Innovative Mounts Review
#162
Safety Car
hm...i wonder if there's a diy for the front and rear mounts; i saw the one on the side one - crystal clear. anyone know the other end of that vacuum line leads to specifically? obviously, the motor mounts...but it doesn't seem like the side on has a vac line...dunno about the front and rears. should be i be expecting the line to gush out fluid after taking it off?
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hm...i wonder if there's a diy for the front and rear mounts; i saw the one on the side one - crystal clear. anyone know the other end of that vacuum line leads to specifically? obviously, the motor mounts...but it doesn't seem like the side on has a vac line...dunno about the front and rears. should be i be expecting the line to gush out fluid after taking it off?
about vac line....either you can stick a nipple where it originates or you can zip tie them....i think INNACURATE has put a nipple where the vac line originates and many other have it zip-tied......
#164
Safety Car
LOL i wrote the DIY for the side....gimme time till early next week imma write a diy for front and rear as well
about vac line....either you can stick a nipple where it originates or you can zip tie them....i think INNACURATE has put a nipple where the vac line originates and many other have it zip-tied......
about vac line....either you can stick a nipple where it originates or you can zip tie them....i think INNACURATE has put a nipple where the vac line originates and many other have it zip-tied......
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The vac line goes to only 1 mount....the rear mount....
#166
Safety Car
#167
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SHIT am in LUV with "WRITING DIY's"
#169
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^^^ i took a very close look on my front mount (while it was still mounted) and I couldnt see anything....i think i will get a clear picture while am replacing it.....
Thanks for saving me from a SHOCKER......
Thanks for saving me from a SHOCKER......
#170
Safety Car
#174
Safety Car
so then where exactly are you guys zip-tying? can someone take a picture? how come nobody has a problem with fluid leaking from the vac lines?...bend and then zip tie....where?
#175
#176
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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It's a vacuum line. The engine running creates an air vacuum (hence the nipple on the manifold).
Not plugging this creates a leak in your intake manifold, hence the stumbling/rough running folks have reported by NOT plugging it.
The MOUNT is liquid filled, but it's sealed.
The hose nipple connects to the mount on the bottom side. You'll see it when you get it loose. Simply pull it loose, fold it over itself, and zip tie it that way to seal it off.
#177
Safety Car
LOL.
It's a vacuum line. The engine running creates an air vacuum (hence the nipple on the manifold).
Not plugging this creates a leak in your intake manifold, hence the stumbling/rough running folks have reported by NOT plugging it.
The MOUNT is liquid filled, but it's sealed.
The hose nipple connects to the mount on the bottom side. You'll see it when you get it loose. Simply pull it loose, fold it over itself, and zip tie it that way to seal it off.
It's a vacuum line. The engine running creates an air vacuum (hence the nipple on the manifold).
Not plugging this creates a leak in your intake manifold, hence the stumbling/rough running folks have reported by NOT plugging it.
The MOUNT is liquid filled, but it's sealed.
The hose nipple connects to the mount on the bottom side. You'll see it when you get it loose. Simply pull it loose, fold it over itself, and zip tie it that way to seal it off.
#178
I have car ADD
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LOL.
It's a vacuum line. The engine running creates an air vacuum (hence the nipple on the manifold).
Not plugging this creates a leak in your intake manifold, hence the stumbling/rough running folks have reported by NOT plugging it.
The MOUNT is liquid filled, but it's sealed.
The hose nipple connects to the mount on the bottom side. You'll see it when you get it loose. Simply pull it loose, fold it over itself, and zip tie it that way to seal it off.
It's a vacuum line. The engine running creates an air vacuum (hence the nipple on the manifold).
Not plugging this creates a leak in your intake manifold, hence the stumbling/rough running folks have reported by NOT plugging it.
The MOUNT is liquid filled, but it's sealed.
The hose nipple connects to the mount on the bottom side. You'll see it when you get it loose. Simply pull it loose, fold it over itself, and zip tie it that way to seal it off.
#180
Safety Car
Doubt that your 90-second periodic "vibrating chair syndrome" is from a vacuum leak. My vacuum port is securely capped with a real vacuum plug at the manifold, and mine still does it.
Regarding your question.... it does not matter where along the hose that it is sealed-off. To test it, place your finger over the end of the hose to see if a vacuum pulls agianst your finger while the engine is idling in Park. If you feel a vacuum against your finger, your crimp is not good enough. Disclaimer - Please be careful when poking around under the hood with the engine running.... Chop-o-matic
#182
Safety Car
question: when you guys jack the car up, and then raise the motor via a block on the oil pan, how MUCH do you need to raise the motor? you're just taking pressure off the motor mounts? front and back???
#184
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^^^ sorry I have been off the forums for a while.....
so here is how you do it.....since my car was very low we couldnt get the hydraulic jack under the front.....
1> so jack the car up a little using the stock jack and get the hydraulic dude under the car and raise it.....
