J-Pipe vs PCD ?
J-Pipe vs PCD ?
Whether to buy a J Pipe or Pre Cat deletes. Im only willing to drop the bills on one of these at the moment but i cant find any great distinctions to help me decide which to get. Which adds more power, sounds better etc.. Which would you guys suggest i put on first?
you're kind'of in a rough spot. BUT...if you can only choose one, i would go with PCD's first. they're the biggest power gainer out of the 2.
make sure your emissions testing doesn't do visual inspections or smog testing...or you'll fail inspection.
make sure your emissions testing doesn't do visual inspections or smog testing...or you'll fail inspection.
jpipe is considered the first mod, because it doesnt have any drawbacks.
only pros and no cons!
While the PCDs have CONS.
- might throw check engine light, if defouler isnt positioned right. or if 02 sensor gets banged up
-might not pass inspections
- you will get rasp at 3-3.5k RPM.
-there is a gas smell or a weed whacker smell.
PROs
-gain about 15 horsies!
-the smell it gives off
-the sound it gives off
only pros and no cons!
While the PCDs have CONS.
- might throw check engine light, if defouler isnt positioned right. or if 02 sensor gets banged up
-might not pass inspections
- you will get rasp at 3-3.5k RPM.
-there is a gas smell or a weed whacker smell.
PROs
-gain about 15 horsies!
-the smell it gives off
-the sound it gives off
Last edited by justnspace; Mar 27, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
I dont have a check engine light flashing, BUTT, I know that I have a code, just like you!
when ever I plug in the OBDII scanner, the code pops up.
its for the 02 sensor bank1
okay, your code is for running rich on bank 1, sensor 1.
Ihave a code that says slow to respond bank1, sensor1.
I'll have to re-position my defouler to get rid of my code
Last edited by justnspace; Mar 27, 2012 at 10:02 AM.
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stock diameter is 2.25 with horrible crushed BENDS.
plus, there's a third cat.
with an aftermarket jpipe, the diameter is a little bigger. I think 2.50 or 2.75..not sure, and there are no crush bends. so, air flows nicely throughout the pipe.
it also gets rid of the 3rd cat.
if not positioned right, and or 02 sensors get damaged....you will get a CEL.
I dont have a check engine light flashing, BUTT, I know that I have a code, just like you!
when ever I plug in the OBDII scanner, the code pops up.
its for the 02 sensor bank1
okay, your code is for running rich on bank 1, sensor 1.
Ihave a code that says slow to respond bank1, sensor1.
I'll have to re-position my defouler to get rid of my code
I dont have a check engine light flashing, BUTT, I know that I have a code, just like you!
when ever I plug in the OBDII scanner, the code pops up.
its for the 02 sensor bank1
okay, your code is for running rich on bank 1, sensor 1.
Ihave a code that says slow to respond bank1, sensor1.
I'll have to re-position my defouler to get rid of my code
he need to replace this sensor because it is due for new ones, it is not because of the precat delete. but have you ever consider the pre cat high flow arsenals? 1/3 less power of the PCD but no rasp and no smell
I'm drunk. and have no reading comprehension skills
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
The primary catalytic converters are monitored cats. If you remove them it will throw a CEL. You can install O2 spacers on the rear O2s to prevent throwing a CEL, but that isn't always 100% effective.
If this is you first mod I'd recommend the j-pipe. It's easier to install, has great power gains, and will not eliminate your primary means of filtering emissions.
Of course I recommend our XLR8 V2 j-pipe too.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-494454.aspx
If this is you first mod I'd recommend the j-pipe. It's easier to install, has great power gains, and will not eliminate your primary means of filtering emissions.
