Thinking about swapping my 3.7IM/TB back to stock 3.5
05-05-2014, 12:50 PM
#81
Three Wheelin'
^^
So you did the 3.7L swap?
Are you manual or auto? Any issues?
So you did the 3.7L swap?
Are you manual or auto? Any issues?
05-06-2014, 02:47 AM
#82
Advanced
3.7 manifold swap and 3.7 throttle body swap. Manual. And no. Lil rev hang at 4k. But not high or near redline. And it only rev hangs at 4k if I push the cluth in and let the rpm drop all the way down after wot. Here my YouTube vid of the driveabilty with it
we need more of them to help us
06-03-2014, 09:12 AM
#91
Three Wheelin'
^^
Do we have a volunteer to confirm this on a 3.7L swap?
Do we have a volunteer to confirm this on a 3.7L swap?
07-02-2014, 01:21 PM
#95
you may want to try this, (remove the periods)
http://www.v.6.performance.net/forum...y-relearn.html
http://www.v.6.performance.net/forum...y-relearn.html
This weekend I swapped back to my 3.5 IM/TB and all of the issues are gone. It's definitely smoother driving, taking off, etc but the shifting is is "loose" and sloppy with a slight bit of rev hang. This of course is normal for our cars, as they will never shift as tight as a WRX does.
I did notice a decrease in power, especially on the top end. What I am going to do next is build a 4" intake while my 3.5 equipment is installed and reinstall everything once I am finished with that.
I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of driver-friendliness for more power. Me wanting to swap back to the 3.5 IM/TB was driven by my thought that the car would have 0 rev hang and be tighter shifting and more fun to run through the gears. This was only slightly the case as the rev hang still exists. I do have a 14lb lightweight aluminum flywheel though.
07-02-2014, 03:41 PM
#97
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Wasn't the rev hang the actual issue though? Or did I miss something. I'm definitely swapping to the 3.7 IM because it looks cool. But I'm having second thoughts about the TB.
08-03-2014, 04:12 PM
#98
i just realized i got the "hanging issue" as well, its quite subtle which is why it hasnt really bothered me or really affected my driving but i figure i would give my input so that it can potentially be solved. i originally though it was because of my cams.
i only get it a low rpm and its only when i push the clutch pedal all the way and let the rpms drop till it hits about 800 which is around idle and then they bounce back up to about 1500rpm then dips to about 1100rpm and finally settles down at idle. It also happens if i blip the throttle while its idling and then does the exact same thing everytime.
i have no other issue that are like the other ones listed above.
here is the list of my most recent mods:
Stage 2 Bismoto cams
Supertech titanium springs/retainers
3.7 intake mani (pnp)
3.7 TB
Type s intake lower runners (pnp)
Aasco Alum FW
Clutchmaster fx300 kit
Progress RSB
K-Tuned Alum shifter base
3rd cat delete
New Flash-pro tune
Service:
160,000k Water pump/ t.Belt service
All fluids
New Brembo front pads
i will also chime in on the hondata forum so that we can get this taken care of ASAP
i hope this helps. i will post a video of my scenario soon
i only get it a low rpm and its only when i push the clutch pedal all the way and let the rpms drop till it hits about 800 which is around idle and then they bounce back up to about 1500rpm then dips to about 1100rpm and finally settles down at idle. It also happens if i blip the throttle while its idling and then does the exact same thing everytime.
i have no other issue that are like the other ones listed above.
here is the list of my most recent mods:
Stage 2 Bismoto cams
Supertech titanium springs/retainers
3.7 intake mani (pnp)
3.7 TB
Type s intake lower runners (pnp)
Aasco Alum FW
Clutchmaster fx300 kit
Progress RSB
K-Tuned Alum shifter base
3rd cat delete
New Flash-pro tune
Service:
160,000k Water pump/ t.Belt service
All fluids
New Brembo front pads
i will also chime in on the hondata forum so that we can get this taken care of ASAP
i hope this helps. i will post a video of my scenario soon
08-04-2014, 02:19 AM
#100
Three Wheelin'
i only get it a low rpm and its only when i push the clutch pedal all the way and let the rpms drop till it hits about 800 which is around idle and then they bounce back up to about 1500rpm then dips to about 1100rpm and finally settles down at idle. It also happens if i blip the throttle while its idling and then does the exact same thing everytime.
You PnP'd your 3.7 IM and lower runners, but not the 3.7L TB?
All my issues are gone, from cleaning the TB. Don't know why, best guess is ecu learning? I have noticed that if I bleep the throttle when downshifting a lot, the ecu seems to try and mimic that itself and begins to rev hang a little. I start to drive normally and it goes away (no down shifting, just let off the gas and use the brakes if needed).
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 08-04-2014 at 02:26 AM.
