Iridium plugs
#1
Import and Domestic owner
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Location: Atlantic City NJ
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Iridium plugs
Any one try to attempt to change out the spark plugs to iridium plugs yet? If so how? I just checked and the plugs near the firewall look almost impossible to get to. Any suggestions? And is there any performance gains from them
#2
Registered Offender
I'm yet to look, but I'm sure they are pretty tricky to access. Spark plugs can make a difference but not noticeable for stock or close to stock applications. You'd be better off keeping your stock plugs and indexing and or re-gapping them.
For those who don't know about regapping, The larger spark plug gap your ignition system can overcome will increase the speed of propagation. The faster you have combustion the more power you will produce. Sure, It's only milliseconds and most likely you won't notice any difference unless your TL is TOP FUEL, but if its easy and free, why not?
For those who don't know about indexing plugs, You basically use indexing washers to make a spark plug have it's ground electrode pointing away from the valve/s. For example:
![](http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/07/indexplugs/goodangle.JPG)
This helps keep the ignition of mixture moving at the center of the chamber to achieve maximum combustion efficiency. The proper position of the spark plug needs to be that the gap is facing towards the valves, so that the spark is fully aimed at the center of the combustion chamber.
For those who don't know about regapping, The larger spark plug gap your ignition system can overcome will increase the speed of propagation. The faster you have combustion the more power you will produce. Sure, It's only milliseconds and most likely you won't notice any difference unless your TL is TOP FUEL, but if its easy and free, why not?
For those who don't know about indexing plugs, You basically use indexing washers to make a spark plug have it's ground electrode pointing away from the valve/s. For example:
This helps keep the ignition of mixture moving at the center of the chamber to achieve maximum combustion efficiency. The proper position of the spark plug needs to be that the gap is facing towards the valves, so that the spark is fully aimed at the center of the combustion chamber.
#3
Originally Posted by againstallodds1
Any one try to attempt to change out the spark plugs to iridium plugs yet? If so how? I just checked and the plugs near the firewall look almost impossible to get to. Any suggestions? And is there any performance gains from them
Also, there is no real reason to increase gap as it is, as .044 is enough to properly expose the spark to the mixture and create the proper flame kernal for a very effecient combustion cycle. The fact that this engine performs well in the strict emissions standards means that Honda has done alot to make combustion effecient. Of cource, all things have been considered including combustion chamber design, spark plug placement, ignition system, valve seat design, piston dome design ect.
Furthermore, a common misconception is that changing spark plugs will result in a large power increase. In most cases, removing even seriously worn out spark plugs will only result in very modest power gains, typically about 1-2% of total engine output. This could be even less for computer-controlled vehicles, primarily because most newer vehicles have more powerful ignition systems.
Many people think that simply supplying more spark to the firing tip can and will combust more fuel. What they don't understand is that most newer cars' engines are so efficient that they are already burning all of the available fuel. Simply adding more spark voltage can't burn more fuel because there is no more fuel to burn.
When a stock or near-stock engine is given a fresh set of spark plugs, peak efficiency is restored. The power gains that come from this restored state of tune are usually minimal. Any company that tells you that their spark plug will provide significant gains in power in a stock or near-stock engine is making blanket statements that may not be supportable.
If you were adding a powerful aftermarket ignition system(not needed since the stock ignition system is more than enough) you could increase gap by 002-.005".
If you have a forced induction set-up or N20, you would need to decrease gap by .002-.004 per every 50 hp added. This is to keep the spark from actually being blown out, causing mis-fires.
CJ
#5
Middle Finger anyone?
iTrader: (9)
I changed my spark plugs yesterday cause I don't think they have ever been changed since the car rolled off the factory floor. I can confirm that I took out NGK Iridiums. The ceramic was tarnished, the electrodes were almost gone, and one of the little hooks was actually touching the electrode (no gap). Yikes.
To get to the back ones you have to...
1) Take off all engine bay covers except battery cover.
2)Remove the strut bar.
From there it's cake. It took about 10 min. to find and unbolt everything from the strut bar, but only took a couple minutes to put it back in. Just keep your bolts organized. In all it took me 40min. to change them. I took my time and cleaned the covers before putting them back in.
To get to the back ones you have to...
1) Take off all engine bay covers except battery cover.
2)Remove the strut bar.
From there it's cake. It took about 10 min. to find and unbolt everything from the strut bar, but only took a couple minutes to put it back in. Just keep your bolts organized. In all it took me 40min. to change them. I took my time and cleaned the covers before putting them back in.
#6
Three Wheelin'
you shouldnt run nothing but stock plugs, theyre NGK, and theyre IRIDIUM. whoever said something about "platinum"...
there's threads that have discussions about this, but i think they're ignored, because ppl look for diff answers "anything to back up their decisions"
the link below has the cold hard truth...
here, so i dont have to type it all over again
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/e3-diamond-spark-plugs-anyone-740084/
there's threads that have discussions about this, but i think they're ignored, because ppl look for diff answers "anything to back up their decisions"
the link below has the cold hard truth...
here, so i dont have to type it all over again
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/e3-diamond-spark-plugs-anyone-740084/
#7
Team Owner
I changed my spark plugs yesterday cause I don't think they have ever been changed since the car rolled off the factory floor. I can confirm that I took out NGK Iridiums. The ceramic was tarnished, the electrodes were almost gone, and one of the little hooks was actually touching the electrode (no gap). Yikes.
To get to the back ones you have to...
1) Take off all engine bay covers except battery cover.
2)Remove the strut bar.
From there it's cake. It took about 10 min. to find and unbolt everything from the strut bar, but only took a couple minutes to put it back in. Just keep your bolts organized. In all it took me 40min. to change them. I took my time and cleaned the covers before putting them back in.
To get to the back ones you have to...
1) Take off all engine bay covers except battery cover.
2)Remove the strut bar.
From there it's cake. It took about 10 min. to find and unbolt everything from the strut bar, but only took a couple minutes to put it back in. Just keep your bolts organized. In all it took me 40min. to change them. I took my time and cleaned the covers before putting them back in.
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#8
Senior Moderator
wow, 4yr old thread resurrection! I was kinda happy at first to see againstallodds1 back, but it looks like I was wrong....
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