RV6 True Dual Exhaust for '04-'08 TL. Accepting deposits now
12-13-2011 | 10:09 PM
#1241
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 9
From: Central PA
I get the feeling that the 3GTL exhaust is a very low priority for Richie.
From what I understand, they did not make much (if any) money on the first batch and will probably not make much more with the second. I'm sure he'd have no problem selling every one he makes at first batch prices, but if he bumps the price enough for it to be worthwhile, he may not.
Also, this is at best a four year old car.
From what I understand, they did not make much (if any) money on the first batch and will probably not make much more with the second. I'm sure he'd have no problem selling every one he makes at first batch prices, but if he bumps the price enough for it to be worthwhile, he may not.
Also, this is at best a four year old car.
Those of us that want the RV6 Quads will surely pay a slight premium over the first batch, especially knowing now that the first group of owners have reported their feelings (largely positive) on the exhaust and Ritchie himself has been able to streamline and/or improve the product and the manufacturing process.
With the "ricer" reputation these cars are beginning to get here on the boards I would think now would be the time for the second batch... might be a few more teenagers with their parents credit cards around nowadays...
12-13-2011 | 10:19 PM
#1242
Do I understand this correctly ? = With the RV6 dual exhaust and long V3 J-pipe, with the 2 stock cats still in tact, the 3rd cat is deleted, and adds +36WHP. I finally found a diagram of the full exhaust.
Sorry for so many questions, just trying to picture how this set-up is 100%.
I also would want to pass emissions.
Thanks Brothers and sisters
Sorry for so many questions, just trying to picture how this set-up is 100%.
I also would want to pass emissions.
Thanks Brothers and sisters
12-13-2011 | 11:12 PM
#1243
I don't have emissions but I left the stock cats in and wish I would have gotten the HFPC's for sure.
I know I would pass emissions if needed though. And I can only go by butt dyno but I felt an immediate response in throttle and power feels way smoother throughout entire RPM range.
That is just a bonus to the excellent sound and tone that comes with this exhaust. And its dead sexy.
I am no way tied in with Richie or a fan boy. I didn't even get mine from him. Got it from someone who bought it and ended up not being able to use it. Best decision and oppurtunity I have had in a while.
Just a satisfied customer.
I know I would pass emissions if needed though. And I can only go by butt dyno but I felt an immediate response in throttle and power feels way smoother throughout entire RPM range.
That is just a bonus to the excellent sound and tone that comes with this exhaust. And its dead sexy.
I am no way tied in with Richie or a fan boy. I didn't even get mine from him. Got it from someone who bought it and ended up not being able to use it. Best decision and oppurtunity I have had in a while.
Just a satisfied customer.
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-14-2011)
12-13-2011 | 11:18 PM
#1244
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
Do I understand this correctly ? = With the RV6 dual exhaust and long V3 J-pipe, with the 2 stock cats still in tact, the 3rd cat is deleted, and adds +36WHP. I finally found a diagram of the full exhaust.
Sorry for so many questions, just trying to picture how this set-up is 100%.
I also would want to pass emissions.
Thanks Brothers and sisters
Sorry for so many questions, just trying to picture how this set-up is 100%.
I also would want to pass emissions.
Thanks Brothers and sisters
1> Mess with either of the stock cats and you WONT clear emissions....you will clear safety as the PCD's come with defoulers and they will not light up your CEL....however, they might catch you on the visual inspection and fail you....
2> add from jpipe and catback, you will clear emissions + safety + etc....i bet my car that this set up WILL NOT add 36whp...
3> add PCD's to get max gains....you will be close to 25-28whp with the full setup !!!
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 07:55 AM
#1245
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
Here is what I am planning to do for the Acurazine community... When I go to pick up my new wheels, I plan on getting my car on the DYNO so that we can see exactly what the numbers are for the complete RV-6 exhaust (HFPC, V3 J-Pipe, & TD Exhaust).
I hope my plan works out
I'll keep you posted.
I hope my plan works out
I'll keep you posted.
