Need to know if the AEM FIC is worth the money.

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Old 02-01-2016 | 05:57 AM
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Need to know if the AEM FIC is worth the money.

I have an 06 TL 5AT fully bolted and wondering if the AEM FIC is truly worth the money. I keep hearing conflicting opinions about it and it's my only option for tuning since Hondata won't work and the J&R ECU I believe is too expensive. So once and for all, is the AEM FIC worth getting so that I can make the most of my setup? As of next week all of this will be 100% installed on my car -

AEM Cold Air Intake
ATLP V2 J-Pipe
ATLP Hi-Flow Cat
XLR8 Base Duals Cat-Back
RV6 Hi-Flow PreCat x2
J37 Intake Manifold
J37 Intake Manifold Spacer
J37 Throttle Body
J37 Throttle Body Spacer

Thoughts?
Old 02-01-2016 | 06:23 AM
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Just a note but the J37 stuff is pending install. Everything else is currently on the car.
Old 02-01-2016 | 06:52 AM
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I have no direct experience with the FIC, but from everything I've read, it will not allow for optimal tuning. If I recall, there were 2 boxes that people use because one would only retard timing, the other would only advance timing. I don't know if the FIC can do both, or one, as once the Hondata came out, I abandoned any thoughts of anything else.

I would strongly suggest looking for a used JnR. There were a number of them in the BM over the past 2 years, for VERY cheap money compared to new. It's a standalone ecu on top of the factory ecu. I already had a Hondata when I saw the JnR, but I can say unequivocally that I would rather have had the JnR than the Hondata. I'm sure I'm in the minority but I believe there is something in the Honda ecu that we aren't seeing, or don't have access to with regards to tuning using Hondata. It's my personal feeling that something ecu based has contributed to at least 2 Hondata tuned turbo setups. If I remember right, one was a built motor. It's possible that the J35 is a giant turd compared to the J32A2 when using FI, it just doesn't seem probable.

Cliffs Notes: Skip the FIC, save for JnR, tune and be happy
Old 02-01-2016 | 07:16 AM
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Exactly the answer I was looking for. Thanks a lot!
Old 02-01-2016 | 08:04 AM
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FIC cannot increase timing. What you can do is skew the o2 so that it will keep the timing high. It is mostly used for boosted car because of it is ability to reduce timing. It is not bad if you just want to trim the Air fuel ratios. People were running this for build motors before flashpro became available.

I think this guy was running the fic before he swapped over to flashpro. He is the only one I seen that gain 20+whp using flashpro. Most gains are around 10whp.

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...g-results.html

Last edited by thisaznboi88; 02-01-2016 at 08:08 AM.
Old 02-01-2016 | 08:16 AM
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Sounds pretty useless in my situation then. Good thing I didn't spend the asking price of 400 for the FIC and 387 for the harness adapter.
Old 02-01-2016 | 11:28 AM
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I have Hondata and love it, great product for my application. The best options for you is the J&R setup. Make sure you can find someone that knows how to tune it.

From what I read on AEM the FIC is for a FI application and not N/A.
Old 02-01-2016 | 11:59 AM
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Guess I can make that my long term project then. Does be J&R go under any other names or just J&R
Old 02-01-2016 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TheTLProject
Guess I can make that my long term project then. Does be J&R go under any other names or just J&R

Megasquirt III with MS3x is what we have.

They've come out with a pro version.
Old 02-01-2016 | 02:20 PM
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Oh ok cool thanks.
Old 02-01-2016 | 09:05 PM
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You can add as much timing as you want with the FIC... but it's useless and stupid to add timing on 11.1 engine on 91-93 gas... but the FIC cannot monitor the knocks so pretty bad on knock happy engine... Hondata is a great tool and worth the investment if you can make it work on your car

Also, since you don't have any power mods and your car is an automatic... if your current AF is close to 12.8-13.0 you won't gain that much of anything with any tuning tools except for lower knock counts

