Originally Posted by odypyro

found some redline racing atf for ~$106 + shipping. they take paypal and google too.
i havent bought from them yet but thought i should put it here.
link below.

CK

http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Red-...fhu=3634393134

Originally Posted by FollowingNFront

Hey IHC.... I'm going to do 4-5 D&Rs..... Do I need to buy a crush washer (for the drain plug) for EACH D&R? From Honda those crush washers cost $2.87 each, and that would translate to $12-15 bucks on crush washers if I do 4-5 D&Rs....

Or can I buy one crush washer and reuse the current one until the last D&R and then swap it for the new one?

Also...... Did you still want 3 qts? If so PM me. Your PM box is always full lol

Originally Posted by Stock2004TL

Can you give me the PN for the crush washers? thanks.

Originally Posted by chayos00

For the drain plug, I have done about 8 D&F and never changed the drain plug crush washer. no leaks.

Originally Posted by soulimports

any users of the redline in the 08 tl? i did a 2x3 with z-1. and does anyone know exactly which trans is in the 08 read a few post about it being different but no one seemed too positive as to which.

Originally Posted by Stock2004TL

sorry i meant for the fill plug crush washer

Originally Posted by the Apostle

I have read a decent portion of this thread. 26 pages is a lot to take in since I have not been keeping up as of late. I was about to do a 3x3 with Redline D4 but after reading more of this thread I am a bit confused. It seems that some people are doing a 3x3 with just D4 or equivelant and some are doing a 50/50, 60/40 mixture with Lightweight/Racing, Etc... I guess my question is this... Can I just do a 3x3 of D4 and call it a day?

My car has 66,000 miles on it and I have changed the ATF on 2 separate occassions. Once at about 25k and again at about 45k.

I have not changed the 3rd and 4th gear switches yet, which I should probbaly do now as well.

What's the best route to follow?

Originally Posted by the Apostle

I have read a decent portion of this thread. 26 pages is a lot to take in since I have not been keeping up as of late. I was about to do a 3x3 with Redline D4 but after reading more of this thread I am a bit confused. It seems that some people are doing a 3x3 with just D4 or equivelant and some are doing a 50/50, 60/40 mixture with Lightweight/Racing, Etc... I guess my question is this... Can I just do a 3x3 of D4 and call it a day?

My car has 66,000 miles on it and I have changed the ATF on 2 separate occassions. Once at about 25k and again at about 45k.

I have not changed the 3rd and 4th gear switches yet, which I should probbaly do now as well.

What's the best route to follow?

Originally Posted by chayos00

Same with that plug, I have changed neither crush washers. Plus I never do the oil drain plug either. Never had a leak related to it either.

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

Type F fluid is a BIG NO NO, it has detergent in it and will destroy the seals in the soliniod within 3-6 months (seen it happen). Other Honda trans I have seen run with Dextron I,II,III usually have clutch failures quickly.

Originally Posted by WHEEELMAN

Would this fluid have the same positive effects for an 03-05 Honda Odyssey/Pilot 5 speed auto?


It would be bolted up to my J30A1 in my accord w/ the same 03-05 Oddy/Pilot ECU running the engine and tranny.
(will be installed by NVA-AV6 in the future)

Originally Posted by e30cabrio

Do you think these results are applicable to gen2 CLs?

Originally Posted by Dopes6070

Figured I would ask for your guys thoughts on running this stuff in my 2G RL. Ive got 97k miles and it shifts well, but I definatly feel the pause while it shifts. If a different fluid can change that then I want to give it a try... I'm definatly willing to take the risk even though I dont think there is one since I would have no problem swapping the trans if needed. I love those kind of weekend projects!

Originally Posted by WHEEELMAN

e30cabrio, thanks for taking the initiative and "testing" a low FM tranny fluid on that 2nd gen CL tranny.

I'd like to use this stuff, in addition to a tranny cooler, when I have the 4 speed swapped to an oddy/pilot 5 speed auto to make it last longer.


I have a question on the viscosity info:
e30cabrio plans to use the Racing ATF
Inaccurate is using the Lightweight Racing ATF

What would be the difference between the 2? ...like, less of a chance on the fluid burning when using a higher viscosity?

also, if one were to use the tranny cooler, i'm guessing this is going to keep the temps down and would lower the possibility of the Lightweight Racing ATF(lower viscosity) to "burn up"?

Originally Posted by e30cabrio

Do you know what viscosity Amsoil Universal is? My plan was to mix about 80% redline Racing with it.

Originally Posted by e30cabrio

I have 4 quarts of Redline racing & four lightweight racing coming today, as well as 10 quarts of Amsoil Universal. What drain & fill process do you guys recommend?

The fluid currently in my Cls is <1500 Z1.

Does anyone think I should get the second filter in the write up? I have a cooler.

Originally Posted by e30cabrio

How many lightweight should I use in my final drain? there is none in there now.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by TLer trash

I've been following this thread for a while, and you guys have convinced me to try this. My only question is what is your concern about the added viscosity of the redline racing? I'm doing this on a 2nd gen trans, which has more of a problem with fluid flow to the clutches than the 3rd gen ones.[at least that seems to be the consensus] Will the thicker fluid exacerbate this? At this point I've added a little over 3 qts of the redline and haven't noticed any difference.

Originally Posted by TLer trash

This is the first I've heard that an electrical problem is the cause of the clutch wear; please explain. Anyway, I wasn't talking about the oil jet problem. Generally reliable sources on the 2nd gen side agree that low oil flow to the second or third clutch is the culprit. Supposedly the new case design addresses this problem. Occasionally reports of solenoid screens plugged with torque converter debris. What's the lowdown on this electrical problem?

