Racing ATF
02-27-2010, 03:35 AM
#41
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Regarding the mixing - I do fully understand what you are asking. I have been thinking about it too. I see no problem with doing the bookkeeping. It will be rather straightforward math involved. As long as we keep diligent records of what we have been adding, we will be able to come up with the overall ratio and be able to maintain it.
I just have not yet taken the time to present the methodology. I will aim to get this posted early next week. Fear not my friend. It will be doable.
Great work Bert on finding that TSB. I had not seen this before. Good google'ing dude.
Regarding the TSB.
It pretty much made my stomach turn (in an angry fashion). That TSB really, really, really makes me want to avoid Amsoil at all cost. I am a big proponent of having a person not shooting themselves in the foot. But with Amsoil, I would be willing to shoot myself in the foot just to avoid them.
The TSB is just long winded example of how too cautious and conservative they are. I failed to see a single reason why a person should not mix any fluids or what harm would happen by mixing the Universal with the SuperShift. To me, it was just a scare tactic based on emotional arguments. No real facts (specific issues and examples) were sited.
Here is what they are saying in a nutshell.
"OBJECTIVE:
To caution individuals about mixing "
TRANSLATION = Our goal is to scare you away from using SuperShift.
"Modifications to increase horsepower
and engine performance can cause slippage in
the automatic transmission. To reduce slippage, some
operators are choosing to use ART or CTG or mix
ART or CTG with ATF,"
TRANSLATION = We realize some crazy people will want to us our SuperShift to increase the clutch holding ability of their trans.
"which does not meet proper
fluid specifications."
TRANSLATION = You should feel like a fool if you use anything other than the properly spec'ed fluid. More scare tactics.
"AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid is a
high performance lubricant for domestic and foreign
automatic transmission fluid applications. It is also formulated
to meet and exceed the performance requirements
for medium and heavy duty applications"
TRANSLATION = Our regular ATF is good enough for you. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"In many instances engine horsepower is being modified
to enhance towing ability and performance. This is being
done through the use of after
market products such as performance chips, turbo pressure
boosters, injectors, etc. Modifications such as
these can increase the demands of the transmission
fluid and the transmission components, however, they
do not necessitate changing the type of transmission
fluid used."
TRANSLATION = All trans are made perfect and no one should alter the oem spec'ed fluid. The oem trans and oem spec'ed fluid is still good enough even if you double your engine output. Oem fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"AMSOIL Supershift Racing Transmission Fluid (ART)
is specifically formulated for automatic transmissions
operating in high horsepower and high torque conditions
found in racing or transmissions that require Ford
F type transmission fluid."
TRANSLATION = Our SuperShift is made for real race cars, not for you or anyone else. Thus don't even think about using our SuperShift. Oem fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"The use of CTG or ART in transmissions used in vehicles
... may cause erratic shift patterns,
chattering noise, or result in possible damage to the
clutches."
TRANSLATION = You might get a firm shifting trans and experience shudder with our SuperShift. There is nothing to be gained by using our SuperShift other than "erratic" shifting. And be afraid, very afraid of *possible* clutch damage.
"RECOMMENDATION:
AMSOIL recommends ...."
TRANSLATION = Our Universal fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"AMSOIL does not recommend ... mixing"
TRANSLATION = We are too cautious and conservative. Our Universal fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
The TSB is just long winded example of how too cautious and conservative they are. I failed to see a single reason why a person should not mix any fluids or what harm would happen by mixing the Universal with the SuperShift. To me, it was just a scare tactic based on emotional arguments. No real facts (specific issues and examples) were sited.
I just have not yet taken the time to present the methodology. I will aim to get this posted early next week. Fear not my friend. It will be doable.
Great work Bert on finding that TSB. I had not seen this before. Good google'ing dude.
Regarding the TSB.
It pretty much made my stomach turn (in an angry fashion). That TSB really, really, really makes me want to avoid Amsoil at all cost. I am a big proponent of having a person not shooting themselves in the foot. But with Amsoil, I would be willing to shoot myself in the foot just to avoid them.