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 08:02 AM
#1246
^are you 6MT or auto?
it'll be hard to tell what the full RV6 line up did to your car without a base line.
you should get a friend with the same car(stock) as you to dyno and compare.
if you get a dyno that is optimistic and only dyno yourself, you'll be seeing higher gains than what the RV6 line up truely gave you.
Try to get a dynojet!!!
it'll be hard to tell what the full RV6 line up did to your car without a base line.
you should get a friend with the same car(stock) as you to dyno and compare.
if you get a dyno that is optimistic and only dyno yourself, you'll be seeing higher gains than what the RV6 line up truely gave you.
Try to get a dynojet!!!
12-14-2011 | 09:05 AM
#1247
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
^are you 6MT or auto?
it'll be hard to tell what the full RV6 line up did to your car without a base line.
you should get a friend with the same car(stock) as you to dyno and compare.
if you get a dyno that is optimistic and only dyno yourself, you'll be seeing higher gains than what the RV6 line up truely gave you.
Try to get a dynojet!!!
it'll be hard to tell what the full RV6 line up did to your car without a base line.
you should get a friend with the same car(stock) as you to dyno and compare.
if you get a dyno that is optimistic and only dyno yourself, you'll be seeing higher gains than what the RV6 line up truely gave you.
Try to get a dynojet!!!
I know that there are other stock Type-S dyno's on Acurazine. I also understand that each dyno will be a little different and that in a perfect world I could just tell my friend to come on down and dyno his car with me... but I'm sure that isn't going to happen.
I guess I'll just be getting the dyno done for my own knowledge on what numbers my car is putting out and to share my findings
Im not sure what type of dyno is at the guys shop but I just figured that it would be fun...
12-14-2011 | 10:13 AM
#1249
So a automatic Type-S has about 250whp stock. On the other posts Richie said the car tested was an 05 TL automatic and gained +36whp, and a manual or Auto Type-S will gain more.
07-08 Type-S stock auto Type-S is about 250whp + 40whp with RV6 3V j-pipe and RV6 dual exhaust= 290whp. That would be awesome
I don't have a TL in my driveway right now, so please give me some slack.
The TL has 3 cats ? Right ? By leaving the 2 OEM cats on the engine alone, putting in the RV6 V3 Long tube J-pipe and the RV6 true dual exhaust, the 2005 TL with the automatic gained +36whp ? And that set-up deleted the third cat. IS THIS CORRECT ?
I do not want to spend a FORTUNE on low flow cats, etc. Just the J-Pipe and dual exhaust for either a 2007 or 2008 Type-S.
Thankyou for your patience with me
Merry Christmas
07-08 Type-S stock auto Type-S is about 250whp + 40whp with RV6 3V j-pipe and RV6 dual exhaust= 290whp. That would be awesome
I don't have a TL in my driveway right now, so please give me some slack.
The TL has 3 cats ? Right ? By leaving the 2 OEM cats on the engine alone, putting in the RV6 V3 Long tube J-pipe and the RV6 true dual exhaust, the 2005 TL with the automatic gained +36whp ? And that set-up deleted the third cat. IS THIS CORRECT ?
I do not want to spend a FORTUNE on low flow cats, etc. Just the J-Pipe and dual exhaust for either a 2007 or 2008 Type-S.
Thankyou for your patience with me
Merry Christmas
12-14-2011 | 10:13 AM
#1250
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
Why would you guess 250 hp? A (new) stock Type-S has puts out 286 hp. I hope with the mods that I have I will be over what an unmodified car has. Oh man, maybe I shouldn't get the dyno... I don't want to have to high of expectations and then be completely dissapointed
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 10:16 AM
#1251
Why would you guess 250 hp? A (new) stock Type-S has puts out 286 hp. I hope with the mods that I have I will be over what an unmodified car has. Oh man, maybe I shouldn't get the dyno... I don't want to have to high of expectations and then be completely dissapointed
thats the same wheel horse power as my 6MT 06 base TL.
I have PCD's and jpipe, and put down 241HP to the wheels.
with a catback, I expect to gain about 10HP.
to bring me up to about 250hp, where I expect you to be. which also coincides to the other type-s auto dynos.
the type-s 6MT puts down about 250 wheel horse power STOCK!