Originally Posted by TLer trash

Do you mean sensors and not solenoids, or did you do them all?

Originally Posted by lemonade

Sorry to hijack this thread, want to ask a noob question.
So i change 3 qt of ATF fluid every 2 oil change instead of doing the 3X3 thing.
Is the Honda Z1 an inferior product compare to those redline you guys are discussing? I just want to keep the transmission as long as possible, what i care is longevity. Any comment on this? Thanks in ahead.

Originally Posted by nate_0022

So if i'm looking to do a trans fluid flush 3x3. Coming off of the Z1, should I be doing a complete replacement with the D4, or slowly introducing the D4 to the trans? When I start adding the Type F whould I be doing what Inaccurate is doing flushing 3 quarts of D4 and filling 3 quarts Type F, then maybe a week later flush 3 quarts replace 3 quarts Type F?

Originally Posted by Pharonocon

This is a great thread. I am at 33k right now and am about to do 3x3 flush. Everything is really detailed, but sometimes i get a little confused as am not very savvy when it comes to working on cars.

I basically would like to use a mixture of the Lightweight racing ATF and Racing ATF.

It seems to me that you guys are saying to fill with 3qts racing on the first two fill and drains and then on the final one use the lightweight.

Is that right? Because it seems to me that you would mix them for each drain and fill. Can someone clarify due to the mass extent of my noobetry. Thanks.

Originally Posted by chayos00

So I have to ask you guys, since the TL is my wife's car, do you think a girl would complain about the shifting change with the "Type F" fluid? I asked her if she minded that her car shifted firmer, and she stated "As long as the car works, and it doesn't break it. Sure." I told her from what I'm reading on here that it helps to quicken the shifting just a tad.

Should I try all Type F or do a D4 change at some point?

Originally Posted by 08TLEE

LOL, good times. You are a bit older than me...I remember the B&M kits well, but I thought there was one competitor. Unfortunately, I not only couldn't afford a shift kit, but had nowhere near the knowledge/balls to tear into my trans. If I knew then what I know now...wait, I still don't know anything!

But, agreed on the hard shifts...I've owned THM350, 200-4R, and 700-R4, and driven THM400's and 350's that were worked, etc. The TL doesn't shift hard.

In fact, one thing I wanted to ask...am I the only one who thinks it actually shifts *slower* in SS mode? Like it's second-guessing me...or maybe I just suck at driving, IDK.

But my real question...has anyone done Type F on an '07 or '08? And, Inaccurate, from your research, is there any reason you can think of that the '07-'08 trannies would react much differently, or that I should proceed with extreme caution? I'm coming up on 20K...and wondering if that faint burning smell I often detect is the crappy Z1? IHC did say that Z1 is often toast by 20K, which has me extremely concerned, to say the least....

Originally Posted by JackSampson

Inaccurate and IHC,

I am glad I found this thread. I plan on changing my atf in a few weeks with my oil change. I skimmed through this thread and am a little confused on what atf to use. Originally I was planning on using Red Line D4. I have an 07 Type-S. Now I am considering D4 mixed with Red Line racing atf. Probably do a 2/1 ratio D4/Racing. What do you guys think? I have about 63k on the car and did a 1x3 about 10k ago with ZR1. I have also replaced the pressure swithces a while back. Thanks for the input guys.

Originally Posted by BostonSilverTypeS

anyone know if the TL and TL-S tranny's are the same or not? I'm assuming they are the same but could be wrong. Also this pressure switches 3rd and 4th gear how long does it take to do and at what mileage has everyone been doing it at? Sorry for being a little off topic but juts trying to get some quik answers if possible...TIA

Originally Posted by SharksBreath

argh...i know this has been beaten to death over n over but...

should i do ALL redline racing OR 6 qts d4 n 3 qts racing?

making my purchase on friday.

thanks...

Originally Posted by BostonSilverTypeS

InAccurate what if I was to run only RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). would that be okay for cold climate?

I know in hot climate it would be fine since you are running pure Redline lightweight, But im in NorthEast I want to run just the Lightweight stuff as well just wondering if it would be Fine in the cold weather. I would think I should have no problem

Originally Posted by BostonSilverTypeS

"""I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug."""

I only asked cuz i read this post from InAccurate, but maybe could be a typo....But if it's not okay I will def run the mix for sure instead, I'll be doing this on October and winter will be around the corner...

IHC what do you recommend running for the 07 TypeS Trans I drive it hard from time to time daily commute Mon-Fri is about 10miles city driving to and from work...I want to remove as much comfortness as possible to meaning the harsher I can get it the better. Your thoughts how which Mix combo I should go with?

Originally Posted by antlive

so after reading this thread 5 times, I believe the conclusion is if you want a quicker shift with less comfort (feeling the shift) then moved to the mixture of racing and lightweight ATF....if you want to use a better ATF just move to the D4 application and keep somewhat the shift comfort...but all in all move off Z1

Originally Posted by antlive

I went to go do this with the red line racing and I had a conversation with the oil dealer...he suggested that I not use the red line racing if I weren't going to be running car on the track....he said its harder on the transmission and will eventually damage the trans....I went the the 3x3 z1 to Amsoil Universal ATF....everything feels great...time will tell the longevity....I still have to do the oil pressure switches...I had a little problem with trying to replace them...Can someone post a DIY for Type S, I don't believe there is one.

Originally Posted by chayos00

Hey I've got to ask, why is everyone changing out their tranny pressure switches? I have never noticed an issue with my wife's TL with the shifting, are people over zealous about changing them or what?