The TSB is just long winded example of how too cautious and conservative they are. I failed to see a single reason why a person should not mix any fluids or what harm would happen by mixing the Universal with the SuperShift. To me, it was just a scare tactic based on emotional arguments. No real facts (specific issues and examples) were sited.
Here is what they are saying in a nutshell.
"OBJECTIVE:
To caution individuals about mixing "
TRANSLATION = Our goal is to scare you away from using SuperShift.
"Modifications to increase horsepower
and engine performance can cause slippage in
the automatic transmission. To reduce slippage, some
operators are choosing to use ART or CTG or mix
ART or CTG with ATF,"
TRANSLATION = We realize some crazy people will want to us our SuperShift to increase the clutch holding ability of their trans.
"which does not meet proper
fluid specifications."
TRANSLATION = You should feel like a fool if you use anything other than the properly spec'ed fluid. More scare tactics.
"AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid is a
high performance lubricant for domestic and foreign
automatic transmission fluid applications. It is also formulated
to meet and exceed the performance requirements
for medium and heavy duty applications"
TRANSLATION = Our regular ATF is good enough for you. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"In many instances engine horsepower is being modified
to enhance towing ability and performance. This is being
done through the use of after
market products such as performance chips, turbo pressure
boosters, injectors, etc. Modifications such as
these can increase the demands of the transmission
fluid and the transmission components, however, they
do not necessitate changing the type of transmission
fluid used."
TRANSLATION = All trans are made perfect and no one should alter the oem spec'ed fluid. The oem trans and oem spec'ed fluid is still good enough even if you double your engine output. Oem fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"AMSOIL Supershift Racing Transmission Fluid (ART)
is specifically formulated for automatic transmissions
operating in high horsepower and high torque conditions
found in racing or transmissions that require Ford
F type transmission fluid."
TRANSLATION = Our SuperShift is made for real race cars, not for you or anyone else. Thus don't even think about using our SuperShift. Oem fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"The use of CTG or ART in transmissions used in vehicles
... may cause erratic shift patterns,
chattering noise, or result in possible damage to the
clutches."
TRANSLATION = You might get a firm shifting trans and experience shudder with our SuperShift. There is nothing to be gained by using our SuperShift other than "erratic" shifting. And be afraid, very afraid of *possible* clutch damage.
"RECOMMENDATION:
AMSOIL recommends ...."
TRANSLATION = Our Universal fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
"AMSOIL does not recommend ... mixing"
TRANSLATION = We are too cautious and conservative. Our Universal fluid is good enough. This is all you need. Because we said so. Now sit down and shutup.
The TSB is just long winded example of how too cautious and conservative they are. I failed to see a single reason why a person should not mix any fluids or what harm would happen by mixing the Universal with the SuperShift. To me, it was just a scare tactic based on emotional arguments. No real facts (specific issues and examples) were sited.
02-27-2010, 05:19 AM
#42
LOL at your version. I too didnt see any technical reasons on why you shouldn't mix the 2 fluids but im still searching. It does sound like there promoting their universal atf as being "good enough" for most applications. However, if what your saying is true, then I cant understand why they want to scare you away from using their type F fluid. They are still a business and they still need to sell there products.
How much different could amsoils universal atf be from redlines d4? How much different could amsoils supershift be from redlines racing atf? I doubt there is much difference and I bet you could use amsoil and redline together.
I was reading about some of the Subaru guys and how they mix a few different fluids in there gearbox. Some were using 2 different amsoil products in there along with other fluiuds. Ive only found people with manual cars doing these mixtures but they have no issues. Could it be much different for the automatic guys?
How much different could amsoils universal atf be from redlines d4? How much different could amsoils supershift be from redlines racing atf? I doubt there is much difference and I bet you could use amsoil and redline together.
I was reading about some of the Subaru guys and how they mix a few different fluids in there gearbox. Some were using 2 different amsoil products in there along with other fluiuds. Ive only found people with manual cars doing these mixtures but they have no issues. Could it be much different for the automatic guys?
02-27-2010, 09:48 AM
#43
Team Owner
IHC,
As always, it is a pleasure to hear your feedback.
LOL about the quietness. Imagine how I would feel if you were not here. Or, if Bert was not here. Without you and Bert, it would be like “cricket, cricket”. LOL.
