Shifter bushings?
08-08-2006, 11:02 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Shifter bushings?
I've got the comptech ss on my TL and am fixing up the wife's xb and found these shifter cable and base bushings for the xb that seem to make the shift even smoother and more positive. Found some for the RSX but not TL. Anyone know of any for the TL? Maybe corsport could make some for us?
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/view...=asc&&start=50
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=498
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/view...=asc&&start=50
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=498
08-09-2006, 02:06 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
They're very common in the VW world as well. I need to look and see where the shifter bracket mounts to the tranny. Hell, the RSX might work.
08-09-2006, 05:07 PM
#4
bTwix.
There are 2 bushings in question here (actually 4, 2 of each). One is the "cable ends" These are usually rubbery to soften the throw, but get replaced, usually with brass, as seen here:
The other is the bracket that holds the cable ends to the tranny. Obviosly, as force is transferred from the cables to the shift mechanism, the rubber mounted bracket gives slightly, again, the interest is in "smoothness and comfort". Those rubber bushings are usually replaced with metal spacers, seen here.
OK,
Soooo... Good news so far... It appear the RSX parts would map right over for us.
TL shift linkage:
Parts 10,11,12,13
RSX shift linkage:
Parts 11,12,13,14
The bushings have the same part number on both pages, which tells me the shift linkage bushings are the same, and thus the RSX bushings should work in our car? Wanna guinnea pig for us?
I'm still searching for the bracket bushings. I THINK they may replace the rubber bushings under the shift lever (part 4/5), which means they would work on our TL as well.
On my VW, the mount bracket (part #1 on both) was rubber float mounted, NOT the shifter... I'll call and ask where they go.
There are 2 bushings in question here (actually 4, 2 of each). One is the "cable ends" These are usually rubbery to soften the throw, but get replaced, usually with brass, as seen here:
The other is the bracket that holds the cable ends to the tranny. Obviosly, as force is transferred from the cables to the shift mechanism, the rubber mounted bracket gives slightly, again, the interest is in "smoothness and comfort". Those rubber bushings are usually replaced with metal spacers, seen here.
OK,
Soooo... Good news so far... It appear the RSX parts would map right over for us.
TL shift linkage:
Parts 10,11,12,13
RSX shift linkage:
Parts 11,12,13,14
The bushings have the same part number on both pages, which tells me the shift linkage bushings are the same, and thus the RSX bushings should work in our car? Wanna guinnea pig for us?
I'm still searching for the bracket bushings. I THINK they may replace the rubber bushings under the shift lever (part 4/5), which means they would work on our TL as well.
On my VW, the mount bracket (part #1 on both) was rubber float mounted, NOT the shifter... I'll call and ask where they go.
Originally Posted by bTwix
Yeah if the RSX ones fit that would be sweet!
08-10-2006, 04:11 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
I just ordered a set from CorSport... I'll let you kow how they fit...
Do you have the comptech ss?
Trending Topics
08-10-2006, 01:45 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Yep... and Skunk2 "weighted" shift knob... with Specialty Formulations MTL-P fluid
08-10-2006, 03:04 PM
#11
Originally Posted by bTwix
The Skunk2 only seems to come with 5sp markings, you find on for a 6sp?
MTL-P good stuff, can't compare with GM (never tried it). Skunk2 is a must with the SS.
08-13-2006, 10:45 AM
#14
Man of God.....
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Yep... and Skunk2 "weighted" shift knob... with Specialty Formulations MTL-P fluid
08-14-2006, 07:21 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Kennedy
When screwed all the way down (without using the lock not), it's about 1/2-1" shorter.
08-14-2006, 09:43 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by OMP Prelude
whats the diff between the two types of metal bushings and which kit is better? thanks guys
The cable bushings by far make the most difference.
Tai
CorSport
08-14-2006, 10:21 AM
#19
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Will the stock shift boot collar attach to the Skunk2 shift knob like the stock one does?
I used a small strip 3M doubles sided tape, and no more tink.
08-14-2006, 11:27 AM
#20
CorSport cables ends review...
OK guys, the feedback is really good on these.
First a little background data.
We'll use this exploded view to describe what these do:
This picture denotes the TL's shift linkage. As you can see, it's a cable actuated system, with three components (the shifter, shift cable, and shift linkage).
The shift linkage is hard mounted to the transmission and thus the engine. The engineering challenge is to isolate the shifter mechanism from engine and tranny's vibrations, yet provide firm and fluid force transsfer from the shifter, through the cable to the linkage. This is accomplished by "floating" the shifter and the cable. Floating?
Let's start with the cable. The transmission side of theends of the cable (parts 11,12,13,14) in the picture, have large round rubber bushing inside them. Go pop the hood, and look behind the battery box, on the tranmission (below the thermostat) and you can see them (they have cotter pins on top of them).
