2006 TL..need quick hp gain..something not to expensive..just so i can beat a 06 g35 sedanX...maybe a Intake??..let me kno some good types??[COLOR=Blue][FONT=Arial]

 

well....if you really wanna beat this guy up without spending money, you could probably take off your seats first..

 

Cheapest would be CAI $220-$240 but wont make you take a G35x. Would be a close race. Both right around 6 seconds 0-60

 

probably need to get a cai, take off some weight, pulleys..... cheapest bang for the buck would probably nitrous....

but weight reduction, cai, pulleys and exhaust should work.

or you can just get nitrous by itself

 

Anyone know anything about Fujita Cold Air Intake? Saw on ebay.

 

go AEM

 

I love the cheap, fast, and easy HP gain quest.

 

CAI and UR pully

All for under $400(?)

 

Here are the best and cheapest bangs for the buck for the 04+ TL:

Cold Air Intake (AEM, Injen, FUJITA) $215-$230
UR Crank Pulley $175
Comptech Rear Sway Bar $115-$125
Comptech Short Shifter (M/T) $55

 

CAI, underdrive pulley, procats, and a 100 wet shot. If my car can handle a 50 shot with a blower than a 100 shot will be fine!!

 

CAI, underdrive pulley, procats, and a 100 wet shot. If my car can handle a 50 shot with a blower than a 100 shot will be fine!! That will put you in front of all N/A g35's.

 

How much more HP will CAI, Procats Header and UR Pulley give u at the wheels for 5AT? Would love to see each item listed with their HP gain! Thanks a lot!

 

Probably 25hp?

 

what exactly does the ur crank pulley do? as in positives and negatives
are you guys talking about underdrive pulleys or stock sized pulleys?

 

The Unorthodox Racing crank pulley is lighter than the stock pulley ~1 lb vs ~12 lbs ( I believe that is what it was when I weighed it). It also slightly underdrives the accessories to free up some more power but most of the power gain is a result of the reduction of weight. So the vehicle revs up quicker.

 

Is this pulley designed for a 06 TL? If so what is the Con to having this? The car is the family car and goes on a lot of road trips. Will this still be okay to do. I am just looking for some more horsepower. what else can I do, is a supercharger the only way to get the horses up to 300 hp? I know these are a lot of questions but i am new to this.

Thanks

 

Yes the pulley is designed for your vehicle. There are no cons that I know of. If you want to get to 300 crank hp just get the intake, pulley, and high flow cats and you will be over that.

 

Does quicker revs mean quicker gasoline consumption? I am still researching on the possible cons on doing the install

 

can the crank pulley be a DIY project if you have some mechanical skills?

 

It's not an easy install. The hardest part is breaking that crank pulley bolt. And when and if you do break it loose brace yourself b/c it sounds like a gun went off.

 

The stock pulley I believe has a harmonic dampener, or something to that effect. Will the aftmkt one ruin bearings?

 

The stock pulley on the TL is NOT a harmonic damper. It has a rubber piece in the pulley do reduce NVH, Noise Vibration Harshness, attributed to the spinning of the accessory pulleys. However, it doesn't do much. In fact after I installed the pulleys in my car I noticed the engine ran smoother.

 

I was thinking about doing the CRANK PULLEY as well. I read several threads stating that it underdrives the a/c and stereo. I have stock stereo. Will the underdrive cause a noticable difference for the stereo and/or air conditioning?

For those who have already installed the pulley: Did you feel the HP gain? How is the a/c? How is your stock stereo doing? Any negative effects?

 

Check the other thread. I answered your question there.

 

where can i get a UR Crank Pulley for my 06 TL 5AT?
how much will it cost to get it shipped to me?
what name brand is it?
does the name brand matter?
will it void my warrenty if i get it installed?

 

, search. try ebay, site vendors, , (under some circumstances)

 

Lmao..thanks..

 

I forgot to add it is made by unorthodox racing

 

[QUOTE=ViNhXoNxAcuraTL]where can i get a UR Crank Pulley for my 06 TL 5AT?
how much will it cost to get it shipped to me?
what name brand is it?QUOTE]

Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley - Click me

 

would cai void my warranty?

 

It will not, however if your engine is gonna get damaged as a result of your installing CAI (hydrolocking for instance) you will not be covered by the warranty for the engine rebuilding

 

If someones car were to hydrolock, couldnt you take out the plugs and suck the water out, then put the plugs back in, then start the engine?

 

What about snow? Sounds stupid, but wouldn't it effect the CAI since its so low to the ground on the TL?

 

About Hydrolock


Hydrostatic lock, hydraulic lock or hydrolock occurs when liquids, typically water, enter an engine cylinder. This can occur from a coolant, oil or fuel leak, but the chief cause is drawing water into the engine through the air induction system (airbox & filter, ducting, throttle body or carburetor, intake manifold). Internal combustion engines (spark or compression ignition) operating on a two-stroke or four-stroke cycle must employ a compression stroke to compress the charge (usually an air/fuel mixture). Liquids are incompressible; the presence of a liquid in the engine cylinder during the compression stroke generates destructively high cylinder pressures.

