J35A8 Procharger Engine Build
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
J35A8 Procharger Engine Build
I would like to eventually build my j32 engine. For FI I would like to lower cylinder compression. I’ve read that using forged 3.5 rods on a 3.2 crank will lower compression due to 3.2L rods being longer. Is this true?
#2
Latent car nut
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Yes, but do the math first; the length of the rods may be too short and you'll end up with something like a 6:1 compression ratio.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I figured I would just shoot first ask questions last.
Currently compiling a list of internal build parts.
- Wisco Pistons
- Crower rods
- Supertech Valve Springs and Ti retainers
Would RL cams fit into the J32? I read they are better than stock 07-08 TL/TL-S cams.
Currently compiling a list of internal build parts.
- Wisco Pistons
- Crower rods
- Supertech Valve Springs and Ti retainers
Would RL cams fit into the J32? I read they are better than stock 07-08 TL/TL-S cams.
#4
Safety Car
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If your,going boost no need to worry about camshaft? How much power do you want to make? Also you might want to consider buffing up the transmission.
. this is how much power you need to be a 10sec car. Taken from my friend built motor accord v6 mt.
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Chris Jordan (02-03-2020)
#5
Team Owner
1000whp to be a 10 second car?
FWD kills these cars. It's fine for ~350whp, but anything up and beyond that, I dunno what the point is... unless you like spinning your tires in 4th gear at 85mph
Then again, looking at that dyno curve... looks like he could've used a smaller turbo to build boost earlier on, with a much lower peak power value and still gotten the same times.
FWD kills these cars. It's fine for ~350whp, but anything up and beyond that, I dunno what the point is... unless you like spinning your tires in 4th gear at 85mph
Then again, looking at that dyno curve... looks like he could've used a smaller turbo to build boost earlier on, with a much lower peak power value and still gotten the same times.
#7
Team Owner
Curious, OP, why don't you pick up a platform that comes with boost from the factory? Then you can safely play with it, up the boost easily, and make stupid amounts of power at a fraction of the cost.
Granted, the TL is a good looking car... but dropping mad cash to build up a stock engine to handle more power, which is still incredibly difficult to effectively put down and control, why not pick up a 335i or S4 or something, throw a tune and full exhaust on and enjoy the 100hp you just gained, to add to the 100hp more the stock car already has over a stock TL?
Better bang for your buck. A shit ton of cars to choose from. Lots of good looking examples. Etc.
I mean, it's you're money by the end of the day... but there's a reason nobody really spends crazy money on modding the TL anymore.
Granted, the TL is a good looking car... but dropping mad cash to build up a stock engine to handle more power, which is still incredibly difficult to effectively put down and control, why not pick up a 335i or S4 or something, throw a tune and full exhaust on and enjoy the 100hp you just gained, to add to the 100hp more the stock car already has over a stock TL?
Better bang for your buck. A shit ton of cars to choose from. Lots of good looking examples. Etc.
I mean, it's you're money by the end of the day... but there's a reason nobody really spends crazy money on modding the TL anymore.
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#9
Team Owner
Why not? Most none of the OGs drive Acuras anymore
#11
Team Owner
I still drive a TL, but looking to replace it next year... probably with another 3G TL
But I won't be spending money on modding the shit out of it. If I didn't buy another 3G, I'd be looking at a new Golf R, or a 2016 S4 (last year of the manual). Nothing really else out there for me.
but look at any of the mods or OG members... I'd say maybe 20% of them still have an Acura in their household.
But I won't be spending money on modding the shit out of it. If I didn't buy another 3G, I'd be looking at a new Golf R, or a 2016 S4 (last year of the manual). Nothing really else out there for me.
but look at any of the mods or OG members... I'd say maybe 20% of them still have an Acura in their household.
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I’m not trying to pimp it out, or make it a 10 second car. I just want to build it to handle he 500whp I’m looking for. I am trying to only do Mors to it that I can swap into a 6mt.
Im modding my 3g because I want a faster car, but haven’t found anything close to what the 3g means to me.
Im modding my 3g because I want a faster car, but haven’t found anything close to what the 3g means to me.
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EvilVirus (08-02-2018)
#15
Team Owner
drive more, different cars.