It is up to us three to pave the way….. “to boldly go were none have gone before.”
I think it is probably like with the turbo. Others are interested, but they are silently watching from the sidelines to see the results first. Once the others see that the “waters are safe, they will dive in too”. Or, they will see us get eaten by the sharks and they will run for their lives as we bleed to death
How is the D4 performing for you? You should see the full effects since you did at least two drains. When I dumped my Z1 and introduced the M1, I took a 15 minute drive after the first drain to mix the fluids. I felt an extremely small difference. After doing the second drain and taking another 15 minute drive to mix the fluids, I felt a huge difference after the second drain. Did a third and a fourth drain, and I felt little additional difference. The bulk of the difference occurred after that second drain. By the way, these four drains were all done back to back in the same day.
As always, it is a pleasure to hear your feedback.
LOL about the quietness. Imagine how I would feel if you were not here. Or, if Bert was not here. Without you and Bert, it would be like “cricket, cricket”. LOL.
It is up to us three to pave the way….. “to boldly go were none have gone before.”
I think it is probably like with the turbo. Others are interested, but they are silently watching from the sidelines to see the results first. Once the others see that the “waters are safe, they will dive in too”. Or, they will see us get eaten by the sharks and they will run for their lives as we bleed to death
How is the D4 performing for you? You should see the full effects since you did at least two drains. When I dumped my Z1 and introduced the M1, I took a 15 minute drive after the first drain to mix the fluids. I felt an extremely small difference. After doing the second drain and taking another 15 minute drive to mix the fluids, I felt a huge difference after the second drain. Did a third and a fourth drain, and I felt little additional difference. The bulk of the difference occurred after that second drain. By the way, these four drains were all done back to back in the same day.
To sum it up, it had 100% ATD. I did 2 drain and refills of the D4. I'm now going to do one drain and fill of the type F (can't remember Redline's brand name for that stuff).
I have a feeling I'm going to stick with a single drain and fill but we'll see.
Something I forgot to mention before is the ATD that came out was thicker than when it went in. I hope it hasn't thickened due to oxidation but it's a little scary when an ATF comes out thicker than it went in. Not a good sign for the fluid. I wish I would've taken a sample for a UOA to see exactly what the fluid is doing. I have lots of confidence in the Redline base stock that it won't oxidize. No clutch material was evident even after letting it settle for a few days. Nor has there ever been any on the dipstick.
In the ATD's favor I have pretty much no metal on the drain magnet. The metal particles seemed to stabilize with very little on the magnet by the third drain and fill many, many miles ago. Then one day I noticed the shifts were getting sloppy. The fluid was black so I changed it. The drain magnet had tons of metal on it. I was worried and couldn't figure out what was going wrong. Then I remembered that I had an axle replaced 6 months prior and on the invoice they had 3 quarts of Z1 listed even though I left them a gallon of Amsoil in the car.
This was my first change since changing out the Z1 and the metal was once again back down to normal. It was amazing just how much extra metal was showing up by introducing just 3 quarts of Z1 into the system for 6 months.
This time around with an awesome fluid, I'm likely going to run it out past 50,000 miles after I change the external filter.
02-27-2010, 10:11 AM
#44
The D4 is doing well so far. I really have nothing to say, it feels exactly the same as the Amsoil ATD except the double bump when putting it into gear is gone. Since it feels pretty much the same I think I'm ready to order the type F fluid, forget the month of testing.
To sum it up, it had 100% ATD. I did 2 drain and refills of the D4. I'm now going to do one drain and fill of the type F (can't remember Redline's brand name for that stuff).
I have a feeling I'm going to stick with a single drain and fill but we'll see.
Something I forgot to mention before is the ATD that came out was thicker than when it went in. I hope it hasn't thickened due to oxidation but it's a little scary when an ATF comes out thicker than it went in. Not a good sign for the fluid. I wish I would've taken a sample for a UOA to see exactly what the fluid is doing. I have lots of confidence in the Redline base stock that it won't oxidize. No clutch material was evident even after letting it settle for a few days. Nor has there ever been any on the dipstick.