Originally Posted by WHEEELMAN

OK guys. I'm getting ready to swap over a 5-speed Auto from a 7th gen Accord into my 6th gen accord, along with a J35.

I want to use the Redline to prolong the 5 speed auto tranny but i'm still worried about the detergents, IF ANY, in the Redline Type F fluid damaging the seals in the solenoids as well as damaging the clutch packs -- like NVA-AV6 stated on page 1 of the thread.

I've had work done from him before and I trust him, but I'm not sure if he does have experience with this new Redline formula. I would just hate to run the Redline and down the road, have to replace the tranny again due to the Redline fluid damaging the internals.... We still don't have long term data on its use.


IHC, you got any words that will give me confidence in running the Redline Racing Fluid. lol

Originally Posted by hleapha

I talked with Dave at Redline and he seemed to clear up many of my concerns about the viscosity and the reason for Type F.

I asked: "What are the reasons manufacturers are using Type F's.... is it just for a smoother shift"

Dave: "...basically, Yes."

I asked if it would cause mroe wear, and he said that it wouldn't.

However, he did keep saying that it's not a good idea to use the fluid in my modern car with a lock-up torque converter, which I believe we had. As this causes shuttering during shifts. However, I believe our TL is specifically designed with some features that eliminate this problem. Inaccurate and other believe the TL removes power until the transmission signals the shift is complete, and then reapplies power. So, I reckon if there is not shutter because of the torque converter, then there is no problem. I just hope I'm right.

My car has 110k and has some dirty Castrol ATF (import), I just hope the Redline doesn't over-clean my tranny and cause it to deteriorate.

Originally Posted by Mjakaz06TL

I really cannot decide between redline racing, lightweight or d4!! almost 65k miles and car shifting like absolute crap! shuddering all the time between shifts etc. Seems to of started happening within the last couple weeks and getting more noticeable. So going to do the 3 and 4 PS's and a 3x3... prob do one flush a week. Was also considering while at it to replace the atf filter.. any suggestions? Prob going to cost me at least what $200 bux give or take to do myself i assume?

Originally Posted by Mjakaz06TL

Thanks Hleapha.. Ordered all the parts u listed for $93 shipped and i found out something cool... i went to order the racing atf and upon chkout it wanted to charge me sales tax, i then click on contact us and find they are in indianapolis where im located so i called them to order and if u go pick up u also get a 5% discount. So with the discount, and no shipping just tax total was $102!!

So looks like i will be doing my first 1x3 nxt wknd. I am wondering how long i should drive b4 doing the 2nd and 3rd etc? Was thinking a week but maybe go longer? Ill wait to install the internal filter and 3rd n 4th pressure switches til i do the 3rd drain n fill.

Originally Posted by Mjakaz06TL

I did the 3x3 change last night with redline racing fluid. Very nice and quick, smooth shifts now. I had what seemed like long hard shifts b4 doing. Cant believe the difference so far. Only 20 miles since the last of the 3 changes so it may even get better as it works thru. So far very impressed. I should have my internal filter and pressure switches wed so ill change them out later.

Btw, i still have 3 qts of redline left... would it hurt or be overkill to do one more drain in a week or so, or just leave it with the 3x3 instead of 4x3 and wait to do it in a yr or so?

IHC.. what is the cooler line method?

Originally Posted by ezland00

great thread, i tried to read as much i can last night and felt asleep, lol. i have my tranny replace by the dealer under warranty around 32k because of shudding at 3 gear. now my car has around 60k and recently the shudding came back also on 3 gear. i want to change the ATF to see if it goes away. So should do 2x3 Redline racing fuild and 1x3 light weight. is this correct?

Originally Posted by Buda

Quick question. As I'm replacing the filter and pressure switches at the same time as the 3x3 do I change them out before the first drain, after the last fill, or somewhere in between. Figure it doesn't matter for the switches but may for the filter.

Originally Posted by kgovett

I am a bit corn-fused. You guys were going with Redline D4 mixed with racing fluid. And then it went to racing mixed with light racing.
I was planing on running 2 parts D4 to 1 part racing fluid.

What are the majority of you guy's running successfully?

Thanks, Kevin

Originally Posted by kgovett

My wife has an 03 TL with around 100,000 miles on the trans would it be crazy to go to the redline racing fluid at this milage?

Also thank you, I hate cars.

Thanks

Originally Posted by BukvaMan

I live in NJ/NY, should i stick to just racing type F or is something else recommended. It gets cold up here but you know regular cold i guess nothing like Canada . Inaccurate, when i was looking at your youtube videos of the transmission shifting i could not believe the difference it made...

Originally Posted by jhumbo

I live in Chicago and had been wondering the same thing. After reading over this thread I found that the viscosity of the Redline Racing (Type F) is higher than the Acura Z1 fluid and that it could be a bit thick for cold temps. I believe this is why many on this forum recommend 2qts Racing with 1qt Lightweight racing. Mixing in some Lightweight will bring the viscosity down and that ratio ends up pretty close to the viscosity of the Z1 fluid. Take a look at this post by Innacurate:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2#post12371292

Originally Posted by BukvaMan

I am about to order Redline Transmission fluid. Im just having a hard time deciding 100% what to get.

At first i wanted to go with D4 to be safe, u guys recommend Racing TYPE F but not really when living in colder climates. I live in NJ. It gets cold but not crazy but i do mostly short trips around Town and im always in stop and go traffic. To be on the safe side more then anything else should i order D4 or go straight to TYPE F or mix TYPE F with light weight. * 2qt TYPeF(30304) + 1 light weight (30314) for each fill.
Im even gonna get some 5w-20 redline engine oil .

thanx for your inputs.

