Im extremely interested after debating months on either to get this mod or not because of emissions, but i'll take it off when I need it inspected etc..

My questions are:

HP gains? What would I have on top of my current: AEM Intake, P2R Spacer, ATLP Jpipe V2, RV6 Test Pipe, ATLP Base Exhaust?

And what's this mean?:
"Do not use with incomplete innovative mount kit will lead to failure."

I hear this is the most bang for the buck, how so?

When do these ship if I order them?

Thanks everyone!

 

http://www.ecrater.com/p/9886605/v3-...e-kit-moved-to

Is this virtually all I'd need? And what do you believe to have this installed would cost? Is it that hard for a mechanic?

HFPC? Whats this?


Sorry to unload all the Qs but I honestly dont know anything about this mod. All the others I did myself.

 

With your current mod, I'd get a ECU to accomodate all your afr's in check as I bet right now they are already out of wack during WOT. Have you dyno'd the car? With this mod, you'll be running lean as you should be already.
First of all, if you've done your homework, this mod should give you hp gains above a Jpipe and for what it's worth.
They ship just like any of the parts you bought/got, if they are in stock.

Putting it this way as an example:
If you have a header in a 4 banger, and the header is hitting the subframe because your engine is moving (while downshifting or launching) , you can break the flex pipe in other words. To cure this, motor or engine mounts will help your engine and your parts to longativaty.

Now the question is to you to decide.

 

This is a mandatory DIY mod. Because 99.9% of the professional mechanics will not remove an oem cat. Actually, most mechanics will get PO by you just asking

 

So what you're saying is, make sure get some new engine mounts to create less torque under acceleration ETC?

Curious how do people pass inspections? Or is there no other way, i'll have to take it off every inspection?

RV6 Performance i'd like for you to chime in some information if you see this.

I'd like to make sure I have the most ideal set up for this car.

Ive heard every DYNO varies and honestly I live near Woodstock, NY 100 miles out of NYC and I haven't seen a single place that'd Dyno it close to me. :P

I estimate off of similar TL-S 6MT with the same mods generally. But we all know each car varies. ETC. Thanks for the responses so far!

 

bump

 

pcd is best bang for bug and the v3 of rv6 is stronger and warranty !! hfpc is the best choice for you to minimize the rasp !!! hfpc have 200 each cell !! hp gain between some members are 12 to 20 whp for pcd and little down with hfpc by 3-4 whp !!

http://rv6-performance.com/

 

I'll try to answer your questions.
my state and county, dont require a sniffer, but it does require a test of the ECU.
With the PCD's, you have to use a defouler. if you dont, you'll get a check engine light.
I odnt have a check engine light, but as soon as you plug in and OBDII reader, it will throw a code for the O2 sensors.
lets just say I got hooked up, and my vehicle passed inspections.


with my mods; rv6 v3 pcds and rv6 v3 jpipe, I made 241hp with my base 6MT.
I gained a solid 15-18hp and like 12-15tq over a stock 6mt TL.



at least ask a question.

 

Oops, I was trigger happy.
I made 13more peak hp and 18 more peak torque
than a stock 6mt TL

 

bump was to get his question answered...I was curious
I'd also like someone from RV6 to comment

 

OP if you are worry about emissions than go with the HFPC. The front is relatively easy but the back is a pain in the ass.

 

Shouldn't this thread be bumped ?

 

Justin, remember...those were peak gains. Look how much you gained throughout the whole powerband. You gained over 30wtq from 2.5-4K RPM and 25whp at 5K. Insane gains.