RV6 V2 Precat Delete
08-30-2009, 11:02 PM
#41
practicing nihilist
glad the V2's were made thicker with deeper welds. I had a rear V1 fail with stock mounts and pretty conservative drop and suspension setting. Richie was very helpful every step of the way and I just got my replacement V2's from him. If you get 02 Sensor codes and that induction noise Innacurate described above gets noticeably louder, probably have a cracked weld.
this mod was the most noticeable punch in performance of the bolt-on's that I've done, although I did put the pulley on at the same time. Sound is virtually unnoticeable until you jump on the pedal and hit VTEC range, in which it sounds like you did something totally right. And you did trim some fat by getting rid of the stockers and heat shields and sich.
just read the DIY and don't punch a hole in your radiator!
this mod was the most noticeable punch in performance of the bolt-on's that I've done, although I did put the pulley on at the same time. Sound is virtually unnoticeable until you jump on the pedal and hit VTEC range, in which it sounds like you did something totally right. And you did trim some fat by getting rid of the stockers and heat shields and sich.
just read the DIY and don't punch a hole in your radiator!
08-31-2009, 09:55 AM
#43
Safety Car
Just a few comments and pics from my install this past weekend.
My rear cat came out easier from the bottom than top. Here is how I did the rear removal.
Remove these two shields.
Here is the opening thru the bottom.
Remove each clamshell (cat heat shield) by wiggling the clamshells thru the bottom opening.
With both clamshell removed, lower the cat thru the bottom opening. BTW, I did *not* remove the sensors from the cat until after the cat was out.
Here is a pic of the cardboard to protect the radiator from *minor* bumps.
EYE CANDY
My rear cat came out easier from the bottom than top. Here is how I did the rear removal.
Remove these two shields.
Here is the opening thru the bottom.
Remove each clamshell (cat heat shield) by wiggling the clamshells thru the bottom opening.
With both clamshell removed, lower the cat thru the bottom opening. BTW, I did *not* remove the sensors from the cat until after the cat was out.
Here is a pic of the cardboard to protect the radiator from *minor* bumps.
EYE CANDY
08-31-2009, 03:37 PM
#45
practicing nihilist
man, I didn't reinstall the half-shaft shield (1st picture in post above) when I took my V1's off a couple months ago. Never asked what anybody thought the repurcussions were.
Can't remember how I got it back on for the initial install but, I was time limited last time and we just couldn't snake that sucker back into place.
Can't remember how I got it back on for the initial install but, I was time limited last time and we just couldn't snake that sucker back into place.
08-31-2009, 03:51 PM
#46
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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I never ever put on a halfshaft heatshield after installing the precat deletes on anyones car... reason: the precat deletes get nowhere near as hot as the stock cats...
08-31-2009, 05:39 PM
#48
Safety Car
after a few days of running the car harder than "normal" (puaha), i can confidently say that the v2's are MUCH stronger. thanks for your work richie!
09-01-2009, 12:52 PM
#52
Safety Car
Mine sounds very similar to a 350Z/G35 coupe!
My setup =
Precat Deletes --> XLR8 Jpipe --> RV6 Race pipe --> OEM catback(with midmuffler delete)
09-01-2009, 04:34 PM
#53
Safety Car
lol
09-02-2009, 03:28 AM
#55
09-02-2009, 03:29 AM
#56
Safety Car
09-02-2009, 06:14 PM
#60
Safety Car
we're not really sure actually 
initially, we thought it was because of the innovative motor mounts that i was running, but then we found out via other members that the mounts didn't actually raise the engine (claimed to raise motor by 1/2 an inch) at all; raise = change in stress points. richie says that they were designed using stock motor mounts. all in all, no idea how i broke them 2 times
probably just too much stress? maybe from the exhaust (cat-backs) on rough roads around town (motor and precats don't move, but j-pipe down could be moving/causing too much stress???)
initially, we thought it was because of the innovative motor mounts that i was running, but then we found out via other members that the mounts didn't actually raise the engine (claimed to raise motor by 1/2 an inch) at all; raise = change in stress points. richie says that they were designed using stock motor mounts. all in all, no idea how i broke them 2 times
probably just too much stress? maybe from the exhaust (cat-backs) on rough roads around town (motor and precats don't move, but j-pipe down could be moving/causing too much stress???)