#16
Team Owner
Didn't I see you also posted a wanted ad for a TL-S recently? You're all over the map, man!!
#18
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#19
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I’m not installing a rear engine, I just shared the crude measurements to show it is a possibility. Sparking a conversation because this is one project not yet contemplated from my search.
#21
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I didn’t do thourough enough research. Wanted a whiney Comptech SC.
May just keep the CT on the auto since it’s finished now and save the Rotrex for the my 6mt.
Im also not looking for a 10 second car Azn, I just wanna want to make 600whp on my 6mt. Whatever time that makes I’ll be happy with.
May just keep the CT on the auto since it’s finished now and save the Rotrex for the my 6mt.
Im also not looking for a 10 second car Azn, I just wanna want to make 600whp on my 6mt. Whatever time that makes I’ll be happy with.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 08-02-2018 at 10:22 PM.
#23
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
https://acurazine.com/forums/market/971290
#26
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If it were you, I was going to suggest, based on the picture below, to hose down the S/C'er shaft and snout with some brake clean before your long drive across the country. It's a little difficult to tell with the caked grime; however, there may be a slight weep of S/C'er oil at the snout. It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes. Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
#27
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Understood. Thanks for the response.
If it were you, I was going to suggest, based on the picture below, to hose down the S/C'er shaft and snout with some brake clean before your long drive across the country. It's a little difficult to tell with the caked grime; however, there may be a slight weep of S/C'er oil at the snout. It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes. Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
If it were you, I was going to suggest, based on the picture below, to hose down the S/C'er shaft and snout with some brake clean before your long drive across the country. It's a little difficult to tell with the caked grime; however, there may be a slight weep of S/C'er oil at the snout. It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes. Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 08-04-2018 at 12:04 PM.
#28
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
, I know.
So, no further problems with the serpentine belt fraying?
Take a pic of the CLS PS hose inlet you purchased, next to the TL one currently on the car, if possible. I'm interested in seeing how they compare.
, I know.
So, no further problems with the serpentine belt fraying?
Take a pic of the CLS PS hose inlet you purchased, next to the TL one currently on the car, if possible. I'm interested in seeing how they compare.
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zeta (08-04-2018)
#30
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
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zeta (08-05-2018)
#33
If all you want to make is 600whp on a j35a8 then all you need to do is install oem j35a1 piston and rods. Those have held up to 900whp.
#35
Yes sir, Aaron from Englishtown racing (I think that's the name of his place) knows anything you want to know about J series. His car has 950whp-ish on his J, he was running oem piston and rods with a stock block. Most people don't know that little known fact. But the J35A1 piston and rods are beefy to support about 700whp Aaron says. The stock sleeves of the J35A8 can support it too. All you would need is valve spring and retainers and you are good to go.
#36
Team Owner
#37
Team Owner
Saving4aTL- fast, reliable, cheap. Pick any two. The third is simply not an option.
#39
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Engines are routinely over-engineered. Think back to the pedestrian 2.2 liter "Turbo I" engine in the old Dodge Daytona; in 1984 at full boil the engine put out a whopping 140 HP; the engine itself was stressed to well over 400 HP.
#40
Team Owner
Right, but you're comparing two completely different applications. Forced induction engines were normally overbuilt. Think of the Skyline engines, Supra engines, etc. All of them could handle a ton of power.
It's not normal to build a naturally aspirated engine to handle almost three times its rated power. Just because someone did it and hasn't had the engine blow up, doesn't mean it won't blow up. Often times guys build up their cars and then sell them within 1000 miles of finishing it.
Think if it this way- honda is an ultra conservative company- they are all about pinching pennies wherever possible. I am very skeptical to believe honda built a NA engine able to withstand 700hp, knowing full well it would never be utilized.
It's not normal to build a naturally aspirated engine to handle almost three times its rated power. Just because someone did it and hasn't had the engine blow up, doesn't mean it won't blow up. Often times guys build up their cars and then sell them within 1000 miles of finishing it.
Think if it this way- honda is an ultra conservative company- they are all about pinching pennies wherever possible. I am very skeptical to believe honda built a NA engine able to withstand 700hp, knowing full well it would never be utilized.