Last edited by justnspace; 12-14-2011 at 10:18 AM.
12-14-2011 | 10:57 AM
#1252
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
31whp becomes 34 becomes 36 becomes 40....now some else who reads this will say ohhh it gains you 45whp.....
think about this by doing exhaust mods YOU ARE NOT MAKING POWER....you are clearing the restriction and hence increasing the flow....
the ECU keeps the AFR (air fuel ratio) constant....the compression rate is constant....so how are you making more power ?
A fully bolted on Type S MT....all possible mods....was dynoed at 293whp (if my memory serves me right) on a kinda optimistic (by 2-5hp dyno).....I dont know Morriseys mods exactly and cant tell exactly what he will dyno at.....but he would be around 270-275whp.....a stock type s dyno's at 235-240 for AT and 250 for MT....
so think about it and please please please stop inflating the numbers....
Last edited by swoosh; 12-14-2011 at 10:59 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by swoosh:
12-14-2011 | 10:57 AM
#1253
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
the auto type-s puts down about 230hp to the wheels.
thats the same wheel horse power as my 6MT 06 base TL.
I have PCD's and jpipe, and put down 241HP to the wheels.
with a catback, I expect to gain about 10HP.
to bring me up to about 250hp, where I expect you to be. which also coincides to the other type-s auto dynos.
the type-s 6MT puts down about 250 wheel horse power STOCK!
thats the same wheel horse power as my 6MT 06 base TL.
I have PCD's and jpipe, and put down 241HP to the wheels.
with a catback, I expect to gain about 10HP.
to bring me up to about 250hp, where I expect you to be. which also coincides to the other type-s auto dynos.
the type-s 6MT puts down about 250 wheel horse power STOCK!
All this time this is what I believed:
Updated significantly for 2007, Acura's best-selling sports sedan changes little in 2008. The base TL comes with a 258-horsepower, 3.2-liter V-6 engine, and the performance-oriented Type-S edition has a 286-hp, 3.5-liter V-6.
Acura's 3.2-liter V-6 produces 258 hp at 6,200 rpm and 233 pounds-feet of torque at 5,000 rpm. In the TL Type-S, the 3.5-liter V-6 from Acura's larger RL sedan makes 286 hp at 6,200 rpm and 256 pounds-feet of torque at 5,000 rpm. The TL's five-speed Sequential SportShift automatic transmission permits manual gear changes.
I guess I will find out at the Dyno. Either way, the RV-6 butt dyno make me super happy
Last edited by Morrissey25; 12-14-2011 at 11:01 AM.
12-14-2011 | 11:05 AM
#1254
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
this is how horse power talk gets me sick....
31whp becomes 34 becomes 36 becomes 40....now some else who reads this will say ohhh it gains you 45whp.....
think about this by doing exhaust mods YOU ARE NOT MAKING POWER....you are clearing the restriction and hence increasing the flow....
the ECU keeps the AFR (air fuel ratio) constant....the compression rate is constant....so how are you making more power ?
A fully bolted on Type S MT....all possible mods....was dynoed at 293whp (if my memory serves me right) on a kinda optimistic (by 2-5hp dyno).....I dont know Morriseys mods exactly and cant tell exactly what he will dyno at.....but he would be around 270-275whp.....a stock type s dyno's at 235-240 for AT and 250 for MT....
so think about it and please please please stop inflating the numbers....
31whp becomes 34 becomes 36 becomes 40....now some else who reads this will say ohhh it gains you 45whp.....
think about this by doing exhaust mods YOU ARE NOT MAKING POWER....you are clearing the restriction and hence increasing the flow....
the ECU keeps the AFR (air fuel ratio) constant....the compression rate is constant....so how are you making more power ?
A fully bolted on Type S MT....all possible mods....was dynoed at 293whp (if my memory serves me right) on a kinda optimistic (by 2-5hp dyno).....I dont know Morriseys mods exactly and cant tell exactly what he will dyno at.....but he would be around 270-275whp.....a stock type s dyno's at 235-240 for AT and 250 for MT....
so think about it and please please please stop inflating the numbers....
