J32A3 Exhaust Modifications
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Cruisin'
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J32A3 Exhaust Modifications
I was really disappointed in 2004 when I found out that J32A3 comes with built in head pseudo exhaust manifold cast with the head. Thermodynamics, at least my knowledge of the subject does not support this decision (F22C and K20A have bolt-on exhaust manifold specially designed for easy flow and thermodynamically tested. Look at the exhaust manifolds of the mighty RA005E). So I assume that reasoning of Acura engineers was based on spacing, so they could fit in two warm up catalytic converters with four Oxygen sensors. Acura TL is considered a luxury not performance sedan. J32A3 is made in US, not Japan (not sure where it was designed though), so it's not as performance oriented.
In order to gain power in J32A3, first that has to be done is to polish and coat the interior of the pseudo exhaust manifolds to smoothen out the initial shock from combustion explosions in cylinders. Than take out both warm up catalytic converters! They are warm up catalytic converters, and work efficiently only at lower temperatures, before the engine reaches 90-100 degrees Celsius. I'll find out the actual temperatures when warm up cats work at what efficiency later when I connect MODIS to OBDII and print out voltage data charts from each of the four Oxygen Sensors up front. (I'll try to graph it against temperature sensors data, just have to read MODIS manual, since I'm used to Snap-on diagnostic tool and LAUNCH, and we just got a new Asian module for MODIS at my shop, but I didn't get a chance to test it yet). These two warm-up catalytics while decreasing emissions drastically at low temperatures, before the main catalytic converter arms-up by exhaust, they slow down the exhaust flow at high revolutions, where power is produced. This makes TL a ULEV vehicle by the way. I'll try to print out emissions graphs of the TL from emissions tests by inspection. (NOx and CO)
Custom made pipe has to be made that would replace Two warm-up catalytic converters and Pipe A. It should bolt on to polished pseudo exhaust manifolds in the block and has to holes for two upper Oxygen sensors. Post warm up oxygen sensors can be taken off (they only measure the work of catalytic converters at low temperatures). Pipe should be made from either Titanium alloy or Stainless Steel T309 and be 3 inches in diameter. Computer (ECU/PCM) should be reprogrammed to account for elimination of two Oxygen sensors. (This can be done either with MODIS or LAUNCH, a laptop with right software) You would need to trick ECU in believing that there is a voltage signal from two sensors at required rpms/temperature (simple C++ code). Otherwise Check Engine light would be on all the time, which is not a huge deal, but you would have P0120 and P0220 all the time (No signal from bank 1, sensor 2 O2 sensor/No signal from bank 2, sensor 2 O2 sensor—if I didn’t mess up the codes).
New High Flow/Low Resistance Catalytic converter should be installed that would be much wider and has a space for lower Oxygen sensor. Pipe B should be changed to high flow 3 inch Titanium alloy (like Mugen products) or Stainless Steel T309 pipe without resonator with new mufflers like Magnaflow or Comptech.
All these exhaust modifications should theoretically produce a 30-40 HP> gain. All of this is my theoretical talk and I’ll be doing all of these calculations, rereading my Thermodynamics books and writing C++ calculus programs. This project is not going into mechanical phase until summer, because of 5 days a week University. I’m only 3 days in my Repair shop and I have to do actual work.
No time for this hobby for now. 
Can you guys please post your Dynoed info with exhaust modifications? This would be really helpful for my research. Thank you.