In the ATD's favor I have pretty much no metal on the drain magnet. The metal particles seemed to stabilize with very little on the magnet by the third drain and fill many, many miles ago. Then one day I noticed the shifts were getting sloppy. The fluid was black so I changed it. The drain magnet had tons of metal on it. I was worried and couldn't figure out what was going wrong. Then I remembered that I had an axle replaced 6 months prior and on the invoice they had 3 quarts of Z1 listed even though I left them a gallon of Amsoil in the car.
This was my first change since changing out the Z1 and the metal was once again back down to normal. It was amazing just how much extra metal was showing up by introducing just 3 quarts of Z1 into the system for 6 months.
This time around with an awesome fluid, I'm likely going to run it out past 50,000 miles after I change the external filter.
To sum it up, it had 100% ATD. I did 2 drain and refills of the D4. I'm now going to do one drain and fill of the type F (can't remember Redline's brand name for that stuff).
I have a feeling I'm going to stick with a single drain and fill but we'll see.
Something I forgot to mention before is the ATD that came out was thicker than when it went in. I hope it hasn't thickened due to oxidation but it's a little scary when an ATF comes out thicker than it went in. Not a good sign for the fluid. I wish I would've taken a sample for a UOA to see exactly what the fluid is doing. I have lots of confidence in the Redline base stock that it won't oxidize. No clutch material was evident even after letting it settle for a few days. Nor has there ever been any on the dipstick.
In the ATD's favor I have pretty much no metal on the drain magnet. The metal particles seemed to stabilize with very little on the magnet by the third drain and fill many, many miles ago. Then one day I noticed the shifts were getting sloppy. The fluid was black so I changed it. The drain magnet had tons of metal on it. I was worried and couldn't figure out what was going wrong. Then I remembered that I had an axle replaced 6 months prior and on the invoice they had 3 quarts of Z1 listed even though I left them a gallon of Amsoil in the car.
This was my first change since changing out the Z1 and the metal was once again back down to normal. It was amazing just how much extra metal was showing up by introducing just 3 quarts of Z1 into the system for 6 months.
This time around with an awesome fluid, I'm likely going to run it out past 50,000 miles after I change the external filter.
02-27-2010, 10:51 AM
#45
GO RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
Great info. I have never drained my fluid what is the best way to do it?
03-02-2010, 11:41 PM
#46
Safety Car
Thread Starter
UPDATE I did the first installment of the racing fluid tonight.
Drained and added 3 quarts of RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF.
Initial impressions after a 10-minute test drive =
1. Firmer shift ? = No change
2. Shudder ? = No
3. Quicker shifts ? = Yes
Good news. I detected zero shudder. I detected nothing unusual or strange.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts.
Thus I was wrong with this statement below -
I really doubt that the shifts will become much quicker. I think that I had read in the Service Manual that the PCM is programmed to have the shift to occur over a set amount of time. If true, then the fluid would have no way to change the duration of the shift. The PCM is programmed for the shift to occur in x milliseconds. Can’t change that without reprogramming the PCM.
On the other hand, I did perceive that my shifts became much quicker when I switched to M1. So, maybe the shifts will quicken somewhat with the racing fluid too. We will see.
On the other hand, I did perceive that my shifts became much quicker when I switched to M1. So, maybe the shifts will quicken somewhat with the racing fluid too. We will see.
My new theory is that the computer cuts the power to begin the shift. The computer will not resume power until one of the sensors has indicated that the shift has completed. This is just a theory that I pull out of my hat to explain what I see. I can think of no other way of how the shifts could be occurring faster now.
The computer is not programmed to shut the power for a set time duration. My new theory is that the racing fluid allows the shift to complete much quicker. A sensor detects the completed shift and tells the computer that the shift is finished, and the computer reapplies the power. But of course with the racing fluid, the shift is happening much more quickly so that the computer can reapply power much more quickly..... now, it is so quick that I do not perceive a break in the power delivery.
I will post an update on Thursday. By Thursday, I will had a complete commute (morning and afternoon) with the fluid. Whereas, this post is based upon a quick 10-minute test drive.
03-02-2010, 11:44 PM
#47
UPDATE I did the first installment of the racing fluid tonight.
Drained and added 3 quarts of RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF.