Originally Posted by BukvaMan

OK. So i guess 2 qt of Type F_30304 and one Lightweight Racing_30314 x3
is that enough or should i add another qt of typeF or lightweight to have for topping off.

Sorry to bother so much, just wanna be sure not to mess up things

thank you very much by the way

Originally Posted by rudboy00

So do you do this as 3 x drain and 3x fill?
or only one drain and fill?

Originally Posted by wilzrsx

I originally did a 2x3 of the D4 and then did another 2x3 of the racing. Is this still okay? I live in Denver, Colorado, so the temps for winter can get pretty cold.

Originally Posted by rudboy00

I still have the Redline D4 sitting around, Is it still safe to use that ATF?
I might as well use this before getting into Racing ATF.

Originally Posted by scottn3

IHC,
I just bought an '06 TL that has 166,000 miles on it. I know it is high, but this car has spend A LOT of time in top gear cruising on the interstate.
The car has had all the regular dealer maintenance and a transmission 3x3 with filter at 100K. Of course Z1 at the dealer.
What ATF would you recommend at this stage? The transmission has soft, normal shifts and seems to work well. I am going to install new sensors and am looking for the right fluid. I am thinking the Redline Racing over time, but am also nervous that it may cause problems. Would Amsoil ATD be a safer choice or possible the Redline D4?
Is the Racing type F a long term proven fluid?

Originally Posted by nutnut

I'm curious about that too. Though my pack of Amsoil type-f is already being shipped, I would like to flush the tranny first with a cheap non-FM fluid, drive for a few day days to "wash" the internals throughout and then flush again and refill with the Amsoil.

is this the "right" non-FM fluid?
PETRO-CANADA ATF type F
Ford ESW-M2C33-F, Ford cars produced up to 1980

My tranny is on the way out too, I'm just trying to extend its life until I save enough $$ for the 6spd swap, so that could be an interesting experiment. The FM in the fluid could be potentialy required also for something else then just the slip shifting, and while the ester based fluid could work well there even without the FM, a generic could fail.

Originally Posted by AtlM5

I'm planning on doing the 2:1 racing:lightweight mix. Are there any places that I can get a non-chemical(mechanical) tranny flush so I don't have to do the 3x3 and buy so much fluid?

Originally Posted by chayos00

Time for me to order my ATF fluid for my wife's TL. I was thinking of doing it similar to this style, but I don't believe her car has the cooler. Would I be left to doing the standard 3x3 flush? Or Do I have options?

Originally Posted by scottn3

I am going to do a full flush and would like to get as much of the Z1 out as possible. I am thinking it will be worth my time to pull the fluid output line and let it run into a bucket. Can someone confirm that the fluid is pumped out of the banjo pipe that comes off the filter housing?

Originally Posted by BukvaMan

Im ready to tackle the job tomorrow ! . Since I live in an Apartment i never bothered doing my own maintenance. But i do have a garage parking spot and nobody has a problem with me doing little things like minor performance modifications..So i said if i can do that why not do the whole thing since my mechanic seems to be busy most of the time. So i went today and bought myself a Jack two stands and one of those creepers.

Just some questions before i begin...

Does the car need to be level or at least close to it when draining the transmission fluid... when i raise the front end, since it is going to be at a little incline is that a problem? I have only two jack stands.

and when im ready to poor new fluid, since I'm going to mix 2 qt of type f racing with one quart lightweight racing, which order should i poor them in ? and how much do i poor in before i check the amount needed.

Also i only have the fluid ready.(9qt at total).. I didnt get any washers and such... is anything else needed... The car has 33 000 miles.

Is it ok if i do the 3x3 routine in a 3 month period, having the fluid changed every month one time.


and of course any hints i should look out for....

thanks for your help everyone.

Originally Posted by rudboy00

I need Help finding these parts for 2007 TL Base. Can someone help please.

Originally Posted by rudboy00

What about 3rd and 4th Gear Switches?

Originally Posted by NetDiver

Hmm, this looks like it DOES have a replaceable trans. filter https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...l+a%2Ft+filter

Originally Posted by dblock2151

So the 07 and up TL's dont need to change there 3rd and 4th gear switches?

Originally Posted by spdweb.net

The pressure switches are still the same design and thus I would only assume be susceptible to the same wear characteristics. The flex disc inside the switch weakens over time making contact at a lower pressure. Not only this but the On/Off pressure becomes closer together. Some recommend they be changed every 3 - 4 years to be on the safe side.

Here is a great resource explaining how these types of switches wear.

http://brisdance.com/Honda/AutoSensorInf.html

Originally Posted by SpiderX1016

I did a 3x3 with OEM ATF back in April (about 6-7k miles ago). I'm going to be doing the pressure switches next week.

So I was wondering, can I slowly do a 1x3 every 5k miles with new Redline fluid or do I have to do a 3x3?

Originally Posted by SpiderX1016

If I do a 3x3 with Racing, that should make it 80% Racing and 20% ATF-Z1.
Should I be worried about the Viscosity? Do I need to use some Lightweight?

Originally Posted by kjelly

All, I haven't read any posts about "colder" temperatures, so I figured I'd write a quick blurb. This morning it was 28 degrees F and rose to 30 degrees when I got to work. I took all local streets with plenty of traffic lights to see how the car shifted (I've done a 3x3 refill with Racing ATF). I felt no perceivable difference during the 15 min. drive. So, that was nice to see.

