Holy Shit have you been reading my mind in almost that exact order too. im adding racing pedals and all weather floor mats and some window visors. Whats the best link to follow in regards to that check valve delete. Looking to that this weekend

 

Just get the factory type s pedals. I assume they fit a base model - check first.

The check valve delete thread is here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...300/?styleid=4

 

Ok sounds good thats what I was thinking. And as far as the pedals goes through one of our Acura vendors here or do you know of a place that I can get them Max $160 including dead pedal is what I will spend. I want quality

 

Ok so from what I can tell you take everything out stuff it full of some honda bond and cap it call it a day with the Check valve delete

 

You don't add any Honda bond, you just take out the plastic valve and put it back together. I think he damaged his a bit and used Honda bond to fix it. Haven't read that thread in a while so going off memory here. I removed mine without damage, no need for Honda bond.

Can't help you on the dead pedal, just make sure whoever you're checking out that they're reputable. Check out reviews.

Go here for OEM parts: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

 

Thats what I figured thanks for the info Bro much appreciated

 

Here's a nice cheap mod to do too, keyhole delete:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...284/?styleid=4

Also browse around our garage, lots of good info, just keep in mind some is a bit outdated by now:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...ewbies-553554/

Last but not least, weight removal (pick and choose per your goals for the car):

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...st-1-a-610974/

 

Im not sure on this I might do this but still haven't decided yet

 

Opps sorry I can't edit my posts yet. The keyhole delete looks like a great idea

 

Ok so this is a list of things that I have come up with

Sunroof and Window Visors
Black Coverlay Dashboard Cover
Mugen Shift Knob
Ultimate Racing Pedals
LED Interior and Exterior Lights
CT Shortshifter
SS Clutch line
Shifter Bushings
GM Syncromesh Friction Modified Tranny Fluid
AEM V2 CAI
RV6 HFPC Combo
RV6 TD Exhaust
RV6 Upper Strut Bar
P2P Throttle Body Spacer with thermal gaskets
Intake Manifold Spacer with thermal gaskets
Front and Rear either H&R or Progressive Sway Bars
Engine Mounts

After all that

Flash Pro with 07-08 TL ECU with Tune
Coilovers with a mild drop
Volk TE37's or Enkei RFP1's or both baller status

Well after a lot of consideration I thing when its all said and done I will be very happy with my picks

 

I would skip all of the spacers and thermal gaskets. In my *opinion*, they are useless, other than take $ out of your wallet. Do the TB coolant bypass mod, it's free. The manifold spacer moves your power curve down, towards low-mid range, which IMO makes no sense in a car made for top end power. It's meant for SUVs.

Put the money towards cams if you'd like to go the distance in NA form, such as the Bisimoto cams, or towards all the other stuff. Or PnP the TB and manifolds.

The RV6 upper strut bar is only needed for cosmetics or if you plan on installing an electronic suspension controller. It won't give you any performance increase over the OEM bar. Food for thought.

The H&R sway bars are very stiff. If this is a daily driver and not going to the track, you'll be better off and save money with a Type S front sway bar in combo with the progress rear, and new OEM bushings / links / arms where needed.

 

my 2 cents and agreeing with familyguy:

rv6 strut bar not needed if not getting edfc
avoid the TB spacer
do the coolant bypass
PnP runners (but not if you do the IM spacer)

 

Ok I like the sound of that honestly. I was wondering what everyone's thoughts were gonna be on the Spacers. What about just adding the Thermal Gaskets?
And Please explain the TB bypass what does it accomplish. I'm all for Free Mods

 

Skip the thermal gaskets, stick to OEM gaskets. I've seen a few of the thermal ones deform after a while. Just useless IMO.

The bypass mod basically re-routes the coolant hoses, taking the TB out of the path, so that coolant doesn't flow through the TB. Keeps it a little cooler, but if you live up north the TB *might* stick a bit until it warms up. Up to you. Many here have done this and I haven't seen anyone report any problems. Not saying there aren't any just haven't seen it.

 

Ok so no g on the gaskets. And the weather does get cold around this time of the year. So im a little skeptical in doing it. But I would do it during spring and summer

 

Make sure you save some money for a good set of tires, all of that is useless without grip.