2> put jack stands under the car and put the car on the stands
3> now put the hydraulic jack under the oil pan....dont just place the jack directly under the oil pan....put a piece of wood to distribute the weight a little more.....
4> jack it up a little....
5> for the front: get the fans off.....(7 bolts and 3 wire connections for both the fans)....
6> take the bolts of the mounts
7> mine was a bitch to come off....so jack the engine up a little more....
8> it comes off.....replace it with innovative mounts.....bolt everything back.....put the fan back....zip tie the vacuum line....
9> for the rear....i didnt take my strut bar off, since the bolts on the sturt bar were stripping....
10> you need a 20" extension, a U-joint, another 3" extension.....
11> i was doggie-styling the engine from top and BUDA (Sean) was under the car.....LOL....we did switch positions couple times ....hope my girl doesnt read this
12> so well got the 5 bolts off....the rear was a baby to come off....only while putting it back it wouldnt go back in.....
13> so BUDA suggested we directly jack up the engine.....so the car is on stands.....the oil pan is jacked up using a jack and a piece of wood.....we took a beefy rachet put it on the stock jack and jacked the engine by placing the rachet right underneath the mount attachment.....where the top bolt goes (on the mount), there is a metal piece extending out (from the engine block)....
14> the mount slipped in perfect....the bottom 4 bolts went it.....
15> now jack the rachet off so that the top bolt matches and screw that in
16> tighten everything.....zip tie the vacuum line....
17> take the jacks off
18> enjoy the massage
PS: for taking the front mount off....wiggle wiggle and it comes off....for the rear mount....we unbolted the fuse box and a metal connector on the engine block.....turn the mount sideways and it comes out.....be ready for a whole bunch of scratches......
imma post some pictures later today or tomorrow.....
so here is how you do it.....since my car was very low we couldnt get the hydraulic jack under the front.....
1> so jack the car up a little using the stock jack and get the hydraulic dude under the car and raise it.....
2> put jack stands under the car and put the car on the stands
3> now put the hydraulic jack under the oil pan....dont just place the jack directly under the oil pan....put a piece of wood to distribute the weight a little more.....
4> jack it up a little....
5> for the front: get the fans off.....(7 bolts and 3 wire connections for both the fans)....
6> take the bolts of the mounts
7> mine was a bitch to come off....so jack the engine up a little more....
8> it comes off.....replace it with innovative mounts.....bolt everything back.....put the fan back....zip tie the vacuum line....
9> for the rear....i didnt take my strut bar off, since the bolts on the sturt bar were stripping....
10> you need a 20" extension, a U-joint, another 3" extension.....
11> i was doggie-styling the engine from top and BUDA (Sean) was under the car.....LOL....we did switch positions couple times ....hope my girl doesnt read this
12> so well got the 5 bolts off....the rear was a baby to come off....only while putting it back it wouldnt go back in.....
13> so BUDA suggested we directly jack up the engine.....so the car is on stands.....the oil pan is jacked up using a jack and a piece of wood.....we took a beefy rachet put it on the stock jack and jacked the engine by placing the rachet right underneath the mount attachment.....where the top bolt goes (on the mount), there is a metal piece extending out (from the engine block)....
14> the mount slipped in perfect....the bottom 4 bolts went it.....
15> now jack the rachet off so that the top bolt matches and screw that in
16> tighten everything.....zip tie the vacuum line....
17> take the jacks off
18> enjoy the massage
PS: for taking the front mount off....wiggle wiggle and it comes off....for the rear mount....we unbolted the fuse box and a metal connector on the engine block.....turn the mount sideways and it comes out.....be ready for a whole bunch of scratches......
imma post some pictures later today or tomorrow.....
Last edited by swoosh; 04-23-2009 at 11:41 AM.
#185
Safety Car
hm...doesn't sound too bad of an install man. thanks for the write up...
but i'm still an amateur...can you explain the "jacking the engine up directly" part? are you actually using a LIFT to pull up the motor a tad? thanks
but i'm still an amateur...can you explain the "jacking the engine up directly" part? are you actually using a LIFT to pull up the motor a tad? thanks
#186
Starcraft II addict
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Glad to see you finally got that info posted up! To help paint the picture for the rear mount. Jacking up the oil pan just wasn't allowing us to get the new mount in. While I was underneath the car I noticed the mount point coming out from the engine had a groove in it. That groove was perfect for sticking the bottom end of the 18" long 1/2" drive craftsman breaker bar. We stuck the base of the handle in the groove and pointed the breaker bar straight down. Then we put the OEM jack under the head of the breaker bar and jacked it up a little bit. It didn't take much and it worked like a charm.
