J-Pipe pr0n! Actually, I REALLY DO have a few questions...

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Old 02-06-2009, 03:40 PM
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J-Pipe pr0n! Actually, I REALLY DO have a few questions...

So this is what I got with the kit... Beautiful!!!



The hardware:



So I'm not a total newb at this, but I rather just ask and make sure than start guessing
(I just want all the hardware in the right place). I wish I had picture instructions! I can figure
out where all the gaskets go. But where does that huge bolt on the left go? How bout the flat washers?
What about the springy(?) washers? Do the six nuts bolts and washers go on both ends of the test pipe?
SOrry about the question, it may be straight forward to some, but not to others. How about those other
bolts to the furthest right (those go to the two cats attached to the head)?


Here's some more pr0n of my rv6. I wish I could get the precat deletes but smog check is a bitch in Cali.
And I can't be spending a couple of hours installing, uninstalling, and then reinstalling for the smog checks.
Are there any alternatives? Does anyone make a high flow cat that can replace those two main ones?


Rv6 Jpipe



Test Pipe (resonated)


Test pipe cross section

Old 02-06-2009, 05:29 PM
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rv6 has the precat deletes, should bought the package, woulda been 575 shipped

edit: nevermind, just re read it, i think someone makes the high flow precats but I dont know
Old 02-06-2009, 05:37 PM
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Looks like you are missing some bolts as I was.. You need 3 bolts per pre cat (6 total), and 3 bolts per side of the 3rd cat (6 total) for a total of 12 bolts, nuts and washers..
Old 02-06-2009, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pffpffpass
Looks like you are missing some bolts as I was.. You need 3 bolts per pre cat (6 total), and 3 bolts per side of the 3rd cat (6 total) for a total of 12 bolts, nuts and washers..
I don't have the precat deletes... Do i got all the hardware I need then? I just wanted to know where it all goes. like those six nuts and bolts and the washers... Those go on the j-pipe to test pipe to catback? I haven't gotten under the car, it's raining today, so I just wante know before I got under there myself.
Old 02-06-2009, 06:42 PM
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Oh wait thats right I forgot you dont have precats.. The stock precats have studs, so it looks like you do have everything needed..

As for where they go, you will figure it out bro..
Old 02-06-2009, 07:13 PM
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The 6 nuts and bolts are used to connect the jpipe to test pipe and test pipe to exhaust. I usually go flat washer, lock washer and nut. You have everything you need the flanged nuts are replacements for your precat studs. The big bolt thing is a O2 bung you dont need it is just optional in case you get a wideband.
Old 02-06-2009, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Richie v6
The 6 nuts and bolts are used to connect the jpipe to test pipe and test pipe to exhaust. I usually go flat washer, lock washer and nut. You have everything you need the flanged nuts are replacements for your precat studs. The big bolt thing is a O2 bung you dont need it is just optional in case you get a wideband.
Thank you! That is EXACTLY what I needed to know... thanks again... this thing is goin' in tomorrow!
Old 02-06-2009, 08:56 PM
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Good luck! You will be pleased when you are done!!
Old 02-08-2009, 12:19 AM
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When I had my rv6 j pipe and test pipe put in I really did not notice a difference in power or sound. Tonight however I reset my ECU using this method https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/after-putting-v-power-709074/ and gains are more noticeable now. I was very sad when it got installed and I did notice a difference.
Old 02-08-2009, 04:48 PM
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where does the flage - gasket - flange fit into the bolt - washer - lock washer - nut sequence for the test pipe?
Old 02-08-2009, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mglax13
where does the flage - gasket - flange fit into the bolt - washer - lock washer - nut sequence for the test pipe?
I went this way (on both sides) Bolt, test pipe Flange, Exhaust/J-Pipe Flange, Flat washer, Lock washer, then nut...

Ok so I got this thing installeD!! w0000000000t!!! It took me an hour... I was by myself using a floor jack and some jack stands... Oh what brand can give me the best height from a floor jack? THe one I had sufficed but I really could have used a little more room.

