phee

iTrader: (5)

recently people figured out how to turn the emanage blue into an emanage gold after soldering a jumper pin.

this allows timing retard and injector scaling.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I think one controls timming and the other scales down injectors. I know one of our members was running both to get both adjustments.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

3rd cat and j-pipe out. Precats tonight. Thankfully I have an impact wrench. Made removing the exhaust nuts a lot easier.

From there we'll see how the other half of the plumbing fits up!

linky33

Can't wait to see the changes happen. Could you give a final cost after everything is done?

tenzingsherpa

^^ i can tell u right now that unless u have 7-8 grand u are not gonna be able to get this kit. the kit is 6 grand but other things like gauges, meth(if wanted), brake upgrade(recommended) and more needs to be done for this kit. like Hi speed said there are alot of hidden cost and rack up BIG time right hi speed.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Install of turbo and suporting mods.
Rental car to get to work
extra $$$ for issues along the way.
Tuning time to get the tune prefected for your area.
Suporting mods themselves ( clutch, engine mounts, meth kit )
Stress of wife and friends asking daily where your car is.

My advice is to plan things out and have all parts and $$$ for labor before install. Because trying to buy parts while in financial free fall is scary.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

On top of the kit:

Battery relocate - $250 (included new battery)
Gauges/Oil - $650
Mounts - $300

Still required

Meth injection - $400-$800
Dyno Time - $300
Exhaust - $500

This is not my daily driver so I have luxury of taking my time. My wife endorses this 100% and the car itself was a present from her when she opened her business.

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

might be a stupid question but does the oil life shortened with the turbo?

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

^it's probably a good idea to make change intervals shorter. Especially since the oil is going through all kind of hell inside the block that it's not used to

Malayalee King

iTrader: (1)

subscribed!

turbocivic94

Please take pics along the way.

I hate cars

You could take Redline out to 5,000-6,000 miles easily. Most other "synthetics" I would go back to the old 3,000 mile rule just to be safe. The OLM is no longer valid once the turbo is installed. If you're driving it easy most of the time with short bursts, it doesn't shorten the oil life that much. However, I would steer clear of most 20wts and start out with a 30 or 40wt depending on the climate.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

More progress made today.

Precats out. Followed StillHere's thread on removing the stock cats. Much easier than the service manual for the rear cat. Front cat is a piece of cake.

Installing the front pipe required me to unbolt the other fan but I didn't have to remove it.

The bottom right nut is a bear to get tightened. Best done from underneath.

Back pipe also goes in much easier from the bottom.

So far, fit is good. One area on the back I will grind down a bit and the input to the intercooler from the turbo is very close to the tranny mount.

Here are some pics of what I have so far.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I just did a quick test fit of the crossover pipe.

All I can say is WOW. It wraps perfectly around the bottom of the oil pan.

I also looked closer at the clearance problem with the rear pipe and it's the aftermarket motor mount and I'll definitely be grinding it down for better clearance.

Next step is drain the oil and put in the oil tap.

I hate cars

Out of curiosity, where does the oil return hose tap into the engine? I assume the feed line taps in around the pressure sending unit?

RonJonTL757

Very nice progress.

TLTYPESNHB07

that is what i wanna do with mine... keep us posted on the progress

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The vtec pressure switch.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

so you have to drain the oil to add the oil feed line?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

You tee off the pressure sensor for the feed and the drain goes to the pan via AN fittings.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the pan has to be removed to install the AN fitting for the drain.

pass427

[QUOTE=Hi speed;12010916]The vtec pressure switch.[/QUOT
CORRECTION THE OIL FEED WILL BE TAKEN FROM OIL PRESSURE SWITCH which sits next to vtec selonoid , I'm not 100% sure but if you take oil from vtec preccure switch this may affect vtec engagement I could be wrong , but oil should be taken from oil pressure switch I'll post up a pic of location , Hi-speed please verify yoursis taken from oil pressure switch as I'd hate for any vtec engagement issues thks ....
And kn thanks for showing everyone the kit is an actual diy , hi speed can't wait til your on the road libert your next first official auto ..

dragonlord

Subscribed

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Here is the location of the oil pressure sending unit, I believe just below it is the vtec switch

turbocivic94

I always use oil pressure switch location for oil feed. Pics are awsome.

