Taming the beast! PCD Rasp (videos posted)
08-22-2010, 09:02 PM
#81
what should this thread be titled as?
LMAO....i didnt even catch on to that typo lol
your welcome...i would recommend this exhaust setup to anyone looking for some quick bolt on gains..i would get the v3/v2 combo together to save $100 from richie.the videos do no justice this thing sounds amazing in person
your welcome...i would recommend this exhaust setup to anyone looking for some quick bolt on gains..i would get the v3/v2 combo together to save $100 from richie.the videos do no justice this thing sounds amazing in person
08-23-2010, 07:00 AM
#85
rv6 v3 jpipe/v2 pcd is well worth it, buy it while you can save $100
, but you will get rasp
. so the combo was installed yesterday and i'm getting the same exact sound as the op
.
exhaust set up...from front to back...v2 pcd, v3 jpipe, dynomax resonator, mid-muffler delete, stock 2 mufflers and tips. I didn't think i would get rasp already having the aftermarket resonator but its hella loud @ 2500-4000ish rpm...just like OP's before installing aftermarket resonator. Pm'ed Richie and he mentioned i might need to put my stock mid muffler back on....yikes....i don't have this piece anymore...can that be the culprit???
, but you will get rasp. so the combo was installed yesterday and i'm getting the same exact sound as the op. exhaust set up...from front to back...v2 pcd, v3 jpipe, dynomax resonator, mid-muffler delete, stock 2 mufflers and tips. I didn't think i would get rasp already having the aftermarket resonator but its hella loud @ 2500-4000ish rpm...just like OP's before installing aftermarket resonator. Pm'ed Richie and he mentioned i might need to put my stock mid muffler back on....yikes....i don't have this piece anymore...can that be the culprit???
08-23-2010, 07:54 AM
#87
okay maybe just a bit healthier, i didn't reinstall some of the brackets during installing the pcd's, figure i didn't need em', a few of those o2 sensor brackets
Last edited by warren4066; 08-23-2010 at 07:57 AM.
08-23-2010, 11:51 AM
#89
OP one last question for you, with that exhaust setup, how is the stinkiness inside the cabin? I've had a catless car before (my old STi) and it got a little smelly if I let it idle in park for a while. Same deal with the TL?
08-23-2010, 02:19 PM
#91
That's what I was thinking, my STi was especially stinky on the race fuel. That alone may be a dealbreaker for me doing the PCDs AND the Jpipe. I guess I could do a different Jpipe that doesn't remove the third cat like the RV6 v3 does and stick with the RV6 PCDs...
08-23-2010, 03:37 PM
#92
All motor
^^ OR you can get both the PCDs/V3 Jpipe and just add a catalytic converter to your system. You don't need the stock cat, just get a Magnaflow or Vibrant.
Glad you got everything resolved Blacktsx. I'm sure it sounds really good, I can't view the videos at work.
Glad you got everything resolved Blacktsx. I'm sure it sounds really good, I can't view the videos at work.
08-23-2010, 04:10 PM
#94
Former Sponsor
That's what I was thinking, my STi was especially stinky on the race fuel. That alone may be a dealbreaker for me doing the PCDs AND the Jpipe. I guess I could do a different Jpipe that doesn't remove the third cat like the RV6 v3 does and stick with the RV6 PCDs...
I like the Magnaflow spun high flow cats. They are 250-300 Cell metallic substrate. It will reduce around 90% of the smell and help tame the rasp as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59956/
08-23-2010, 06:24 PM
#96
Former Sponsor
08-23-2010, 08:42 PM
#97
I added my 2nd AR-30 right behind the first. I haven't had a chance to fully try it since it was late and I have neighbors with young kids so I will try taking a short vid tomorrow.
But it definitely was less if not totally gone.
What didn't change is the volume. Not sure yet but I may add a small muffler behind it to tone down the volume. The nice thing is that it's not super droning like my Magnaflow's were.
But it definitely was less if not totally gone.
What didn't change is the volume. Not sure yet but I may add a small muffler behind it to tone down the volume. The nice thing is that it's not super droning like my Magnaflow's were.
