J-Pipe worth it?
11-14-2012, 08:35 PM
#41
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
^ this
I have rv6 j-pipe and it compliments my rv6 tru dual exhaust nicely. I did't "waste" money on pcds as the type s cell count was ok with me.
And the j-pipe didn't add gas fumes dumbass. The PCD's did that for you.
OP the j-pipe is a solid mod if you have the cash to drop on it. Just look at the bends of the oem manifold and you will see what I mean. Take those out and add equal length runners = better than stock.
I have rv6 j-pipe and it compliments my rv6 tru dual exhaust nicely. I did't "waste" money on pcds as the type s cell count was ok with me.
And the j-pipe didn't add gas fumes dumbass. The PCD's did that for you.
OP the j-pipe is a solid mod if you have the cash to drop on it. Just look at the bends of the oem manifold and you will see what I mean. Take those out and add equal length runners = better than stock.
The following users liked this post:
sauceja (11-18-2012)
11-15-2012, 12:15 AM
#42
I just recently installed the aem v2 intake, and surprisingly i thought i noticed the most power gains in the midrange high end area, overall though i think i gained the most power from my pcds then the intake, exaust then jpipe lastly.. my first mod was the jpipe too and i honestly didnt notice anything
11-15-2012, 03:10 AM
#43
I just recently installed the aem v2 intake, and surprisingly i thought i noticed the most power gains in the midrange high end area, overall though i think i gained the most power from my pcds then the intake, exaust then jpipe lastly.. my first mod was the jpipe too and i honestly didnt notice anything
11-15-2012, 03:04 PM
#44
I just recently installed the aem v2 intake, and surprisingly i thought i noticed the most power gains in the midrange high end area, overall though i think i gained the most power from my pcds then the intake, exaust then jpipe lastly.. my first mod was the jpipe too and i honestly didnt notice anything
11-15-2012, 03:09 PM
#45
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
IMHO the intake gains are placebo or just from preventing it from pulling a little timing, not saying it's not a good mod, but I did J pipe first and felt gains, CAI I felt zero gains but the car sounds really aggressive. More people than not are saying they felt gains from a J pipe.
11-15-2012, 03:15 PM
#46
LOL still a cluster fuck of a thread.
s2000, the intake would be worth it AFTER you do other mods.
from the factory, we have a cold air intake system.
this system draws cold air from the bumper.
2nd, the throttle body is the limiting factor.
it wont do you any good, if you have a big ass 4 inch diameter intake if the throttle body wont let in any more air.
lol
true the Jseries loves to breathe, but only after the "efficiency" mods are done.
free up the exhaust
free up the intake manifold.
also, with the jpipe you're going from a restrictive 2.25 with HORRIBLE BENDS to a 2.5 diameter pipe with nicer flowing bends.
you're going to pick up horse power with the jpipe no doubt
Please note, that our car is a Honda.
what do Honda's love?
VTEC!!!!
this means, you'll feel the gains in the upper RPMs with the jpipe.
my first mod was the jpipe.
6MT with Jpipe vs stock 6MT.
Guess who pulled in third gear?
<-------this guy.
s2000, the intake would be worth it AFTER you do other mods.
from the factory, we have a cold air intake system.
this system draws cold air from the bumper.
2nd, the throttle body is the limiting factor.
it wont do you any good, if you have a big ass 4 inch diameter intake if the throttle body wont let in any more air.
lol
true the Jseries loves to breathe, but only after the "efficiency" mods are done.
free up the exhaust
free up the intake manifold.
also, with the jpipe you're going from a restrictive 2.25 with HORRIBLE BENDS to a 2.5 diameter pipe with nicer flowing bends.
you're going to pick up horse power with the jpipe no doubt
Please note, that our car is a Honda.
what do Honda's love?
VTEC!!!!
this means, you'll feel the gains in the upper RPMs with the jpipe.
my first mod was the jpipe.
6MT with Jpipe vs stock 6MT.
Guess who pulled in third gear?
<-------this guy.
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
sauceja (11-18-2012),
The Machine (11-16-2012)
11-15-2012, 11:30 PM
#48
car felt a little more free after the jpipe, but definitely not HUGE. Freeing up the rest of the system is what's really going to make the big difference,pcats,exhaust, throttle body
11-16-2012, 10:34 AM
#51
There is no education he can give...obviously he's a hater.
