thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ i would have them do it but I don't have 105 bucks right now especially since I bought the wrong manifold... Really pissed me off. So I am just going to use what I have.

Do you know how big he bored it to? I am probably going to stop when I hit 69mm for the inlet size. So that it matches up with the gasket.

I also have a extra set of runners that I need to dig out. I am just way too freaken tired today.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ LOL....take ur time with it....

am a little over 71mm....i connected the TB to the gaskets + moores performance spacer (70mm) and took my dremel to it.....

made everything flush, cleaned it, painted it (gotta love paint) and put her on

EDIT: i was referring to the TB bore and not myself

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

here a few more measurements that i left out

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

get the p2e thermal gaskets bro

they reduce heat transfer through contact....my TB stays so cool that after a drive in summer i can stick my tongue to it for hours....

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ i have the outlaw one for the TB and IM. I also have the coolant bypass mod. So no worries there bro. I wish I could fit all my mods on the Sig. lol

I was planing to stock the thermal gasket from the runners to the IM. P2R, oem metal, outlaw, oem metal. That way I have a mini MDX spacer that is also thermally shielding.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

DOPE !!!

your covered :P LOL

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

In case anyone cares, I had my dyno done this pass Friday with the following results:

252.41 whp/224.11 tq

Run Conditions: 71.92 F, 30.24 in-Hg, Humidity: 8%, SAE: 0.96

Now my last dyno was done in Mar 09; that was before the PCD, PnP, and CM w/LWFW:

241.48 whp/210.23 tq

Run Conditions: 91.32 F, 30.25 in-Hg, Humidity: 9%, SAE: 0.98

Not sure where most of the difference came from more, 10.93 whp/13.88 tq increase isn't bad at all!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ that great peak numbers but may I see the chart please? I am curious about the powerband.

Thanks ^^

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I can't scan it right now, but I will post it up when I get an electronic copy soon.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ thanks bro. I like to see the who picture when it comes to tuning. Peak numbers mean nothing to me. I just want a good power band for daily driving.

greekguy000

iTrader: (1)

great info on this thread!

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Ok I have a copy of my comparison dyno graph, but the shop did not send the print out they gave me. The 237.36 whp dyno was from a prior run before the 241 whp dyno. But here is an idea of my power band.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ thats not bad at all....with the ECU (JnR) you will be able to tune the AFR and squeeze a lot more power out....

your afr looks like constant 14+....12.xxx is where we wanna be

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I like the bump in power!! Lots of tq increase and a very nice top end

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys! I'm very happy with the performance also. With the JnR ECU, I will be ecstatic!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Good work with the TB but ima just send mine in to Maxbore. its only $105 with a NEW butterfly. I understand your low on funds but i'd rather wait for the funds to do it right.

Adrian, i do think your TQ numbers are kinda low as well. 2012 ima def have fun and go to outside meets so i cant wait to run into you.
My CM3 is the SHIT!!! i love it. I need new tires tho and rims and Axle. LOL

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ yeah I had a spare. Going to put it on the car and save for the maxbore one. I also have a set of spare runners that I will be port and polishing because I don't want to pay 375 from p2r. Modding the J series cost too much, but its nice to say yeah I did that on my own b*tches. hahah Built not bought ^^

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ that is way too much....

find someone locally who does head work and talk him into hooking you up....for 250-300 you can get the manifold + runners pnp-ed....

yes you wont be able to drive your car for couple days....

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Its 375 from P2r cuz they "buy" "new" runners directly from honda... I bought my used set for $19 shipped from ebay. I already got the mani pnp, doing tb and runners next. Also port matching everything. Car will be down the whole winter anyways as I don't drive it in the snow..

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

$19 ?

made of plastic ? LOL

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Ebay FTW!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ yeah man... You lucked out I have another set of runners and the TB is another set since you saw my fail thread about buying a TL-S which turned out to be a RL im with no port for the sensor... lol yeah... barely broke even after shipping it to NJ from CA and accidentally buying an 05 RL tb...