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 11:08 AM
#1255
This is why I'll just go and get the Dyno done. That way we will have a better idea and then we can stop inflating the numbers so much. Besides, I don't understand HP so much. I don't fully understand what it means when it is said hp to the wheels. In this way I am definitely a noob
this is what the engine makes without any drive train losses.
the automatic tranny saps power from the engine.
tires/wheels sap power from the engine. etc.
when you get the car on the dyno, the dyno measures the power at the wheels NOT at the crank.
this is why you see a lower number than the claimed 285HP.
If you noticed, I have put the word "ABOUT" in every one of my guesses of HP.
you'll be about 250 wheel horsepower, give or take.
the auto type-s and 6MT base TL's wont ever break 300HP unless F/I.
we can get super close to that magic 300 tho.
Last edited by justnspace; 12-14-2011 at 11:12 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Morrissey25 (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 11:11 AM
#1256
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ let me explain....
your engine produces horsepower....and hence its called "at the crank"....acura always writes engine horsepower....258 for Base and 280something for the Type S....
The engine is not able to put all this horsepower to the ground coz of:
1> weight
2> drive train loss
3> etc
thats why if you reduce the weight of your car, you will seem quicker (its the same hp but you will be quicker)....
usual losses for AT are 20-22%....so the 258hp Base AT puts down 210hp to the wheels....
usual losses for MT are 12-15%....so the 258hp Base MT puts down 225hp to the wheels....
I hope that makes sense
PS: Justn beat me to it LOL....
your engine produces horsepower....and hence its called "at the crank"....acura always writes engine horsepower....258 for Base and 280something for the Type S....
The engine is not able to put all this horsepower to the ground coz of:
1> weight
2> drive train loss
3> etc
thats why if you reduce the weight of your car, you will seem quicker (its the same hp but you will be quicker)....
usual losses for AT are 20-22%....so the 258hp Base AT puts down 210hp to the wheels....
usual losses for MT are 12-15%....so the 258hp Base MT puts down 225hp to the wheels....
I hope that makes sense
PS: Justn beat me to it LOL....
The following 2 users liked this post by swoosh:
justnspace (12-14-2011),
Morrissey25 (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 11:16 AM
#1257
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
fully bolted on + tune, the slowest (Base 5AT) and the fastest (Type S 6MT) will break the 300whp barrier....
Plus do some cam + head work....you will be sitting at 330whp on a Base 5AT....
12-14-2011 | 11:19 AM
#1258
and holy torque steer batman! my car gets squiggly at 240hp....imagine all 330 hp driving the front wheels!
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 11:25 AM
#1259
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ a lot of work yessssss, money no...
bisi cam + head work = $1500-2000 and it will yield you an easy 40-45whp....so if you see dollar for dollar....you gain more....
but if you have the work done outside, then ur fucked....you will end up spending an easy 3-4K on the same....
and talk about torque steer....i drove my last late last night and i was spinning 2nd even at 4K rpm
bisi cam + head work = $1500-2000 and it will yield you an easy 40-45whp....so if you see dollar for dollar....you gain more....
but if you have the work done outside, then ur fucked....you will end up spending an easy 3-4K on the same....
and talk about torque steer....i drove my last late last night and i was spinning 2nd even at 4K rpm
12-14-2011 | 12:58 PM
#1260
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 182
From: Minnesota
People call those numbers ricer math, but your new... you should educate yourself more and visit this forum a bit much. I see that this forum is much a younger crowd compared to other TL's on the road that are much older than us. Very few your age will think like the once younger crowd that assumed hp was what they advertised. It's a selling product. People love to see numbers, thats what they want you to see when you have to dig in deeper what it truely makes. But back on topic.
TO the creator of the True Dual RV6 Exhaust:
Can you make me a special exhaust but with 4.5 inch quads like those found on the 09+ GTR? I do see that the ones above is 4 inch, but I would like so that we TL have 1 muffler instead of 2...is that possible?
Just something I been thinking of doing and the sounding of the exhaust just got me drooling.
