I bet there are a lot of folks out there with the pulley "as tight as they could get it".
Right now, my pulley is "as tight as I can get it".
What did everyone else do to lock the engine get the proper torque? I bet there are a lot of folks out there with the pulley "as tight as they could get it".
03-12-2007, 01:29 PM
#15
Yes...that is the case. It is in the service manual section 6-11 & 12. It mentions the following....Holder Handle 07JAB-001020A and Holder Attachment, 50mm, offset 07MAB-PY3010A. And it does appear to work on the pulley itself....even states...hold pulley with handle - and all it looks like is a box end wrench type attachment that is offset. Hope that helps.....
03-12-2007, 05:09 PM
#16
Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Yes...that is the case. It is in the service manual section 6-11 & 12. It mentions the following....Holder Handle 07JAB-001020A and Holder Attachment, 50mm, offset 07MAB-PY3010A. And it does appear to work on the pulley itself....even states...hold pulley with handle - and all it looks like is a box end wrench type attachment that is offset. Hope that helps.....
Most tuner shops don;t have this, and lots of folks are installing these in thier driveway via bumpstart. What are YOU FOLKS doing to get your pulley properly torqued?
03-14-2007, 09:47 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Yes...that is the case. It is in the service manual section 6-11 & 12. It mentions the following....Holder Handle 07JAB-001020A and Holder Attachment, 50mm, offset 07MAB-PY3010A. And it does appear to work on the pulley itself....even states...hold pulley with handle - and all it looks like is a box end wrench type attachment that is offset. Hope that helps.....
I think you are speaking in terms of the stock pulley only. If you look at this picture, the stock pulley has the hex shape in the the center, but the UR pulley does not.
I'm also trying to figure out how people are tightening the crank bolt.
03-14-2007, 10:31 PM
#18
Originally Posted by jonnyn
Michael,
I think you are speaking in terms of the stock pulley only. If you look at this picture, the stock pulley has the hex shape in the the center, but the UR pulley does not.
I'm also trying to figure out how people are tightening the crank bolt.
I think you are speaking in terms of the stock pulley only. If you look at this picture, the stock pulley has the hex shape in the the center, but the UR pulley does not.
I'm also trying to figure out how people are tightening the crank bolt.
03-22-2007, 10:17 PM
#21
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I find it hard to believe that out of all the UR pulleys installed that nobody has an answer to this question....
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
03-23-2007, 07:45 PM
#22
Originally Posted by RjS
I find it hard to believe that out of all the UR pulleys installed that nobody has an answer to this question....
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
03-23-2007, 08:46 PM
#23
Originally Posted by RjS
I find it hard to believe that out of all the UR pulleys installed that nobody has an answer to this question....
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
Are you ok with "as tight as I can"
I've been putting off the installation of the pulley I picked up from you until I found an answer to this question.
As you know torque specs are for a reason...
03-23-2007, 11:09 PM
#25
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let me know how that goes for you. I tried putting mine on today with no luck in getting the original drive pulley bolt off. Tried an impact wrench and a breaker bar. I ended up bending a 36in breaker bar before I finally threw in the towel.
03-24-2007, 09:54 AM
#26
Originally Posted by jonathan.chance
let me know how that goes for you. I tried putting mine on today with no luck in getting the original drive pulley bolt off. Tried an impact wrench and a breaker bar. I ended up bending a 36in breaker bar before I finally threw in the towel.
03-25-2007, 12:27 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by Kennedy
bump start method that bitch Jon. It'll pop loose.
03-31-2007, 11:50 PM
#28
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Kennedy - the blip didn't work.
check it out... https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...82#post1698782
check it out... https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...82#post1698782
04-01-2007, 08:44 PM
#30
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You gotta believe me when I tell you that there's no way even a 10 foot pipe would of worked for us. Pimpin_tl put a 3 in extension on the breaker bar to give us a little clearance and we ended up warping it. We went through hell getting that damn bolt off; but it's done now and I can start looking at the next mod...
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