i am eventually going to buy an extra long block and begin to build it with full forged parts and a built valvetrain including cams...i am at 350fwp now @4psi but thats the max I will see with my current parts...i wonder if port and polishing the blower will help at all?

 

I honestly think the stock internaled TL will survive 400whp with good tuning. No offense but most people on here are in the stone age when it comes to tuning. You HAVE to be able to monitor A/F and knock at all times. I wouldn't think of putting the pedal to the floor with any kind of serious boost without monitoring. I have not only A/F and knock always displayed but I have a very loud, very obnoxious buzzer that sounds the second knock is detected. It will scare the crap out of you but it gets you to lift off the pedal right away.

The difference between a good tune and bad? Yes, it's a GN, not a TL but the same principals apply. I was breaking stuff at the 12.7 range (roughly 300hp). 18 years old and cranking the boost up on pump gas.

Now I'm making well over double that, dropped over 2 seconds off my 1/4 times, and somehow haven't broken anything in nearly 3 years. It's all in the tuning.

 

^What he said, the tune is life, and not just the tune of the engine management, but also the mechanicals, the two must match to get the efficency to make the power per L/ci we are shooting for.

 

well, with the amount of research i've been doing on the tuning and f/i'ing this car.... i may be the first to s/c a J35A8

as soon as we start to see some real tuning evidence!! i dont wanna be the guinea pig ...

So USSI, tell us.. what exactly do you have going on with your ECU ?? you still have the hondata flash, and THEN did the 3.5L internals? or are you using the hondata J32 flash with this setup? have you done any external tuning?

 

Lack of tuning is killing us. I dont understand why no one has cracked this one yet. Our computers are completely reprogrammable and I do it all the time for bulletins and such. Thing I dont get is why no one has come out with a flash or piggyback that allows KPRO type tuning???

 

I feel most companies don't feel its worth it. The money and research put into it won't come back as fast as it would on a more popular and "modable" car. I think if similar ECU mapping issues come up on a number of other cars then we have a better chance. Only other options is a smaller knowledgable company and a stack of cash. I believe a number of our engines have been boosted but they aren't trying to keep the luxury amenities that we are. Im more optimistic than I sound but just haven't had time or money to really research like I would with this issue like the rest of you. GL though to all of you and looking forward to some positive results

 

I hear ya on that. No piggy is understandable. Its the ease in which a reflash is performed that I am really curious about. That could be figured out by someone in front a computer. Thats what annoys me. Would be cool to have a software program that allows you to tweak your parameters accordingly and then flash it to the eprom. Thats all I ask lol!!

 

Pleasem get me one of the hex files you are putting down from the OEM side, I will look at it and see what I can see. But if Hondata has a re-flash, then they have at least partially cracked it, the problem is having the tools to dump the file down without the $$$$$ expense of the Honda tool.

 

I'm glad someone finally did this. I never believed lookinco. I can't wait to see what the final #'s are.

 

AcUrAPimP121 & A-Spec2008TypeS

 

PM me.

 

I looked on HONDATAS site and could not locate any reflashes for the post 02 Honda or Acura aside from TSX and RSX. Anyone know where I can find it?

 

Oh yeah. Where did you get those rods and pistons from? Are they plug and play? I have an extra 3.5 type S motor I was thinking about building. Based on the appearance of your old gear looks like you detonated to DEATH!!

 

^What I am looking for is the one of the Honda update files....

 

I know. Scroll up. I got back to you.

 

PM'd

 

[QUOTE=ggesq;10100521]
woohoo FINALLY!

goodbye to AcUrAPimP121 and his imaginary friend

 

ya i started to doubt him too. never any detailed pictures and not a single dyno graph to prove anything. he also told he was able to adjust the vtec with the fi/c, WRONG!

 

Uhh, you can adjust VTec with the FIC....

Take the stock VTEC signal, run it iinto a relay and the other side of the coil to ground, then take the two VTM (Vtec Pressure Switch) wires and run thm to the relay contacts, this keeps the ECU happy and thinking VTEC was achieved. Then directly connect the soilinoid the the FIC's switched 12V output.

 

doh! really? i wished you lived in cali or a neighboring state for that matter.

damn, did not know that paul. besides the vtec not working, the PnP harness that boomslang made me is great, BUT the pigtail is very short. im sending it back to them so they can lengthen it a bit so it can sit comfortably in the glovebox. i also have to drill a hole exclusively for the vacuum line to the unit, cause i think it might be pinched going through the factory hole that the one harness is going through.. i got it tuned at church auto and shawn said it works very well with our cars. the a/f is very ver flat compared to my previous tunes with the greddy e-mangles.

i was going to open up a thread eventually regarding it on v 6 P and get some of your expertise regarding why you think the vtec adjustments didnt work, but need to iron out that a/f problem i was telling you about a few months ago. im still getting stuck in closed loop every once in a while when the car has sat for a bit. then it wont go to 11:5 at WOT until it is either fully warm or we have hot weather. last week we had a very cool night and my a/f didnt get any lower than 13 flat at WOT. i changed my map sensor and got a new O2 sensor for the wideband (thought maybe it was reading wrong) but still having the issue. the FI/C was only on my car for a week, so im back to using just the ultimate for now. i know its not the FI/C, cause it does the same thing with the blue and ultimate.

we'll discuss more about it over there when i open up a thread for it. i dont want to hi-jack usman's thread about it.

 

Check you IAT and ECT, sounds like the engine doesn't know what temp it or the intake air is. Hook up a scanner and see what it reports....

Oh, and I make up the harness myself, I just get the extension from them, I have had a couple issues with thier harnesses.

