Just installed Polygraphite front swaybar bushings
04-16-2009, 11:10 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Just installed Polygraphite front swaybar bushings
This made a nice change in the response of the bar. I used the Polygraphite bushings which are graphite impregnated urethane, they never need lube and never squeak. Judging by how much the stock rubber ones were deflecting, I expected these to make a difference and they really did. That initial bodyroll is gone. It's when you first turn in to a corner and you get the instant lean before it settles, that is gone now. The car feels more stable at high speeds. I took it up to 100mph on a fairly rough and curvy road and it stayed composed.
Most importantly, I've had a clunk in the front suspension for the last 50,000 miles and that's gone now.
I didn't take it too close to the limit tonight to see if the overall balance of the car has changed. If it brings it closer to understeer, I can still set my RSB to medium or firm. This was a great upgrade for only $16.
Most importantly, I've had a clunk in the front suspension for the last 50,000 miles and that's gone now.
I didn't take it too close to the limit tonight to see if the overall balance of the car has changed. If it brings it closer to understeer, I can still set my RSB to medium or firm. This was a great upgrade for only $16.
04-16-2009, 11:26 PM
#2
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Probably should've put this in the suspension section.
04-16-2009, 11:27 PM
#3
DIY perhaps? 
haha
I actually purchased a set of bushings as well thinking it was a simple job using some socket extensions, but oh was I wrong ... normally I would have researched it first, but given it was relatively cheap, I went ahead and purchased them as a spur-of-the-moment deal.
Did you have to lower the front end frame to gain access??? Thanks in advance!
hahaI actually purchased a set of bushings as well thinking it was a simple job using some socket extensions, but oh was I wrong ... normally I would have researched it first, but given it was relatively cheap, I went ahead and purchased them as a spur-of-the-moment deal.
Did you have to lower the front end frame to gain access??? Thanks in advance!
... those are straight diy
04-17-2009, 12:43 AM
#7
i hear you have to drop the front crossmember to gain access to the fsb? when I took off my wheels to take a look about a month ago, there wasn't too much space for me to break the bolts ...
Last edited by crzygosu87; 04-17-2009 at 12:45 AM.
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04-17-2009, 03:32 PM
#9
FYI... These are a little more than DIY. You can't get to the rear mounting point without lowering the front subframe. I've had the TL-S FSB and Energy Suspension bushings for over a year, and haven't gotten to it due to the labor involved. I'l likely attempt it when I do the TL-S steering rack.
04-17-2009, 03:34 PM
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
There is a difference in stiffness. Not a lot but it's noticable. For $16 it's great.
What I notice is before as the body leans the bar compresses the rubber bushings a little before you get the full effect of the bar. Now you get the effect immediately since there's nothing to compress. So that initial body lean is reduced a lot. The responsiveness is a little better and the car settles into a turn quicker. If your car understeers already, this will make it worse. I would only do it if you have the RSB too.
What I notice is before as the body leans the bar compresses the rubber bushings a little before you get the full effect of the bar. Now you get the effect immediately since there's nothing to compress. So that initial body lean is reduced a lot. The responsiveness is a little better and the car settles into a turn quicker. If your car understeers already, this will make it worse. I would only do it if you have the RSB too.
04-17-2009, 03:38 PM
#11
Team Owner
Thread Starter
FYI... These are a little more than DIY. You can't get to the rear mounting point without lowering the front subframe. I've had the TL-S FSB and Energy Suspension bushings for over a year, and haven't gotten to it due to the labor involved. I'l likely attempt it when I do the TL-S steering rack.
The front swaybar looks like a pain.
I did the bushings the redneck way. So warning, this is not the correct way but it worked for me in about a hour.
I pulled the tires. Pulled the bolt on each side of the U bracket swaybar mount that I could get to. Left the bar bolted to the endlinks. I pried up and bent the bracket (with one bolt still in it) so I could remove the old bushing and slid the new ones in. I used a large c-clamp to bend the bracket back to the frame. It helps to have an assortment of prybars and flat screwdrivers.
04-17-2009, 06:17 PM
#12
Yep and done... Not too expensive either. Kinda pissed though as I know I'll likely never find a rack now.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/08-tl-s-steering-rack-base-04-tl-auto-717373/
LOL... That's awesome. Looks like you "got r dun"
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/08-tl-s-steering-rack-base-04-tl-auto-717373/
The front swaybar looks like a pain.
I did the bushings the redneck way. So warning, this is not the correct way but it worked for me in about a hour.
I pulled the tires. Pulled the bolt on each side of the U bracket swaybar mount that I could get to. Left the bar bolted to the endlinks. I pried up and bent the bracket (with one bolt still in it) so I could remove the old bushing and slid the new ones in. I used a large c-clamp to bend the bracket back to the frame. It helps to have an assortment of prybars and flat screwdrivers.
I did the bushings the redneck way. So warning, this is not the correct way but it worked for me in about a hour.
I pulled the tires. Pulled the bolt on each side of the U bracket swaybar mount that I could get to. Left the bar bolted to the endlinks. I pried up and bent the bracket (with one bolt still in it) so I could remove the old bushing and slid the new ones in. I used a large c-clamp to bend the bracket back to the frame. It helps to have an assortment of prybars and flat screwdrivers.
