I installed my new Comptech rear sway bar today. I did the install without removing the rear wheel or putting the car on ramps. Removing the old bar was tricky and putting the new bar in was even more of a challenge, due to the additional thickness (particularly at the ends). All in all, that part went fine (thanks to other posts and step-by-step directions).

I ran into problems when mounting the Energy Suspension Bushings (ESB). I greased the bushings, installed them to the bar and went to bold them to the chassis mount. It was impossible to get the stock bolts to align with the ESB brackets and fit into the holes. On each side, I could only get one bolt in, the other would never go in. I tried squeezing the ESB bracket together a little with channel lock plyers, but that didn't help with the alignment. I finally gave up and settled on the Comptech bushings and factory brackets with the plan to have my local shop install the others while the car is on a lift (and with longer bolts)

During my 30+ minutes of wrestling with the ESB bracket, I managed to partially strip one of the bushing bracket mounting nuts. So now, my end bolts are good and I have 3 bushing bracket bolts installed and tight. One bolt is not installed.

My questions are:
1. Can I safely drive the car with one side of the bushing not properly anchored (as in a couple of miles to a local shop).

2. Where should I take the car? Acura or a chain mechanic (Goodyear/Firestone Service Center)?

3. Can they rethread the fixed nut, or does it need to be cut out and a new one welded in?

4. Those of you who have done this install with longer bolts, can you please let me know the bolt size/specs?

5. Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

I'm lost, Whats a Sway Bar, What does it do ?, How does it help ?

 

lyk3n0other8, you can learn about stabelizer bars ("anti-sway bars") here:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question432.htm

 

ThrotTLup asked me to move this to 3G so he can get some answers soon. I'll move it back to the proper subforum tomorrow.

 

Im not sure I would drive that car anywhere with only one bolt holding the bushing on. I would just take the bolt to the hardware store and match it with another one.

If you have a tap and dye set you could try cleanin those threads up...

 

How hard is it to retap the nut? Do I have to go up a size? And can I do it without a lift? What harm can I do or what are the risks of driving (slowly) a couple of miles? Any thoughts?

 

well you're not retapping the nut. Unless what you're saying is you mess up the nutplate that the bolt threads into.

I thought you said you messed the bolt up. I misread it, you can retap that hole. I would just use the same thread pitch. I wouldnt go up a size. You probably didnt mess the threads up that bad. If I had a bolt with me I would measure it for you. I have a tap and dye in the garage.

 

I would just take the bar off the car if you need to drive it somewhere close. Just take it slow..

 

it keeps the body of the car from leaning in turns....

 

i really don't understand what you did wrong. if you stripped your bolt, go to a auto parts store and match it up with a new one. if you stripped the nut, you can either re-tap it and use a thicker bolt or have someone cut the old nut off and re-weld a new one.
like they said, drive slow and be REAL easy in corners and large bumps.
good luck.....i guess you are the first with this problem, let us know how it turns out.

 

I guess that I am not positive if I stripped the nut or only the bolt. The threads on the bolt are messed up for the first 1/8 to 1/4 inch. It will go into (cross threaded) the mounting bracket nut for a couple of revolutions before it starts to bind. I presumed that the binding was when the good threads on the nut started to catch the cross threads on the bolt. Maybe it is just the bolt that is messed up. I'll try a new bolt before I try tapping the nut (which sounds scary to me).... Thanks for the comments!

 

Could someone please provide the bolt specs for the bushing bracket bolts?

Thanks!

 

The best way to solve this problem is to purchase new bolts that are socket head cap screws that are also about 1/4 inch longer. The hex head allows you to use an allen wrench so that you can have the bolt/screw head right tight up against the upturned leg of the bracket, you will not need to get a wrench or socket over it in order to tighten it up. And the extra length allows you to get the bolts started easier since the bolt holes on the bracket are not fully aligned with the bolt holes in the chassis. If i remember correctly they were M8 25's

 

Thanks everyonem for taking time to reply. I got some longer hex head bolts AND had to rethread one of the nuts, and now I'm back in business with the Comptech bushings and stock bracket. I'll do the ESB brackets another night, and will try gqchicago's advice about pinching the ESB bracket and and maybe drilling the slots a little wider, and pohljm's advice about using allen bolts. Thanks Ron A for giving this some visibility last night and for trancemission and ding069 for the other comments. Test drive tomorrow!!

 

You will need to squeeze the bracket once it is on the bar, if you dont when you push it onto the bar with the bushing it will spring it back out. I would not recommend elongating the holes as they are already very close to the upturned leg. What I did was file the washers so that there was a flat side that was positioned up against the upturned leg

 

Cool. Thanks!!