Anyone from Minnesota with comments?

Originally Posted by DonnieDarko8221

I would like to know this as well. Temps where I live occasionally go down to -10F or colder for a couple of days in the winter (with sub 32F temps common; it's around 20F outside right now).

Originally Posted by SpiderX1016

So I did a 1x3 with Racing Type F. Feels like the shifts are quicker. It isn't as sloppy.

Weird thing though, I checked the fluid (dipstick) before the 1x3 and after 30 miles after 1x3 and it turned (browner?). I'm not sure if it's in my head or not but it's kind of brown now. I've only had the Z1 for about 8k miles. It smells the same as before.

Should I wait 500 miles or should I do another 1x3 tomorrow? I have 3 more quarts.

Originally Posted by oarichard

I'm not sure if this has been asked already but I was wondering if it's recommended to go straight to the Redline ATF type F fluid from my stock trans fluid. And was wondering why you had to flush it out 3 times, sorry if this has been asked already.

Originally Posted by vp55

Should I go with the following for the best results in performance/shifts? TIA

9 Quarts total is the recommended amount?

6 Quarts Racing Fluid
3 Quarts Lightweight Fluid

Originally Posted by donaldso718

Can I go straight to redline racing atf from stock? I dont know what type of aft fluid was used in the last change, i had it changed when got it back in Feb 2010.

Should I use redline racing aft 5w20 or 5w30? I live in NYC. And I also plan on doing 1x1 more frequently until i reach 3x. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Soichiro Fan

Thank you, "Inaccurate" for all of the great info. I am a newbie and I have been reading up on changing out the Z-1 (and replacing the pressre switches) for a while...Would you mind a couple more questions before I order the fluid..
1) I have an 06 TL and I live in South Florida where it almost never gets cold..(and when it does I leave the TL in the garage :-) so do I need the :lightweight in the mix at all?
I have 59K miles am unsure if the ATF has been changed - the car was dealer maintained but I can't find a record of the ATF being changed... I was planning to do a 3x3 with the D4 and then one more time with 2 or 3 quarts of the Racing Fluid...so....
2) What is the advantage to going with straight Racing Fluid..(it seems like a much more drastic changeover and I'm a bit nervous about getting so far away from the OEM recommendations...
Thanks for all your expertise and your willingness to share it!

Originally Posted by soon2b954

Originally Posted by jsonkimz

I hate to keep beating a dead horse, and I'm sorry if this has been discussed... I tune in every so often so I'm not sure if I missed anything.

Is it okay to use the redline regular racing and the lightweight racing in any ratio combination? I live in a somewhat cold climate (Baltimore) so I know it'd be good to mix in some lightweight. I previously ordered 4 qts of racing fluid, but haven't had a chance to do a drain and refill yet. I'm just about to order the remaining 5 qts (to get a total of 9 qts), and was planning on getting 1 regular and 4 lightweight. So for the 9 qts I would eventually put in it would be 5:4, racing:lightweight. Is this good for my location, or should I use some other mixture (maybe 6:3, racing:lightweight)? I plan on doing a drain and refill every oil change until I use all 9 qts.


If I understand correctly, the fluid is the same it's just the viscosity that is different. So performance shouldn't be drastically different, but if I live in a colder place then I need to use more lightweight fluid. Baltimore is tricky because we get very cold winters and very hot summers. I know IHC and Inaccurate are both from warmer weather areas. So all of that babbling to ask: what mixture would be best for me? Thanks, guys!

Originally Posted by stevietennis

Lookie at what I got from Mr. UPS =]



Before I start the 3x3, do you think 3 Redline racing atf is going to be too thick? I live in Los Angeles, so it isn't super cold. I'm thinking I can get away with not mixing this stuff with some Redline racing lightweight. Anyone care to chime in and just put my mind at peace.

I'll let everyone know the result after I do the 1x3, 2x3, and 3x3 =]

Originally Posted by Sir Drake

way too many posts to read...i simply just want to use the best atf for my 07' TL...FM good or bad or whatever...racing lightweight blah blah, redline amsoil etc blah blah...whats mostly recommended...what ratio? I dont want any comments referring me to go back and read. Just make it simple please.

Originally Posted by Sir Drake

Is it true this stuff voids warranty? I bought the extra warranty to cover me for next 3.5 years or 100k miles, hate for it to be voided.

Originally Posted by donaldso718

Ok so i just ordered my racing ATF 30304, how do i go about changing the fluid or flushing it? Do i need to go to a mechanic? Is there a diy? Thank you for all the helpful info.

Originally Posted by cmoy1122

Hey guys I'm new to the 3g tl world and looked through most of this thread, I just bought a 04 TL Navi and did some tune ups. I would like to know if someone can answer these questions for me.


Longest time and Most miles someone has running on Redline Racing ATF on the 3g tl?

Any problems ever since the switch?

I'm in NYC so should i mix the racing atf with the lightweight atf?

I want to make sure before the switch or else ill just got to D4 ATF.

Cars got 55k miles on it and shifts feel sluggish sometimes.

Originally Posted by ttribe

Hmmm, interesting info. I just cleared 80K miles on my '06 and am wondering if I should do this. In a high heat climate like Phoenix, should there be a mixture of fluids, or just straight Racing ATF?

Originally Posted by Shinoda

I've read through the whole thread and still have a few questions. I have a 05 with 84k that as far I know has not had the tranny fluid changed. What would be my best course of action?

Thank you!