RonJonTL757

Can I get a better pic of that Turbo in your Avatar?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=pass427;12013489]
I'll check it out, but I remember seeing that pic in the install manual so I doubt it's in the wrong place.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

RonJonTL757

Thats absolutly beautiful

I hate cars

That's an awesome turbo. I've personally run it on the GN but without the ported compressor housing. Great spool and good power. One of my friends made 500 something at the wheels with it so there's some head room there.

Are the auto TLs going to run the non-ported housing by chance?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I think everyone got the same turbo, because mine looked just like that.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Got the feed and drain fittings straightened out and quickly mocked up the turbo onto the manifold piping. Here is a few shots. Have some tweaking to do with the intercooler piping but so far so good.

I hate cars

Out of curiosity, is this turbo not water cooled? I can't see the water ports from the pictures. Also, are you sure you have the center section clocked right. Most of the time you need the oil return line to face down.

So far so good. What's the ETA?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It's not water cooled.

I was wondering about the orientation of the oil feed and drain. This is how it came to me so I'll have to rotate it. Thanks for the info!

I'm really concerned about doing the drain into the oil pan as I don't see how I can torque the bolts on the flywheel side of the engine because the sub-frame is there.

I'm being delayed by my FIL moving in and the need to build a ramp and make room for the extra person in the house. So I am squeezing this in as I can.

BTW, did you notice I installed the oil feed restriction plate?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Looking good. Any possible major concerns you can see so far?

I just ordered the snow stage 2 meth kit. They make this nozzle mounting bung that gets welded into the intake pipe so you can just screw in the nozzle. They say its for "thin walled piping"

http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=52

Kn_tl, is the intake piping beefy enough that I wouldnt need this? If you think I need the bung then should I get aluminum or steel?

I hate cars

I noticed. I read what Precision said about feed line diameter and I've never heard that before but I'm sure they know what they're talking about. I'm more used to running large factory feed lines because they came with the car and running the restrictor to get the proper flow so I may have been off when saying you *have* to run a restrictor.

I'm kind of glad to see it's not water cooled. IMO, it's more stuff to go wrong and just doesn't offer much if any advantage unless you use an electric water pump for when you shut the car off.

If that return line is not facing the right way, the worst thing you may see is smoke from the exhaust. It shouldn't hurt anything, and if it does smoke you know what the problem is. The aim is to have it facing straight down but if it's at an angle it should still be fine as long as it's angled downward. To tell you the truth, my experience with facing turbos the wrong way comes from the old school journal bearing type and I've never tried facing a BB turbo any way but down. With half the oil flow, they may be more tolerant of how they're faced.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The turbo is not water cooled.

I hate cars

I don't want to answer for him but I'll just give my .02 real quick.

Bungs are always better. More reliable and much easier to swap out or clean out nozzles. Less chance of something coming loose and ruining the engine. less chance of vaccum/boost leaks.

Off topic but you guys should really try out alkycontrol.com. This is the best kit out there and I think it's cheaper than Snow.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^ I was reading a thread from around last year that that Hi speed started regarding meth kits. He was saying that when he called and needed a kit to be made for the tl they said it would be around 1000. Then you said something like it should be closer to 650. I got the snow stage 2 kit for 350 shipped.

So Ill definitely get a bung. Aluminum or steel?

I hate cars

You are usually limited whatever the intercooler piping is made of.

I actually contacted the owner, Julio, long ago and he quoted me $450 for their top of the line progressive kit for the TL. The only custom part is the length of the feed line.

This kit uses the best components and will be problem free for many, many years. This is the largest difference between kits. The Tl is not as important because the meth is there more for the extra power. But for us running 28+psi on pump gas, if the meth fails it can cost an engine.

There's nothing I'm aware of, even the dual nozzle kit that comes anywhere near $1,000.