08-23-2010, 09:31 PM
#98
rv6 v3 jpipe/v2 pcd is well worth it, buy it while you can save $100, but you will get rasp. so the combo was installed yesterday and i'm getting the same exact sound as the op.
exhaust set up...from front to back...v2 pcd, v3 jpipe, dynomax resonator, mid-muffler delete, stock 2 mufflers and tips. I didn't think i would get rasp already having the aftermarket resonator but its hella loud @ 2500-4000ish rpm...just like OP's before installing aftermarket resonator. Pm'ed Richie and he mentioned i might need to put my stock mid muffler back on....yikes....i don't have this piece anymore...can that be the culprit???
, but you will get rasp. so the combo was installed yesterday and i'm getting the same exact sound as the op. exhaust set up...from front to back...v2 pcd, v3 jpipe, dynomax resonator, mid-muffler delete, stock 2 mufflers and tips. I didn't think i would get rasp already having the aftermarket resonator but its hella loud @ 2500-4000ish rpm...just like OP's before installing aftermarket resonator. Pm'ed Richie and he mentioned i might need to put my stock mid muffler back on....yikes....i don't have this piece anymore...can that be the culprit???
^^ OR you can get both the PCDs/V3 Jpipe and just add a catalytic converter to your system. You don't need the stock cat, just get a Magnaflow or Vibrant.
with the v3 j pipe it eliminates the 3rd cat so you would have to get a cat welded on..
Glad you got everything resolved Blacktsx. I'm sure it sounds really good, I can't view the videos at work.
with the v3 j pipe it eliminates the 3rd cat so you would have to get a cat welded on..
Glad you got everything resolved Blacktsx. I'm sure it sounds really good, I can't view the videos at work.
08-24-2010, 07:25 AM
#101
Safety Car
The PCD's are beastly in more ways than one 
After approx 2000 - 3000 miles, the rear bumper around the exhaust tips will turn nasty dark brown color. The chrome areas of the tip will go from chrome to brown to dark brown to almost dark charcoal black over a 10,000 mile period if not cleaned.
White car + Beastly PCD =
The discoloration around the exhaust tips is *not* water soluble. This means that soap will not remove it... not in the slightest.
Furthermore, not just any solvent will remove it. I tried Mineral Spirits and no luck. I then tried isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 90% solution) and the alcohol works.... barely.
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, preferably 90%, to remove the brown residue. Use a soft 100% cotton (Gerber baby diaper from Walmart) or microfiber to rub. Let the alcohol do the work. Don't apply too much pressure. Use a lot of alcohol. Keep the area damp with alcohol while *gently* rubbing. It will take about 3-5 minutes to dissolve the stain in the area that you are working on. That is, it will take about 10-15 minutes to remove the stains from both tips and the surrounding painted bumper.
Take your time to allow the alcohol to do the work without rubbing much. This is something that you will be doing once per month or once every few months. Be gentle with the paint. Absolutely No paper towels.
After approx 2000 - 3000 miles, the rear bumper around the exhaust tips will turn nasty dark brown color. The chrome areas of the tip will go from chrome to brown to dark brown to almost dark charcoal black over a 10,000 mile period if not cleaned.
White car + Beastly PCD =
The discoloration around the exhaust tips is *not* water soluble. This means that soap will not remove it... not in the slightest.
Furthermore, not just any solvent will remove it. I tried Mineral Spirits and no luck. I then tried isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 90% solution) and the alcohol works.... barely.
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, preferably 90%, to remove the brown residue. Use a soft 100% cotton (Gerber baby diaper from Walmart) or microfiber to rub. Let the alcohol do the work. Don't apply too much pressure. Use a lot of alcohol. Keep the area damp with alcohol while *gently* rubbing. It will take about 3-5 minutes to dissolve the stain in the area that you are working on. That is, it will take about 10-15 minutes to remove the stains from both tips and the surrounding painted bumper.
Take your time to allow the alcohol to do the work without rubbing much. This is something that you will be doing once per month or once every few months. Be gentle with the paint. Absolutely No paper towels.
08-24-2010, 08:40 AM
#102
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
After reading all the information on this thread I am really beginning to regret my purchase of the PCD's. It seems as though they are more of a hassle (for me) then they are worth.
I want to see all of the power gains but I don't want to get all of the rasp, the smell, and the discoloration.