Initial impressions after a 10-minute test drive =
1. Firmer shift ? = No change
2. Shudder ? = No
3. Quicker shifts ? = Yes
Good news. I detected zero shudder. I detected nothing unusual or strange.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts.
Thus I was wrong with this statement below -
My new theory is that the computer cuts the power to begin the shift. The computer will not resume power until one of the sensors has indicated that the shift has completed. This is just a theory that I pull out of my hat to explain what I see. I can think of no other way of how the shifts could be occurring faster now.
The computer is not programmed to shut the power for a set time duration. My new theory is that the racing fluid allows the shift to complete much quicker. A sensor detects the completed shift and tells the computer that the shift is finished, and the computer reapplies the power. But of course with the racing fluid, the shift is happening much more quickly so that the computer can reapply power much more quickly..... now, it is so quick that I do not perceive a break in the power delivery.
I will post an update on Thursday. By Thursday, I will had a complete commute (morning and afternoon) with the fluid. Whereas, this post is based upon a quick 10-minute test drive.
03-02-2010, 11:53 PM
#48
Safety Car
Thread Starter
At this point, I am thinking of doing a second installment on Sunday. I am thinking of doing a drain and adding another 3 quarts of RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF. I have the other 3 quarts on-standby.
Hummm... perhaps I need to place another RedLine order tomorrow
Hummm... perhaps I need to place another RedLine order tomorrow
03-03-2010, 07:26 AM
#50
Safety Car
Thread Starter
^ Three quarts of Type F was added last night. The "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" is Type F.
The fluid felt great this morning.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
The fluid felt great this morning.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
03-03-2010, 07:27 AM
#51
GO RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
How do you get it out?
03-03-2010, 08:09 AM
#52
Safety Car
Thread Starter
This link below has instructions.
The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
03-03-2010, 10:22 AM
#53
GO RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
No problem, I figured you missed my question.
Thanks for the link. I have the Manual but did not think to look DOH!
Thanks for the link. I have the Manual but did not think to look DOH!
03-03-2010, 10:43 AM
#54
Safety Car
subscribed.
@I Hate Cars, I was about to switch to Amsoil Universal ATF for my TL-S, but you have me wondering if I should wait to order. Also how many quarts do you think I should order when I do?
I have noticed my car has a bit sloppy shifts, but my car has Z1 and only 1 change that the dealer did a few thousand miles ago. Car has a total of 35k on it. Might be time to put some nice stuff in it, I am just worried about my warranty and the tranny going out.
@I Hate Cars, I was about to switch to Amsoil Universal ATF for my TL-S, but you have me wondering if I should wait to order. Also how many quarts do you think I should order when I do?
I have noticed my car has a bit sloppy shifts, but my car has Z1 and only 1 change that the dealer did a few thousand miles ago. Car has a total of 35k on it. Might be time to put some nice stuff in it, I am just worried about my warranty and the tranny going out.
03-03-2010, 01:36 PM
#56
Team Owner
Amsoil pretty much has to be ordered online from Amsoil unless you can locate an Amsoil dealer in your area. I can't stand their salesmen and sales approach so I prefer to do it online. If you're ordering a large amount it may be beneficial to pay an extra $20 to get dealer pricing. Mine just expired or I would let you have it. I suggest the ATD for best results.
Many local performance shops will carry Redline but it's not likely to turn up at an autoparts store. I get mine from Jegs, their prices are pretty competitive and I usually have it within 3 days.
If you plan on doing extended intervals, both will do but you may be better off with the Redline. The Amsoil thickened slightly on me.
03-03-2010, 03:33 PM
#59
Safety Car
Thread Starter
^ You will need 9 quarts to do the "3x3".
Please see thread below for instructions on doing the "3x3".
The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
Please see thread below for instructions on doing the "3x3".
The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
03-03-2010, 09:19 PM
#62
Team Owner
03-03-2010, 11:19 PM
#64
Safety Car
Thread Starter
IHC,
It's a date dude. A night out at the movies on Saturday. The movies start at 6:41.
I made another RedLine order today.
5 5W20 Motor Oil
3 D4 ATF
2 Racing ATF
2 Lightweight Racing ATF
The 3 qts of D4 is my rescue antidote. Like you said, we need to have 3 qts on standby to do an emergency flush if/when we get too little FM.