My thread and dynograph are proof and truth.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/xlr8-v2-j-pipe-dyno-numbers-860816/
My thread and dynograph are proof and truth.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/xlr8-v2-j-pipe-dyno-numbers-860816/
Last edited by greekguy000; 11-16-2012 at 10:39 AM.
11-16-2012, 11:15 AM
#54
All motor
This is exactly why I reiterated time and time again that the Jpipes should be dyno'd with the PCDs. Everyone knows the Jpipe as the first mod will wake up the car. It's been dyno'd over and over. You should see 10-12whp and 12-15ft-lbs or so from ANY Jpipe. They are all within a few hp/tq of each other, it's just about where in the powerband the power will be. The RV6 apparently shines a bit better in the lower RPMs, the ATLP/XLR8 in the higher RPMs (although XLR8 seems to have the best balance).
Making power is about the combination of parts. You can't just stick parts on and expect to see great gains. A car with a Fujita CAI/PCDs/XLR8 Jpipe will put down different power than a car with an AEM V2/PCDs/RV6 V3 Jpipe. Same goes with ATLP. We all know the TL gains power from a Jpipe on a stock car. Most of these dyno's can be misleading if the user plans to go beyond I/Jpipe/E. Once the PCDs are thrown in, the whole mix changes.
What we need to see is a 6MT TL with I/PCDs. We then need to see a dyno comparing the stock Jpipe to the other 3 currently available. I will almost guarantee there will be large fluctuations in power.
Put it this way....some people have gained 15whp with the PCDs before adding a Jpipe. Some people have gained 12-15whp with a Jpipe before adding PCDs. FYI, Atlas dyno'd a 10whp/tq gain going from the XLR8 V1 to XRL8 V2 Jpipe with a CAI and Borla exhaust; factory precats. He then dyno'd with the PCDs and gained 5whp. So we can't just say "PCDs? Easy 10-12whp no matter what." It doesn't work that way.
You know what would be great? If someone would dyno a TL with I/E, then with both PCDs/Jpipe added at the same time to see the combined gains. PCDs will provide great gains on a stock car as will a Jpipe. It's when these 2 parts are combined that things get messy.
Making power is about the combination of parts. You can't just stick parts on and expect to see great gains. A car with a Fujita CAI/PCDs/XLR8 Jpipe will put down different power than a car with an AEM V2/PCDs/RV6 V3 Jpipe. Same goes with ATLP. We all know the TL gains power from a Jpipe on a stock car. Most of these dyno's can be misleading if the user plans to go beyond I/Jpipe/E. Once the PCDs are thrown in, the whole mix changes.
What we need to see is a 6MT TL with I/PCDs. We then need to see a dyno comparing the stock Jpipe to the other 3 currently available. I will almost guarantee there will be large fluctuations in power.
Put it this way....some people have gained 15whp with the PCDs before adding a Jpipe. Some people have gained 12-15whp with a Jpipe before adding PCDs. FYI, Atlas dyno'd a 10whp/tq gain going from the XLR8 V1 to XRL8 V2 Jpipe with a CAI and Borla exhaust; factory precats. He then dyno'd with the PCDs and gained 5whp. So we can't just say "PCDs? Easy 10-12whp no matter what." It doesn't work that way.
You know what would be great? If someone would dyno a TL with I/E, then with both PCDs/Jpipe added at the same time to see the combined gains. PCDs will provide great gains on a stock car as will a Jpipe. It's when these 2 parts are combined that things get messy.
Last edited by Sonnick; 11-16-2012 at 11:18 AM.
11-16-2012, 01:26 PM
#56
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
Well said Sonnick, it's a combo of parts. Some things work well together, some need each other, and some mitigate each other. Past a certain point you only need so much exhaust flow/intake flow that freeing up something else will have minimal gains. IE do mod A first and feel gains, add mod B and feel little/no gains. Do mod B first feel gains, do mod A second feel little/no gains. Also if you did intake, manifolds, cams etc and stock exhaust it'll have some gains, then add exhaust it'll free up the initial mods and make it feel like exhaust did more than just exhaust would have done. Okay maybe I'm rambling now.
11-16-2012, 05:09 PM
#57
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
It is a gorgeous piece of metal. Great welds, collector, great stainless, seems to have the ideal runner length of the current offerings as far as balancing the output. The fact it weighs a pound less than an ATLP V1/race pipe doesn't hurt either.