Of course I recommend our XLR8 V2 j-pipe too.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-494454.aspx
a jpipe for 3.2 na bone stock
will gain 8-22~ (amazing numbers for a jpipe change) somewhere along the rpm band depending on which one you go with
Someone in an accord gained 8+ over another aftermarket j pipe set up with the new xlr8v2 jpipe.
the oem j pipe is fucking ugly, looks like a mangled 2 legged octopus with the 3rd cat as head. I need to get rid of this parasite! replace it with a proper pet
will gain 8-22~ (amazing numbers for a jpipe change) somewhere along the rpm band depending on which one you go with
Someone in an accord gained 8+ over another aftermarket j pipe set up with the new xlr8v2 jpipe.
the oem j pipe is fucking ugly, looks like a mangled 2 legged octopus with the 3rd cat as head. I need to get rid of this parasite! replace it with a proper pet
I too was wondering this question. I have a completely stock 04 TL auto. From my research the RV6 V3 seems to be a big hit as of late. $450 for 10-12whp isn't too bad AND my girlfriend won't even know I did anything. At least from the reviews I've read that say sound is only noticable above 3-3.5k rpm...
^never had a midmuffler delete. so I wouldnt know.
all I know is that the aftermarket jpipe I added, sounded stock like. with it being deeper in sound but not louder.
almost akin to a cold air intake......when you step on the skinny pedal, you can hear Air rushing in
all I know is that the aftermarket jpipe I added, sounded stock like. with it being deeper in sound but not louder.
almost akin to a cold air intake......when you step on the skinny pedal, you can hear Air rushing in
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From: Kansas City, MO
I would do PCD's....
you cannot better the PCD's but Jpipe are still under works....RV6 and XLR8 have great jpipes and ATLP is gonna come out with an awesome pipe....but PCD's are what they are....
i would get the PCD's for more HP for a cheaper price....
they do not throw a CEL (i have had it for couple years).....just make sure your state does not have emissions as these will not pass that !!!
you cannot better the PCD's but Jpipe are still under works....RV6 and XLR8 have great jpipes and ATLP is gonna come out with an awesome pipe....but PCD's are what they are....
i would get the PCD's for more HP for a cheaper price....
they do not throw a CEL (i have had it for couple years).....just make sure your state does not have emissions as these will not pass that !!!
if not positioned right, and or 02 sensors get damaged....you will get a CEL.
I dont have a check engine light flashing, BUTT, I know that I have a code, just like you!
when ever I plug in the OBDII scanner, the code pops up.
its for the 02 sensor bank1
okay, your code is for running rich on bank 1, sensor 1.
Ihave a code that says slow to respond bank1, sensor1.
I'll have to re-position my defouler to get rid of my code
I dont have a check engine light flashing, BUTT, I know that I have a code, just like you!
when ever I plug in the OBDII scanner, the code pops up.
its for the 02 sensor bank1
okay, your code is for running rich on bank 1, sensor 1.
Ihave a code that says slow to respond bank1, sensor1.
I'll have to re-position my defouler to get rid of my code
It says my Bank 2, sensor 2 is receiving low voltage. Is it possible that the o2 sensor wiring could get caught on something hot and could have possibly melted?
I ask because while I was under the car by the j-pipe, I only unclipped 1 of the 2 clips that was holding the rear bottom o2 sensor in place. I noticed the wiring of the o2 sensor did kind of brush up against a metal surface of something, but I could not figure out what it was leaning on so I left it.
Drove the car Saturday night for about 20 miles, no problems
Drove the car Sunday for about 10 miles, no problems.
Drove the car Monday for ~100 miles, no problems.
Drove the car today (Tuesday) for 25 miles, CEL turns on.
I'm thinking that the part the o2 sensor wiring was kind of brushing up against might have heated up for it to melt, but if that's the case than why didn't it occur on Monday? I looked up the code and like I said it's for bank 2 sensor 2 receiving low voltage.
I'll have to raise the car and check it tomorrow or this weekend if I get time.
The car DOES NOT idle different, start different, or drive (acceleration / power) different. Everything seems just fine despite the CEL and the dtc. Any ideas?
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
@VIET when the CEL is on, you getting shitty gas mileage ???
well couple things here:
1> just drive the way it is and let some carbon deposit in the defoulers
2> after ~500-800 miles on the defoulers, reset your ECU....
this should do the trick.....
well couple things here:
1> just drive the way it is and let some carbon deposit in the defoulers
2> after ~500-800 miles on the defoulers, reset your ECU....
this should do the trick.....
For the 100 miles i've driven without the CEL i've averaged 25/26MPG.