08-04-2014, 09:10 AM
#101
All motor
I don't experience rev hang on my setup, which consists of:
3.7 IM gasket matched to my PnP runners
Maxbored 3.7 TL-SHAWD Throttle Body
What I DO experience, is a ton of bucking. I'm hoping this gets better with tuning, but it really seems to be a tough bug to squash. It's to the point where even in 6th gear it bucks if I let off the throttle. It's REALLY bad when I'm slowing down for traffic in say, 3rd gear, and then push the gas pedal again....it bucks like 3-4 times and just feels awful. It's really terrible for daily driving, but it can only get better. My fiance does not approve lol.
3.7 IM gasket matched to my PnP runners
Maxbored 3.7 TL-SHAWD Throttle Body
What I DO experience, is a ton of bucking. I'm hoping this gets better with tuning, but it really seems to be a tough bug to squash. It's to the point where even in 6th gear it bucks if I let off the throttle. It's REALLY bad when I'm slowing down for traffic in say, 3rd gear, and then push the gas pedal again....it bucks like 3-4 times and just feels awful. It's really terrible for daily driving, but it can only get better. My fiance does not approve lol.
08-04-2014, 09:42 AM
#102
Don't think this is 3.7L related, since mine does the same thing with bolt ons. We're talking about rev hang when shifting, when your revs don't drop after you engage the clutch, or in some cases, the revs actually climb. Any of that?
You PnP'd your 3.7 IM and lower runners, but not the 3.7L TB?
All my issues are gone, from cleaning the TB. Don't know why, best guess is ecu learning? I have noticed that if I bleep the throttle when downshifting a lot, the ecu seems to try and mimic that itself and begins to rev hang a little. I start to drive normally and it goes away (no down shifting, just let off the gas and use the brakes if needed).
You PnP'd your 3.7 IM and lower runners, but not the 3.7L TB?
All my issues are gone, from cleaning the TB. Don't know why, best guess is ecu learning? I have noticed that if I bleep the throttle when downshifting a lot, the ecu seems to try and mimic that itself and begins to rev hang a little. I start to drive normally and it goes away (no down shifting, just let off the gas and use the brakes if needed).
Woohooo lol jk
What is so different from my setup to everybody elses?
Is it because my TB is not pnp?
08-04-2014, 10:17 AM
#103
Three Wheelin'
Don't think PnP or not makes a diff, I believe everyone claims some sort of issues with the 3.7L and the 6mt trans cars. Autos seem to be ok. Rev hang / bucking / etc sucks, ruins the driving experience, and not worth the extra 5-10hp IMO.
08-04-2014, 12:04 PM
#104
I don't experience rev hang on my setup, which consists of:
3.7 IM gasket matched to my PnP runners
Maxbored 3.7 TL-SHAWD Throttle Body
What I DO experience, is a ton of bucking. I'm hoping this gets better with tuning, but it really seems to be a tough bug to squash. It's to the point where even in 6th gear it bucks if I let off the throttle. It's REALLY bad when I'm slowing down for traffic in say, 3rd gear, and then push the gas pedal again....it bucks like 3-4 times and just feels awful. It's really terrible for daily driving, but it can only get better. My fiance does not approve lol.
3.7 IM gasket matched to my PnP runners
Maxbored 3.7 TL-SHAWD Throttle Body
What I DO experience, is a ton of bucking. I'm hoping this gets better with tuning, but it really seems to be a tough bug to squash. It's to the point where even in 6th gear it bucks if I let off the throttle. It's REALLY bad when I'm slowing down for traffic in say, 3rd gear, and then push the gas pedal again....it bucks like 3-4 times and just feels awful. It's really terrible for daily driving, but it can only get better. My fiance does not approve lol.
I can improve your daily driving a lot just with flashpro tuning, just ask it's free!
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Sonnick (08-07-2014)
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DomGSR-T (08-04-2014)
08-06-2014, 10:25 AM
#106
Three Wheelin'
I think I'm sticking with the 3.5L parts for now. Car is going in the shop next week, and the 3.5L TB / IM / runners will go out for PnP. *Hopefully* PnP'ing the stock parts wont create these issues - anyone know? Fingers crossed...
08-06-2014, 02:33 PM
#107
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
you'll be fine
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FamilyGuy (08-06-2014)
08-06-2014, 04:09 PM
#108
Three Wheelin'
Good to hear 
I may need to wait till after the holidays for a hondata tune.
I may need to wait till after the holidays for a hondata tune.
08-06-2014, 08:49 PM
#109
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
With all the mods you have I would try to get it ASAP. It's night and day when you have a tuned ECU for your mods. When I put mine back to stock for smog tests, I was like this is weak and couldn't wait to load my tune again haha
08-06-2014, 08:53 PM
#110
Three Wheelin'
You sir, are a bad influence 
08-06-2014, 10:03 PM
#112
Three Wheelin'
Why do you need to go back to stock ECU tune for a smog test? Don't most states just check to see if you have a check engine light, and if you don't, they don't use the sensor on the exhaust anymore? They just do a safety inspection?