 

pulley, j-pipe-, PCD, Runners will net you power you can feel

suspension and tires will also be stuff you will notice

CBI light bulbs so you can see where you are going

 

Luckily it came with Michelin Pilots which are great tires IMHO. I know there are better out there though

 

Forgot about the Pulley. PCD might make it a tad to loud but it would give more power than HFPC

 

Honestly it's only like a 1-3hp diff between the two. Not worth all the rasp and loudness and drone that comes with it, unless you plan to tailor your own exhaust or start adding resonators to existing options. HFPCs also add some rasp / drone and can be loud with certain exhausts, but no rasp with the rv6 exhaust, just some drone below 2500rpms and music thereafter.

 

I can deal with some drone obviously it comes with the territory. Honestly though from all the clips that I have listened too the complete RV6 setup HFPC combo with Jpipe and TD exhaust is phenomenal sounds like Skyline. And in your words wonderful Music. And you have this setup practically

 

Family Guy do you have any sound clips of your TL on youtube or photbucket.

 

I only have an in-car video of a quick rip, windows rolled up (2nd video below), but here's a really good one, esp when he takes off from the driveway towards the end, that's pretty much what mine sounds like (car on the right is RV6, left is ATLP):

 

I love that setup bro it's awesome

 

Ok so I have been looking at getting some S-Tech's or H-Tech's to go along with the A-Spec suspension to give it a mild drop? Eventually I will go full coilover but for now just wanting to see if anyone out there is using this setup and what they think about it

 

Please tell me more about the Aspec suspension kit, what it consists of, what it does to the car, like ride height, etc.
I just got this 06 mt6 and would like to look I into suspension improvements that don't lower the car more than just a little bit

 

From what I have been told the Aspec suspension gives the car a 1 inch drop over stock and is stiffer than regular setup. I already have these on my TL but im looking for another inch or It includes 4 struts and top hats I presume

 

I just installed my ASPEC suspension this past Saturday, the drop is very mild I would say about 3/4" ~1". Overall impressions so far is: Fantastic! The car is much more neutral and it doesn't pitch so much when accelerating and braking hard and it turns very nicely. It's noticeably stiffer than stock but not bad, I am already getting used to it. Can't wait to get my summer tires on this thing and test it out at an AutoX event.

 

Picked one up right after Christmas, works very well with the solid 27 mm TL-S front anti-roll bar.

 

If you have an automatic, something like the MDX spacer makes sense, midrange is where its at with an automatic but with a 6 speed, you'll find more top end power to be better.*

*as a general rule of course

 

Yeah im gonna steer clear of the spacers for now. I have an extra set of runners an a TB to PNP

 

Ok so I installed the AEM V2 over the weekend absolutly love it. Today I shipped my Intake runners to Gerzand and the TB to Maxbore. Gerzand is also gonna do the Intake manifold for me as well. The car go fast build is well on its way

 

Nice

You should feel a little extra kick in vtec after the PnP.

 

After The Pnp Parts get installed. I'm thinking Flash Pro and a tune. the exhaust won't be ready for at least a month or two. And Andy said I should have the parts back in no more than 2 weeks. Also need to do the Check valve delete and GM Friction modified tranny fluid

 

Just wait till after the exhaust to tune. Why tune twice

 

Your right good thinking

 

PNP intake manifold and runners arrived today courtesy of Gerzand.going to install this weekend. Worth the wait

 

Thank me later.....
Pcd
J-pipe
Stg catback
Electric cutout
3.7 IM
ZDX mani
Ubi 4"intake
Ported runners......


Im schleep doe

 

Remember it'll take a couple of days for the ECU to learn and optimize itself. If you have your radio and navi codes, unplug the battery while you do the job, it'll speed up the learning process after. Let it idle for a good 10mins after you plug the battery back in, before you drive away the 1st time

And post some pics for us.

 

3.7 conversion needs to happen faster for me, goddamn! Have a similar build plan, waiting on Bruce to finish the EndlessRPM singles so I can get rolling with the performance stuff