You sold me on RedLine. Converting the engine to RedLine too.
Just like we can mix the D4 and Racing ATF to alter to overall level of FM, I plan to mix the Lightweight Racing ATF and the regular Racing ATF to alter the overall viscosity. My plan is to mix 50/50 of the two racing fluids to get a viscosity of around 6 cSt @ 100º C.
I called Dave (RedLine) again today. I asked him if the racing fluid had a complete additive package to be used as a daily driver. Dave said that the racing fluids did contain all of the additives, such as seal conditioners and varnish control. He said that the racing fluid can be used in a daily driving application.
Dave also said it was ok to mix the two Racing fluids to alter the overall viscosity.
Have no fear with doing the first 3 quarts. My shifts have *not* become more firm at all. Zero. Interestingly, the car does have more intense engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
It's a date dude. A night out at the movies on Saturday. The movies start at 6:41.
I made another RedLine order today.
5 5W20 Motor Oil
3 D4 ATF
2 Racing ATF
2 Lightweight Racing ATF
The 3 qts of D4 is my rescue antidote. Like you said, we need to have 3 qts on standby to do an emergency flush if/when we get too little FM.
You sold me on RedLine. Converting the engine to RedLine too.
Just like we can mix the D4 and Racing ATF to alter to overall level of FM, I plan to mix the Lightweight Racing ATF and the regular Racing ATF to alter the overall viscosity. My plan is to mix 50/50 of the two racing fluids to get a viscosity of around 6 cSt @ 100º C.
I called Dave (RedLine) again today. I asked him if the racing fluid had a complete additive package to be used as a daily driver. Dave said that the racing fluids did contain all of the additives, such as seal conditioners and varnish control. He said that the racing fluid can be used in a daily driving application.
Dave also said it was ok to mix the two Racing fluids to alter the overall viscosity.
Have no fear with doing the first 3 quarts. My shifts have *not* become more firm at all. Zero. Interestingly, the car does have more intense engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
03-03-2010, 11:34 PM
#65
Safety Car
Thread Starter
EvoToTL,
I am starting to think the same thing. I am starting to think that I might end up with 100% racing fluid and zero FM.
At this point in time, this is very much experimental stuff. I can *not* recommend for anyone to use racing atf at this point in time. "libert69" is an exception because he is getting a turbo. He has nothing to loss by taking a risk on the racing fluid, and everything to gain.... just to coin a phrase.
Will do on the updates..... you know me by now.....
Me =
+ 
I am starting to think the same thing. I am starting to think that I might end up with 100% racing fluid and zero FM.
At this point in time, this is very much experimental stuff. I can *not* recommend for anyone to use racing atf at this point in time. "libert69" is an exception because he is getting a turbo. He has nothing to loss by taking a risk on the racing fluid, and everything to gain.... just to coin a phrase.
Will do on the updates..... you know me by now.....
Me =
+
03-04-2010, 12:16 PM
#66
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2009
Age: 42
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I have really enjoyed this thread.
I am in Houston same as Inaccurate. I have had my car
(5 AT) for a year, just done 30k on it and odo reads just under 75k. When I bought it they told me they had rebuilt the transmission. I have had no problems and am in traffic for 2hrs a day so im pretty sure it gets pretty hot and needs refreshed!
I looked on bobtheoilguy too and there is so much "amsoil, Maxlife, Redline, Z1 etc" I just wanted to ask, I am on a tighter budget than you guys, but i need to get good fluids into the car.
I am due to change the PS fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant, and AT fluid and wondered in your opinion and given that Houston will soon be Hot as Hell, what do you recommend?
Im also thinking about doing the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches which had the DIY on here recently.
I am in Houston same as Inaccurate. I have had my car
(5 AT) for a year, just done 30k on it and odo reads just under 75k. When I bought it they told me they had rebuilt the transmission. I have had no problems and am in traffic for 2hrs a day so im pretty sure it gets pretty hot and needs refreshed!
I looked on bobtheoilguy too and there is so much "amsoil, Maxlife, Redline, Z1 etc" I just wanted to ask, I am on a tighter budget than you guys, but i need to get good fluids into the car.
