My Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install
My Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install
Good morning everybody!
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-24644.cfm for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-24644.cfm for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
did you remove all the other stuff besides the air-box - i installed kandn short ram last night i left the resonator and everything else that i couldnt get to without taking the wheel off
The only "quality" difference between all of the products is the type of air filter element they have. I have used just about everything out there with all different project cars and this is the first where I am using this type of Element on the Weapon-R. They had different elements in the past, and they were all pretty good - not as good as AEM or K&N though. So, with that being said, I might have to change the filter, but I doubt for at least 24000 miles.
I am confused why a weapon R would benefit the TL. I was caught between the AEM cold air and the weapon R Short ram. After a lot of research, isnt it defeating the purpose of the stock intake of the tl.
The stock intake of the TL is no better than any others while standing still. The only improvement on any other car is the inlet for air is in the front dam of the car versus on the side where the wheel well is. With this being said, take out the equation of the air in the front as it still has to traverse through the resonator, etc. If you eliminated the resonator and put a straight pipe to the box, then it would be better, however, the air filter element in addition to the actual pipe of how the air traverses is what makes the difference. I would belive that if you decided not to go aftermarket and put a direct pipe from the front air damn to the stock box and replace the rubber hose from the stock box to the throttle body and replace the stock filter it probably would be a great setup. The cost to do all that would be about the same as I spent on the Weapon-R. To each their own, but don't tell me that the stock is that great. I no longer has that first gear lag in automatic mode.
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Engine sound is not similiar to stock. It changed it for sure at all RPM's, most noticeable in 3rd gear after 4K - kind of like a 'waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa sound' (makes peoples heads turn).
No drone at any speed unless you are on it in 3rd gear while going 50+ and pushing it (above 4K RPM).
I put the WR sticker on it. I normally don't, but this time I thought what the heck.
Brian
I put the WR sticker on it. I normally don't, but this time I thought what the heck.
Brian
I wonder if it's worth it to add the Weapon-R Ram air kit to this intake. It would be almost like an Ice Box, but you could put the air intake in the lower grill where the stock intake draws air from.
Was there any reason you didn't get the Secret Weapon intake?
Was there any reason you didn't get the Secret Weapon intake?
Originally Posted by 2004TLinIL
Good morning everybody!
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-24644.cfm for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-24644.cfm for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
Looks nice and nice review but why did you get a short ram over the Cold Air Intake such as a AEM. OUr stock intake is a Cold Air intake. So maybe a short ram is not the way to go. I am just thinking out loud.
Seems to me the benifits of the CAI are negligable compared to this setup (for sound and improved throttle response) and certainly being able to quickly swap back to stock for any warranty work is a plus. I had an Audi-S4 B4 platform (2.7 L bi-turbo) with a chip and intake and with it being an Audi, there were PLENTY of service visits... so it was a royal PITA to have to remove those items (I had the full computer stock so I just swapped those out). Still, with as picky as some dealers are about aftermarket stuff, being able to swap back to stock easily is a real pro.
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....
Originally Posted by TomSawyer
Seems to me the benifits of the CAI are negligable compared to this setup (for sound and improved throttle response) and certainly being able to quickly swap back to stock for any warranty work is a plus. I had an Audi-S4 B4 platform (2.7 L bi-turbo) with a chip and intake and with it being an Audi, there were PLENTY of service visits... so it was a royal PITA to have to remove those items (I had the full computer stock so I just swapped those out). Still, with as picky as some dealers are about aftermarket stuff, being able to swap back to stock easily is a real pro.
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....Seems to me the benifits of the CAI are negligable compared to this setup (for sound and improved throttle response) and certainly being able to quickly swap back to stock for any warranty work is a plus. I had an Audi-S4 B4 platform (2.7 L bi-turbo) with a chip and intake and with it being an Audi, there were PLENTY of service visits... so it was a royal PITA to have to remove those items (I had the full computer stock so I just swapped those out). Still, with as picky as some dealers are about aftermarket stuff, being able to swap back to stock easily is a real pro.