Originally Posted by Shinoda

Thanks! I decided to use the Redline D4 at first. I will slowly introduce it then I will move onto the Redline Racing down the road sometime. I also live in a colder climate(Pittsburgh) so I might even go your route with the light weight racing fluid as well.

Thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by AcuraElement

I'm planning on doing a 2x1 with Racing and finish it off with a 1x1 of the lightweight. I did a 3x3 with D4 last summer so this next series will put me at 6x and hopefully that will be fine for 20k miles. I could've waited a little longer but my objective is to get as much of the Z1 out as possible.

Does the Type-S need to have the pressure switches done?

Originally Posted by cmoy1122

Hey everyone, i recently just purchased some redline racing atf for my 04 tl with 55k miles and was wondering if i install a transmission cooler at the same time what kind of a mix should i use because its going to be more fluid.

I was planning to do a 2 redline racing atf with 1 lightweight racing atf because im in NYC. If i install the cooler should i add more lightweight racing atf or racing atf?
I read that with it would take about 1 more quart of fluid with a filter in place.
Thanks

Originally Posted by FirePR2002

to all you guys smarter than me, I just did a 3 x 3 (9 quarts) of redline racing (30304) in my 2g tl that was previously running z1. switches sometime this week or weekend. i have 3 quarts of the 30304 fluid left and was thinking another round (1 X 3) when i do the switches, but would it be smarter to sub in the light weight racing fluid instead?

Originally Posted by FirePR2002

well, i just changed the oil, which will most likely put me in mid to late summer for the next time its due - fairly hot temps. in GA. i get what you're saying. perhaps the question was better asked this way: should I have at least 3 qts. of the lightweight fluid by the time those higher temps get here?

Originally Posted by Da Answer

Hey guys, I'm not trying to change the conversation or go off topic but I wanted to know what is best way to go. Should I perform the 3x3 procedure and then change the transmission filter long with the pressure switches? Or should I change the filter and switches before the 3x3? The reason I ask is because I read there is some transmission fluid loss and I thought that may be a problem. I'm also concerned that if I replace the filter first before anything, that it will get dirty quicker because the old fluid will pass through it. Suggestions please?

Originally Posted by mrlal8

im on my phone and cant go through all the pages..anyone have a link to where to order this from..i live in jersey so im thinking i should go with 2 lightweight and 1 racing?

Originally Posted by mrlal8

i found this a pack of 12 for $131
is this the right product?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...0136120&sr=8-1

btw my friend did this before the winter season (he lives in new jersey as well real cold weather during winter) he put all type F racing fluid in and did not bother mixing it. His car ran perfectly fine during the winter so I think I will also put all type F fluid in without mixing.

Originally Posted by CometVR4

My buddy has a '07 TL Base. He's getting a shudder sometimes when going into gear. I'm thinking about recommending him do this switch over? What do you guys think?

Originally Posted by nate_0022

So for those of us living I'm colder climates for parts of the season what should we do? Run 2:1 lightweight/and type f in the winter then switch to full Type F in the summer where it reaches up to 90-100 here. Or is it okay to run the 2:1 year round?

Originally Posted by turtlecivic

I have a question has anybody tried the new Honda DW-1 transmission fluid? I'm near my 60k mark and I just want some feedback on the fluid if not I'm going with D4.

Originally Posted by turtlecivic

Thank you for the quick reply. I have one more question is it better to do 3x3 with Redline or can I do 2x2 with Honda dw1 and then 1 fill with Redline or it doesn't matter?

Originally Posted by Made in America

So I've been reading just about everything on Redline Racing ATF and I'm almost ready to pull the trigger. My only issue is that a trusted mechanic I use, who has been working on Hondas for over a decade, advised against using F-Type. He said it was phased out in the 90's for a reason.

I own an 05 Acuar TL with 112k miles on it. I bought it used with 55k miles on it. The first ATF drain and fill was done at dealer at 60k. The next drain and fill was done at 105k. I've had no issues with the Z1 and the car runs perfect. I'm kind of nervouse to change things but after reading all of the posts on Z1 I've been swaying away from the oem fluid. I wonder if the DW-1 will be much better?

I kind of wish I never read any of these posts. I would have been happy and content with using Honda Z1 now all I do is worry! LOL!

If Raceline Racing ATF is not an option what would be the next best thing?

Originally Posted by Made in America

Will the D4 help in the longevity of the transmission? As much as the Racing will?

I'm okay with the D4 as long as it will help the life of the transmission. I don't really care about sharp shifting. As long as it shifts as well as it does now.

I drive slow most of the time anyways since I have a 17 month old in the back most of the time.

Originally Posted by adsoldschool

ok, my head is spinning after reading this whole post. Could someone please answer the following? I've read conflicting on these:

I live in New England, should I go with standard Redline D4 vs Racing? Concern is viscosity due to the cold.

Should I do a 3x3 all at once or is it best to do a partial drain, drive for 1-2k mi and repeat till the 3x is met?

My 06 TL has 47K mi on it. I haven't changed the fluid since I got it.
PS: "IHC" ( I know you'll see this post)...I filled up on Sunoco 93 last night, even tho it cost me $.30+/gal more, the car deserves it after all

Originally Posted by ArthurL

From what I got out of the thread, most people that live in the cold did 2 qts Racing and 1 qts Lightweight every fill up. I'm going to be doing this next month. I decided to go this route because my car is going to be in Syracuse for most of the year and it gets COLD up there!

But yeah, does anybody know if we should do 3x3 all at once or fill up every 1-2k miles?

Originally Posted by FollowingNFront

Hey Innacurate, and I Hate Cars...