I am due to change the PS fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant, and AT fluid and wondered in your opinion and given that Houston will soon be Hot as Hell, what do you recommend?
Im also thinking about doing the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches which had the DIY on here recently.
03-04-2010, 07:40 PM
#68
Team Owner
I have really enjoyed this thread.
I am in Houston same as Inaccurate. I have had my car
(5 AT) for a year, just done 30k on it and odo reads just under 75k. When I bought it they told me they had rebuilt the transmission. I have had no problems and am in traffic for 2hrs a day so im pretty sure it gets pretty hot and needs refreshed!
I looked on bobtheoilguy too and there is so much "amsoil, Maxlife, Redline, Z1 etc" I just wanted to ask, I am on a tighter budget than you guys, but i need to get good fluids into the car.
I am due to change the PS fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant, and AT fluid and wondered in your opinion and given that Houston will soon be Hot as Hell, what do you recommend?
Im also thinking about doing the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches which had the DIY on here recently.
I am in Houston same as Inaccurate. I have had my car
(5 AT) for a year, just done 30k on it and odo reads just under 75k. When I bought it they told me they had rebuilt the transmission. I have had no problems and am in traffic for 2hrs a day so im pretty sure it gets pretty hot and needs refreshed!
I looked on bobtheoilguy too and there is so much "amsoil, Maxlife, Redline, Z1 etc" I just wanted to ask, I am on a tighter budget than you guys, but i need to get good fluids into the car.
I am due to change the PS fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant, and AT fluid and wondered in your opinion and given that Houston will soon be Hot as Hell, what do you recommend?
Im also thinking about doing the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches which had the DIY on here recently.
When I switched over to the Amsoil most over at bitog were telling me my trans would fail quickly. I heard all kinds of horror stories. It still shifts better than stock 80,000 miles later.
03-05-2010, 01:03 AM
#71
Team Owner
Where at Redline, Dave does the e-mails and calls. I forget his field but I *think* it was engineering. Either way, he knows his stuff and isn't afraid to have a real conversation with you and explain things even if they're a little outside of the norm. I've actually seen him recommend other brands for certain applications before which is pretty honorable these days.
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perilousp (01-20-2013)
03-05-2010, 07:32 AM
#72
Safety Car
I went ahead and renewed my dealer status that I had over a year ago expire. I can order it myself now.
03-05-2010, 07:34 AM
#73
Safety Car
After discussing with a few here, I will probably be ordering Amsoil ATF as it's proven on the TL. I just don't want to take a chance on something that people haven't tried for very long. 80k of miles is enough proof for me that "I Hate Cars" did.
03-05-2010, 02:15 PM
#74
Safety Car
Thread Starter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UxL95AUFoU
UPDATE
I have driven 180 miles since the first introduction of the racing fluid. My current impression remains the same as my initial impression.
The shifts did not increase in firmness. There is zero shudder. I detected nothing bad.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts. Please see linked video.
Interestingly, the car does have more engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
STATUS
---------
Odometer = 54560
Previous mixture =
100 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Changes =
Single drain
Refill with 3 qts RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
New mixture =
40 % RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
60 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Overall viscosity =
cSt @ 40º C = 31.1
cSt @ 100º C = 6.4
UPDATE I have driven 180 miles since the first introduction of the racing fluid. My current impression remains the same as my initial impression.
The shifts did not increase in firmness. There is zero shudder. I detected nothing bad.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts. Please see linked video.
Interestingly, the car does have more engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
STATUS
---------
Odometer = 54560
Previous mixture =
100 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Changes =
Single drain
Refill with 3 qts RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
New mixture =
40 % RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
60 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Overall viscosity =
cSt @ 40º C = 31.1
cSt @ 100º C = 6.4
03-05-2010, 09:49 PM
#76
wow thanks inaccurate for the video! it made a big difference! when ur tranny is full of type F it might shift faster than the GTR! lol jk! im definitely sold on the type f. im going to put my order in soon. make another video after a week of ur next drain and. i loved how long the video was also thanks again
03-05-2010, 10:04 PM
#77
Team Owner
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UxL95AUFoU
UPDATE
I have driven 180 miles since the first introduction of the racing fluid. My current impression remains the same as my initial impression.