Abnormally high cylinder pressures can bend and break pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, crankshafts and ruin bearings and can crack or break cylinder heads and engine blocks. Small amounts of liquids may pass through an engine cycle without damage, but volumes exceeding 40cc (1.4 fluid ounces, <3 tablespoons) will cause many engines to develop cylinder pressures well in excess of 1000psi. A larger volume of water, up to the combustion chamber volume (usually 60cc to 100cc), will generate increasingly high cylinder pressure during the completion of the compression stroke. Volumes of water which exceed the combustion chamber volume will "stop" a running engine through true hydrostatic lock. Something expensive always bends or breaks when this happens.

Hydrolock may occur while the engine is running, the work of the compression stroke being supplied by engine's rotational inertia. Or a liquid may leak into the cylinder while the engine is being stored; the work of the compression stroke will be supplied by the starter motor.

Hydrolock is not a new problem, but it only affected certain applications. Older American made cars, particularly with V-configuration engines, often employed an air intake location which was high in the engine compartment. Because of the reduced tendency of these older American cars to hydrolock, it has not been in the forefront of design consideration and is not a household term.

Most newer, fuel injected cars have the air intake located low in the engine compartment. The objective of this low air intake is to draw cool air into the engine. Unfortunately, when driving through sufficiently deep standing or splashing water, engine vacuum from the intake stroke will suck water into the engine, particularly if the intake is submerged.

The cost to repair hydrolock damage begins at about $1000.00, and only goes sky high from there. Repair bills in excess of $35,000 have been reported in high-end passenger cars. Racing engines can cost twice that amount. Many new cars have been recognized as having poor designs to prevent hydrolock. Even some Four-Wheel-Drive pickup trucks and SUV's have been identified as having particularly high incidence rates of hydrolock. Manufacturers' warranties do not cover hydrolock engine damage, stating that the cause of operator error. One SUV manufacturer states the maximum vehicle speed through standing water to be 5 mph; hydrolock occurring at speeds in excess of 5 mph is judged to be operator error. The repair may be covered by a vehicle's Collision/Comprehensive insurance.

 

found this in another forum does this guy have any valid point(s)?

http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...&page_number=1


notyper

Re: 04 TL with AEM CAI+UR pulley set-awesome!! (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2006 23:20
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I'm sorry, but you're just parroting the same propoganda UR posts on their website and no one has been able to back it up.

You need to contemplate and try and answer this question - Why would an engine computer need time to acclimate to a change in rotating mass on the crankshaft? What does it see differently that requires changes?

I'll give you a little tidbit to get you started - any changes the engine computer makes after a reset or the addition of a new performance altering part (meaning one which alters airflow, fuel delivery or ignition timing/knock sensor activation) happen very quickly - within a few miles. Certainly within the first day of driving.

You should also wonder why companies selling you lighweight flywheels (which have a much larger moment of inertia and a much bigger effect when weight is reduced than a little crank pulley) don't tell you that you have to wait a few hundred miles to get results.

Can a lightweight and underdriven crank pulley free up some power and improve acceleration? Yes, mildly, although all the professional racecars we work on use heavier fluidamper type pulleys which also produce power (interesing, eh?). However, the amount of power is miniscule at best. The powersteering pump uses about 5hp maximum at high rpm. Underdriving it by 10-20% will free up 1 hp. The A/C compressor (when not active) consumes even less. The actual weight savings on the crank pulley is on the order of a few lbs of weight centered as tightly on the crankshaft as possible. By comparison, the crank weighs closer to 50 lbs, the flywheel weighs close to 20 lbs and the clutch another 10+ lbs. So you're talking about a weight reduction on the order of a few % and a MoI reduction that is exponentially (the square root to be precise) smaller.

I've tested underdrive pulleys on a variety of Honda engines - most were from UR. The best results we ever obtained saw a gain of 2.5 hp - barely outside the margin of error on the dyno (+/- 0.3%). Some cars gained nothing, even after driving 500 miles and coming back and retesting.

Lightweight is generally good, and underdriving accessories is not a problem for most cars in most environments - so no harm done. But the gains are not significant, and on cars with rubber dampers on the crank pulley (read - all Honda/Acura cars), going to a solid pulley increases vibration and can lead to earlier component failure. Mitsubishi Eclipse owners can tell you plenty of stories about misfire codes generated on their cars by UR pulleys.

SC

 

thanks. i guess i am just going to have to enjoy my car as is.

 

2lbs Vs 8

 

valid yes accurate no...my car saw 8 hp

 

oh okay...so 8hp with the error margin of -+3%?

 

and so then you're saying my gain could have also been 11 hp