TO the creator of the True Dual RV6 Exhaust:
Can you make me a special exhaust but with 4.5 inch quads like those found on the 09+ GTR? I do see that the ones above is 4 inch, but I would like so that we TL have 1 muffler instead of 2...is that possible?
Just something I been thinking of doing and the sounding of the exhaust just got me drooling.
12-14-2011 | 02:22 PM
#1262
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
People call those numbers ricer math, but your new... you should educate yourself more and visit this forum a bit much. I see that this forum is much a younger crowd compared to other TL's on the road that are much older than us. Very few your age will think like the once younger crowd that assumed hp was what they advertised. It's a selling product. People love to see numbers, thats what they want you to see when you have to dig in deeper what it truely makes.
Either way, I think that a 4.5 pipe would be a bit much for our cars. If that is what you want then buy the exhaust and put your own tips on it. Good luck
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 05:03 PM
#1263
^^^ let me explain....
your engine produces horsepower....and hence its called "at the crank"....acura always writes engine horsepower....258 for Base and 280something for the Type S....
The engine is not able to put all this horsepower to the ground coz of:
1> weight
2> drive train loss
3> etc
thats why if you reduce the weight of your car, you will seem quicker (its the same hp but you will be quicker)....
usual losses for AT are 20-22%....so the 258hp Base AT puts down 210hp to the wheels....
usual losses for MT are 12-15%....so the 258hp Base MT puts down 225hp to the wheels....
I hope that makes sense
PS: Justn beat me to it LOL....
your engine produces horsepower....and hence its called "at the crank"....acura always writes engine horsepower....258 for Base and 280something for the Type S....
The engine is not able to put all this horsepower to the ground coz of:
1> weight
2> drive train loss
3> etc
thats why if you reduce the weight of your car, you will seem quicker (its the same hp but you will be quicker)....
usual losses for AT are 20-22%....so the 258hp Base AT puts down 210hp to the wheels....
usual losses for MT are 12-15%....so the 258hp Base MT puts down 225hp to the wheels....
I hope that makes sense
PS: Justn beat me to it LOL....
Weight of wheels, condition of wheel bearings, axle angles, weight of flywheel and how smooth that whole system runs depends on how much power you will lose from the crank to the ground.
Oil squirting on the crank shaft will even equate to some HP loss. So overfilling oil is not good either. It can get super complicated in figuring drivetrain losses in a big picture.
And also IMO a 320 hp N/A TL is going to feel just as good as a 450 hp FI TL. Actually better because done right you will have a linear power band that will keep making power from start to finish without lag.
And this ties into this thread because without a well flowing exhaust to keep enough back pressure without being too restrictive is the number 1 thing you can do to take some stress off your engine.
If it can't get out then you can't force any more in.
The following 2 users liked this post by sauceja:
justnspace (12-14-2011),
Morrissey25 (12-14-2011)
12-14-2011 | 09:58 PM
#1264
Cruisin'
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, NY
I have an automatic Type-S.
I know that there are other stock Type-S dyno's on Acurazine. I also understand that each dyno will be a little different and that in a perfect world I could just tell my friend to come on down and dyno his car with me... but I'm sure that isn't going to happen.
I guess I'll just be getting the dyno done for my own knowledge on what numbers my car is putting out and to share my findings Im not sure what type of dyno is at the guys shop but I just figured that it would be fun...
I know that there are other stock Type-S dyno's on Acurazine. I also understand that each dyno will be a little different and that in a perfect world I could just tell my friend to come on down and dyno his car with me... but I'm sure that isn't going to happen.
I guess I'll just be getting the dyno done for my own knowledge on what numbers my car is putting out and to share my findings
Im not sure what type of dyno is at the guys shop but I just figured that it would be fun...
12-15-2011 | 08:16 AM
#1266
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 182
From: Minnesota
That I can do, no biggie.