08-06-2014, 11:01 PM
#113
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
The whole story is told here.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=864671&page=2
Last edited by sockr1; 08-06-2014 at 11:04 PM.
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FamilyGuy (08-07-2014)
10-22-2014, 10:12 PM
#114
Well, I thought I'd disassemble the ZDX throttle body to see whats inside and here are some pics of the assembly of the throttle body. I damaged one of the brass press plugs, sort of like a freeze plug (by the throttle plate) that protects one of the bearings, but found some aluminum parts that will substitute and match up to the dimensions so I can replace it when it goes back together.
Going to be powder coating it, but here's the run-down on what that set screw on top of them does, which probably was easily inferred.
Honda has an interesting way of integrating their electronics into parts, the electronic bits are actually molded into the plastic casing on the outside. There is no way to access, replace or alter them without permanently damaging the plastic molding. The alternator is the same way - that plastic backing on it contains your voltage regulator. Interestingly it's molded into it, so to replace it you have to replace the entire plastic part.
Electronic unit removed..
Inside of electronic unit
gear removed and three screws holding in the DC motor
electric motor removed - the other end of it here
throttle plate screws removed
And here are the two set screws. The inaccessible one sets the throttle plate fully closed position - as in if it closes anymore the plate will jam in the throttle body, the one that is inaccessible from the outside sets this stop.
The one on top, accessible from outside sets the position of the throttle plate when the motor is not driving it at all. Turning this counter-clockwise will allow the throttle plate to CLOSE further when the motor is not driving it and turning it clockwise will OPEN it further when the motor is not driving it at all.
The only way for the motor to close the throttle plate further from where the accessible set screw puts it at is by reversing.
Factory mark on the spring, this one lines up with the throttle plate is in it's maximum closed position.
Another factory mark, this one on the gear the shaft is mounted to, it lines up to the plastic tab when the throttle plate is in it's maximum closed position.
Note the center of the throttle plate gear, it has two small magnets on it that work with a sensor that is located on the electronic unit (the plastic housing) to relay the position of the throttle plate.
Fully closed, has to be manually moved here.
Fully disassembled and ready to go to a powder coater. Notice two bearings, one is under the brass expansion plug on the end that you can see and the other is underneath the spring/gear/throttle shaft assembly.
Shot inside.
The other end - where the brass plug is that I damaged during disassembly, it'll be replaced with an aluminum one of the same dimensions. It's function is two-fold, 1 - Hold in the bearing, 2 - Seal it from the outside.
That's all, so now you know what turning that screw does lol..
Going to be powder coating it, but here's the run-down on what that set screw on top of them does, which probably was easily inferred.
Honda has an interesting way of integrating their electronics into parts, the electronic bits are actually molded into the plastic casing on the outside. There is no way to access, replace or alter them without permanently damaging the plastic molding. The alternator is the same way - that plastic backing on it contains your voltage regulator. Interestingly it's molded into it, so to replace it you have to replace the entire plastic part.
Electronic unit removed..
Inside of electronic unit
gear removed and three screws holding in the DC motor
electric motor removed - the other end of it here
throttle plate screws removed
And here are the two set screws. The inaccessible one sets the throttle plate fully closed position - as in if it closes anymore the plate will jam in the throttle body, the one that is inaccessible from the outside sets this stop.
The one on top, accessible from outside sets the position of the throttle plate when the motor is not driving it at all. Turning this counter-clockwise will allow the throttle plate to CLOSE further when the motor is not driving it and turning it clockwise will OPEN it further when the motor is not driving it at all.
The only way for the motor to close the throttle plate further from where the accessible set screw puts it at is by reversing.
Factory mark on the spring, this one lines up with the throttle plate is in it's maximum closed position.
Another factory mark, this one on the gear the shaft is mounted to, it lines up to the plastic tab when the throttle plate is in it's maximum closed position.
Note the center of the throttle plate gear, it has two small magnets on it that work with a sensor that is located on the electronic unit (the plastic housing) to relay the position of the throttle plate.
Fully closed, has to be manually moved here.
Fully disassembled and ready to go to a powder coater. Notice two bearings, one is under the brass expansion plug on the end that you can see and the other is underneath the spring/gear/throttle shaft assembly.
Shot inside.
The other end - where the brass plug is that I damaged during disassembly, it'll be replaced with an aluminum one of the same dimensions. It's function is two-fold, 1 - Hold in the bearing, 2 - Seal it from the outside.
That's all, so now you know what turning that screw does lol..
Last edited by mzilvar; 10-22-2014 at 10:18 PM.
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Slpr04UA6 (10-23-2014)
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rockstar143 (06-12-2016)
06-12-2016, 07:28 AM
#117
HI DOM!!!!Just waiting on the sale of these type s wheels for the funds.
It might be because it was before the valve adjustment...but I swapped Jpipe yesterday and the rear hfpc gasket was dark colored (burning rich?).