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I finished up today. The car feels really good. I don't need to use a ton of throttle to get up to speed. I need to still do the IM and clean out my AEM filter

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ wait till you port match

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ port match and add runners. Zomg GG

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget though Swoosh, 71 is the inlet; the number that really matters, and actually defines the true size of the TB is the outlet. 68mm is the most you can go on ours without compromising the TPS wall.

Finally, someone who uses SAE numbers! Pretty solid dyno. You'll be low 270's with the ECU, which translates to low 280's STD, which is what everyone seems to like to use for bragging rights.

Sonnick

Nice numbers. Every dyno is different. As long as you see solid gains, that's all that matters. I would've thought you would see more gains after the PCDs/ported manifold/lw flywheel, but gains are gains. Based on the increase shown from Rodney's shop car, I think you will be closer to 280 with your mods.

Aznboi: Great to see you got the TB done. Now do the mani/port match/runners and be amazed

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yesssir.....

my outlet is right around 68mm (67.something).....

not MINE....my TB's

Sonnick

Total: I will say that I didn't see your graph before my initial post. The gain from 4500 to redline is significant. Although I though it'd be more, it's still a great gain.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

update
* update here is some progress that I made* Look at the casting mark stock vs polished. I still have to get some of the internals still polished but you get the picture.*


stock


polished

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

dude, ur doing a great freaking job....

i would not port too much on the runners bottom side, the reason being your not gonna port/polish your heads right ? this will cause turbulence.....

i have the top of my runners ported and polished and the bottom of my runners just polished....this way it creates more of a narrowing tunnel and hence forcing effect than turbulence....

get my point ?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ yeah I am actually not going to port it. lol The Burr won't cut. So its just all polishing and removing the casting. I got about 90% of one of the runners casting removed now. I am kinda limited since I am using a hand dremel with the flex head adaptor. And it keeps hitting on the flex head so I can't get deep enough or the angle.

I am probably going to do this to me OEM set of runners on my car and post it forsale later. I spend 3 hours so far and probably have another 2 hr togo. I am going up to 400 grid and then polishing it.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

400 grit LOL...

damn thats a lot of work....6 hours for runners damn.....but yeah the hard work will pay off

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Finish up pix. I need to go run out and get more carb cleaner to soak the EGR Port


and gasket matched WHAT WHAT

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

to put my spin on Anils theory (after alot of reading and experiencing results), it is best to only go up to a 120 grit polish on the runners because you needs cross thatching perpendicular to the direction of airflow to keep air velocity high. Otherwise, the turbulence created by lower speeds does not allow the fuel to atomize to its max potential in this (imperfect) manifold. To even further improve this, you could get some injectors (such as RDX injectors) with a spray pattern that has shown some of the best fuel atomization characteristics in the industry. All for $35 a piece . And contrary to some reading, you CAN run the 440cc RDX injectors without throwing an ECL for over 20% fuel pulled....though im not guaranteeing fuel economy. Though for the 50 miles that I DID run them, the car supposedly achieved 30mpg (and by rights the ecu should try to achieve stoichiometric (14.7) fuel burn readings anyways, so its believable). Not too shabby!

ok, this was my splurge for the day Anil. :P

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ hahaha glad you got on Azine....i hear i am the reason why knowledgeable members leave the forum

but yeah didnt know about the "cross thatching perpendicular to the direction of airflow"....i always thought parallel would work better....guess i was wrong....

and where do you get RDX 440 cc injectors for $35 ? i have looked everywhere and the best i got was around $60

also emailed you about the cams...check it out....

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I only though that applied to muscle cars since they use CARB. and the fuel is mixed in the IM, whereas EFI most of the fuel is mixed right before the head. So i plan not to touch the head for now and make all the upstream components as smooth as possible to increase velocity that was lost due to drag. *Correct me if I am wrong*.

Also that was interesting about the RDX injectors. Got me thinking, but then again I have an accord with a 3.0L and you have a TL-s? So maybe it can compensate for that extra 20%? I don't know. Any info on this would be very helpful.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Done kinda. It was starting to rain so I couldn't go all the way up to 400 grid. Just 180

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

cant wait to see how you feel.....