Anyway, Placebo effect? Not quite sure. I reset my ECU already too using the 'gas pedal method.' THe care feels more responsive, but is that in my mind? Maybe I"m just driving faster than I normally do now. There is this brooding sound at midrange though... feels like something is waiting to be unleashed as soon as I mash the pedal. The growl is pretty good at WOT even with the stock exhaust on, but there is absolutely no drone just driving 'normallly'. Of course, I don't have the precats... maybe soon? HEHE

Oh and I turned it on in the middle of the install... hahaha couldn't resist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z0yya9jsGU
Old 02-08-2009, 10:00 PM
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WOW cool. I didn't know the ECU needed resetting after J-pipe/res test pipe install. I plan on getting the same pkg from Richard tomorrow? I would get the $575 pkg but I want to pass emissions.
Old 02-08-2009, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JD TL-S
WOW cool. I didn't know the ECU needed resetting after J-pipe/res test pipe install. I plan on getting the same pkg from Richard tomorrow? I would get the $575 pkg but I want to pass emissions.
If you get that one... You are including the precat deletes in addition to what I got. But you WILL NOT pass smog. You are basically 'catless' and have a straight pipe all the way through from the head to the exhaust.
Old 02-09-2009, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gatdammit
I went this way (on both sides) Bolt, test pipe Flange, Exhaust/J-Pipe Flange, Flat washer, Lock washer, then nut...

Ok so I got this thing installeD!! w0000000000t!!! It took me an hour... I was by myself using a floor jack and some jack stands... Oh what brand can give me the best height from a floor jack? THe one I had sufficed but I really could have used a little more room.

Anyway, Placebo effect? Not quite sure. I reset my ECU already too using the 'gas pedal method.' THe care feels more responsive, but is that in my mind? Maybe I"m just driving faster than I normally do now. There is this brooding sound at midrange though... feels like something is waiting to be unleashed as soon as I mash the pedal. The growl is pretty good at WOT even with the stock exhaust on, but there is absolutely no drone just driving 'normallly'. Of course, I don't have the precats... maybe soon? HEHE

Oh and I turned it on in the middle of the install... hahaha couldn't resist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z0yya9jsGU
whoaaa!!!!!!! my exhaust sounds nothing like that what else have you done to it?? is it just the precats??

edit: im so stupid i didnt read the part where it said no j pipe
Old 02-09-2009, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gatdammit
I went this way (on both sides) Bolt, test pipe Flange, Exhaust/J-Pipe Flange, Flat washer, Lock washer, then nut...

Ok so I got this thing installeD!! w0000000000t!!! It took me an hour... I was by myself using a floor jack and some jack stands... Oh what brand can give me the best height from a floor jack? THe one I had sufficed but I really could have used a little more room.

Anyway, Placebo effect? Not quite sure. I reset my ECU already too using the 'gas pedal method.' THe care feels more responsive, but is that in my mind? Maybe I"m just driving faster than I normally do now. There is this brooding sound at midrange though... feels like something is waiting to be unleashed as soon as I mash the pedal. The growl is pretty good at WOT even with the stock exhaust on, but there is absolutely no drone just driving 'normallly'. Of course, I don't have the precats... maybe soon? HEHE

Oh and I turned it on in the middle of the install... hahaha couldn't resist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z0yya9jsGU
Damn, that's loud! I think it's a good thing we can't quite get our cars that loud without the Stage 3 exhaust.
Old 02-09-2009, 01:49 AM
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Omg, I wonder how it would be like for someone to run their car without j-pipe, and exhaust system, basically bolt everything off from jpipe and back.
Old 02-09-2009, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by gatdammit
If you get that one... You are including the precat deletes in addition to what I got. But you WILL NOT pass smog. You are basically 'catless' and have a straight pipe all the way through from the head to the exhaust.
NO I need to pass emissions. I am meeting Richard today to buy the J-pipe and resonated 3rd cat delete(special).

SO I need to re-boot the ECU to get HP increase? It won't learn on its own?

Sorry, I have been on this comp everyday reading info on MANY MODS I am doing now. Exhaust, intake, clearing headlights, installing angel eyes, installing TLS tail lights with my A-Spec body kit, LEDS for cleared head lights, etc. Man I need to slow down.
Old 02-09-2009, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by coconut
Omg, I wonder how it would be like for someone to run their car without j-pipe, and exhaust system, basically bolt everything off from jpipe and back.


