Nitrous Help!!
I have not posted much info regarding my Nitrous Methanol Injection. However, you might benefit from the few things that I have posted. Please do a search on "nitrous methanol" by Inaccurate. Select "posts", not "thread" for the result output.

Plus, do some searches on Acurazine (not just the Third Generation subforum). Plenty good info to give you an idea of how much boost to aim toward.
My project is still under construction. Please feel free to ask if you have any specific questions. My project requires a large methanol tank to be installed.



Plus, do some searches on Acurazine (not just the Third Generation subforum). Plenty good info to give you an idea of how much boost to aim toward.
My project is still under construction. Please feel free to ask if you have any specific questions. My project requires a large methanol tank to be installed.


Please read this thread to see if you really want nitrous (click here)
For tuning, the primary concern is preventing detonation. Other tuning is your air/fuel mixture while spraying the nitrous. Also, you will need to monitor the pressure in the nitrous bottle too because the pressure heavily influence the air/fuel mixture while spraying, in addition to influencing the overall level of nitrous boost being injected.
Your biggest concern will be how to prevent detonation. You have two options. Use an engine management device, such as the FIC or J&S SafeGuard (click here). Or to use methanol as the supplementary fuel for the wet nitrous system. This is the route that I am taking to control the detonation.
Here are my onboard gauges that I will use to tune my system.


For tuning, the primary concern is preventing detonation. Other tuning is your air/fuel mixture while spraying the nitrous. Also, you will need to monitor the pressure in the nitrous bottle too because the pressure heavily influence the air/fuel mixture while spraying, in addition to influencing the overall level of nitrous boost being injected.
Your biggest concern will be how to prevent detonation. You have two options. Use an engine management device, such as the FIC or J&S SafeGuard (click here). Or to use methanol as the supplementary fuel for the wet nitrous system. This is the route that I am taking to control the detonation.
Here are my onboard gauges that I will use to tune my system.


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Inacc.. why nitrous express? I have always used zex. personal preference or is there a big reason for this. Are you also going to use a progressive controller? I have used them in the past. Just wondering what numbers you are going for. Jet size numbers not hp. I am a huge fan of nitrous.
Question again are you running it off of the Throttle body WOT wire? Or a separate micro switch. If its on the TB what wire is that one? Or just PM me with a pic. I had a nitrous powered cl we had set up that way dont know if the TL's can be done the same way
No. I hate the concept of progressive controllers. Below is a quote from someone that summarizes my feelings about progressive controllers.
My Nitrous Methanol Injection System is not a "store bought" kit. This is a custom system that I designed myself from concept to implementation to tuning. Each component of the system is hand picked (aka, cherry picked). I favor no company in particular. Just who ever makes the best individual component.
For a nitrous tank, I feel that NX produces the best tank because NX uses a valve specifically designed for nitrous system which minimizes internal diameter variations.

I will be using a TPS which taps into the TB wire that actually senses the throttle position, not the pedal position.
The Throttle Position Switch will read the actual closing of the throttle butterfly between shifts. Thus, the nitrous will be turned off while the trans is shifting. This will allow the clutch pack to couple (lock up) without being under the strain of the boosted torque.
The correct wire is the signal wire at terminal 1 of the 6P connector on the TB. This is the topmost wire, which is Red/Black wire. However, I will be tapping this wire from within the car, not under the hood. The wire runs to the Throttle Actuator Control Module under the dash. I will tap into the wire from under the dash.
If you progressively spray your nitrous with a controller (or eventually with Petrik's flash software) the nitrous solenoid is pulsing about 5 times per second, but the intake valve is opening and closing almost 100 times per second. The fuel injector is also opening and closing 100 times per second. What does that mean... well for a dry system the result is that the flow of nitrous can pulse or vary by quite a bit depending on how far the solenoid is from the nozzle exit, but the motor doesn't know this. Some engine cycles it opens the valve and gets more nitrous. Some cycles it gets less. On average, your O2 sensor might think its dead on, but in actuallity, the motor is going lean / rich / lean / rich 5 times a second but averagin out in the tail pipe. This causes the occasional detonation and big crank vibration problem due to the enourmous difference in cylinder pressure from cycle to cycle across the 4 cylinder. I ran a single cyclinder (low RPM)development dyno lab at WPI in the Eighties and had an opportunity to measure and photograph this phenomina. Kind of scary. This is one of the reasons why nitrous can be hard on motors EVEN IF you think you have the perfect tune.
My Nitrous Methanol Injection System is not a "store bought" kit. This is a custom system that I designed myself from concept to implementation to tuning. Each component of the system is hand picked (aka, cherry picked). I favor no company in particular. Just who ever makes the best individual component.
For a nitrous tank, I feel that NX produces the best tank because NX uses a valve specifically designed for nitrous system which minimizes internal diameter variations.

The Throttle Position Switch will read the actual closing of the throttle butterfly between shifts. Thus, the nitrous will be turned off while the trans is shifting. This will allow the clutch pack to couple (lock up) without being under the strain of the boosted torque.
The correct wire is the signal wire at terminal 1 of the 6P connector on the TB. This is the topmost wire, which is Red/Black wire. However, I will be tapping this wire from within the car, not under the hood. The wire runs to the Throttle Actuator Control Module under the dash. I will tap into the wire from under the dash.
Without regards to traction limitations, I estimate that I am low 13 now with n/a. With nitrous, I estimate low 12, but no where near 11's.
Good enough to beat 99.9% of the stuff on the roads during daily commutes.
I probably will never take it to the track. Too many rules that my car would not be able to pass. But, I will have a lot of MPH vs Time data logging.
Good enough to beat 99.9% of the stuff on the roads during daily commutes.
I probably will never take it to the track. Too many rules that my car would not be able to pass. But, I will have a lot of MPH vs Time data logging.
Last edited by Inaccurate; Nov 30, 2010 at 03:22 AM.
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