11-16-2012, 05:30 PM
#58
I did educate, with a same morning dyno session all paid by me and not tricked by any vendors claims. FI guys must also have found the 30wtq gain funny 
I would love to pay 300-400$ for a magic pipe that give 30wtq. I also bought one but it did not give the gain it was supposed to as per vendors claims. I can give a lot of eductation and I already did. Oh and I could also say something godlike like you did,
''My thread and dynograph are proof and truth''
But I haven't, I just gave my
to those who wanted to read my dyno post.
There is no education he can give...obviously he's a hater.
My thread and dynograph are proof and truth.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860816
My thread and dynograph are proof and truth.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860816
''My thread and dynograph are proof and truth''
But I haven't, I just gave my
to those who wanted to read my dyno post.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-17-2012 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
11-16-2012, 06:00 PM
#59
so with all the comments in this thread over hp claims does anyone have any comments on mpg's? being on the road all the time with 130k miles i'm looking for anything to save some money at the pumps. just wondering how the jpipe affects this.
11-16-2012, 07:15 PM
#60
I would love to pay 300-400$ for a magic pipe that give 30wtq. I also bought one but it did not give the gain it was supposed to as per vendors claims. I can give a lot of eductation and I already did. Oh and I could also say something godlike like you did,
''My thread and dynograph are proof and truth''
But I haven't, I just gave my to those who wanted to read my dyno post.
''My thread and dynograph are proof and truth''
But I haven't, I just gave my
to those who wanted to read my dyno post.I suppose then, the only way to resolve this is by meeting somewhere we can both have our cars dynoed with the stock and aftermarket j-pipes
11-16-2012, 08:17 PM
#62
The Track Terror
What's the specs on the custom exhaust? I'm going this route soon too...although I think I'm gonna have them cut off the collector on my j-pipe and weld the true dual off of that...
11-16-2012, 09:01 PM
#64
here a pics of how my piping starts, jpipe cuts and then welded to a X pipe and all the way to the back with 2'' pipes. I have a 18'' long dual in/out exhaust as a resonator in the middle of the piping. I still use the oem type S mufflers. No rasp or drone, only a great sound and good gain.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-17-2012 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
11-16-2012, 09:10 PM
#65
This is exactly why I reiterated time and time again that the Jpipes should be dyno'd with the PCDs. Everyone knows the Jpipe as the first mod will wake up the car. It's been dyno'd over and over. You should see 10-12whp and 12-15ft-lbs or so from ANY Jpipe. They are all within a few hp/tq of each other, it's just about where in the powerband the power will be. The RV6 apparently shines a bit better in the lower RPMs, the ATLP/XLR8 in the higher RPMs (although XLR8 seems to have the best balance).
Making power is about the combination of parts. You can't just stick parts on and expect to see great gains. A car with a Fujita CAI/PCDs/XLR8 Jpipe will put down different power than a car with an AEM V2/PCDs/RV6 V3 Jpipe. Same goes with ATLP. We all know the TL gains power from a Jpipe on a stock car. Most of these dyno's can be misleading if the user plans to go beyond I/Jpipe/E. Once the PCDs are thrown in, the whole mix changes.
What we need to see is a 6MT TL with I/PCDs. We then need to see a dyno comparing the stock Jpipe to the other 3 currently available. I will almost guarantee there will be large fluctuations in power.
Put it this way....some people have gained 15whp with the PCDs before adding a Jpipe. Some people have gained 12-15whp with a Jpipe before adding PCDs. FYI, Atlas dyno'd a 10whp/tq gain going from the XLR8 V1 to XRL8 V2 Jpipe with a CAI and Borla exhaust; factory precats. He then dyno'd with the PCDs and gained 5whp. So we can't just say "PCDs? Easy 10-12whp no matter what." It doesn't work that way.
You know what would be great? If someone would dyno a TL with I/E, then with both PCDs/Jpipe added at the same time to see the combined gains. PCDs will provide great gains on a stock car as will a Jpipe. It's when these 2 parts are combined that things get messy.
Making power is about the combination of parts. You can't just stick parts on and expect to see great gains. A car with a Fujita CAI/PCDs/XLR8 Jpipe will put down different power than a car with an AEM V2/PCDs/RV6 V3 Jpipe. Same goes with ATLP. We all know the TL gains power from a Jpipe on a stock car. Most of these dyno's can be misleading if the user plans to go beyond I/Jpipe/E. Once the PCDs are thrown in, the whole mix changes.