The rubber bushings serve to dampening the engine vibrations from being transferred into the cables and to the shifter (thus feeling vibration in your hand during shifting). The rubber also has a side effect of creating a "mush" in the shift. The compromise of luxury smoothness versus sport oriented feel.
This mushy feel is amplified by the installation of a short shifter. The Comptech SS simpy lengthens the lower shifter arm about 2 inches. The longer arm requires less "throw" to pull the cable the equivalent distance, but requires more force. Think of the simplest machine known to man, the lever. The Comptech moves the "fulcrum". Thus more force but less throw.
Since more force is required (described by those who have it as a "notchier/sportier feel", the mush can be felt in the system if you're looking for it.
Replacing the rubber hockey pucks in the cable ends with the CorSport machined solid brass bushings eliminates this mush, virtually completely. Shifting gears now is super smooth, and super snappy. That big ol TL V6 is so well balanced internally, I cannot feel a difference in vibrations transferred either. I think the big mushy rubber bushing are overkill, and only used so Honda doesn't have to source different cable end.
Installation is easy, 30 minute tops (much easier if you have a CAI, otherwise you have to pull the airbox).
Once you've located the cable ends and shifter mechanism, go at it.
BREAK the old cotter pins off. I wrestled with them for a while, but finally gave up trying to remove them properly. The CorSport kit comes with new pins, so there's no need. Once the pins are off, remove the end from the shift linkage shaft, take a screwdriver and stick it in the center of the bushing and pry the old bushing out of the cable end (it takes a bit of force). Pop the new solid brass bushing in, attach the C clip to lock it in, apply a little grease to the pin, and reinstall, using the new (easy to remove) pins.
Once installed:
These cable bushings should seriously come with the Short Shift kit, because the mush is amplified so. It's hard to describe the effect they have, but you can certainly tell the difference they make. With the SS kit, MTL-P fluid, skunk2 weighted knob, and these cable bushings... every smooth is crisp, smooth, fast, short, and tight. The word precision comes to mind, every shift is precise, and you can feel the positive engagement. It totally rocks. It's one of the best bang for you buck mods I've found.
The other bushings, seen here:
replace part number 5 and 7 in the above diagram. The shifter/cage are rubber float mounted to the body as well. This means they entire shifter cage flexes a little when you apply force/shift. If you have replaced the bigger/softer cable ends with the solid brass bushings, more flex will occur here, as it's the only place the system "gives".
I haven't confirmed these fit, so don't order them yet... but they appear to based on size. This would be the final step in firming up that shift.
That's all for now. If you have a SS, go spend the $30 on these bushings to tighten up that shift. It's absolutely well worth it.
First a little background data.
We'll use this exploded view to describe what these do:
This picture denotes the TL's shift linkage. As you can see, it's a cable actuated system, with three components (the shifter, shift cable, and shift linkage).
The shift linkage is hard mounted to the transmission and thus the engine. The engineering challenge is to isolate the shifter mechanism from engine and tranny's vibrations, yet provide firm and fluid force transsfer from the shifter, through the cable to the linkage. This is accomplished by "floating" the shifter and the cable. Floating?
Let's start with the cable. The transmission side of theends of the cable (parts 11,12,13,14) in the picture, have large round rubber bushing inside them. Go pop the hood, and look behind the battery box, on the tranmission (below the thermostat) and you can see them (they have cotter pins on top of them).
The rubber bushings serve to dampening the engine vibrations from being transferred into the cables and to the shifter (thus feeling vibration in your hand during shifting). The rubber also has a side effect of creating a "mush" in the shift. The compromise of luxury smoothness versus sport oriented feel.
This mushy feel is amplified by the installation of a short shifter. The Comptech SS simpy lengthens the lower shifter arm about 2 inches. The longer arm requires less "throw" to pull the cable the equivalent distance, but requires more force. Think of the simplest machine known to man, the lever. The Comptech moves the "fulcrum". Thus more force but less throw.
Since more force is required (described by those who have it as a "notchier/sportier feel", the mush can be felt in the system if you're looking for it.
Replacing the rubber hockey pucks in the cable ends with the CorSport machined solid brass bushings eliminates this mush, virtually completely. Shifting gears now is super smooth, and super snappy. That big ol TL V6 is so well balanced internally, I cannot feel a difference in vibrations transferred either. I think the big mushy rubber bushing are overkill, and only used so Honda doesn't have to source different cable end.
Installation is easy, 30 minute tops (much easier if you have a CAI, otherwise you have to pull the airbox).
Once you've located the cable ends and shifter mechanism, go at it.
BREAK the old cotter pins off. I wrestled with them for a while, but finally gave up trying to remove them properly. The CorSport kit comes with new pins, so there's no need. Once the pins are off, remove the end from the shift linkage shaft, take a screwdriver and stick it in the center of the bushing and pry the old bushing out of the cable end (it takes a bit of force). Pop the new solid brass bushing in, attach the C clip to lock it in, apply a little grease to the pin, and reinstall, using the new (easy to remove) pins.