04-17-2009, 09:41 PM
#13
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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^took the words right out of my mouth
as for the tl-s steering rack its the same ratio just provides a very stiff feel... almost like no powersteering but it def is powered because if you ever drive in neutral motor off the steering wheel is crazy stiff
as for the tl-s steering rack its the same ratio just provides a very stiff feel... almost like no powersteering but it def is powered because if you ever drive in neutral motor off the steering wheel is crazy stiff
04-17-2009, 10:07 PM
#15
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'll look it up when I get home. I got them from PST. They don't require lube ever and they don't make noise ever. The box I have in front of me says 16.5137G, don't know if that's the part number. I ordered them for the TSX since it has the same front swaybar size as the auto TL.
They were on backorder, took a month and a half.
What vendor (mail order) did you get it from ?
04-17-2009, 11:48 PM
#17
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have to say that after a couple days of driving there is a very slight increase in road noise when driving on uneven pavement. I felt no increase in NVH with the RSB and bushings but there's a slight increase in the front.
The feel is similar to adding the larger RSB, just much more subtle. I do have to say that at high speeds it really does feel more planted, especially over uneven pavement at high speeds.
They come with grease but I don't use it, no need to.
http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-2455-284-acura-tsx-2005.aspx
04-18-2009, 01:01 AM
#18
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Although its a bit hard to find, the Energy Suspension web site lists the exact same part number (16.5137G) for the same application.
Also here:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Also here:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
04-18-2009, 12:09 PM
#19
2009 g37s 6mt
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There is a difference in stiffness. Not a lot but it's noticable. For $16 it's great.
What I notice is before as the body leans the bar compresses the rubber bushings a little before you get the full effect of the bar. Now you get the effect immediately since there's nothing to compress. So that initial body lean is reduced a lot. The responsiveness is a little better and the car settles into a turn quicker. If your car understeers already, this will make it worse. I would only do it if you have the RSB too.
What I notice is before as the body leans the bar compresses the rubber bushings a little before you get the full effect of the bar. Now you get the effect immediately since there's nothing to compress. So that initial body lean is reduced a lot. The responsiveness is a little better and the car settles into a turn quicker. If your car understeers already, this will make it worse. I would only do it if you have the RSB too.
04-21-2009, 09:04 PM
#20
Safety Car
Can we also use the TSX 2005 *Rear* Poly Bushing? According to one source, the TL rear bar (for the base TL) is 0.67 inch (17 mm). But, the rear Poly Bushing for the TSX is listed as 15 mm. Is it close enough ?
04-21-2009, 10:38 PM
#21
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Get the right size.
Search for part# 9.5121G from Energy Suspension
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
04-21-2009, 10:45 PM
#22
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FWIW looks like:
'04 - '06 AT RSB = 17mm Solid
'04 - '06 MT RSB = 20mm Solid
'07 - '08 TL-S RSB= 20mm Solid
'07 - '08 Base RSB = 18.3mm Hollow
'04 - '06 AT RSB = 17mm Solid
'04 - '06 MT RSB = 20mm Solid
'07 - '08 TL-S RSB= 20mm Solid
'07 - '08 Base RSB = 18.3mm Hollow
04-27-2009, 07:31 PM
#24
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have a warning for anyone using these bushings. I've run polygraphite bushings on everything I've owned, every bushing in the GN is polygraphite with no squeaking and no grease.
These bushings are not polygraphite, they're black Energy Suspension bushings. They came with a tube of lithium grease which I thought was weird as my other 20 bushings from this company didn't come with grease. I did not use it and now I have a squeek from the bushings.
I got worried when Bearcat posted the same part number from Energy Suspension and it looks like he was right. So to anyone using these, definately use the grease.
These bushings are not polygraphite, they're black Energy Suspension bushings. They came with a tube of lithium grease which I thought was weird as my other 20 bushings from this company didn't come with grease. I did not use it and now I have a squeek from the bushings.
I got worried when Bearcat posted the same part number from Energy Suspension and it looks like he was right. So to anyone using these, definately use the grease.
04-27-2009, 11:22 PM
#25
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I have a warning for anyone using these bushings. I've run polygraphite bushings on everything I've owned, every bushing in the GN is polygraphite with no squeaking and no grease.
These bushings are not polygraphite, they're black Energy Suspension bushings. They came with a tube of lithium grease which I thought was weird as my other 20 bushings from this company didn't come with grease. I did not use it and now I have a squeek from the bushings.
I got worried when Bearcat posted the same part number from Energy Suspension and it looks like he was right. So to anyone using these, definately use the grease.
These bushings are not polygraphite, they're black Energy Suspension bushings. They came with a tube of lithium grease which I thought was weird as my other 20 bushings from this company didn't come with grease. I did not use it and now I have a squeek from the bushings.
I got worried when Bearcat posted the same part number from Energy Suspension and it looks like he was right. So to anyone using these, definately use the grease.
I thought (was really pretty sure) I had read that the Black Energy Suspension bushings were Graphite Empregnated. I can't be 100%, but I was pretty sure.
Maybe this:
.... Energy has impregnated selected black polyurethane components with graphite–to add a lubrication property. ....
.... We recommend our Formula 5 Prelube. This is included in the kits that require lubrication and can also be purchased at your local Energy Suspension ® dealer. ....
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/comquest.html
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