I think some of the best advice I got was slow in and fast out. Enter the corner fairly easy and get on the throttle sooner than the others.

In the beginning I was trail braking, ABS going nuts, and having the tail stepping out all the time. Now it's so much smoother. If you remember to go easy on the corner entry you will be safe and probably quicker too.

The only thing I don't like and will never like is passing. Not in my DD.

 

I agree and thought of the same thing. It would be nice to see if I'm smooth or if I need to constantly make corrections.

I actually have one video from inside the car but it didn't come out that well. I need to play around with the position/angle.

Passing is the fun part! Not sure how it is with theclub you go with but with BMW, we can only pass in certain sections and only with a point by. We even had drills where we practiced late passing (when you're off-line). And the most important part is if you don't feel comfortable passing, you can always waive it off.

 

I've got a dilema and need some feedback.

At first I was sold on Koni Yellow with H&R Springs (undecided on Sport vs. Race) but then I was thinking of just going with the H&R Street Perf. Coilovers. Here's my argument for each...

H&R Street: NO Adjustments. I know/think the Koni's would be better at the track but that's IF they're dialed in correctly. Do I really have the time and/or expertise to dial in the shocks? With the exception of NHMS, I'll be at most tracks for a maximum of two days so you're talking about a total of eight 20-30 minute runs. With the H&R, it's preset at the factory and they are be better than what I have now (A-spec). I'm still new to this and this would be one less thing to worry about. I can just focus on driving (and learning the track if it's new).

Koni: Adjustability - I can have the best of both worlds...firm at the track and softer on the street. Eventually when I get better, I'll want the adjustments and will have to learn to dial in the shock anyways so why not start now? Maybe it's not as hard to dial it in shock and I'm just overreacting?

I've gone back and forth so many times so I'm hoping someone can knock some sense into me!

 

I say get the Koni's or the neuspeed super cup kit that comes with the more adjustable strut and springs or a good adjustable coilover kit. Either way, your gonna be glad you got something with adjustability...

 

well if your torn between the too id say go with the koni's

 

Just a quick experience of mine with H&R... They're not always optimized from the factory as you would think. We installed one of their bars on a turbo Buick and it's a very dangerous oversteering SOB. No disclaimer, nothing. It makes the car go very straight under power but I would say cornering speed is reduced by 30% before the tail tries to get away. I have no idea how their spring setup for the TL is but don't rely on them.

You NEED the adjustability of the Konis. I had no idea what I was doing at first. I ended up learning the drag racing stuff many years ago which IMO is much easier than road racing. Once you get a feel for what adjusments have what effect it's easy. The first time out it's a little overwhelming but after that it's fun.

 

OK...I'm swayed back to the Koni's. Anyone have them matched up with H&R Sport springs? What do you guys think of this combo?

Matt - I know you mentioned before about pairing them up with my aspec springs but I may try to sell my aspec suspension. Think I'll be fine with the H&R springs with my NT-05's?

 

Very nice were is this located? I might have missed it in the previous posts

 

New Hampshire Motor Speedway, I believe.

 

bump for those who havent seen this

 

I figured I'd buy some things now before I spend it on something else. I'll be installing these between now and April. So far I've picked up the following:

- Koni Sport Shocks
- H&R Sport Springs
- Progress RSB
- Type S FSB
- Braile Battery
- Battery Relocation Kit
- CG Lock

I also plan on picking up a pair of Corbeau CR1's in February/March and then I'm finished (besides some of the TL Diet and Cooling Mod)...I think.

 

That's awesome!!

I'm looking forward to your results. Out of curiosity, is there enough meat in the TL-S FSB to drill another set of holes for adjustability?

 

^ I just ordered it the other day so I don't have it yet. I'll let you know when it arrives.

 

We are going to have to meet up one of these days and trade some secrets...lol. But on a serious note. Sounds like you have alot goin for the car. I have not swapped bars yet but I have been looking into it. I have a bathroom to redo so we will see how many presents the car gets this year. Hope to see the results on the bar and further adjustability. Like IHC mentioned.

 

H&R Sport Springs


Koni Sport


Braille Battery and a Battery Relocation Kit


Progress RSB


Type S FSB


IHC: You were asking if you can drill another hole in the FSB to make it adjustable...




Normally I love the winter and snow but Spring can't come soon enough!

 

If we can find a track between MI and RI, I'd be willing to go on a road trip!

 

Just speaking from things that I read from other Acurazine members -

The small Braille + Trunk mount = Fail

The issue seems to be that the long cables (from trunk to starter) produce too much resistance for the small Braille to handle.

If so, you might want to consider just mounting the small guy in the oem tray. The oem tray is how I mount my 11.5 lb Braille and never had an issue.

 

^^^Thanks for the info. Do you know what size Braille battery they used? Would it make a difference if I got the largest one?

Two main reasons why I wanted to mount it in the trunk is (1) easier access - i need to take off the supercharger to gain access to the battery and (2) to get rid of weight up front.

 

I've sent a few PMs to some members who've relocated their battery to the trunk. To anyone else who has relocated their battery, please feel free to post up (1) what battery you're using, (2) if you're using a one or two gauge wire and (3) any issues you're having.

Thanks in advance!

 

Same thing innac said the cables are too long and the resistance.. Had it happen to me.