I posted a response to the Redline D4 thread last night but that was before I saw this thread. Here is my story:

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EXL V6 5at. Bought it in August of 09 certified preowned from Honda with 20,000 miles. By 44k miles, Honda was replacing the trans under warranty (7yr/100k) and I now have 60,000 miles (I drive a lot right)?

My rebuilt trans really doesn't show any signs of wear yet, But I have taken note since early on with this car, that the trans' in these cars have "interesting" shifting... Meaning they lag and slip when shifting (Im guessing due to the high FM in the Z1)...

I am kicking myself because in the 15k miles I've had the new trans, I haven't done a D&R.... Plan on doing it soon. My question (3) is:

1) The 3G TL and the 7G (06 in my case) Accord V6 have the same tranny right? Also, can either of you find out if the Accord cuts throttle during shifts as well? I think it does but I'm just speculating without proof.

2) Do either of you know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing?

3) Lastly, I live in NY where the summers can hit above 100 degrees, and the winters can hit 0 degrees or less. Should I do the "2 qt. Racing, 1 qt. lightweight" for each D&R? Or should I do something different?

Thanks a lot and I am looking forward to your responses!

Matt

Originally Posted by AdamNJ

I am hoping to get a response here for one of the two 'authorities' I hate cars & Inaccurate.

I did the 3rd & 4th pressure switches months ago and I want to switch my fluid now to a non Z1. My car has some issues shifting to 3rd and 4th, although the new switches have helped. In the previous years I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each). My car is around 77k, 05 auto TL, and I live in NJ.

What would you recommend? Seems like Red Line is a definite.

Should I just get Red Line Racing ATF (Type F)?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9

Or mix in the lightweight at 2(racing):1(lightweight) ratio?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=137&pcid=9

From the threads it seems like mixing these two is okay? I know the lightweight has lower viscosity, but I can't find z1 ratings to compare.

Thanks,
Adam

Originally Posted by AcRightLINY

Pardon my 'tardness, but what does 3x3x3 mean

Originally Posted by AdamNJ

Well I just ordered from JEGS.com 8 qts racing atf, 4 qts lightweight racing atf as the overall shipping charge was cheaper then directly from Red Line.

Now how should I go about the fluid change? I know how to do it, that isn't what I'm asking. As I mentioned, my car is at 77.5k miles, and I've experienced bad upshifts to 3rd and 4th, already swapped the pressure switches, and I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each) with Z1 in the past.

Should I do the 3x3 in one shot? Or as I read somewhere. do a 1x3, and wait a few weeks to ensure no issues since I've been running Z1 for so long, then do the rest?

Originally Posted by FollowingNFront

Oh wow that is great news! You're on your first tranny in the Accord at 182k?


Oh btw, I HATE CARS, all I need is 3 D&Rs to have something like 98% of the new stuff in there right?

Originally Posted by umakemekissu

I've been reading up on this topic but since I'm not a technical person and only owned my TL for about 2 weeks, I'm still a bit confused.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.

Originally Posted by Too Many Hobbies

My wife and I (read: her) are taking possession of an 06 TL with only 37K miles at the end of the month, so I don't have any experience with the shift quality at this time. However, I have read numerous posts of the "Type-F Diaries" and am convinced that I will be doing flushes soon after we get home. My only concern with removing too much of the Z1 junk is that the shift quality while cold will become too firm. Some have commented on this for cold shifts. If I were the primary driver, it would not be an issue, but since it will be my wife, it may become one. Typical driving on her car is mostly short runs. We do have plenty of mornings over the whole winter where we start off the day at 28 degrees or so. I am thinking that I will try for a 2 or 3x3 with type F and then evaluate over time. As you say, this will be approx 20% of FM loaded fluid and will hopefully still give the "right combination" of cold shift and longevity. I guess that my question is, does anyone else have this concern or is it really a nonissue?

Originally Posted by umakemekissu

okay so let says my 08 TL currently has Z1 in it.. should I do Redline D4 or Redline Synthetic ATF? isnt it "Synthetic" supposed to be better for the transmission?

Originally Posted by FollowingNFront

Oh ok cool... Well thanks for saving me money IHC! I'm still considering the 5 D&Rs because I have an awesome deal of $100 shipped on 15 qts!

But would you still only recommend doing four D&Rs? Because if so I may be able to knock off a few bucks and get 12 qts instead of 15. I just think $100 for 15 qts is great and would get more Z1 out. You tell me if I should do 4 or 5 D&Rs because I could go for either one.

Oh, also (If I do 5 D&Rs hypothetically)... Would 12 Racing and 3 lightweight cause shifts to be too rough when cold? Or is the logic of doing the first 4 D&Rs with Racing, and the last D&Rs with straight Lightweight the logic that will get me close to OE viscosity?

Originally Posted by Lazer187

what potential problems with harsh shifts in "cold startup" cause when using this redline atf in cold weather?

Originally Posted by Lazer187

Correct me if im wrong, but the Type S owners do not need to change out the 3rd and 4th Pressure switch.

Originally Posted by xxtdxx

I have the switches on order and am picking up 6 qts of Racing ATF w/ 3 qts of lightweight Racing ATF either tomorrow or Monday. Should I do the 3x3 at the same time I change the switches? Before? After? Does it not matter?

Originally Posted by FollowingNFront

Hey IHC or Innacurate,
Can I do all 5 D&Rs in one day? Or should I space it out? I'm getting mixed opinions and I'd like to know from either of you guys for sure.

