If you had an '08 TLS short block and a '07 TL, what would you do?
#1
If you had an '08 TLS short block and a '07 TL, what would you do?
As the heading states I have a '08 TLS short block with about 20k on it and my '07 TL. The thought of putting the 3.5 into my car is kind of out the window as the wiring is looking to be more work than it is worth. Wasn't sure if I can use the block for a base build or if it is a big paper weight that cannot be used at all in my car.
Just trying to get savvy on what is interchangeable from car to car.
Jesse
Just trying to get savvy on what is interchangeable from car to car.
Jesse
#2
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
As the heading states I have a '08 TLS short block with about 20k on it and my '07 TL. The thought of putting the 3.5 into my car is kind of out the window as the wiring is looking to be more work than it is worth. Wasn't sure if I can use the block for a base build or if it is a big paper weight that cannot be used at all in my car.
Just trying to get savvy on what is interchangeable from car to car.
Jesse
Just trying to get savvy on what is interchangeable from car to car.
Jesse
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C2CuSn07 TL (03-24-2013)
#3
You could expect to replace most (if not most) engine and trans mounts
as well as
engine harness
sub-harness
ECM
immobilizer
as well as add a coolant temp sensor in/near the radiator.
In addition to that, you must also purchase and install
a fuel pump control module to keep the check engine light off.
as well as
engine harness
sub-harness
ECM
immobilizer
as well as add a coolant temp sensor in/near the radiator.
In addition to that, you must also purchase and install
a fuel pump control module to keep the check engine light off.
JEBUS!!! That is a long weekend.
#6
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
If I was to start any j build again from scratch I would sleeve the block first, period.
I'm pretty far into my engine besides upping compression and tune there is not much more left that I want to do but add boost.
I'm kicking myself for not sleeving the block with the bore because now I think I would not be able to add much boost at all.
Being able to boost my engine now would put it in a different league I wish I could get to.
If your going to build it sleeve it.
Even N/A I would sleeve it too because I'm sure the sleeves could be bored larger than 90mm for a N/A application.
I'm pretty far into my engine besides upping compression and tune there is not much more left that I want to do but add boost.
I'm kicking myself for not sleeving the block with the bore because now I think I would not be able to add much boost at all.
Being able to boost my engine now would put it in a different league I wish I could get to.
If your going to build it sleeve it.
Even N/A I would sleeve it too because I'm sure the sleeves could be bored larger than 90mm for a N/A application.
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yungone501 (03-24-2013)
#7
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
If I was to start any j build again from scratch I would sleeve the block first, period.
I'm pretty far into my engine besides upping compression and tune there is not much more left that I want to do but add boost.
I'm kicking myself for not sleeving the block with the bore because now I think I would not be able to add much boost at all.
Being able to boost my engine now would put it in a different league I wish I could get to.
If your going to build it sleeve it.
Even N/A I would sleeve it too because I'm sure the sleeves could be bored larger than 90mm for a N/A application.
I'm pretty far into my engine besides upping compression and tune there is not much more left that I want to do but add boost.
I'm kicking myself for not sleeving the block with the bore because now I think I would not be able to add much boost at all.
Being able to boost my engine now would put it in a different league I wish I could get to.
If your going to build it sleeve it.
Even N/A I would sleeve it too because I'm sure the sleeves could be bored larger than 90mm for a N/A application.
1. Stronger ductile material
2. Same wall thickness entire height
3. Sleeves have closed deck on top (MID)
The thing is, you must find a full out CNC shop that is first willing to take on an oddball job as such to where they must first literally drill out the existing factory cylinders. Then, a multi-axis CNC machine has to cut specific mounting surfaces that must be within EXTREMELY tight tolerances for the sleeve to be pressed into place. This takes alot of labor and machine time...I would guess anywhere from $1000-1500 plus the $1000-1400 for the Darton sleeves alone!
Good idea? Sure. But no thanks, I'll take my chances with a stock block that has yet to split a cylinder...even at 700+ horsepower at 30psi boost.
