Ok guys got it in feels real nice. Intake has a unique sound now and the car is much much smoother. I think in a couple days it will only improve.

Questions-

1. How snug should the new pulley go on? I cleaned off the post and even lubbed up the pulley didnt slide on easily as the old slid off. Then again I did the install after about 1 hour commute home so the old parts were very warm.

2. I went with the as tight as you can get it with the blue lock tight on it. Should I be worried about it coming off.

 

The way i put the new pulley on was I set it on straight then I just tightened the bolt and it pulled it all the way in.

 

Guessing you are talking about a crank pulley?
The torque is something like 160 - 180 foot pounds!!!
A special tool to hold things stopped while blasting away with the air gun is
the usual method

 

The crank pulley bolt should be torqued down to 181 ft lbs of tq. If you have an A/T you need to get into the service port and hold the flex plate in place so you can torque down the bolt. If you have a 6 spd, put it in 6th gear and get someone to push down the brake and then torque it down.

 

Can someone tell me where the service port is or a pic or diagram would be great. What do i hold it with a screw driver or something else?

 

do not use UR, after years past the wheel will mess up the car, I have a few friends that used unorthodox and said that it messed up there cars.........
~Jason

 

How did it messed up your friends car. What happen.

 

Here we go again. There are huge discussions about this with no real proof that this is true.

 

Mere rumors without actual type of car, years driven, type of driving etc
Any of them TL owners- probably not or they would be members here

 

You know, I just got my pulley a couple weeks ago and was planning on putting it on this coming week, but wanted feedback first. I'm a little nervous about installing the UR for fear that it will screw things up. I figure I'm gonna give it a try for a few thousand miles and if i notice anything, I'll have the dealer take it off and put the stock back on.

 

Are these the same friends that helped you install your supercharger and wired your ACM incorrectly AND arbitrariliy decided you didn't need to use the crushed fuel pressure regulator?

 

So what you're trying to say here Kennedy, is that we shouldn't listen to anything Aznpersuasion has to say?

 

I'm saying that if it's the same friends that are making these statements, then yes, by all means, don't listen.

Other than random wild and unsubstantiated statements (like above) on forums like these, show me a V6 that was damaged with a pulley.

 

Probably ones only "torqued" by hand and running loose
181 foot pounds!!!
wheel lugs are 80- you do the math

Josh- Excelerate- gonna tell us what to put in the 5AT to hold engine still? HELLLLLP!!!!!

 

Mines torqued by habd too... How do you tighten it to proper torques specs? I tried the 6th gear with helper sitting on the brakes, but that's no good... the engine rotates a bit as the pressure build...

The OEM pulley requires a special tool that fits inside the pulley, this tool is used to secure the pulley shaft so the bolt can be tightened. There's no cutout on the UR pulley for this tool...

 

In case anyone is curious, here is a pic of the special tool.

 

With a helper on the brakes of a MT car- the compressor cranked up full to 180 psi and the 1/2 inch air gun set to max- you may get close to 181

There must be something specific to stick in the inspection port on AT

Josh! WHERE are you with the answer!!!!

 

No way I'm using an impact gun to tighten that bolt... That's bad news.

 

One question.....where'd you get that tool and how can I get my hands on it?!? Is it just something that autozone rents out? If I can get my hands on it, I'll install it this weekend.

 

They're about 30 bucks. Just do a google search on honda pulley tool.

 

This tool only is used to install the stock pulley...
It doesn't help install the UR lightweight pulley... That's the problem I'm describing. There's no good method or tool to secure the UR pulley while tightening the bolt.

 

Kennedy

If you object to the air gun- dont ever look at the car when its being worked on at the shop
We put everything together with air guns- I may have mis-used the words
~impact gun~ sorry
I meant a 1/2 inch drive air compressor powered nut installing device- not the death rattle impact thingy tool for breaking stuff loose

 

Has anyone tried CALLING UR and seeing what they recommend?

 

I asked UR, for 6MT, 6th gear/friend

 

I called UR when I was installing my crank pulley, they had no direct answer on how to tighten it to the required spec (181 ft/ibs). They told me an impact gun should be arite, had it for almost a year and I have no problems

 

That's why I do all my own work... "noone cares about your stuff more than you".

 

I agree 100%. I could go on but it ain't worth it.