What we need to see is a 6MT TL with I/PCDs. We then need to see a dyno comparing the stock Jpipe to the other 3 currently available. I will almost guarantee there will be large fluctuations in power.
Put it this way....some people have gained 15whp with the PCDs before adding a Jpipe. Some people have gained 12-15whp with a Jpipe before adding PCDs. FYI, Atlas dyno'd a 10whp/tq gain going from the XLR8 V1 to XRL8 V2 Jpipe with a CAI and Borla exhaust; factory precats. He then dyno'd with the PCDs and gained 5whp. So we can't just say "PCDs? Easy 10-12whp no matter what." It doesn't work that way.
You know what would be great? If someone would dyno a TL with I/E, then with both PCDs/Jpipe added at the same time to see the combined gains. PCDs will provide great gains on a stock car as will a Jpipe. It's when these 2 parts are combined that things get messy.
Thank you !
Again I am lead to believe I AM THE ONLY ONE TO HAVE DONE B4/RIGHT AFTER DYNO with Intake&PCD's then j-pipe.
Honestly to all the people who love to put their
in,please, please hold back UNLESS YOU HAVE DONE IT !
Again this is what one of my TL's did :
05 6spd stock : 209whp
Aem Cai : 226whp
Then I did a run months later it did : 224whp, about 2hrs later after PCD's it made : 240whp.
rv6 pcd's added 16whp! And some good tq gains as well!
Now months later I get a RV6 J-pipe and the best of 3 runs after lost 6whp & 12wtq.
Driving impressions : Awesome low end power but it starts to fall off on mid end, and top end is completely lost at wot.
It would probably gain with a proper cat back. Not the stock exhaust I had....
every jpipe will be different.....
11-16-2012, 09:24 PM
#66
Thank you !
Again I am lead to believe I AM THE ONLY ONE TO HAVE DONE B4/RIGHT AFTER DYNO with Intake&PCD's then j-pipe.
Honestly to all the people who love to put their in,
please, please hold back UNLESS YOU HAVE DONE IT !
Again this is what one of my TL's did :
05 6spd stock : 209whp
Aem Cai : 226whp
Again I am lead to believe I AM THE ONLY ONE TO HAVE DONE B4/RIGHT AFTER DYNO with Intake&PCD's then j-pipe.
Honestly to all the people who love to put their
in,please, please hold back UNLESS YOU HAVE DONE IT !
Again this is what one of my TL's did :
05 6spd stock : 209whp
Aem Cai : 226whp
11-17-2012, 12:40 AM
#68
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Normal numbers for a 3G base 6MT are 215-225 at the wheels.
The following users liked this post:
1black_seven (11-17-2012)
11-17-2012, 12:46 AM
#69
Theres no need for name calling ..... DUMBASS
Now there was no fumes when i installed the rv6 pcd's,
then i installed the j-pipe and wow! fumes galore! The 3rd cat attached to the jpipe really helped filter out the smell.
Now I took the rv6 v3 jpipe off and the smell is gone. The stock j-pipe and 3rd cat are on.
The car is totally differrnt now. With the RV6 v3j-pipe on my car soooo much low end power was added. but after mid range going to top end or under wot the car chokes.
The design of the oem jpipe on our cars really sucks. its super crappy design.
if you look at the oem the closest jpipe would be atlpv2.
It looks like a solid unit that I wish honda would have put on our cars.
Anyways the rv6 v3 seems crazzy. Its got (2) 2.25" equal long runners which right at the end merge into 2.5" and bang theres a flange. If you pair it up to a oem cat back like myself you will experience very good low end but mid-top / wot suffer because the oem cat back is simply not made to handle this rv6 v3 j-pipe. atleast you should go 2.5" all way back or better yet what makes more sense in my opinion and i believe 2 members habe done it with good results is do a true dual cat back and cut v3 jpipe right b4 in merges into the single 2.5". Now on the other hand a very intrresting design is the xlr8 v2. Its like the rv6 v3 and atlp v2 combined. it has (2) runners but they are not long like the rv6 and nowlt like the atlp so i would say kind of in the middle.
I would like to " believe " that this j-pipe would be the best out of the 3, but I cant say " yet ".
