Ported/Polished Upper Intake Manifold and Runners!
Then Ill be goin to town shortly man
11-13-2011, 12:02 AM
#325
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finally Andy is active on Azine 
11-14-2011, 02:58 AM
#327
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While ur at it might just do the springs/retainers swap so you can redline at 8K rpm 
11-14-2011, 06:58 AM
#328
Safety Car
No need for springs or retainers for the oem Hype-S cam. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time nor money on such an effort.
Why would a person want to spin the motor to 8k with an oem cam? To slow down? .... because that is what the person would be accomplishing by spinning an oem cam to 8k. Might as well use the brakes since that is what the brakes are designed for.
Don't go using aftermarket spring, retainers, and keepers if it can be avoided. Don't be doing it just for bragging rights. These valvetrain components are highly stressed pieced. It is somewhat common for aftermarket valvetrain pieces to break (aka, "dropping a valve") and destroy the engine in the process. And, I ain't talking about Chinese eBay stuff either. Well known name brand stuff are prone to break too. When a person begins unnecessarily switching stuff to aftermarket is when a person learns to respect the reliability of oem pieces.
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11-14-2011, 07:18 AM
#329
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^^^ 
you always make a point and make me laff....i read and read and i think i know it and then u come along LOL....
Thanks bro....its always good to get challenged on what you know and lose....it helps you learn more.....
you always make a point and make me laff....i read and read and i think i know it and then u come along LOL....
Thanks bro....its always good to get challenged on what you know and lose....it helps you learn more.....
11-14-2011, 07:41 AM
#331
This is one of the few videos of my UA6 5AT which i ever recorded. It is on some local desolate roads at 2am. You can hear the came lope at idle only in the rattling keys since my car was so sound deadened. This is simply to show the low powerband of the car. 60ft times were 2.2 flat. Id say its a pretty well engineered cam, even on an auto. No brake boost issuss or other bull. My buddy and i run the stage1 and stage2 cams, the difference being that my 5AT robbed so much power that this stage 1 had me by a few horsepower and a good 200lb weight advantage (from the scales). I have since purchased a UA7 6MT and am completing my build with that engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1NL...e_gdata_player
[up]
i guess i have to believe swoosh that his car is pretty fast
11-14-2011, 08:05 AM
#332
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am telling you man....i might drive down to OH to meet Andy when am in the US....
11-14-2011, 08:14 AM
#334
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^^^ hahha....i might be driving my girls lexus is am just going down to meet him and see his ride....
if I am going to get some installs done then will remove my car from the "storage" insurance plan and drive her down....
either way your more than welcome to join....
and no Chi-town is not on the way....STL is
if I am going to get some installs done then will remove my car from the "storage" insurance plan and drive her down....
either way your more than welcome to join....
and no Chi-town is not on the way....STL is
11-14-2011, 08:25 AM
#336
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^^^ get on gtalk....you have my gmail id....am usually on ALLL DAY LOL....
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veggiemonster (11-14-2011)
11-14-2011, 10:33 AM
#337
Three Wheelin'
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Yep, the trap speed of 103 is enough to show that the horsepower is there but what was lacking was the final drive ratio of the 5AT (thus, my upgrade). This car pulls as if it has a small turbo up top...utterly amazing. Cant wait to finish up the full mods and interior swap this month. Hate taupe!
11-14-2011, 12:28 PM
#338
The Track Terror
So I guess the questions then would be:
Would the stage 1 Bisimoto cams be a good compromise between daily driveability and decent performance?
What kind of tuning, if any, would be needed?
And would upgraded valve springs and retainers be necessary?
Would the stage 1 Bisimoto cams be a good compromise between daily driveability and decent performance?
What kind of tuning, if any, would be needed?
And would upgraded valve springs and retainers be necessary?
11-14-2011, 05:42 PM
#340
Mom why is there two?
Had stage one Gerz can vouch. No tuning and ran stock valvetrain. No probs and it was strickly a solo car. Two or three seasons no probs made great pwer
11-14-2011, 05:55 PM
#341
Mom why is there two?
11-14-2011, 06:10 PM
#342
The Track Terror
11-14-2011, 06:31 PM
#343
Mom why is there two?
I have no idea how to post pics that is the only way I know and it was a FAIL...LOL. Yes no tuning. Yes stock valvetrain. Yes pleased with the results and yes six spd. All kinds of stuff done.
11-14-2011, 07:43 PM
#345
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^^^ 
man am excited to see Andy's 6MT build....it is gonna rock !!!
man am excited to see Andy's 6MT build....it is gonna rock !!!
11-14-2011, 08:08 PM
#346
Mom why is there two?
Well it was race season for me.. But its cold and done till next year. Indoor activities..LOL. I;d like to post a pic.. Wuts the scoop on that. I can click that link and it works.
11-14-2011, 08:12 PM
#347
All motor
Fenda: A tune is essential when you have aftermarket cams. Idk how Ethenol's car is running so well with the cams and trapping 107. Usually with cams the AFR is thrown all over the place. It's not like an intake or exhaust, where you can put it on and the AFRs won't change much. This directly effects how much air and fuel enters each cylinder. That's why with a tune, you gain so much power.
11-14-2011, 08:25 PM
#348
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
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host on photobucket and paste link.