Ricer math is like this. For example, my car is advertised 160hp. An intake is advertised 8hp. My car is now 168hp. Great, now off to header. Advertised 12hp, my car is now 180hp. Now exhaust...10hp claimed!! I'm now 190hp! Off to some intake manifold --> claim 15hp! I have 205hp! You get where I'm going. Adding HP parts plus factory HP claim does not give you 205hp. At the very best, your car with all those parts will net you 160whp at best tuned. For crank Hp will be close to 176hp. I wasn't attacking anyone or referring to anyone.
Ricer math is like this. For example, my car is advertised 160hp. An intake is advertised 8hp. My car is now 168hp. Great, now off to header. Advertised 12hp, my car is now 180hp. Now exhaust...10hp claimed!! I'm now 190hp! Off to some intake manifold --> claim 15hp! I have 205hp! You get where I'm going. Adding HP parts plus factory HP claim does not give you 205hp. At the very best, your car with all those parts will net you 160whp at best tuned. For crank Hp will be close to 176hp. I wasn't attacking anyone or referring to anyone.
12-15-2011 | 01:18 PM
#1267
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 836
Likes: 80
From: The Bean
^^^ a lot of work yessssss, money no...
bisi cam + head work = $1500-2000 and it will yield you an easy 40-45whp....so if you see dollar for dollar....you gain more....
but if you have the work done outside, then ur fucked....you will end up spending an easy 3-4K on the same....
and talk about torque steer....i drove my last late last night and i was spinning 2nd even at 4K rpm
bisi cam + head work = $1500-2000 and it will yield you an easy 40-45whp....so if you see dollar for dollar....you gain more....
but if you have the work done outside, then ur fucked....you will end up spending an easy 3-4K on the same....
and talk about torque steer....i drove my last late last night and i was spinning 2nd even at 4K rpm
+1 On what he said!!! 300whp is very attainable, thanks to JnR ECU and Bisi cams!!!
12-15-2011 | 05:08 PM
#1268
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
And IMO these percentages are low. At least lower than what older cars lost. it was more like 32% loss on an A/T.
Weight of wheels, condition of wheel bearings, axle angles, weight of flywheel and how smooth that whole system runs depends on how much power you will lose from the crank to the ground.
Oil squirting on the crank shaft will even equate to some HP loss. So overfilling oil is not good either. It can get super complicated in figuring drivetrain losses in a big picture.
And also IMO a 320 hp N/A TL is going to feel just as good as a 450 hp FI TL. Actually better because done right you will have a linear power band that will keep making power from start to finish without lag.
And this ties into this thread because without a well flowing exhaust to keep enough back pressure without being too restrictive is the number 1 thing you can do to take some stress off your engine.
If it can't get out then you can't force any more in.
Weight of wheels, condition of wheel bearings, axle angles, weight of flywheel and how smooth that whole system runs depends on how much power you will lose from the crank to the ground.
Oil squirting on the crank shaft will even equate to some HP loss. So overfilling oil is not good either. It can get super complicated in figuring drivetrain losses in a big picture.
And also IMO a 320 hp N/A TL is going to feel just as good as a 450 hp FI TL. Actually better because done right you will have a linear power band that will keep making power from start to finish without lag.
And this ties into this thread because without a well flowing exhaust to keep enough back pressure without being too restrictive is the number 1 thing you can do to take some stress off your engine.
If it can't get out then you can't force any more in.
about 32% LOSS on AT....i highly disagree....
a bone stock 5AT type s is rated at 285hp at the crank and dynos have shown it to be ~235hp to the wheels....
20% of 285 is 57....
285-57=228....
According to you 32% (lets take 30 for easier calculations)
30% of 285 is 85.5
285-85.5 = 199.5
which is insane....
i agree on the drivetrain losses....more oil + thicker oil = more loss....
well we can go back and forth about this....
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (12-15-2011)
12-15-2011 | 05:35 PM
#1269
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,022
Likes: 435
From: Houston, Texas
this is how horse power talk gets me sick....
31whp becomes 34 becomes 36 becomes 40....now some else who reads this will say ohhh it gains you 45whp.....
think about this by doing exhaust mods YOU ARE NOT MAKING POWER....you are clearing the restriction and hence increasing the flow....
the ECU keeps the AFR (air fuel ratio) constant....the compression rate is constant....so how are you making more power ?