The shifts did not increase in firmness. There is zero shudder. I detected nothing bad.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts. Please see linked video.
Interestingly, the car does have more engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
STATUS
---------
Odometer = 54560
Previous mixture =
100 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Changes =
Single drain
Refill with 3 qts RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
New mixture =
40 % RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
60 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Overall viscosity =
cSt @ 40º C = 31.1
cSt @ 100º C = 6.4
UPDATE I have driven 180 miles since the first introduction of the racing fluid. My current impression remains the same as my initial impression.
The shifts did not increase in firmness. There is zero shudder. I detected nothing bad.
The only thing that I noticed was quicker shifts. Finally, my cars sounds like it has a normal (non computerized) transmission when it shifts. I no longer can perceive a cut in power during shifts. Please see linked video.
Interestingly, the car does have more engine braking when the PCM decides to engage this feature. Another bonus because I love engine braking.
I am looking forward to adding another three quarts of the "RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF" this weekend.
STATUS
---------
Odometer = 54560
Previous mixture =
100 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Changes =
Single drain
Refill with 3 qts RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
New mixture =
40 % RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF
60 % Mobil 1 Synthetic
Overall viscosity =
cSt @ 40º C = 31.1
cSt @ 100º C = 6.4
In fact, the shifts can almost feel not as firm with less FM. What I remember from the Z1 is the shifts taking long enough that the throttle re-opens as the shift is almost complete resulting in a slight surge. It's as if their attempt to make a butter smooth shift with the super friction modified fluid backfired with the DBW's logic.
I think this if awesome. If we can cut shift time in half which is totally possible going from Z1 to the type-F, it's almost the same as cutting the number of shifts over the life of the trans by half resulting in much less wear. I won't go so far as to say twice the life but it should be a significant percentage.
And of course the main goal is the extra holding power for the high hp, high torque engines which I think will help greatly. I'm trying to go racing again and it's taking all of my money on my other car but I really want to do this turbo kit and develop a reliable auto trans solution.
03-07-2010, 03:19 AM
#78
I made a couple of videos like Inaccurate did so you guys can compare the shifts. I have 100% amsoil synthetic ATF right now. NO type F fluid at the moment. Maybe Im blind but I dont see any difference in shift speed between me and him. I made a comparison video between Inaccurates tach and my tach. Its a 2nd gear WOT pull to redline. I know his car is faster then mine so I tried to time each pull so the trans shifted to 3rd at the same time. You can see that he gets to 6500rpms faster. Inaccurate on the left, me on the right
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P8HFHhkWCg
Heres just a few different vids so you guys can compare
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azNTTQRBLKA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzHBM8ZD1KU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-zWQi_YKvM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Los9ZkuZYLI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P8HFHhkWCg
Heres just a few different vids so you guys can compare
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azNTTQRBLKA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzHBM8ZD1KU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-zWQi_YKvM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Los9ZkuZYLI
03-07-2010, 03:50 AM
#80
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Bert,
Good job on making the vids. I am glad to see you starting to make vids. And, looks like you got some vid editing software too. I am for sure looking forward to those turbo videos.
To me, the most telling aspect is listening to your car shift. It is very easy for the ear to detect that oem cut/pause in power. And, I agree that yours sounds identical to me. Wow. I am really having second thoughts about that Mobil1 Synthetic fluid that I was using.
So, you have the Amsoil Universal?
What did you do the get our tachs to match? Looks like your car pulls as quickly as mine? Did you strip a 1000 lbs off of your car? 
Good job on making the vids. I am glad to see you starting to make vids. And, looks like you got some vid editing software too. I am for sure looking forward to those turbo videos.
To me, the most telling aspect is listening to your car shift. It is very easy for the ear to detect that oem cut/pause in power. And, I agree that yours sounds identical to me. Wow. I am really having second thoughts about that Mobil1 Synthetic fluid that I was using.
So, you have the Amsoil Universal?
What did you do the get our tachs to match? Looks like your car pulls as quickly as mine?
Did you strip a 1000 lbs off of your car?