I have never changed out my spark plugs yet on my 05 TL (60k miles on it) and thought it would be a good idea to change them now (this will be my first time changing spark plugs ever as im inexperienced doing this). Is there a DIY on how to change them out with pictures (couldnt find anything using the search), I know its fairly easy but I like to refer to something incase I need it? do they need to be torque'd to a certain spec or is snug fine? I want to replace my spark plugs using the NGK Laser Iridiums (6994).

 

There is a lot of great info in the 3G Service Dept: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/

Here you go: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/122-diy-105k-service-timing-belt-water-pump-spark-plugs-thermostat-%2Apics%2A-784622/

 

Why replace them so early?

 

Acura rates the plugs for over 100k, but I'm going to replace mine @ 60k as well. Why? They still work at 100k, but not as well as they do when they're new.

Just preference? I also got a great deal on some new plugs.

 

yea i agree with princelybug, but also i heard a lot of horror stories if left in for the 100k mark they may become seized - also changing them early or more often can give you a better look as to whats going on inside your engine

 

It's a great idea to replace at your mileage for the reasons mentioned. The DIY posted will help with the actual install.

The big thing to remember is to check the gap with a feeler gauge. So far I've only had one that was off but it's good to check it anyway. Always use anti-seize on the threads. It will make is much easier the next time you do a change.

When I did my first plug change I experienced a slightly better cold idle and I did mine around 40K if I remember right.

Don't stress over the type of plug. Buying OEM plugs will always work great but at 60,000 mile intervals you can get away with a cheaper platinum plug too. The only reason for going with iridium is to get that 100,000 mile capability. They all start out life the same but the iridiums degrade less over time. I'm personally running regular $2 plugs in mine with no change in performance. They've been in roughly 40,000 miles. I'll wait until I pull them out or put a few more miles on them before I recommend them to the short change interval guys. But again, you can't go wrong with OEM plugs. I don't want this to turn into a plug debate so I'll leave it at that.

 

I want to say the proper gap is 0.044".

 

I mean, I replaced mine when I got the car at 80k miles.. for the same reason you guys mentioned.

And now I see where OP's car has 60k miles.. not 30k lol Been a long day already

 

Very nice! ft spec are 14ft/lbs

You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.

I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.

My car had 75k.

 

x2....

104,500 miles on the original plugs and this (on winter gas to boot):

 

yup good luck on the change its super easy by the way

 

where in Queens do you live if you came to astoria i can help you

 

so its 14ft/lb for torque spec for the plugs to tighten them? just want to make sure i got the correct info

 

some people say you dont need to torque them to spec usually just a 1/4 - 1/2 turn more then when snug does the trick, but then others say you must torque them bc of heating issues - if tighten too much you can cross thread and damage engine internals..if its too loose it may not get hot enough etc.. what do you guys think? i just like knowing everything 100% before going into something ive never done before, sorry if this has been posted before.

 

When in doubt, go with OEM specs.

 

OEM range is 12-14 ft/lbs

Make sure to thread them in by hand. You really dont want to strip the treads on the head... That would be horrible...

Take your time.

 

Remove the front tower strut bar while replacing the spark plugs.

Makes accessing the rear spark plugs so much easier.

Unplugging the coils and removing the front tower strut bar (rusted and damaged bolts) were the hardest for me lol.

 

thanks

 

Just to clarify, the Service Manual spec for the plugs is 13 ft/lbs...

and the strut bar nuts are 21 ft/lbs.

Getting ready to change my plugs, can you tell??

 

For aluminum headed engines I just grab the ratchet up by the socket and snug it up. For iron heads I grab it just a little more toward the handle. Once you throw a swivel in the mix the torque spec no longer works. Keep that in mind, depending on the angle, a swivel can reduce torque.

 

The flex head sparkplug remover-
1. Is that needed only if you do not remove the tower bar?
2. If I do need it (planning on removing the bar) where should I buy one? I did a quick search and they were about $50 bucks for one. Seems kinda steep...

 

Nevermind, I got em changed.

This is why you change the spark plugs way before the recommended 105k. My car is at 109K.



I definitely noticed a smoother, better overall cold idle. There was a slight knock before I changed them when the engine had been sitting, but not anymore.

 

i changed mine at around 95k and they looked bad just like that. i got those oem plugs but since IHC says he is running the cheaper ones without any issues i will try those because do plan to change them out in way shorter intervals than recommended. 100k seems like a very scary interval for any part, specially the way i drive my beater...

i changed mine using two extensions and removing the bar. it seriously took less than 30 mins all together.

 

What type of plug did you end up using?part #?

 

I've seen a few Accords at 50k miles with plugs that bad. After that, I began to change my plugs out at around 50-60k religously. Even if the plugs cost you a little, it's worth the change. This is one of those jobs that is actually fun with a little element of danger because it's like your changing the cars neurotransmitters.

 

I changed my plugs out today @ 60k:



What do you think?

 

^^^looks like a used plug. As long as the gap is still good, that's still a good plug...

I pulled my plugs at 106.5K and the gap was still perfect (0.044"). Old plugs were not seized at all. Use a little anti-seize on the new plugs. Couldn't tell any difference with the new plugs....Probably could've gone another 50K or more on those plugs....

You don't need a swivel. For the back plugs, use two 3" extensions along with a spark plug socket (with rubber grommet). Heater hose is to start the thread on the new plugs.

 

Wrong. There is another piece to the puzzle you're overlooking.

 

What's the missing piece?

 

Do you ever need to replace the coils? Or just the spark plugs.

 

Only when they go bad.