11-14-2011, 09:02 PM
#349
The Track Terror
Fenda: A tune is essential when you have aftermarket cams. Idk how Ethenol's car is running so well with the cams and trapping 107. Usually with cams the AFR is thrown all over the place. It's not like an intake or exhaust, where you can put it on and the AFRs won't change much. This directly effects how much air and fuel enters each cylinder. That's why with a tune, you gain so much power.
Ethenol, how did you keep track of your AFR? And what were they cruising/WOT/etc?
11-14-2011, 11:20 PM
#351
Suzuka Master
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I'm really tempted to do the stage one cams and the J&R. Maybe next winter. I'm a little concerned about running re-grinds though, and need to see some real data before I blow 4k on the whole valve train set up, ecu, and tune.
11-15-2011, 12:27 AM
#352
okay so what i'm getting from you guys is swapping in the type-s cams won't make a difference and aftermarket springs and retainers on a stock cam is just plain pointless, however getting the bismoto stage one cam done yields good results? would this lead to future problems, when putting in the cams what else would i need to do to ensure my engine is running correctly? sorry guys i'm just an oober noob trying to get as much info as i can before i ruin an amazing car.
11-15-2011, 12:33 AM
#353
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^^^ bro not to sound like a dick but read this:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
I felt the same way about cams and retainers and stuff this helped me understand what all is required and how stuff works....its not with respect to the J series but gives you a general idea of how to and what to upgrade
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
I felt the same way about cams and retainers and stuff this helped me understand what all is required and how stuff works....its not with respect to the J series but gives you a general idea of how to and what to upgrade
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Hacura (11-15-2011)
11-15-2011, 02:36 AM
#355
Great thread guys...I'm looking at PnP'ing the IM and Runners along with a TB bore to match it all. I think Swoosh listed his PnP mm specs and I'm wondering if the Type-S is the same or different?
11-15-2011, 07:09 AM
#357
Safety Car
That "Cam Regrinding Explained" is clearly *biased* negatively toward all aftermarket cams in general. I urge others to take that info lightly.
Cam regrinds have been around for a long time, perhaps longer than me. Historically, regrinds have earned a bad reputation because the regrind was not properly created (quality of material to build up the area before the regrind, heat treatment afterward, etc.).
The biggest point to keep in mind is that this bad reputation developed because the tappet/lifter would prematurely wear down the cam lobe. However, the situation is much different with our engine. The older tappets/lifts worked by actually sliding (yes, metal against metal, scuffing) across the lobe. Whereas, our engine have rollers (think roller bearing) that roll with the lobe. There is no metal-to-metal sliding (scuffing) against the cam in our engine. This is a big difference. I would even venture to say that a crappy made regrind would still live a long, happy life in our engine with no problems.
And, not to mention that we have much better engine oil today than was commonly used back in the day when regrinds earned their bad reputation.
That blub states that regrind are created just by grinding down the heel (lowest part) of the cam. I am not positive, but I am just saying that it is possible that regrinds might be made by welding-up the entire lobe circumference. Then, the welded-up area is machined (regrind) to the new desired profile. A person would need to call Bisimoto to inquire how exactly they do their regrind.
One closing thought. If a person wants to seriously push the NA boundary, you *must* use a cam with more duration at 0.050". There is no other way to get more power out of any NA engine unless you increase the cam duration. Don't let that negatively biased "Cam Regrinding Explained" blurb discourage you.
Cam regrinds have been around for a long time, perhaps longer than me. Historically, regrinds have earned a bad reputation because the regrind was not properly created (quality of material to build up the area before the regrind, heat treatment afterward, etc.).
The biggest point to keep in mind is that this bad reputation developed because the tappet/lifter would prematurely wear down the cam lobe. However, the situation is much different with our engine. The older tappets/lifts worked by actually sliding (yes, metal against metal, scuffing) across the lobe. Whereas, our engine have rollers (think roller bearing) that roll with the lobe. There is no metal-to-metal sliding (scuffing) against the cam in our engine. This is a big difference. I would even venture to say that a crappy made regrind would still live a long, happy life in our engine with no problems.
And, not to mention that we have much better engine oil today than was commonly used back in the day when regrinds earned their bad reputation.
That blub states that regrind are created just by grinding down the heel (lowest part) of the cam. I am not positive, but I am just saying that it is possible that regrinds might be made by welding-up the entire lobe circumference. Then, the welded-up area is machined (regrind) to the new desired profile. A person would need to call Bisimoto to inquire how exactly they do their regrind.
One closing thought. If a person wants to seriously push the NA boundary, you *must* use a cam with more duration at 0.050". There is no other way to get more power out of any NA engine unless you increase the cam duration. Don't let that negatively biased "Cam Regrinding Explained" blurb discourage you.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 11-15-2011 at 07:12 AM.
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Hacura (11-15-2011)
11-15-2011, 09:19 AM
#358
All motor
On a full bolt on J series (untuned) I'd expect the stage 1 cam and a tune to make an additional 20-25whp peak. I'd expect maybeee a slight loss under 3K (maybe 3-4hp), but gains from 3K up, with 15+hp gains in VTEC.
11-15-2011, 09:38 AM
#359
Safety Car
Yes sir. This is what I was hoping to "bring to the table". I might add also, that the specs don't always tell all. This is why I stress the "at 0.050" aspect. The most revealing spec is the duration at 0.050" valve lift on the intake side.