Once installed:
These cable bushings should seriously come with the Short Shift kit, because the mush is amplified so. It's hard to describe the effect they have, but you can certainly tell the difference they make. With the SS kit, MTL-P fluid, skunk2 weighted knob, and these cable bushings... every smooth is crisp, smooth, fast, short, and tight. The word precision comes to mind, every shift is precise, and you can feel the positive engagement. It totally rocks. It's one of the best bang for you buck mods I've found.
The other bushings, seen here:
replace part number 5 and 7 in the above diagram. The shifter/cage are rubber float mounted to the body as well. This means they entire shifter cage flexes a little when you apply force/shift. If you have replaced the bigger/softer cable ends with the solid brass bushings, more flex will occur here, as it's the only place the system "gives".
I haven't confirmed these fit, so don't order them yet... but they appear to based on size. This would be the final step in firming up that shift.
That's all for now. If you have a SS, go spend the $30 on these bushings to tighten up that shift. It's absolutely well worth it.
08-14-2006, 02:22 PM
#22
Man of God.....
I agree, Nice work.... Is this true for the 2006 TL also?
What are the pics of? Cuz mine don't look like that...
I would like to do this though. Did I miss it? Did you put the part numbers in here or did you just want use to use the link in the first post? Again Thanks!
PS: I love my SS, but its a little Lucy-goosy soft.
What are the pics of? Cuz mine don't look like that...
I would like to do this though. Did I miss it? Did you put the part numbers in here or did you just want use to use the link in the first post? Again Thanks!
PS: I love my SS, but its a little Lucy-goosy soft.
08-14-2006, 03:39 PM
#23
Just to confirm, the 2004-2006 RSX bushing work in the 3rd Gen TL - 04-06. I installed them on my 2006 TL Sunday. Order these:
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
The picture is what the cable end looks like AFTER you install the new solid brass bushing, probably why you're confused.
Another 40 miles home from work, REALLY liking this mod. They should come with the SS kits.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
The picture is what the cable end looks like AFTER you install the new solid brass bushing, probably why you're confused.
Another 40 miles home from work, REALLY liking this mod. They should come with the SS kits.
Originally Posted by Spiritman
I agree, Nice work.... Is this true for the 2006 TL also?
What are the pics of? Cuz mine don't look like that...
I would like to do this though. Did I miss it? Did you put the part numbers in here or did you just want use to use the link in the first post? Again Thanks!
PS: I love my SS, but its a little Lucy-goosy soft.
What are the pics of? Cuz mine don't look like that...
I would like to do this though. Did I miss it? Did you put the part numbers in here or did you just want use to use the link in the first post? Again Thanks!
PS: I love my SS, but its a little Lucy-goosy soft.
08-14-2006, 08:53 PM
#27
Confirmed.
Base bushing don't fit... Don't bother ordering those.
The cable ends fit great.
Given the base bushings do very little compared to the cable ends (according to Tai), you'll hardly know you're missing them. You'll be more than happy once you get the cable ends installed to care.
I'll call and work with Tai to see if he'll machine out a few sets fo the TL being that he can now support our community a bit. He can order a float bushing an take measurements.
Base bushing don't fit... Don't bother ordering those.
The cable ends fit great.
Given the base bushings do very little compared to the cable ends (according to Tai), you'll hardly know you're missing them. You'll be more than happy once you get the cable ends installed to care.
I'll call and work with Tai to see if he'll machine out a few sets fo the TL being that he can now support our community a bit. He can order a float bushing an take measurements.
08-15-2006, 07:41 AM
#34
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Just to confirm, the 2004-2006 RSX bushing work in the 3rd Gen TL - 04-06. I installed them on my 2006 TL Sunday. Order these:
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
The picture is what the cable end looks like AFTER you install the new solid brass bushing, probably why you're confused.
Another 40 miles home from work, REALLY liking this mod. They should come with the SS kits.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497
The picture is what the cable end looks like AFTER you install the new solid brass bushing, probably why you're confused.
Another 40 miles home from work, REALLY liking this mod. They should come with the SS kits.
Nice write-up and appreciate your being the pioneer. This looks like an easy and inexpensive mod.
Will it improve the feel if you don't install an SS???
08-15-2006, 01:39 PM
#36
Man of God.....
Just got this email from them.... "We have a brand new supply of these in stock with better clips and a cool new anthracite finish. They will ship today"
08-22-2006, 02:14 AM
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by CorSport
Anyone get the new ones in yet?
tai
tai
08-22-2006, 08:14 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
So did I. I think the Brass looked better. This is probably cheaper for them to make..... What do you think?
Well, I thought the brass looked cheap IMO, I wanted something a bit more cool looking -- I dunno, lighter metals, better clips, I thought it was an improvement personally.
Tai