What I can say is the exact same car 100% will make different power and have a different powrr band on all 3 j-pipes. Rv6 has proven to make crazzy low end power, but it falls off on mid-top and loses peak max power vs. a stock jpipe paired up with a stock cat back.
This again has been proven on my stock 6spd TL with just aem cai and rv6 pcd's.
In my opinion every tl owner should atleast do a cold air intake and pcd's. Its a very noticeable gain, both in hp/tq. No rasp. No fumes. Improved gas millage. Just my 0.02.
I will soon be putting a thread up on my j-pipe b4/after.
And I will be buying another j-pipe to do b4/after.
Lastly Rich is a really great vendor. No hate against him. I thank him for being part of the few ( along side josh/marcus ) who actually take the time to design said parts for our cars.
His pcd's are the best mod I have done so far all around.
And I really miss the rv6 v3 jpipe the crazzy low end power its really impressive, but i feel the need to try another jpipe which can provide more mid-top end.
Thx,
P.S - Lastly I was asked why im not doing a true dual exhaust. Well its simple im not giving up my pcds. Rv6 true dual eliminates 3rd cat. Id rather just get another jpipe the put a 2.5" cat back and a high flow cat to keep fumes down.
Now there was no fumes when i installed the rv6 pcd's,
then i installed the j-pipe and wow! fumes galore! The 3rd cat attached to the jpipe really helped filter out the smell.
Now I took the rv6 v3 jpipe off and the smell is gone. The stock j-pipe and 3rd cat are on.
The car is totally differrnt now. With the RV6 v3j-pipe on my car soooo much low end power was added. but after mid range going to top end or under wot the car chokes.
The design of the oem jpipe on our cars really sucks. its super crappy design.
if you look at the oem the closest jpipe would be atlpv2.
It looks like a solid unit that I wish honda would have put on our cars.
Anyways the rv6 v3 seems crazzy. Its got (2) 2.25" equal long runners which right at the end merge into 2.5" and bang theres a flange. If you pair it up to a oem cat back like myself you will experience very good low end but mid-top / wot suffer because the oem cat back is simply not made to handle this rv6 v3 j-pipe. atleast you should go 2.5" all way back or better yet what makes more sense in my opinion and i believe 2 members habe done it with good results is do a true dual cat back and cut v3 jpipe right b4 in merges into the single 2.5". Now on the other hand a very intrresting design is the xlr8 v2. Its like the rv6 v3 and atlp v2 combined. it has (2) runners but they are not long like the rv6 and nowlt like the atlp so i would say kind of in the middle.
I would like to " believe " that this j-pipe would be the best out of the 3, but I cant say " yet ".
What I can say is the exact same car 100% will make different power and have a different powrr band on all 3 j-pipes. Rv6 has proven to make crazzy low end power, but it falls off on mid-top and loses peak max power vs. a stock jpipe paired up with a stock cat back.
This again has been proven on my stock 6spd TL with just aem cai and rv6 pcd's.
In my opinion every tl owner should atleast do a cold air intake and pcd's. Its a very noticeable gain, both in hp/tq. No rasp. No fumes. Improved gas millage. Just my 0.02.
I will soon be putting a thread up on my j-pipe b4/after.
And I will be buying another j-pipe to do b4/after.
Lastly Rich is a really great vendor. No hate against him. I thank him for being part of the few ( along side josh/marcus ) who actually take the time to design said parts for our cars.
His pcd's are the best mod I have done so far all around.
And I really miss the rv6 v3 jpipe the crazzy low end power its really impressive, but i feel the need to try another jpipe which can provide more mid-top end.
Thx,
P.S - Lastly I was asked why im not doing a true dual exhaust. Well its simple im not giving up my pcds. Rv6 true dual eliminates 3rd cat. Id rather just get another jpipe the put a 2.5" cat back and a high flow cat to keep fumes down.
^ this
I have rv6 j-pipe and it compliments my rv6 tru dual exhaust nicely. I did't "waste" money on pcds as the type s cell count was ok with me.
And the j-pipe didn't add gas fumes dumbass. The PCD's did that for you.
OP the j-pipe is a solid mod if you have the cash to drop on it. Just look at the bends of the oem manifold and you will see what I mean. Take those out and add equal length runners = better than stock.