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C2CuSn07 TL (03-24-2013)
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#8
One of the best points youve ever made Rich. And I myself couldnt agree more. This is the smartest thing to do. HOWEVER, I do uphold a certain point that most have unknowingly upheld and that is boosting a stock block with a stock bore. Not to say that there isnt one that has failed but I have never read or seen a stock bore split due to excess cylinder pressures...wether caused by boost or nitrous. I measured the other day for my own personal curiousity and found out that the j32a2 block (from top deck) is 8mm at its thickest measuremnt and 5.5. A darton sleeve is 5.8mm in thickness...and thats before being bored from 89mm to 90mm for those doing a 3.7. I wont lie though, there are two advantages to running them:
1. Stronger ductile material
2. Same wall thickness entire height
3. Sleeves have closed deck on top (MID)
The thing is, you must find a full out CNC shop that is first willing to take on an oddball job as such to where they must first literally drill out the existing factory cylinders. Then, a multi-axis CNC machine has to cut specific mounting surfaces that must be within EXTREMELY tight tolerances for the sleeve to be pressed into place. This takes alot of labor and machine time...I would guess anywhere from $1000-1500 plus the $1000-1400 for the Darton sleeves alone!
Good idea? Sure. But no thanks, I'll take my chances with a stock block that has yet to split a cylinder...even at 700+ horsepower at 30psi boost.
1. Stronger ductile material
2. Same wall thickness entire height
3. Sleeves have closed deck on top (MID)
The thing is, you must find a full out CNC shop that is first willing to take on an oddball job as such to where they must first literally drill out the existing factory cylinders. Then, a multi-axis CNC machine has to cut specific mounting surfaces that must be within EXTREMELY tight tolerances for the sleeve to be pressed into place. This takes alot of labor and machine time...I would guess anywhere from $1000-1500 plus the $1000-1400 for the Darton sleeves alone!
Good idea? Sure. But no thanks, I'll take my chances with a stock block that has yet to split a cylinder...even at 700+ horsepower at 30psi boost.
If you do not mind I would be interested in the list of parts I need to start gathering for the swap. I might as well start now in hopes I get it all together by the time this thing hits 200k
Thank you for chiming in on this thread. Me and the guys at the local Acura dealership are looking forward to this.
#10
EDIT: It is an auto. Just to confirm, this is JUST a 3.5 short block. Nothing but the block and bad heads. So I guess you can just consider this a block that we can creatively build up.
Last edited by C2CuSn07 TL; 03-24-2013 at 05:49 PM.
#11
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
Mine is an auto. I will have to check on the donor but I am pretty sure it was an auto as well.
EDIT: It is an auto. Just to confirm, this is JUST a 3.5 short block. Nothing but the block and bad heads. So I guess you can just consider this a block that we can creatively build up.
EDIT: It is an auto. Just to confirm, this is JUST a 3.5 short block. Nothing but the block and bad heads. So I guess you can just consider this a block that we can creatively build up.
The 07-08 3.2 and 07-08 3.5 ECM's both have the exact same coonectors at the ECM and everything throughout the harness is the same as well. Nothing changes therefore it is a direct swap.
Mechanically, you will want to consider many things. Such as j35a8 heads, cams will need to be purchased and installed to take advantage of all the power from the 3.5 block.
Lower runners, injectors, fuel rails, upper intake manifold, throttle body are all the same between the 3.2 and the 3.5 engines.
Its that easy.
Also, I have a spare set of j35a8 heads if you dont find any. PM me if interested.
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C2CuSn07 TL (03-24-2013)
#12
Great. This makes everything extremely simple for the "conversion". Electrically you will need just an ECM. Although you could use the j32a4 ECM, optimally you want the 07-08 TL-S ECM. And between 2007 and 2008, try and find a 2007 TL-S ECM. Otherwise if you run the 2008 TL-S ECM, you will need to replace the immobilizer ECU with one from the same year. Between 2007 and 2008, the immobilzer ECU was changed and are NOT compatible...trust me. Besides, the j35a8 ECM is reflashable with Hondata.
The 07-08 3.2 and 07-08 3.5 ECM's both have the exact same coonectors at the ECM and everything throughout the harness is the same as well. Nothing changes therefore it is a direct swap.
Mechanically, you will want to consider many things. Such as j35a8 heads, cams will need to be purchased and installed to take advantage of all the power from the 3.5 block.
Lower runners, injectors, fuel rails, upper intake manifold, throttle body are all the same between the 3.2 and the 3.5 engines.
Its that easy.
Also, I have a spare set of j35a8 heads if you dont find any. PM me if interested.