 

Doing your own work is great idea and I do everything I have correct tool for at home

I wonder just how much torque you were able to get with just hand tightened?

Put the lug wrench on a wheel and give it a test push/pull- they should be 80 foot pounds
Now compare to what you applied to the all critical crank pulley retaining nut
Think its anywhere close to 181 ft lbs?
The only torque wrench I even saw that was even big enought to measure with
was 4 feet long and owned by a tire shop for RV rims/tires
Same place wasnt bothering to check standard car tires- reason given- oh the torque stick breaks if we go over the amount-
WRONG!!!!!!!!!!
Never trust those things either!!!

 

You know, I wouldn't worry about hand torquing things down, because with a big enough bar you can create tons of torque (simple physics guys). The only problem comes when the thing you are trying to torque down is rotating the same way. Let me put it this way, I've snapped stationary 1" steel bolts with a regular box end wrench and my hands.....doesn't take a whole lot.

 

Nice observation but not relative to the point at hand
Just how many people own a 4 foot long bar!
My analogy was to demonstrate the total amount of force we are trying to achieve

 

Firstly, UR does not recommend using an impact gun to torque the pulley down. You may use one to take the pulley off if you wish but not to torque it down. If you have no other means (and what I surmise 90% of shops do), then you can gun it down. The fear is that either you have overtorqued it and damaged the aluminum pulley or worse the threads in the crank or that you have not torqued it down enough and it comes loose. If you have a M/T it shoudl be enough to put it into 6th gear and have someone press the brakes. If you have an A/T you are looking to hold the flex plate in place. I don't have a picture but if on the driver side of the j-pipe there is a plate that can be removed and the flex plate is behind there. There is a tool Honda manufacturesr to hold it in place or you stick a crow bar in there and hold it in place while using a torque wrench to torque it down to 181 ft lbs of tq.

 

So why do so many 1/2 drive torque wrenches go to 250ft lbs and are just over 2ft in length?

80ft lbs isn't all that much in my opinion. I was routinely tightening the lug nuts a lot more than that when it didn't matter using a breaker bar compared to what I feel torquing down the nuts on the alloy wheels using a metered wrench.

The only place I saw 4ft bars was when I worked on a farm and had to remove tractor wheels.

 

So find someone to hold the crowbar as Josh said and pull on your big tool till your happy!

 

I agree. I was afraid of this big nut at first. But, after having experience with this nut, I learned that 181 ft/lbs is nothing. This nut is torqued to 181 ft/lbs. Like KN_TL said, I used my Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten it to 181 ft/lbs. It was MUCH easier than I had thought and feared. However, I do think that that it would be a huge problem to keep the crankshaft from turning while trying to put 181 ft/lbs onto the pulley nut. The easiest way (specualtion on my part) would be to use a pry bar to hold the flexplate as "Excelerate" stated. This is how I use to do it on small-block chevys.

 

Great pic of axle nut- how does that apply to tightening of the UR crankshaft pulley?

 

Because you made it sound like that 181 ft/lbs required a "4 feet long" torque wrench. And, to me, you were implying that 181 ft/lbs was something to fear unless a person owned a monster-size (4 feet long) wrench. I wanted to refute your statement. And, I refuted your statement by illustrating my practical experience with tightening something to the same 181 ft/lbs.

 

And all I was saying was that recently I was at the tire store and saw the giant torque wrench and casually asked- whats that for? RVs they said.
Then they proceeded to attempt installation of my wheel with a torque stick until I put a stop to that, and explained to the guy how to do the correct 3 step method to prevent possible damage to my very expensive rotors.
The very reason 80 equal foot lbs is critical on our cars!!- shall I point out where your statement about wheel torque not important except alloy wheels is flawed- or can we just play nice??

 

I am only concerned that the average person here with a 1 foot long 100 lb torque wrench they normally use only to check the wheels, do damage to themself or the engine.

If you have the correct tools- anything is just bolts

 

The thing about warped rotors is having equal torque on each nut.

Read my statement again. I said WHEN IT DIDN'T MATTER. it was of lesser importance when there were drum brakes all around. If you are really 47 years old, you'd know that.

 

I was raised with race cars and airplanes
Proper torque has always been important to me on every bolt

Did you know we do actually have drum brakes on our Tls??