I have rv6 j-pipe and it compliments my rv6 tru dual exhaust nicely. I did't "waste" money on pcds as the type s cell count was ok with me.
And the j-pipe didn't add gas fumes dumbass. The PCD's did that for you.
OP the j-pipe is a solid mod if you have the cash to drop on it. Just look at the bends of the oem manifold and you will see what I mean. Take those out and add equal length runners = better than stock.
11-17-2012, 01:00 AM
#70
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
^^
I was gonna recommend the XLR8 V2, but then saw you wanted to retain the ability to run a third cat.
If you want true 304 stainless, which I recommend over the ATLP's 439, I'd go with the XLR8 V1.
I was gonna recommend the XLR8 V2, but then saw you wanted to retain the ability to run a third cat.
If you want true 304 stainless, which I recommend over the ATLP's 439, I'd go with the XLR8 V1.
11-17-2012, 10:51 AM
#71
11-17-2012, 10:54 AM
#72
Theres no need for name calling ..... DUMBASS
Now there was no fumes when i installed the rv6 pcd's,
then i installed the j-pipe and wow! fumes galore! The 3rd cat attached to the jpipe really helped filter out the smell.
Now I took the rv6 v3 jpipe off and the smell is gone. The stock j-pipe and 3rd cat are on.
The car is totally differrnt now. With the RV6 v3j-pipe on my car soooo much low end power was added. but after mid range going to top end or under wot the car chokes.
The design of the oem jpipe on our cars really sucks. its super crappy design.
if you look at the oem the closest jpipe would be atlpv2.
It looks like a solid unit that I wish honda would have put on our cars.
Anyways the rv6 v3 seems crazzy. Its got (2) 2.25" equal long runners which right at the end merge into 2.5" and bang theres a flange. If you pair it up to a oem cat back like myself you will experience very good low end but mid-top / wot suffer because the oem cat back is simply not made to handle this rv6 v3 j-pipe. atleast you should go 2.5" all way back or better yet what makes more sense in my opinion and i believe 2 members habe done it with good results is do a true dual cat back and cut v3 jpipe right b4 in merges into the single 2.5". Now on the other hand a very intrresting design is the xlr8 v2. Its like the rv6 v3 and atlp v2 combined. it has (2) runners but they are not long like the rv6 and nowlt like the atlp so i would say kind of in the middle.
I would like to " believe " that this j-pipe would be the best out of the 3, but I cant say " yet ".
What I can say is the exact same car 100% will make different power and have a different powrr band on all 3 j-pipes. Rv6 has proven to make crazzy low end power, but it falls off on mid-top and loses peak max power vs. a stock jpipe paired up with a stock cat back.
This again has been proven on my stock 6spd TL with just aem cai and rv6 pcd's.
In my opinion every tl owner should atleast do a cold air intake and pcd's. Its a very noticeable gain, both in hp/tq. No rasp. No fumes. Improved gas millage. Just my 0.02.
I will soon be putting a thread up on my j-pipe b4/after.
And I will be buying another j-pipe to do b4/after.
Lastly Rich is a really great vendor. No hate against him. I thank him for being part of the few ( along side josh/marcus ) who actually take the time to design said parts for our cars.
His pcd's are the best mod I have done so far all around.
And I really miss the rv6 v3 jpipe the crazzy low end power its really impressive, but i feel the need to try another jpipe which can provide more mid-top end.
Thx,
P.S - Lastly I was asked why im not doing a true dual exhaust. Well its simple im not giving up my pcds. Rv6 true dual eliminates 3rd cat. Id rather just get another jpipe the put a 2.5" cat back and a high flow cat to keep fumes down.
Now there was no fumes when i installed the rv6 pcd's,
then i installed the j-pipe and wow! fumes galore! The 3rd cat attached to the jpipe really helped filter out the smell.
Now I took the rv6 v3 jpipe off and the smell is gone. The stock j-pipe and 3rd cat are on.
The car is totally differrnt now. With the RV6 v3j-pipe on my car soooo much low end power was added. but after mid range going to top end or under wot the car chokes.
The design of the oem jpipe on our cars really sucks. its super crappy design.
if you look at the oem the closest jpipe would be atlpv2.
It looks like a solid unit that I wish honda would have put on our cars.