I drove it that way... it kind of felt like the car was floating... but it also was like a non street legal v8.. waay too loud, everyone kept loooking as I rolled on by
Old 02-09-2009, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by coconut
Omg, I wonder how it would be like for someone to run their car without j-pipe, and exhaust system, basically bolt everything off from jpipe and back.
That IS how it sounds coming out of the first two cats. I started the car after I pulled out my OEM Jpipe and 3rd Cat...

Oh am I supposed to be getting any "smell" ? I feel like I am, but I could be wrong. Maybe I have a leak? I felt like I tightened everything pretty good with the gaskets and all...
Old 02-09-2009, 12:07 PM
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^ Yeah, funny smell is normal.

But what I was talking about it that actually driving around without jpipe and beyond taken off.
Old 02-09-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by stillhere153
I drove it that way... it kind of felt like the car was floating... but it also was like a non street legal v8.. waay too loud, everyone kept loooking as I rolled on by
"Floating"?
Old 02-09-2009, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by stillhere153
I drove it that way... it kind of felt like the car was floating... but it also was like a non street legal v8.. waay too loud, everyone kept loooking as I rolled on by

I woulda got rolled on in two seconds if I went out like that... haha.. it was way too loud. Even with my car in the garage, my neighbors were like "WTF?! is wrong with you car?!"
Old 02-10-2009, 12:20 AM
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Im thinking to do the J-pipe and test pipe aswell. mostly for low end torque but im still thinking if its worth it and if there is a difference really....

would u suggest or not, i did the pulley already and it does help.
Old 02-10-2009, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BukvaMan
Im thinking to do the J-pipe and test pipe aswell. mostly for low end torque but im still thinking if its worth it and if there is a difference really....

would u suggest or not, i did the pulley already and it does help.
From what I've been reading... It's never just one thing that gives u the gains but a combo of them all. I guess precat deletes jpipe and test pipe are the way to go, but sadly, living in Cali I opted not to go for the precats. Buuiuut I'm happy with what got. Just waiting on the catback now.
Old 02-10-2009, 12:41 AM
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I live in jersey and i dont wanna mess with the emissions either. so pre-cat deletes 90% sure i dont wanna do. Im waiting on the base ATLP catback too. I just wanna get more low end torque out of this car.
Old 02-10-2009, 12:45 AM
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Btw what's the pulley do exactly? I keep reading about this ur pulley. And are there two different kinds?
Old 02-10-2009, 12:54 AM
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there is a underdrive pulley and a stocksize pulley... I have the stock size. its lighter which makes it easier to spin so it frees up some ponies. the underdrive gives a pony or two more since its smaller and even more light but it underdrives ur accessories. electricity wise. so if you plan on running some amps and subs stick to the stock sized one... it improves response and torque and hp. its actually something u can feel.
Old 02-10-2009, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BukvaMan
there is a underdrive pulley and a stocksize pulley... I have the stock size. its lighter which makes it easier to spin so it frees up some ponies. the underdrive gives a pony or two more since its smaller and even more light but it underdrives ur accessories. electricity wise. so if you plan on running some amps and subs stick to the stock sized one... it improves response and torque and hp. its actually something u can feel.
Prolly no amps or subs for me... But what my stock accessories? Will they be affected?
Old 02-10-2009, 01:23 AM
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not really but i wouldnt do it for such a small difference.... plus for the smaller one u need a new belt so additional cost. more expensive
Old 02-10-2009, 01:40 AM
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I've heard the stock one works just fine as well. I think the underdrive is for those who are trying to make serious power at any length.
Old 02-10-2009, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JD TL-S
NO I need to pass emissions. I am meeting Richard today to buy the J-pipe and resonated 3rd cat delete(special).

SO I need to re-boot the ECU to get HP increase? It won't learn on its own?

Sorry, I have been on this comp everyday reading info on MANY MODS I am doing now. Exhaust, intake, clearing headlights, installing angel eyes, installing TLS tail lights with my A-Spec body kit, LEDS for cleared head lights, etc. Man I need to slow down.
Back to the J-Pipe.




Do I need to re-boot the ECU?

On other threads about the XLR8 J-Pipe people were saying the HP increase was big, just for the J-Pipe. Why are people saying they can't feel a diff with the RV6 J-Pipe? I picked one up yesterday with the 3rd cat delete/resonator.