 

I run the OEM battery in the trunk with no problems at all. Pretty sure I'm running 2 or 4 gauge wire. I ran a Braille battery on my track only STI and had it pretty much where the rear seat was with no problems. So maybe find another place in the cabin to put it and shorten up the cable length a bit. Just a thought.

 

I do not remember the size of the battery, but it was small I think.

I think Libert69 runs a full size battery in the trunk. And, I think KN_TL does too.

The battery size is the main factor along with the cable gauge (length being a given... from trunk to starter). A larger battery with more cranking amperage would be much more able to do the job.

Is it possible to wiggle your 15-lb Braille past the s/c and into the oem tray?

 

i always thought of somewhere along the firewall above the tranny area, kinda near the master cylinder, it would fit, but might be a pain to get to though
or another one is again against the firewall, but on the passenger side below the valve cover height, but surely be a bitch to get to though
or even up in the cowl panel, like where audi's like to mount them, only thing i see though, is that it be kinda high mounted
or here's one especially for you inaccurate, mount it where those weight dampeners use to be, next to the rear mount

but all three those locations would maintain short cables, and getting the weight behind the front axle

 

OP, what kind of diet stuff are you considering?

 

No can do...too small of an opening.

Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look and see if that may work.

So far I have the following:
- lightweight wheels (Volk RE30 at 16.5lbs ea)
- all trunk panels
- trunk lid weight
- floor mats
- engine bay panels
- glovebox plate
- kick panels under dash

Planning on:
- front and rear bumper
- Corbeau CR1 seats (brackets ordered - should be here in a month or so)
- subwoofer and rear speakers

On track days:
- removal of spare tire and accessories
- rear seat removal (didn't do it last year but will at the next track day)

Unknown:
- Koni + H&R vs. a-spec suspension

Pretty much using Inaccurate's diet list to see what I can to.

 

Is the tl a spare car for you? You might be better off picking up a miata for under 2k and make it track worthy if your doing it out of fun.


the tl seems to be a bit big and weighted for a track car IMO and you have to peak over the car to get your lines in order. Even hitting the candy strips and seeing the brake markers can be a pain.

Plus if you end up crashing the car it could hurt the wallet.. Unless your rich.

 

I've thought about picking up just a track car but didn't do it mainly because it would be a tough sell to the wife of getting a second car.

I know the TL isn't even close to being the ideal track car but I the fact that I'm tracking a DD.

My insurance would cover the car less my deductible and upgrades so it would hurt a little, but not a total loss.

 

I cant wait to see the results at the track.

Any idea on what speeds you were putting down at the track?

How much power are you pushing with the supercharger? Ever dyno/tune? Any idea of 1/4 mile times.

 

OP you can use a Group 51 Civic/Integra battery without any problems in the trunk location. It weighs only 28 lbs and gives 540 CA which is plenty enough to start your car. Length is 9", width is 5" and height is 9".

 

NHMS is a pretty small track. Top speed for me there is a little over 100. The fastest I've gone is probably in the high 130's at Monticello in NY. I'm estimating these #'s as I've got better places to look than the speedo.

The car puts down around 304whp on a Land and Sea dyno.

1/4 mile time sucks as a can't launch the car to save my life. (And I really don't want to abuse the clutch as I've already had to replace it once.) Haven't cracked into the 13's. Can't recall exactly my trap speed - it's posted somewhere on this forum - but I think is around 105???

Thanks Chuck. I currently have a Group 51 battery in the stock location. Do you have any experience with this battery in the trunk? I ask because the 15lb Braille actually has 574 CA.

 

Since the car is getting beat on with these track days, I assume I'll have to up the recommended maintenance on the timing belt, plugs, fluids, etc.

Does 75% seem like a reasonable number? Meaning instead of changing the timing belt at 105k miles, I would change it at around 79k miles (105 x .75).

Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

for us canadians it's recommended to change water pump and timing belt at 105 000km which is 65.6k miles. So I see no problem with you changing it a little before 105k miles.

 

Seems to be based upon temperature, not RPM.
But, I would replace it sooner anyway just for the peace of mind.

 

I did it when I did the turbo, not a bad idea if your beating on it.

 

Didn't know Acura recommended 105 km in Canada due to the extreme temperatures. Good to know.

I'm definitely going to perform the recommended maintenance sooner but I was wondering how much sooner. Would cutting the time/mileage by one third too conservative? I think I may just cut it by a quarter for now.

 

Depends on how often you hit the track. If you're only going like once every one or two months, I wouldn't worry much about it.

As a side note, why not get your upgrades insured as well? I remember hearing that it's not expensive at all to get them insured, it's something like an extra $10mth, well worth the peace of mind.

 

One little thing might throw in. Wheel spacers 20mm back 15mm front or larger could help the track width of the TL

 

Also is your car auto? You could find some brembo calipers from salvage TL 6M/T would help with braking late in corners.

 

I was actually looking to do a few autocross events. I have my first in the beginning of November since I just got the car. I tossed over 100 pounds off the car so far and still have to take out brake dust shields and the subframe dampener. (Thanks Inaccurate and after the winter I'm planning on putting some Falken 912s, removing 3rd cat and mid muffer. Anyone ever autocross before?

 

Never autocrossed but it's a good place to start. You'll outgrow it pretty quickly I bet and will look for a real track shortly.


Have fun!