A fully bolted on Type S MT....all possible mods....was dynoed at 293whp (if my memory serves me right) on a kinda optimistic (by 2-5hp dyno).....I dont know Morriseys mods exactly and cant tell exactly what he will dyno at.....but he would be around 270-275whp.....a stock type s dyno's at 235-240 for AT and 250 for MT....
so think about it and please please please stop inflating the numbers....
31whp becomes 34 becomes 36 becomes 40....now some else who reads this will say ohhh it gains you 45whp.....
think about this by doing exhaust mods YOU ARE NOT MAKING POWER....you are clearing the restriction and hence increasing the flow....
the ECU keeps the AFR (air fuel ratio) constant....the compression rate is constant....so how are you making more power ?
A fully bolted on Type S MT....all possible mods....was dynoed at 293whp (if my memory serves me right) on a kinda optimistic (by 2-5hp dyno).....I dont know Morriseys mods exactly and cant tell exactly what he will dyno at.....but he would be around 270-275whp.....a stock type s dyno's at 235-240 for AT and 250 for MT....
so think about it and please please please stop inflating the numbers....
Blackura dynoed 300 whp missing 1 mod or two.
Last edited by TheChamp531; 12-15-2011 at 05:37 PM.
12-15-2011 | 05:35 PM
#1270
^^^ Much more accurate. I read a test on the 2007 Honda Civic Si that proved to loose only 7% with its slick 6-speed manual and posi unit. Thats awesome.
Acura Manual is probably about 13% loss so a 6-speed 08 Type-S would be about 286 crank hp x .87= 248whp. 38hp loss from crank to tires.
The auto 08 Type-S looses about 17%. 286 crank hp x .83%= 237whp. 49hp loss.
I won't argue.
Take it or leave it.
Merry Christmas
Acura Manual is probably about 13% loss so a 6-speed 08 Type-S would be about 286 crank hp x .87= 248whp. 38hp loss from crank to tires.
The auto 08 Type-S looses about 17%. 286 crank hp x .83%= 237whp. 49hp loss.
I won't argue.
Take it or leave it.
Merry Christmas
12-15-2011 | 05:41 PM
#1271
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,022
Likes: 435
From: Houston, Texas
Why is there a argument about WHP anyways?
WHP is just a number thrown to understand how fast you will perform in a 1/4, 1/2, and mile run.
WHP is based on so many conditions and weight factors that is preposterous to even worry about the number. Only thing you should worry about is if you're going to be happy with the purchase and the butt dyno you would feel.
Really want a true WHP number? Run a 1/4th.
WHP is just a number thrown to understand how fast you will perform in a 1/4, 1/2, and mile run.
WHP is based on so many conditions and weight factors that is preposterous to even worry about the number. Only thing you should worry about is if you're going to be happy with the purchase and the butt dyno you would feel.
Really want a true WHP number? Run a 1/4th.
12-16-2011 | 07:43 AM
#1275
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 4
From: Marysville, CA
Introducing the RV6 true dual exhaust system for the 3rd gen TL. People have been asking for a RV6 exhaust for a while now. We wanted to make something different that would set our system apart from the other exhaust systems out there. After studying many exhaust systems we decided go with a true dual exhaust. By connecting a merge collector directly to the V3 Jpipe we create an X-pipe. An X-pipe keeps the exhaust pressure and pulses equalized. Therefore improving scavenging which clears the cylinders more efficiently of exhaust gases and helps with more complete combustion and flow. When combine with a V3 jpipe this exhaust produces amazing gains and sound.
Dyno tests were performed on an unmodified 05 automatic base TL with 60k miles using an AWD Mustang dyno. We choose this vehicle because it is most common among the community. Higher gains are to be expected with the 6 speeds and TL-s.
Alone this exhaust produces some impressive numbers with good gains in the mid range and top end. When paired with the V3 Jpipe the numbers are simply amazing with impressive gains throughout the entire powerband. Especially in the much needed low end and mid range.