I drove home from school today with the CEL on which means I've driven about ~45-50 miles since it threw the code and my average MPG is still 25 (maybe I might need to put another 100 miles on it or so to be able to tell if my gas mileage is suffering or gaining)
I really hope what you're saying about letting the carbon buildup and resetting the ECU is correct, because knowing my luck when I check under my car for the wiring everything will look just fine and I won't be able to find out why I have the P0157 code..
I installed my PCD on saturday and have been driving the car just fine. This morning while making a 35 mile trip to class, about 30 miles into driving my CEL came on and threw a code for P0157.
It says my Bank 2, sensor 2 is receiving low voltage. Is it possible that the o2 sensor wiring could get caught on something hot and could have possibly melted?
I ask because while I was under the car by the j-pipe, I only unclipped 1 of the 2 clips that was holding the rear bottom o2 sensor in place. I noticed the wiring of the o2 sensor did kind of brush up against a metal surface of something, but I could not figure out what it was leaning on so I left it.
Drove the car Saturday night for about 20 miles, no problems
Drove the car Sunday for about 10 miles, no problems.
Drove the car Monday for ~100 miles, no problems.
Drove the car today (Tuesday) for 25 miles, CEL turns on.
I'm thinking that the part the o2 sensor wiring was kind of brushing up against might have heated up for it to melt, but if that's the case than why didn't it occur on Monday? I looked up the code and like I said it's for bank 2 sensor 2 receiving low voltage.
I'll have to raise the car and check it tomorrow or this weekend if I get time.
The car DOES NOT idle different, start different, or drive (acceleration / power) different. Everything seems just fine despite the CEL and the dtc. Any ideas?
It says my Bank 2, sensor 2 is receiving low voltage. Is it possible that the o2 sensor wiring could get caught on something hot and could have possibly melted?
I ask because while I was under the car by the j-pipe, I only unclipped 1 of the 2 clips that was holding the rear bottom o2 sensor in place. I noticed the wiring of the o2 sensor did kind of brush up against a metal surface of something, but I could not figure out what it was leaning on so I left it.
Drove the car Saturday night for about 20 miles, no problems
Drove the car Sunday for about 10 miles, no problems.
Drove the car Monday for ~100 miles, no problems.
Drove the car today (Tuesday) for 25 miles, CEL turns on.
I'm thinking that the part the o2 sensor wiring was kind of brushing up against might have heated up for it to melt, but if that's the case than why didn't it occur on Monday? I looked up the code and like I said it's for bank 2 sensor 2 receiving low voltage.
I'll have to raise the car and check it tomorrow or this weekend if I get time.
The car DOES NOT idle different, start different, or drive (acceleration / power) different. Everything seems just fine despite the CEL and the dtc. Any ideas?
how was the power gain?.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
I barely filled up on gas Monday and reset my MID.
For the 100 miles i've driven without the CEL i've averaged 25/26MPG.
I drove home from school today with the CEL on which means I've driven about ~45-50 miles since it threw the code and my average MPG is still 25 (maybe I might need to put another 100 miles on it or so to be able to tell if my gas mileage is suffering or gaining)
I really hope what you're saying about letting the carbon buildup and resetting the ECU is correct, because knowing my luck when I check under my car for the wiring everything will look just fine and I won't be able to find out why I have the P0157 code..
For the 100 miles i've driven without the CEL i've averaged 25/26MPG.
I drove home from school today with the CEL on which means I've driven about ~45-50 miles since it threw the code and my average MPG is still 25 (maybe I might need to put another 100 miles on it or so to be able to tell if my gas mileage is suffering or gaining)
I really hope what you're saying about letting the carbon buildup and resetting the ECU is correct, because knowing my luck when I check under my car for the wiring everything will look just fine and I won't be able to find out why I have the P0157 code..
you installed the defoulers on the bottom O2 sensors right ???
02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
Power gains were noticeable, still wish I had a 6 speed though.
bank 1 is the cat near firewall, bank 2 is in front by radiator. power gain was noticable?, everyone ive met with richard's precat delete's say they are amazing. haha. how was the noise increase on idle? and on coast? (not talking about your rasp) how is it the upgrade on a scale 1-10?