Anyways the rv6 v3 seems crazzy. Its got (2) 2.25" equal long runners which right at the end merge into 2.5" and bang theres a flange. If you pair it up to a oem cat back like myself you will experience very good low end but mid-top / wot suffer because the oem cat back is simply not made to handle this rv6 v3 j-pipe. atleast you should go 2.5" all way back or better yet what makes more sense in my opinion and i believe 2 members habe done it with good results is do a true dual cat back and cut v3 jpipe right b4 in merges into the single 2.5". Now on the other hand a very intrresting design is the xlr8 v2. Its like the rv6 v3 and atlp v2 combined. it has (2) runners but they are not long like the rv6 and nowlt like the atlp so i would say kind of in the middle.
I would like to " believe " that this j-pipe would be the best out of the 3, but I cant say " yet ".
What I can say is the exact same car 100% will make different power and have a different powrr band on all 3 j-pipes. Rv6 has proven to make crazzy low end power, but it falls off on mid-top and loses peak max power vs. a stock jpipe paired up with a stock cat back.
This again has been proven on my stock 6spd TL with just aem cai and rv6 pcd's.
In my opinion every tl owner should atleast do a cold air intake and pcd's. Its a very noticeable gain, both in hp/tq. No rasp. No fumes. Improved gas millage. Just my 0.02.
I will soon be putting a thread up on my j-pipe b4/after.
And I will be buying another j-pipe to do b4/after.
Lastly Rich is a really great vendor. No hate against him. I thank him for being part of the few ( along side josh/marcus ) who actually take the time to design said parts for our cars.
His pcd's are the best mod I have done so far all around.
And I really miss the rv6 v3 jpipe the crazzy low end power its really impressive, but i feel the need to try another jpipe which can provide more mid-top end.
Thx,
P.S - Lastly I was asked why im not doing a true dual exhaust. Well its simple im not giving up my pcds. Rv6 true dual eliminates 3rd cat. Id rather just get another jpipe the put a 2.5" cat back and a high flow cat to keep fumes down.
PCD gave you the fumes
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sauceja (11-18-2012)
11-17-2012, 11:23 AM
#73
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Question;
My previous car was a 2004 Subaru forester XT which I ran a completely Catless 3" turbo back exhaust.
When I went to deQ in Portland Oregon (on 3 seperate ocassions) they only plugged into the obd2 port and never even looked for cats.
Do they do something similar with our tl's or are we just screwed...
My previous car was a 2004 Subaru forester XT which I ran a completely Catless 3" turbo back exhaust.
When I went to deQ in Portland Oregon (on 3 seperate ocassions) they only plugged into the obd2 port and never even looked for cats.
Do they do something similar with our tl's or are we just screwed...
11-17-2012, 12:29 PM
#74
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Guys, a couple of housekeeping things....
1. No name calling or this thread gets closed up
2. If you want to repsond to more than one person in a single reply, use the multi-quote button. It's the middle icon in the lower right hand corner of each thread.
Thanks!
1. No name calling or this thread gets closed up
2. If you want to repsond to more than one person in a single reply, use the multi-quote button. It's the middle icon in the lower right hand corner of each thread.
Thanks!
11-18-2012, 01:25 PM
#79
Desert Life Sucks!!
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I have no experience with J-pipe and oem cat back.
I replaced oem with Rv6 j-pipe and his v1 tru-dual exhaust at the same time.
I didn't want to go with PCD's due to gas fumes. I didn't want to spend twice that much money on HFPC's when the cell count was only a couple hundred less than Type-S.
IMO to answer the OP. Yes the jpipe of your choice of manufacture is definately worth it.
It is better complimented as others say by going to the tailpipe to get best results but just swapping the oem design it is nothing but positive.
That is all.
I replaced oem with Rv6 j-pipe and his v1 tru-dual exhaust at the same time.
I didn't want to go with PCD's due to gas fumes. I didn't want to spend twice that much money on HFPC's when the cell count was only a couple hundred less than Type-S.
IMO to answer the OP. Yes the jpipe of your choice of manufacture is definately worth it.
It is better complimented as others say by going to the tailpipe to get best results but just swapping the oem design it is nothing but positive.
That is all.
11-18-2012, 04:30 PM
#80
You keep going on about how 439 is bad and I am not really sure why. Yes it can get a little ugly but it very strong and won't corrode through. It is probably the best material to make exhaust systems out of due to it's higher ability to be fabricated. 304 is harder and more prone to cracking.