Last edited by DomGSR-T; 02-01-2016 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 02-02-2016 | 05:23 AM
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I'm having a hard time finding that J&R MS3 ECU that was mentioned. Is it not being made anymore or something?
Old 02-02-2016 | 06:14 AM
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MegaSquirt | Engine Management System | Electronic Fuel Injection - DIYAutoTune.com
Old 02-02-2016 | 06:35 AM
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Cool thanks!
Old 02-02-2016 | 01:00 PM
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Does anyone know what kind of gains I'll see from the J37 Intake manifold and j37 throttle body?
Old 02-02-2016 | 01:09 PM
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I'm punch you OP. This was posted in one your other threads. read


https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...thread-870327/
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Old 02-02-2016 | 02:41 PM
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Fuck I'm really not with it today. I'm so tired from work lmao
Old 02-03-2016 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DomGSR-T
Also, since you don't have any power mods and your car is an automatic... if your current AF is close to 12.8-13.0 you won't gain that much of anything with any tuning tools except for lower knock counts
This is great advice from someone who knows tuning the 3rd gen TL. I think you should forgo the tuning unless you plan on a supercharger or turbo in the future.
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Old 02-03-2016 | 01:23 PM
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TLProject, consider looking into cams if you plan on staying NA. That and port and polish work. Just be aware that beyond the 3.7 Mani/TB swap, serious diminishing returns await (well more so than the already pathetic results on the 5AT)
Old 02-03-2016 | 02:31 PM
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PnP not worth it just save the money to do camshafts, valve spring, and retainers (perfer steel over Ti)
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Old 02-03-2016 | 03:07 PM
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I was told the 3.7 intake mani and throttle body already flow so well that pnp wouldn't have much effect on them? Is that true?
Old 02-03-2016 | 03:54 PM
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3.7 IM and TB doesn't need a port job unless you are going all out; which I doubt.
Old 02-03-2016 | 04:59 PM
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Yeah I figured as much. Definitely not putting any more money into this car.
Old 02-03-2016 | 05:00 PM
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I've spent a good amount already. I'm done with engine mods.

AEM Cold Air Intake : $300.00
ATLP V2 J-Pipe : $379.00
ATLP Hi-Flow 3rd Cat : $295.00
RV6 Hi-Flow PreCats : $529.00
XLR8 Base Dual Cat-Back : $949.00
P2R J32 Throttle Body Spacer (no longer need) : $119.00
J37 Intake Manifold Conversion Kit : $810.00
EndlessRPM Blue Front Tow Hook : $22.00

Total : $3403.00
Old 02-03-2016 | 08:49 PM
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Damn, you never told us about the tow hook. That's good for 35 whp.


But I would sell the AEM intake and the spacer and invest in a good four inch intake to capitalize on the bigger throttle body. And ditch the third high flow cat for a straight pipe.


Airaid U-Build-It Master Kit I Intake Systems 101-401 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
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Old 02-03-2016 | 08:57 PM
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hahahha tow hook as an engine mod? i know you were trying to just list your costs but that's still funny
Old 02-04-2016 | 06:23 AM
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The blue one looked so damn nice. I couldn't turn it down. It's this beautiful almost neon blue. Yeah I'd say it's good for about 35whp thru the whole RPM band...lmao
Old 02-04-2016 | 09:40 AM
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You're not following the TL diet properly
Old 02-04-2016 | 11:23 AM
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X2 for getting rid of the third cat and replacing with straight pipe, you could have saved yourself a few $$ there.


An exhaust cut-out in the straight pipe section would be fun.
Old 02-04-2016 | 12:44 PM
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I don't know why I bothered buying a high flow 3rd cat. I suppose it will come in handy for when I finally resell the car but that shit was expensive.
Old 02-04-2016 | 04:56 PM
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Random question but how do I pop out the tow hook cover without damaging my front bumper?
Old 02-04-2016 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
PnP not worth it just save the money to do camshafts, valve spring, and retainers (perfer steel over Ti)
Very true

You could do Bisi stage 2 cams + valve springs and retainers. I remember Gerzand made like 284 untuned with them + 3.7 mani/tb on an auto




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