Thanks

Originally Posted by ajs800

Did you add any qts. of the lightweight fluid? I'm planning to order my fluid today, but don't know if I should just order the 12qts of either the lightweight or straight racing or do the combo.

Originally Posted by justinfop

Hey Inaccurate when you said that do a single drain each week mean 3 quart of redline atf after each drain and discard the drain and fill in new redline atf again for about 9 to 10 time?

Originally Posted by justinfop

are you guys using synthetic oil atf or racing atf type (f)

Originally Posted by KiWiLiT43

Ok, been lurking this thread for a while, and I am ready for some opinions.

After reading through I have felt pretty confident that switching to Redline will be the best plan of action for me. Just hit 65K, have not done any transmission work since I've owned the car (20K miles or so), so it's safe to assume that I am still running the factory fluid. I have never had any transmission problems, but I have looked at the fluid and it's dirty, and needs to be changed.

Before finding this thread I have found countless posts about how the factory Z-1 fluid is a weak point for Honda, and that Redline D4 is a better fluid for longer transmission life and more precise shifting. After reading through this thread I am still up in the air as to using D4 or Type F. Like I mentioned before I've never had any problems, so I am wondering if D4 (as it's more similar to Z-1) would be the better choice?

Either way, that's not my biggest concern at this point. I feel comfortable doing this change myself (with the help of some excellent walk through in the garage). But since I don't have a good way to jack the car up while keeping it level, and in the essence of saving time, I have contacted a local shop about doing this for me. I have very bad experiences with my local Acura dealership; so on the recommendations of some friends/enthusiasts I contacted a local Honda specialty shop. I have never had work done at this place before, but it comes highly recommended, and I couldn't find one single bad comment about these guys anywhere on the web. Anyway, I emailed the owner about what I was doing, and this is the response I got: "My experience has been that people who put non-Honda fluid in their transmissions, end up replacing the gearbox. Honda fluid is the only fluid I use and strongly recommend you reconsider using an aftermarket fluid. In case you're wondering, I've been a Honda specialist since 1974 and have owned my own Honda specialty business for over 25 years." So this guy seems to think that D4 is a bad idea (didn't mention Type F at all).

Reading through this thread I can tell you guys have done tons of research on this topic, and probably have a lot more experience in what could/does go wrong with these transmissions. Is this guy totally off base? If so, how can I (politely) show him that he is wrong; and offer a good explanation as to why?

Originally Posted by koshia

I took the dive and did the initial change... I did run into a problem though, I drained roughly 3quarts (1/8 - 1/4 shy) because dealer overfilled, then took out too much the last time -- luckily my tranny didn't burn up.

In any case, my father in law helped and it was very quick; however, when we refilled... we checked the fluid and it didn't seem like it had enough.. ended up adding close to another quart of fluid. I'm hoping this is alright, been driving it ~200 miles, shifts are a lot smoother -- but the lunge shifts do happen.

Waiting for another week/another 300 miles before I do the next flush. Does anybody know if its okay to mix a little more Lightweight on the second refill and go back to the normal ratio on the final flush/refill?

Originally Posted by nokkieny

I Plan on doing a 3x3, 1 month in between.
I plan on using 6 quarts of lightweight 3 regular.

What is the best way to add the two types of oil?
Would adding 2 quarts light and 1 regular each time be the safest bet? I am not extremely interested in finding a sweet spot, but just going about it in the most logical t way so that once the change is complete I wont have to think about it for 60k miles.

Originally Posted by nokkieny

I read that, I just don't like the fact that it would be a higher viscosity than stock and possibly to high on a very cold day? Whereas 1/3 lightweight could only help I suppose.

Originally Posted by tihomirbg

So, don't mix the two?

Originally Posted by the Apostle

I have read a decent portion of this thread. 26 pages is a lot to take in since I have not been keeping up as of late. I was about to do a 3x3 with Redline D4 but after reading more of this thread I am a bit confused. It seems that some people are doing a 3x3 with just D4 or equivelant and some are doing a 50/50, 60/40 mixture with Lightweight/Racing, Etc... I guess my question is this... Can I just do a 3x3 of D4 and call it a day?

My car has 66,000 miles on it and I have changed the ATF on 2 separate occassions. Once at about 25k and again at about 45k.

I have not changed the 3rd and 4th gear switches yet, which I should probbaly do now as well.

What's the best route to follow?

Originally Posted by chayos00

If you have the D4 just stick with that.

Originally Posted by nokkieny

Maybe an abridged guide should be added to the thread, because I don't think anyone cares to read 25 pages.

Originally Posted by jsonkimz

IHC, I take issue with you, sir. You include my post on that ridiculously long multi-quote post when inaccurate deemed my question as "very timely" in the very next post. How dare you. The gloves are off, pal.


I keed, I keed. I understand your point and this thread has definitely gotten out of hand. People need to read. There should be no doubt as to the correct method at this point. I won't hold it against you.

Originally Posted by soulimports

ok i have read most of this thread and am still undecided as to which route i want to go. i am however leaning towards not going with the full racing fluid and doing a 3x3 with 2 d4 and 1 racing each time. i suppose this would be ok? but would i need to add any light weight fluid since i live in nj and it can get pretty cold. in no way am i knocking using the full race fluid but i just dont feel its for me. also are the 3rd and 4th gear switche part numbers the same on the 08 base?

Originally Posted by sleeper22

I just saw this thread. Dammit IHC I didn't see my post in there ...LOL

Originally Posted by I hate cars

Lol. Do at least one quart of your 3x3 with lightweight.... Or just use Amsoil Super Shift which is stock viscosity and still a type F fluid. No mixing needed.