Now I'm just debating...
I want to see all of the power gains but I don't want to get all of the rasp, the smell, and the discoloration.
Now I'm just debating...
08-24-2010, 12:22 PM
#106
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
I already brought it and I have my deposit down for the RV-6 Exhaust. At this point I thing that I rather have the J-pipe and the Exhaust. I'll probably put the exhaust on before the winter and then put the PCD's on in the spring. I don't want to have all that power and be surrounded by snow and not able to use it.
08-24-2010, 01:29 PM
#107
Like Sonick said you can have a 3rd cat welded in after the V3.
I like the Magnaflow spun high flow cats. They are 250-300 Cell metallic substrate. It will reduce around 90% of the smell and help tame the rasp as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59956/
I like the Magnaflow spun high flow cats. They are 250-300 Cell metallic substrate. It will reduce around 90% of the smell and help tame the rasp as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59956/
Don't take this as me being argumentative, I'm just playing devil's advocate. I REALLY like both of your exhaust products and I'm going to buy one or both directly from you regardless. I just want to do it in the most cost effective way and with the least number of side effects. Going through the hassle of buying another high flow cat and paying to have it professionally welded in place in this case negates the benefit of the discount you get for buying the PCD/Jpipe combo.
08-24-2010, 02:24 PM
#108
Former Sponsor
I see the concept of welding in another cat, but doesn't that defeat the purpose of removing a cat with the V3 jpipe? I understand that the new cat is going to be high flow, but this is an NA application...we're not talking about a huge difference in horsepower or having to deal with turbo spool, etc.
Don't take this as me being argumentative, I'm just playing devil's advocate. I REALLY like both of your exhaust products and I'm going to buy one or both directly from you regardless. I just want to do it in the most cost effective way and with the least number of side effects. Going through the hassle of buying another high flow cat and paying to have it professionally welded in place in this case negates the benefit of the discount you get for buying the PCD/Jpipe combo.
Don't take this as me being argumentative, I'm just playing devil's advocate. I REALLY like both of your exhaust products and I'm going to buy one or both directly from you regardless. I just want to do it in the most cost effective way and with the least number of side effects. Going through the hassle of buying another high flow cat and paying to have it professionally welded in place in this case negates the benefit of the discount you get for buying the PCD/Jpipe combo.
08-24-2010, 02:28 PM
#109
It wouldn't be as big of an issue if this was a weekend car or if I didn't drive as much or interact with clients as much as I do...but dealing with the hassles of a catless setup where the hp advantages won't outweigh the comfortability disadvantages is my only concern.
08-24-2010, 02:35 PM
#110
Former Sponsor
Awesome that sounds like a good compromise! What does your projected timeline look like for those high flow precats?
It wouldn't be as big of an issue if this was a weekend car or if I didn't drive as much or interact with clients as much as I do...but dealing with the hassles of a catless setup where the hp advantages won't outweigh the comfortability disadvantages is my only concern.
It wouldn't be as big of an issue if this was a weekend car or if I didn't drive as much or interact with clients as much as I do...but dealing with the hassles of a catless setup where the hp advantages won't outweigh the comfortability disadvantages is my only concern.
Last edited by Richie v6; 08-24-2010 at 02:38 PM.
08-24-2010, 06:15 PM
#112
The PCD's are beastly in more ways than one
After approx 2000 - 3000 miles, the rear bumper around the exhaust tips will turn nasty dark brown color. The chrome areas of the tip will go from chrome to brown to dark brown to almost dark charcoal black over a 10,000 mile period if not cleaned.
White car + Beastly PCD =
The discoloration around the exhaust tips is *not* water soluble. This means that soap will not remove it... not in the slightest.
Furthermore, not just any solvent will remove it. I tried Mineral Spirits and no luck. I then tried isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 90% solution) and the alcohol works.... barely.
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, preferably 90%, to remove the brown residue. Use a soft 100% cotton (Gerber baby diaper from Walmart) or microfiber to rub. Let the alcohol do the work. Don't apply too much pressure. Use a lot of alcohol. Keep the area damp with alcohol while *gently* rubbing. It will take about 3-5 minutes to dissolve the stain in the area that you are working on. That is, it will take about 10-15 minutes to remove the stains from both tips and the surrounding painted bumper.