In order to gain power in J32A3, first that has to be done is to polish and coat the interior of the pseudo exhaust manifolds to smoothen out the initial shock from combustion explosions in cylinders. Than take out both warm up catalytic converters! They are warm up catalytic converters, and work efficiently only at lower temperatures, before the engine reaches 90-100 degrees Celsius. I'll find out the actual temperatures when warm up cats work at what efficiency later when I connect MODIS to OBDII and print out voltage data charts from each of the four Oxygen Sensors up front. (I'll try to graph it against temperature sensors data, just have to read MODIS manual, since I'm used to Snap-on diagnostic tool and LAUNCH, and we just got a new Asian module for MODIS at my shop, but I didn't get a chance to test it yet). These two warm-up catalytics while decreasing emissions drastically at low temperatures, before the main catalytic converter arms-up by exhaust, they slow down the exhaust flow at high revolutions, where power is produced. This makes TL a ULEV vehicle by the way. I'll try to print out emissions graphs of the TL from emissions tests by inspection. (NOx and CO)
Custom made pipe has to be made that would replace Two warm-up catalytic converters and Pipe A. It should bolt on to polished pseudo exhaust manifolds in the block and has to holes for two upper Oxygen sensors. Post warm up oxygen sensors can be taken off (they only measure the work of catalytic converters at low temperatures). Pipe should be made from either Titanium alloy or Stainless Steel T309 and be 3 inches in diameter. Computer (ECU/PCM) should be reprogrammed to account for elimination of two Oxygen sensors. (This can be done either with MODIS or LAUNCH, a laptop with right software) You would need to trick ECU in believing that there is a voltage signal from two sensors at required rpms/temperature (simple C++ code). Otherwise Check Engine light would be on all the time, which is not a huge deal, but you would have P0120 and P0220 all the time (No signal from bank 1, sensor 2 O2 sensor/No signal from bank 2, sensor 2 O2 sensor—if I didn’t mess up the codes).
New High Flow/Low Resistance Catalytic converter should be installed that would be much wider and has a space for lower Oxygen sensor. Pipe B should be changed to high flow 3 inch Titanium alloy (like Mugen products) or Stainless Steel T309 pipe without resonator with new mufflers like Magnaflow or Comptech.
All these exhaust modifications should theoretically produce a 30-40 HP> gain. All of this is my theoretical talk and I’ll be doing all of these calculations, rereading my Thermodynamics books and writing C++ calculus programs. This project is not going into mechanical phase until summer, because of 5 days a week University. I’m only 3 days in my Repair shop and I have to do actual work.
No time for this hobby for now. Can you guys please post your Dynoed info with exhaust modifications? This would be really helpful for my research. Thank you.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Suburb of Manassas, VA
Originally Posted by shevchenko
I was really disappointed in 2004 when I found out that J32A3 comes with built in head pseudo exhaust manifold cast with the head. Thermodynamics, at least my knowledge of the subject does not support this decision (F22C and K20A have bolt-on exhaust manifold specially designed for easy flow and thermodynamically tested. Look at the exhaust manifolds of the mighty RA005E). So I assume that reasoning of Acura engineers was based on spacing, so they could fit in two warm up catalytic converters with four Oxygen sensors. Acura TL is considered a luxury not performance sedan. J32A3 is made in US, not Japan (not sure where it was designed though), so it's not as performance oriented.
In order to gain power in J32A3, first that has to be done is to polish and coat the interior of the pseudo exhaust manifolds to smoothen out the initial shock from combustion explosions in cylinders. Than take out both warm up catalytic converters! They are warm up catalytic converters, and work efficiently only at lower temperatures, before the engine reaches 90-100 degrees Celsius. I'll find out the actual temperatures when warm up cats work at what efficiency later when I connect MODIS to OBDII and print out voltage data charts from each of the four Oxygen Sensors up front. (I'll try to graph it against temperature sensors data, just have to read MODIS manual, since I'm used to Snap-on diagnostic tool and LAUNCH, and we just got a new Asian module for MODIS at my shop, but I didn't get a chance to test it yet). These two warm-up catalytics while decreasing emissions drastically at low temperatures, before the main catalytic converter arms-up by exhaust, they slow down the exhaust flow at high revolutions, where power is produced. This makes TL a ULEV vehicle by the way. I'll try to print out emissions graphs of the TL from emissions tests by inspection. (NOx and CO)
Custom made pipe has to be made that would replace Two warm-up catalytic converters and Pipe A. It should bolt on to polished pseudo exhaust manifolds in the block and has to holes for two upper Oxygen sensors. Post warm up oxygen sensors can be taken off (they only measure the work of catalytic converters at low temperatures). Pipe should be made from either Titanium alloy or Stainless Steel T309 and be 3 inches in diameter. Computer (ECU/PCM) should be reprogrammed to account for elimination of two Oxygen sensors. (This can be done either with MODIS or LAUNCH, a laptop with right software) You would need to trick ECU in believing that there is a voltage signal from two sensors at required rpms/temperature (simple C++ code). Otherwise Check Engine light would be on all the time, which is not a huge deal, but you would have P0120 and P0220 all the time (No signal from bank 1, sensor 2 O2 sensor/No signal from bank 2, sensor 2 O2 sensor—if I didn’t mess up the codes).