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....
I am wondering about one thing... since the stock air box receives it's 'cold air' from the drivers side lower grill, does cold air still get piped in through that same system to hit this short RA setup? I have not inspected the TL's intake but since you guys have you'll know the answer to that one. If it works like I'm thinking, then as long as that piping for the stock CAI is left in place, it seems that cold air will be hitting this SRI filter nicely.
Correct me if I'm wrong....Good morning everybody!
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from eautoworks.com - This website is for sale! - eautoworks Resources and Information. for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
I thought I would post the results of my Weapon-R Dragon Intake Install. First off, let me show you the completed install and then we can talk about specifics from there.
Here you are:

The install took under an hour. Honestly, if you have ever worked on a car before, it should take you about thirty minutes. I spent a great deal of time looking around at the engine and how things were nicely put together.
I had ordered this product from eautoworks.com - This website is for sale! - eautoworks Resources and Information. for about $131.00 drop shipped directly from Weapon-R. From the time of order to the time of delivery for standard UPS ground from California to Illinois was about seven days.
Upon examining the box that it came in, there was no not knowing what was in the box. The box was very nice and glossy and described every detail. Pretty nice. It wasn't until opening the packaing until I realized how well Weapon-R has there act together. Every little item was wrapped up to protect it - whether it was a screw, bracket, filter, or even piping. Not only did that do that, but there was a checklist inside the box making sure they gave you not only every part needed, but additional brackets, etc. I was very impressed. Also, there was a ton of yellow pieces of foam holding everything down so that there was not even a single rattle. Way to go Weapon-R!
The instructions they provided were good enough for the newbie or do-it-yourselfer. They could have put a little more methodology to it and included a few more pictures, but this would only guarantee my recommended half hour install. It was good enough - not excellent.
Basically, all you do is remove the top/bottom stock airbox with filter inside and hose to throttle body and all clamps and bolts (one clamp, two bolts, and one tiny bolt). You need to cut two tie wraps as the electrical harness is tie wrapped to the left side of the box - so if you try to take the box out, you can't. Also to the firewall side of the airbox, there is a screw holding down a wire clamp that is connected. Unscrew this, put the screw aside and then zip tie the little clamp to the wire harness to get it out of the way. Once this is completed, you can clamp a coupler to the throttle body. Next, you can cut about a 2.5" piece of PVC rubber, connect it up to the pipe and return for the air nipple and then slide the pipe into the throttle body coupler you just put on and clamp again to hold the main pipe in. Next, put a coupler on the air filter and clamp down. Then, slide the air filter onto the main pipe, make sure the air filter has the tiny little screw end-up to put a bracket on. Clamp down accordingly. Disregard the directions for bending a piece of metal they include. They provided extra brackets. Next, take the rubber with double sided screws and screw it in towards the right finderwall closest to the firewall where the stock airbox came out of. Next, lay the straight aluminum bracket on top, and screw down and point it towards the air filter. Next take the little l bracket and screw that onto the air filter. Connect both brackets up together with the screw I had you set aside. I had to supplie a nut to fasten these components together. Wala, you are done!
Starting the car, no apparent difference in characterisitcs. At idle with or without the hood open you can definitely hear the sucking sounds of a high pitch hiss. In park, slightly reving the gas you hear a nice roar. Not too loud, but really nice. Definitely you can tell something is not normal like stock vehicles.
The test drive. Well, all I can say, under normally driving conditions there definitely is a growl, it is not quiet like stock. Mash the gas pedal let's out a real nice roar and as your speed increases and your RPM's, it does get louder - but reallllly nice - growl, not overbearing and things appear to be smoother and more responsive.
Simply put, for $131.00 and an hour or less of your time, this is definitely a nice mod. Oh yeah, the butt dyno does say so too!
Brian
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