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#188
Registered VTEC junkie
I changed out my front and side mounts yesterday. I didn't have time (and too lazy) to get the rear. With 39k miles on the odo, the side & front stock mounts seemed fine and showed no signs of any damage. I did notice that one of the stock bolts that goes into the body on the side mount was rusty. The driver side fan gave me a hard time. I couldn't get my hands in there to undo the wire clips so I had to just move it aside to manuever the front mount out. I torqued the middle bolts on the Innovative mounts to 35 lbs. With only the front and side mounts put in, there's suttle vibration. Most of any vibration is apparent when the foot is slowly let off the clutch to engage engine-for example, when backing up. It reminds me of a high-performance clutch I had in my Integra. At idle, there's a very small amount of vibration. After the mounts were put in, the engine feels and sounds like it's putting the power to the ground more efficiently. There's a higher pitch sound that the engine has now. Wheel hop is diminished. One day I'll get off my lazy butt and put the rear mount in..Thanx to all who gave input on this mod, you gave me the confidence to install this myself!
Last edited by jchcmax; 04-23-2009 at 05:06 PM. Reason: because I felt like it
#192
just wanted to clarify
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
#193
Safety Car
Here are some pics from my install today. Not saying that I did it the best way, but it worked for me. Took me 5 hours.
In the pic below, the LONG extension is highlighted with a red line. The extension is a 20" Craftsman 3/8" drive. Reaching the bolts were the easiest part of the job. Note the strut bar is removed.
To remove the rear and front mount, the engine needed to be raised to take the weight off of the mounts. I lifted the engine via 2x4 against some beefy bosses on the block. I am NOT a fan of apply pressure to the oil pan (weak cast metal?...I don't want to find out...I do know it would be a major screw-up if it cracked).
In the pic below, this illustrates how I wiggled the rear mount out of the car. Keep the mount upside down because it is easier to unsnag the mount when it hangs up on wires and hoses. Use a lot of pateince and take your time to wiggle the mount through the maze of wires and hoses.
I was able to remove the front mount without removing either radiator fan. I was able to remove the side mount without lifting the engine.
In the pic below, the LONG extension is highlighted with a red line. The extension is a 20" Craftsman 3/8" drive. Reaching the bolts were the easiest part of the job. Note the strut bar is removed.
To remove the rear and front mount, the engine needed to be raised to take the weight off of the mounts. I lifted the engine via 2x4 against some beefy bosses on the block. I am NOT a fan of apply pressure to the oil pan (weak cast metal?...I don't want to find out...I do know it would be a major screw-up if it cracked).
In the pic below, this illustrates how I wiggled the rear mount out of the car. Keep the mount upside down because it is easier to unsnag the mount when it hangs up on wires and hoses. Use a lot of pateince and take your time to wiggle the mount through the maze of wires and hoses.
I was able to remove the front mount without removing either radiator fan. I was able to remove the side mount without lifting the engine.
#195
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^^^ yup 5.....4 in the bottom and 1 uptop.....
#196
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just wanted to clarify
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
after i put these mounts in, i tightened the vibramount bolt
#197
Safety Car
i ripped on the vac line to the front motor mount -_- DAMN! it isn't repairable, is it? it's so small! anyways, it's just there...not plugged. i'm assuming that won't be much of a problem, right?
#198
312 HP 271 TQ Dynapack
iTrader: (1)
just wanted to clarify
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
Switching to 60a mounts would less motor vibration/wheel hop, so would that put less stress on the CAI mount?
If so, this would be a good idea for those who are afraid to rip a hole in their intake?
^ By the way nice low pro jack! gotta get me one of those
sears might have it??sdfgsdgf
#199
Safety Car
#200
I have car ADD
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LOL... good description of the periodic "vibrating chair syndrome". Yep, mine does the same vibration every 90 seconds are so. Some days are worse than others. I am use to it by now although.
Doubt that your 90-second periodic "vibrating chair syndrome" is from a vacuum leak. My vacuum port is securely capped with a real vacuum plug at the manifold, and mine still does it.
Regarding your question.... it does not matter where along the hose that it is sealed-off. To test it, place your finger over the end of the hose to see if a vacuum pulls agianst your finger while the engine is idling in Park. If you feel a vacuum against your finger, your crimp is not good enough. Disclaimer - Please be careful when poking around under the hood with the engine running.... Chop-o-matic
Doubt that your 90-second periodic "vibrating chair syndrome" is from a vacuum leak. My vacuum port is securely capped with a real vacuum plug at the manifold, and mine still does it.
Regarding your question.... it does not matter where along the hose that it is sealed-off. To test it, place your finger over the end of the hose to see if a vacuum pulls agianst your finger while the engine is idling in Park. If you feel a vacuum against your finger, your crimp is not good enough. Disclaimer - Please be careful when poking around under the hood with the engine running.... Chop-o-matic
BUT, it was 85 degrees in NY today... and i had to use the A/C.. ..first time in since the week of the install... HOLY SH*T !!!!! my car shakes like Michael J Fox...... i am used to it, but my CF hood shakes, and my dash above the center speaker/navi screen rattle like hell with the A/C on..