Take your time to allow the alcohol to do the work without rubbing much. This is something that you will be doing once per month or once every few months. Be gentle with the paint. Absolutely No paper towels.
After approx 2000 - 3000 miles, the rear bumper around the exhaust tips will turn nasty dark brown color. The chrome areas of the tip will go from chrome to brown to dark brown to almost dark charcoal black over a 10,000 mile period if not cleaned.
White car + Beastly PCD =
The discoloration around the exhaust tips is *not* water soluble. This means that soap will not remove it... not in the slightest.
Furthermore, not just any solvent will remove it. I tried Mineral Spirits and no luck. I then tried isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 90% solution) and the alcohol works.... barely.
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, preferably 90%, to remove the brown residue. Use a soft 100% cotton (Gerber baby diaper from Walmart) or microfiber to rub. Let the alcohol do the work. Don't apply too much pressure. Use a lot of alcohol. Keep the area damp with alcohol while *gently* rubbing. It will take about 3-5 minutes to dissolve the stain in the area that you are working on. That is, it will take about 10-15 minutes to remove the stains from both tips and the surrounding painted bumper.
Take your time to allow the alcohol to do the work without rubbing much. This is something that you will be doing once per month or once every few months. Be gentle with the paint. Absolutely No paper towels.
After reading all the information on this thread I am really beginning to regret my purchase of the PCD's. It seems as though they are more of a hassle (for me) then they are worth.
I want to see all of the power gains but I don't want to get all of the rasp, the smell, and the discoloration.
Now I'm just debating...
I want to see all of the power gains but I don't want to get all of the rasp, the smell, and the discoloration.
Now I'm just debating...
richie any idea on renaming this thread?
thanks...are you gonna get the resonator?
08-24-2010, 06:47 PM
#113
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
Can.
Not.
Wait.
Til.
My.
Precats.
Are.
On.
Not.
Wait.
Til.
My.
Precats.
Are.
On.
08-25-2010, 02:06 AM
#115
Former Sponsor
We will be using some high flow units. I plan on doing some flow testing.
08-25-2010, 09:59 PM
#117
Safety Car
The angled defoulers supplied with the PCD are nearly perfect or possibly absolutely perfect. There have been just a very, very few people on Acuarazine that have had CEL with the Version 2 PCD.
In my opinion, these very few cases might had been from O2 sensors being damaged during the PCD install, and not the fault of the defoulers. The sensors are delicate and easily damaged. Hitting on the wrench to break loose the stubborn sensor will send damaging vibrations to the sensor. Get oil (anti-seize?) on the business-end of the sensor and the sensor is compromised. Drop the loose sensor hard on the concrete floor and it is compromised.
In my opinion, these very few cases might had been from O2 sensors being damaged during the PCD install, and not the fault of the defoulers. The sensors are delicate and easily damaged. Hitting on the wrench to break loose the stubborn sensor will send damaging vibrations to the sensor. Get oil (anti-seize?) on the business-end of the sensor and the sensor is compromised. Drop the loose sensor hard on the concrete floor and it is compromised.
08-26-2010, 06:33 AM
#120
The angled defoulers supplied with the PCD are nearly perfect or possibly absolutely perfect. There have been just a very, very few people on Acuarazine that have had CEL with the Version 2 PCD.
In my opinion, these very few cases might had been from O2 sensors being damaged during the PCD install, and not the fault of the defoulers. The sensors are delicate and easily damaged. Hitting on the wrench to break loose the stubborn sensor will send damaging vibrations to the sensor. Get oil (anti-seize?) on the business-end of the sensor and the sensor is compromised. Drop the loose sensor hard on the concrete floor and it is compromised.
In my opinion, these very few cases might had been from O2 sensors being damaged during the PCD install, and not the fault of the defoulers. The sensors are delicate and easily damaged. Hitting on the wrench to break loose the stubborn sensor will send damaging vibrations to the sensor. Get oil (anti-seize?) on the business-end of the sensor and the sensor is compromised. Drop the loose sensor hard on the concrete floor and it is compromised.
You can tell just by looking at them that they're delicate.