Project Sleeper '05 TL 3.5 heads and 3.7 internals
#1
Project Sleeper '05 TL 3.5 heads and 3.7 internals
So I've been off the grid on this site for awhile. If any of you remember I did the 3.7 manifold swap and my zdx throttle body swap on my 05 TL back a while back... anyways. I recently bought a set of 3.5 heads. They were milled for 12:1 compression, port and polished, with 5 angle valve job...It was 500 for the pair. There is couple things missing. Vtec pin that locks the lobes together, Spring valves, retainers, and the cams. Has all the valves in place still... Also got a hold of 3.7 internals crank rods and pistons. It got warranted out for oil consumption. So I know I need at least new piston rings sets for all the pistons... the crank perfect. But needs new mains and I don't know what color of mains yet. Also the connecting rod bearings...this is my first official build... I will take my time and get things right. So I need a lil guidance.. any advice would be awesome. Anything would help. I don't want to go turbo or super. I know I'm not gonna get 350 and above. But I'll be happy. This is what I want... thanks for taking the time to read all this.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (12-04-2014)
#3
The following users liked this post:
tommy97132 (12-05-2014)
#5
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#9
I will definitely will be following this build, best of luck Tommy!
#10
A proper turbo or supercharger setup is way more efficient, cost-friendly and reliable for daily driving. The only way to get HP out of an all-motor build is by running high compression. I've never seen a high compression motor that's reliable.. they always blow.
#11
If you can stay conservative a nice FI setup with regular maintenance will be reliable, problem is people cut corners, HP costs money no matter how you slice it.
Compression is only a part of the recipe for all motor and going with 3.7 internals he has another part of the recipe, add a cam with a valvetrain to handle the new profile and nice flowing heads with intake and your in buisness. Don't for get fueling, tuning, adjustable cam gears and exhaust. The engines you've probably seen are poorly built with a crappy tune or no tune at all.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (12-05-2014)
#13
$5000 for a S/C that gives you 80whp is wack to me.... Turbo and lose all the reliability.... Im partial bias to NA anyways... Could just 75 shot N2o... Thats most cost efficient
#14
#15
Yes. I got them from a buddy of mine. He had 2500$ in head work. He knows I'm gonna put them to use and not just sell them and make a profit. He also gave me the 3.7 internals for 200$. He practically gave me a head start. For that. I'm not gonna fail at this build
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (12-05-2014)
#16
exactly. But again. I want reliability. Going force induction will do wear and tear far sooner then if I go naturally aspirated. I want a build that will last me as long the car itself will last.
#17
That all depends on what parts are being used and who's doing the work my friend. My turbo Accord was a more reliable vehicle than most people's modded NA cars I seen and most of its parts are 100% custom.
The following users liked this post:
thisaznboi88 (12-05-2014)
The following users liked this post:
tommy97132 (12-06-2014)
#19
#20
I am not going to sway you on what you want to build; you can still have a reliable boosted car if its done properly.
#21
alright back on topic. I just wanted to know why his not going boost. His getting the parts for cheap so yeah. that his reasoning. Back to the build no more talk of boost
The following users liked this post:
tommy97132 (12-06-2014)
#22
Thats the thing... 99.9999999% seem to not have a "properly" done boost setup...
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (12-08-2014)
#23
Many people learn on the j-series that there's not much power potential left in them if using anything less than mid sized cams. And then, after investing the gobs of money that could've went into forced induction, you're left with a motor producing no more than 330hp tops...with stock or mild cams. Sure that's decent power but not everyone understands that anything above that will require bigger cams, increased rev limit, strengthened bottom end (due to rev limit), possible head machining for bigger cams, full (custom) exhaust, injectors, tuning....the list goes on.
Unless you're okay with a max of 330hp due to the financial burden of the necessary work/parts to make above that, consider forced induction. Otherwise, you will spend lots of money chasing hard gains from an engine limited almost entirely by its camshafts design.
Unless you're okay with a max of 330hp due to the financial burden of the necessary work/parts to make above that, consider forced induction. Otherwise, you will spend lots of money chasing hard gains from an engine limited almost entirely by its camshafts design.
The following users liked this post:
tommy97132 (12-07-2014)
The following 3 users liked this post by justnspace:
The following 2 users liked this post by yungone501:
justnspace (12-07-2014),
Slpr04UA6 (12-07-2014)
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-07-2014)
The following 3 users liked this post by thisaznboi88:
The following 2 users liked this post by AccordFlex:
justnspace (12-07-2014),
Slpr04UA6 (12-07-2014)