 

i thought the same thing and took off the IAT sensor, but it looked fine.

lol i dont even know where to look for the ECT . im thinking the thermostat housing?? ill check it out tomarrow

 

I don't care what the sensors look like ,LOL, I care how they work, thus why you need the scanner to see what they are actually reporting back. The ect is the one next to the EGR, the fan switch is on the thermo housing.

Also as far as the VTEC connections, you may also want to connect the ECU vtec out to the FIC as well thru one of the analog inputs so that you can tune fuel and timting when the ECU adjusts for VTEC.

 

ahhhh..i want to supercharge my 08 tl-s. someone please let me know when we can get this done!! lol

 

If someone local has a blower I have a TLS motor on a stand and can mock it up to see what needs to be done (if anything) to make it work. Remember..Comptech told me that there base TL exhaust would not fit on a TYPE S and I argued that one too. As you can see I have one on my car and it fit fine.

 

^ I can tell you right now... it fits

 

So there you go. Why hasnt anyone done it yet? I think costwise its not that great a deal but thats my opinion.

 

well cost is definitely the problem, $4500 + tuning

unless you street tune with the diagnostics tool

 

I hear ya on that. Eh. Ima juice head what can I say??

 

Looks like a nice build USSI. As someone said on here, get the thing re-tuned as your afr is lean and the same thing will happen again. Someone mentioned a monitoring device for detonation, the one I used on my previous setup was made by link system. it has a series of led lights that will get your attention quick. here is the link, i found this to be a fantastic product and it's easy to install. it taps into your knock sensor wire and does'nt affect it's operation at all.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/Anci...ices/KnockLink

 

Yes on the TL-S cams. I've got all these extra parts in my garage now including a set of TL-S cams and heads, and even a block..check the black market soon lol

I do have have hondata reflash for the j32. There are a few variations floating out there - those that run with the ACM, those without, and then mine. Mine was tuned without the ACM for the stock pulley then adjusted for the HBP pulley later on, so you could interchange the size of the pulley on the fly and the ecu would compensate. My car was running OK, A/F was ok, etc, and in the end, the tune was within spec. but it was a long process to actually get the tune to that point (with plenty of pinging along the way) that may have blown the piston rings.

Along the way running lean was an issue as timing was advanced. Upgrading the injectors seemed to solve this. I'm going to look into upgrading the fuel system to avoid this since this could be a bigger issue with the upped displacement. Problem is, as with alot of things for this car there is no standard, any fuel rails would have to be custom, same with fuel lines, only thing that will fit is the walboro fuel pump.

I haven't even TOUCHED tuning. I'm curious to know how my ECU will react to the displacement. At some point after I get my CEL's taken care of I will take it to Church's perhaps and dyno it. At that point I'll see what my options are for tuning or what I will have to do. I don't think hondata is interested in doing anything further, which is too bad because they were extremely damn close. i mean, in the end i ended up with a good tune since i was their test car...but i doubt we'll reap the benefits of that.

I'll look into something like this, its kinda ugly so i might have to hide it somewhere. I've learned the hard way - KNOCK KILLS!!


I thought about this..this blower is a bit too small for this engine. I wonder if this kit would even fit. What else would you have to do to get this to work?

 

What I would do before putting the blower back on would be the following in the following order.....

1) Break in the engine NA.
2) Dump the Hondata reflashed ECU for a stock mapped unit (sell it and get some $$$) the maps on it are no good for the new engine.
3) If you don't have them, get a good WB O2 gauge (the AEM works well)
4) Get a AEM FIC installed and tuned for your car NA and get any bugs with it worked out.
5) Get ahold of someone at Magnuson who made the nose assembly for Comptech and ask them about upgrading the blower to a M90, the castings I believe will bolt up to a M90 also, if not send it to me and I will re-work them to fit.
6) Install with the std CT boost pulley, tune for it, and meure out air and blower temps to determine if additional cooling would be needed to push to 10psi.

 

Well, scratch Magnuson, I just called them and there is no easy swap over for the M62. If interested keep your eyes out on my other forum for a thread in a couple months on the M90 on our vehicles.

 

Stock fuel lines and injector rail should be fine. Try the Walbro and bigger injectors and your fuel system should be complete. IMO, fuel system mods should be the first mods.

 

Whos making bigger injectors for the Tl? Damn skippy I got the Walbrough in my hooptie.

 

rsx-s 310cc direct fit

rdx 440cc needs minor mods to injector and plugs

 

since so many of you guys who know a bit about the S/C are here, what wires does the comptech ACM tap into??

 

I hate cars, I would expoect he already upgraded the fuel pump as part of the CT kit, but yes after he gets some management on the car RDX injectors are definatly in order.

The comptech ACM is a map sensor tap, it has 4 wires +12 ign power, ground, MAP in, and MAP out. you cut the map sensor wire at the ECU and wire it between the sensor and ECU, it is a 1/2 azz management, but it kinda works for STD boost, but is far from enough for high boost to run the engine properly.

 

The acm is essentially a voltage clamp. If the PCM reads higher than atmospheric pressure it will code. Superchargers will create boost or in other words higher than atmospheric pressure. The ACM locks the max voltage to 2.92 which keeps the computer happy. On the older S/C kits I did I never got an upgraded fuel pump with the kit. Only that cheesy enrichment method of squishing the regulator. Have the added that to the newer kits?

 

Cool beans! I prefer this method of enrichment as opposed to "adding" to inj. duty cycle. I have always had good luck going up in injector size and reducing duty cycle. Anything out there that will allow modifications to the fuel mixture this way?