New High Flow/Low Resistance Catalytic converter should be installed that would be much wider and has a space for lower Oxygen sensor. Pipe B should be changed to high flow 3 inch Titanium alloy (like Mugen products) or Stainless Steel T309 pipe without resonator with new mufflers like Magnaflow or Comptech.
All these exhaust modifications should theoretically produce a 30-40 HP> gain. All of this is my theoretical talk and I’ll be doing all of these calculations, rereading my Thermodynamics books and writing C++ calculus programs. This project is not going into mechanical phase until summer, because of 5 days a week University. I’m only 3 days in my Repair shop and I have to do actual work. No time for this hobby for now.
Can you guys please post your Dynoed info with exhaust modifications? This would be really helpful for my research. Thank you.
In order to gain power in J32A3, first that has to be done is to polish and coat the interior of the pseudo exhaust manifolds to smoothen out the initial shock from combustion explosions in cylinders. Than take out both warm up catalytic converters! They are warm up catalytic converters, and work efficiently only at lower temperatures, before the engine reaches 90-100 degrees Celsius. I'll find out the actual temperatures when warm up cats work at what efficiency later when I connect MODIS to OBDII and print out voltage data charts from each of the four Oxygen Sensors up front. (I'll try to graph it against temperature sensors data, just have to read MODIS manual, since I'm used to Snap-on diagnostic tool and LAUNCH, and we just got a new Asian module for MODIS at my shop, but I didn't get a chance to test it yet). These two warm-up catalytics while decreasing emissions drastically at low temperatures, before the main catalytic converter arms-up by exhaust, they slow down the exhaust flow at high revolutions, where power is produced. This makes TL a ULEV vehicle by the way. I'll try to print out emissions graphs of the TL from emissions tests by inspection. (NOx and CO)
Custom made pipe has to be made that would replace Two warm-up catalytic converters and Pipe A. It should bolt on to polished pseudo exhaust manifolds in the block and has to holes for two upper Oxygen sensors. Post warm up oxygen sensors can be taken off (they only measure the work of catalytic converters at low temperatures). Pipe should be made from either Titanium alloy or Stainless Steel T309 and be 3 inches in diameter. Computer (ECU/PCM) should be reprogrammed to account for elimination of two Oxygen sensors. (This can be done either with MODIS or LAUNCH, a laptop with right software) You would need to trick ECU in believing that there is a voltage signal from two sensors at required rpms/temperature (simple C++ code). Otherwise Check Engine light would be on all the time, which is not a huge deal, but you would have P0120 and P0220 all the time (No signal from bank 1, sensor 2 O2 sensor/No signal from bank 2, sensor 2 O2 sensor—if I didn’t mess up the codes).
New High Flow/Low Resistance Catalytic converter should be installed that would be much wider and has a space for lower Oxygen sensor. Pipe B should be changed to high flow 3 inch Titanium alloy (like Mugen products) or Stainless Steel T309 pipe without resonator with new mufflers like Magnaflow or Comptech.
All these exhaust modifications should theoretically produce a 30-40 HP> gain. All of this is my theoretical talk and I’ll be doing all of these calculations, rereading my Thermodynamics books and writing C++ calculus programs. This project is not going into mechanical phase until summer, because of 5 days a week University. I’m only 3 days in my Repair shop and I have to do actual work.
No time for this hobby for now. Can you guys please post your Dynoed info with exhaust modifications? This would be really helpful for my research. Thank you.
Same thing with gunpowder in a firearm. It also burns.
Pro
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: Vaughan, ON
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
I'm not trying to be a jerk or a smart butt with this, but the fuel/air mixture in an internal combustion piston engine doesn't explode.. it burns. If it were to explode, that would be very, very bad.
Same thing with gunpowder in a firearm. It also burns.
Same thing with gunpowder in a firearm. It also burns.
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tehLEGOman
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by shevchenko
Sorry guys, I bought new fully loaded G 35 COUPE and currently puting twin turbo's on it, as soon as I finish reading my Thermodynamics class and do all the calculations.
One of the problems that might be surfacing with the J32 exhaust setup is the primary warm up cats being so close to the block. The faster exhaust gases with the addition of excess, unburned gas is forcing the cats to deplete, and the honeycomb is breaking apart.
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
Originally Posted by ITL
Are you referring to the EShift cats, OEM, or both?
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