Stock TL with RV6 Exhaust
20 WHP peak gained
15 WTQ peak gained
*MOD EDIT*
Stock TL with RV6 Exhaust and V3 Jpipe
16 WHP peak gained
19 WTQ peak gained
*MOD EDIT** - requested by Richie.
Features:
2.25" Dual Piping
2.5" Inlet
Mandrel bends
TIG welded
100% Stainless 304 construction
Resonator
This exhaust will be offered in both a quad and base setup. Pictures of the base setup will be posted shortly. For the quad system we selected a 4” tapered double wall tips.
Pricing for the RV6 True dual exhaust will start at $1199 + shipping for the base and $1299 + shipping for the quads. If you are purchasing the exhaust setup with a V3 Jpipe or purchased the V3 in the past we will take $100 off your order.
Due to the complexity and cost of producing this system. They will only be produced in small limited batches. We are now taking $200 deposits for the first batch. Current ETA is around the end of August.
Deposit here.
www.rv6-p.com
List
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y30rBn707R0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBE1h...eature=channel
Dyno tests were performed on an unmodified 05 automatic base TL with 60k miles using an AWD Mustang dyno. We choose this vehicle because it is most common among the community. Higher gains are to be expected with the 6 speeds and TL-s.
Alone this exhaust produces some impressive numbers with good gains in the mid range and top end. When paired with the V3 Jpipe the numbers are simply amazing with impressive gains throughout the entire powerband. Especially in the much needed low end and mid range.
Stock TL with RV6 Exhaust
20 WHP peak gained
15 WTQ peak gained
*MOD EDIT*
Stock TL with RV6 Exhaust and V3 Jpipe
16 WHP peak gained
19 WTQ peak gained
*MOD EDIT** - requested by Richie.
Features:
2.25" Dual Piping
2.5" Inlet
Mandrel bends
TIG welded
100% Stainless 304 construction
Resonator
This exhaust will be offered in both a quad and base setup. Pictures of the base setup will be posted shortly. For the quad system we selected a 4” tapered double wall tips.
Pricing for the RV6 True dual exhaust will start at $1199 + shipping for the base and $1299 + shipping for the quads. If you are purchasing the exhaust setup with a V3 Jpipe or purchased the V3 in the past we will take $100 off your order.
Due to the complexity and cost of producing this system. They will only be produced in small limited batches. We are now taking $200 deposits for the first batch. Current ETA is around the end of August.
Deposit here.
www.rv6-p.com
List
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y30rBn707R0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBE1h...eature=channel
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
DUMB W1TH 1T (12-17-2011),
Morrissey25 (12-16-2011)
12-16-2011 | 09:32 AM
#1278
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 132
From: New Windsor, NY
12-16-2011 | 08:46 PM
#1280
I was referring to older cars. Late 70's to mid 80's.
With newer technology became smoother running transmissions, better aligned rotating assemblies, harmonically balanced, better fluids, shaft and gear metallurgy all equate into a 20% loss over a 32% and thats on an automatic.
I was in no way starting an argument.
Besides HP isn't even a number. Its the end of an equation resulting from TQ x rpm / 5252 = HP
So that car manufactures can say hey look at me, BIG numbers.
Just like Toyota can claim more mpg per manufacture but they don't tell you that they recommend 91 octane on every vehicle. 87 won't get you the same mpg.
Its just numbers.
MPH and Time in a 1/4 mile is the most accurate way to tell HP due to all dynos and SAE corrections being so different. A dyno is a tuning tool and thats basically it.
With newer technology became smoother running transmissions, better aligned rotating assemblies, harmonically balanced, better fluids, shaft and gear metallurgy all equate into a 20% loss over a 32% and thats on an automatic.
I was in no way starting an argument.
Besides HP isn't even a number. Its the end of an equation resulting from TQ x rpm / 5252 = HP
So that car manufactures can say hey look at me, BIG numbers.
Just like Toyota can claim more mpg per manufacture but they don't tell you that they recommend 91 octane on every vehicle. 87 won't get you the same mpg.
Its just numbers.
MPH and Time in a 1/4 mile is the most accurate way to tell HP due to all dynos and SAE corrections being so different. A dyno is a tuning tool and thats basically it.