The 07-08 3.2 and 07-08 3.5 ECM's both have the exact same coonectors at the ECM and everything throughout the harness is the same as well. Nothing changes therefore it is a direct swap.
Mechanically, you will want to consider many things. Such as j35a8 heads, cams will need to be purchased and installed to take advantage of all the power from the 3.5 block.
Lower runners, injectors, fuel rails, upper intake manifold, throttle body are all the same between the 3.2 and the 3.5 engines.
Its that easy.
Also, I have a spare set of j35a8 heads if you dont find any. PM me if interested.
Man that sounds really really easy. Wonder why this swap is not performed more regularly. I couldn't find many threads on the swap and the ones I have found say it requires a lot of harness hacking and chopping.
#13
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
You might be thinking of 04-06 TL 3.2 conversion to 07-08 TL-S 3.5 ECM...now THAT takes alot of work and won't work unless the car is a manual transmission. Will not work AT all on auto trans due to different design on trans electrically and mechnically...
But the 07 and 08 TL (both 3.2 and 3.5 models) are mechanically and electrically the same with the exception of the displacement from the lower end. This makes then two interchangeable.
The following 2 users liked this post by yungone501:
C2CuSn07 TL (03-24-2013),
Slpr04UA6 (03-25-2013)
#14
You might be thinking of 04-06 TL 3.2 conversion to 07-08 TL-S 3.5 ECM...now THAT takes alot of work and won't work unless the car is a manual transmission. Will not work AT all on auto trans due to different design on trans electrically and mechnically...
But the 07 and 08 TL (both 3.2 and 3.5 models) are mechanically and electrically the same with the exception of the displacement from the lower end. This makes then two interchangeable.
But the 07 and 08 TL (both 3.2 and 3.5 models) are mechanically and electrically the same with the exception of the displacement from the lower end. This makes then two interchangeable.
Any cam suggestions or things you would upgrade (at about the same price point as OEM TLS internals) while I have this thing apart?
#15
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
07-08 TL-S cams are 2nd best.
***edit***
09-12 TL 3.5 pistons are forged aluminum and are pretty cheap as long as they are standard bore and not oversized. Dont worry about replacing rods or crank.
OR
You can do a 3.6 build and get a j37 crank and rods. Add these with the 09+ TL 3.5 aluminum pistons and you have a bad motor. Search around for used j37 parts and you will find them. I just scored on used j37 crank, rods and pistons for $500 with 11k miles!
Last edited by yungone501; 03-24-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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Slpr04UA6 (03-25-2013)
#17
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
As for decking, always deck the block for the obvious reasons (flatness). But if you're speaking in regards to compression increase, as long as the rotating assembly and valvetrain allow for increased tolerances, I'd say sure. Don't go above 11.2:1 as that's what Acura has gone to from the factory. Especially if you're running pump gas only.
Lastly, it is to my understanding that if one is to have a cam reground, use the j35a8 cam as it allows for more lift without taking off excessive material from the back. Preferably the RL cams as they have the most lift out of the j35a8 engines.
#18
All motor
^ This man is always willing to help. Gotta love it.
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Slpr04UA6 (03-25-2013)
#20
#21
J35 is being honed. New rings are being added. J35 heads ordered and shipped. RL Cams also paid for. TLS ECM taken care of. Think we are on the right track here.
Thanks Robert!
Thanks Robert!
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richardparker (04-04-2013)
#26
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
This guy is headstrong on this build.
It's good to have more members here getting involved in doing unique conversions/builds as it generates interest in the import community. The more interest, the more performance products, the cheaper the prices, and the more fun we all have doing what we love the most.
It's good to have more members here getting involved in doing unique conversions/builds as it generates interest in the import community. The more interest, the more performance products, the cheaper the prices, and the more fun we all have doing what we love the most.
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richardparker (04-06-2013)
#30
Senior Moderator
#33
Waiting on an update from my Acura Mastertech buddy. He has all of the parts and I am waiting on the bill (if any) from the machine shop on the short block. Been texting him 2-3 times a week for an update. Hopefully he didn't take the parts and run
#34
J-series addict
iTrader: (4)
Machinist have a bad habit of this. After realizing this, I always went there in person at least twice a week to get an update. And make a deposit on the work along with giving them a preferred deadline for the parts to be finished.
Btw, text me later tonight if you can to discuss something.
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