From what I have read/researched, the J-Pipes are all very close in quality/HP gains. So whats up people.

Also, about the ECU re-boot????


Sorry for simple questions, I guess I have alot to learn.
Old 02-10-2009, 08:02 AM
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^Yes, JD, you need to reset the ECU. I've pretty much programmed myself to reset the brain after doing anything to the car, even waxing it...ok, that's a joke but cars are faster when their clean. Thats just plain science.

The TL has a neural-net processor - a 'learning computer'. Seriously, read the UR crank pulley threads and a lot of the guys reported the car really coming to life a few days after the install when the computer finally warmed up to the new equipment. It's a PITA when you have the Navi Hack because I have to re-install that each time. Oh, leave it off for a good 15 minutes or more. Jury's still out on csmeance's throttle blip ECU reset. Turn all the accessories off; turn car off; turn key to position II; hold gas pedal to floor for a minute; restart car and drive it the way you want it to recognize as your normal driving style.
Old 02-10-2009, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by NedShneebly
^Yes, JD, you need to reset the ECU. I've pretty much programmed myself to reset the brain after doing anything to the car, even waxing it...ok, that's a joke but cars are faster when their clean. Thats just plain science.

The TL has a neural-net processor - a 'learning computer'. Seriously, read the UR crank pulley threads and a lot of the guys reported the car really coming to life a few days after the install when the computer finally warmed up to the new equipment. It's a PITA when you have the Navi Hack because I have to re-install that each time. Oh, leave it off for a good 15 minutes or more. Jury's still out on csmeance's throttle blip ECU reset. Turn all the accessories off; turn car off; turn key to position II; hold gas pedal to floor for a minute; restart car and drive it the way you want it to recognize as your normal driving style.

The jury's still out on the 'blip' method? shit... should I just disconnect my battery? I feel something already with the J-pipe and test pipe... would I 'feel' more? Damn, maybe I should just disconnect that battery.
Old 02-10-2009, 12:49 PM
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[QUOTE=JD TL-S;10502374]

Do I need to re-boot the ECU? QUOTE]

A re-boot is not required with any mod. The ECU will adjust as you drive. However, re-booting will help the ECU relearn faster.
As for the crank pulley there is nothing for the ECU to relearn, so no need to re-boot.

Last edited by dj5; 02-10-2009 at 12:52 PM.
Old 02-10-2009, 03:38 PM
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^well, there you go. still, with the 'skynet' like firewall that tuners have had with the ECU, i just go ahead and reset the ECU anyway.
Old 02-10-2009, 04:56 PM
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^ do you need to reset after CAI?
Old 02-10-2009, 09:15 PM
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^it's been recommended on every intake/exhaust mod since day one of the 3G DIYs.

btw, what kinda wheels do you have?
Old 02-10-2009, 09:21 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by gatdammit
I went this way (on both sides) Bolt, test pipe Flange, Exhaust/J-Pipe Flange, Flat washer, Lock washer, then nut...

Ok so I got this thing installeD!! w0000000000t!!! It took me an hour... I was by myself using a floor jack and some jack stands... Oh what brand can give me the best height from a floor jack? THe one I had sufficed but I really could have used a little more room.

Anyway, Placebo effect? Not quite sure. I reset my ECU already too using the 'gas pedal method.' THe care feels more responsive, but is that in my mind? Maybe I"m just driving faster than I normally do now. There is this brooding sound at midrange though... feels like something is waiting to be unleashed as soon as I mash the pedal. The growl is pretty good at WOT even with the stock exhaust on, but there is absolutely no drone just driving 'normallly'. Of course, I don't have the precats... maybe soon? HEHE

Oh and I turned it on in the middle of the install... hahaha couldn't resist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z0yya9jsGU
Is it really that loud with just j pipe and 3rd cat delete with stock exhaust?
Old 02-11-2009, 12:17 AM
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^ no that's basically exhaust coming straight out of the head
Old 02-11-2009, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by NedShneebly
^it's been recommended on every intake/exhaust mod since day one of the 3G DIYs.

btw, what kinda wheels do you have?
20" Iforged daytonas


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