10-14-2009, 07:45 AM
#61
Three questions:
1. Is it pointless to bolt on these pre-cat deletes and not change out the stock cat? ( I have a XLR8 j-pipe, and res-cat back)
2. Do these bolt up to the XLR8 j-pipe?
3. Do I have a chance better than a snowflake in summer of passing an emmisions test at inspections, assuming I do leave the third cat? I live in NJ, if anyone else has tried it before.
These look like a great way to keep the engine a bit cooler, strap on some power, and deepen the exhaust note a bit. Plus the quality looks quite good.
1. Is it pointless to bolt on these pre-cat deletes and not change out the stock cat? ( I have a XLR8 j-pipe, and res-cat back)
2. Do these bolt up to the XLR8 j-pipe?
3. Do I have a chance better than a snowflake in summer of passing an emmisions test at inspections, assuming I do leave the third cat? I live in NJ, if anyone else has tried it before.
These look like a great way to keep the engine a bit cooler, strap on some power, and deepen the exhaust note a bit. Plus the quality looks quite good.
10-14-2009, 01:36 PM
#64
Safety Car
ohsixtl, please include what state you are in. AZ'ers from your state can help us to answer the question.
In general,
1) If the inspection does a sniffer test, you will fail as the sniffer smells your exhaust as you are pulling into the parking lot.
2) Many states now just check your computer codes (OBDII). If you have no codes (aka, check engine light), then you pass the inspection.
3) Richie's PCD (Pre Cat Deletes) will not cause a CEL (Check Engine Light).
In general,
1) If the inspection does a sniffer test, you will fail as the sniffer smells your exhaust as you are pulling into the parking lot.
2) Many states now just check your computer codes (OBDII). If you have no codes (aka, check engine light), then you pass the inspection.
3) Richie's PCD (Pre Cat Deletes) will not cause a CEL (Check Engine Light).
10-17-2009, 10:47 AM
#66
Three questions:
1. Is it pointless to bolt on these pre-cat deletes and not change out the stock cat? ( I have a XLR8 j-pipe, and res-cat back)
2. Do these bolt up to the XLR8 j-pipe?
3. Do I have a chance better than a snowflake in summer of passing an emmisions test at inspections, assuming I do leave the third cat? I live in NJ, if anyone else has tried it before.
1. Is it pointless to bolt on these pre-cat deletes and not change out the stock cat? ( I have a XLR8 j-pipe, and res-cat back)
2. Do these bolt up to the XLR8 j-pipe?
3. Do I have a chance better than a snowflake in summer of passing an emmisions test at inspections, assuming I do leave the third cat? I live in NJ, if anyone else has tried it before.
10-17-2009, 08:42 PM
#70
Safety Car
bump. it's been a while...still no problems with the rear pre-cat delete (V2). that extra mm is JUST what the rear pre-cat deletes needed. i still don't understand why the rear takes more pressure than the front pre-cat delete, but it works! GREAT PRODUCT!!!
it works! GREAT PRODUCT!!!
10-17-2009, 09:07 PM
#71
Safety Car
Metal will often break (crack) for other reasons than pressure (force induced stress). Vibration is one. Another is heat induced stress.
One possible scenario is that the front precat has ram-air and the radiator fan blowing on it to keep it cool. The rear cat is stuck in a confined area with no air circulation. The rear cat sees much high temps. Those higher temps mean moiré heat-induced stress. More prone to failure.
10-20-2009, 09:40 AM
#72
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