Meacura86

Without Turbo and Supercharger?

jkopuffs

step on the gas pedal.

Meacura86

Hehe you lie xD

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

1) direct port nitrous and a JnR ECU to control it
2) be like me and spend an amount of money that most people think is retarded on building either the top half of the engine (heads/cams) or do the whole thing with a new bottom end.

You'll never see power numbers like the turbo guys have, but a well-built N/A motor can put up numbers similar to what our supercharger kit offers.

N/A overall less reliability though - to be effective needs to be raised compression which requires higher engine speed so raising rev limits is important, which puts a lot of strain on the bottom end. I'm staying on stock internals but only raising compression to 12:1 and rev limiter to like 7200. Nothing crazy but if you want the most out of a non-boosted build, you'd need to take it farther. Not a cheap option.

Nick216

Theres a jpipe thread, a cai thread and a true dual exhaust thread right below THIS thread . Come on now

Meacura86

Can put with exhaust system 15-20 Ps out?

Kevin17112

CAI (7-10hp), Exhaust(14-15hp).......

Scottwax

Convert to RWD, swap in an LS3.

Meacura86

Is the Tanabe medallion Exhaust system good?

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Tanabe is one of the less popular exhaust systems. Excellerate, ATLP, and RV6 are the hometown favorites.

CAIs do not make 7-10 hp. They might make 1-3 if you're lucky. I felt like I lost low end torque when I opened things up with my AEM V2 CAI.

You're going to do each performance mod incrementally on your 5AT and each time you're going to feel like you need more but you will never really get it. It's a lot of money to spend to virtually feel no improvement in your car. If you had a 6MT, I wouldn't be saying this as I'm sure each mod is more easier felt and wields better gains. With a 5AT, I honestly wouldn't bother going fully bolted unless you plan to go all out and either do a full race build, shed some major weight off the car, or go FI.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

truer words never spoken.

Even with 6mt - it took a lot of mods to feel anything, lol. My passengers feel it and that's with 295 whp - basically every bolt-on mod except ported intake runners.

I'm expecting another jump in feel with the top end of the motor being built (assuming i hit my target of 340-350 whp), but even then, FWD in general just doesn't throw you back in your seat.

It's simple physics. With a RWD car you get the feeling that you're pulling harder (even if you aren't really pulling any harder) because the drivetrain is pushing the car from behind where you sit.

FWD is highly disappointing in terms of feeling any increase in power, even when there is a real significant increase.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Also, what is the reason you want more power?

To make your passengers feel like your car is faster? To win a few more races against some Maximas?

You're negating all extra HP by the extra hundreds of pounds in your car from your passengers so they are feeling the car in its stock form. Granted if you had no bolt ons at all they would feel your car in slower than stock form. You might win a couple extra races with no other passengers in the car but is it really worth it? Spending >$2-3k on making your car capable of beating other family sedans?

Do yourself a favor and get something with an LS1 motor and it will be like playing Forza with your car adding each performance mod and will actually be worth it. Added headers, whoops, I've got too much wheel spin now. The TL is not a racecar. You can make it respectfully faster if you really dump some money into a fully bolted build but it's still going to come short of most stock cars that are built with speed in mind (mustangs, camaros, WRX STIs, etc).

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

as a guy with a fully bolt-on 6mt, I can safely say that I keep direct pace with 370z's, STi's, s187 mustangs, e46's and 335's

Now, if those cars are modded, it is a different story.

But that is only important if your goal is to keep up with/beat those cars. We don't know what the OP's goals are but I can only hope that he understands that, to support my above statements of the cars that I keep up with - I had to drop 5k in bolt-ons, lol. And that's just to be even-steven with those cars.

I want something that's pretty unique, so I'm going with building my j35 motor - most people will probably think i'm insane, which is ok. I can't find any other car on the road that I think looks as good as the 3G TL unless I am looking to spend north of $40k, so I'd rather drop sub-10k to have a built TL that can keep up with a stock 5.0 Coyote all day long, and just fix it when it breaks.

You gotta be a special kinda crazy, like me, to really push a TL beyond its intended use. I would still direct the average TL driver to steer clear of spending much on performance mods, for every reason you've stated, lol.

Meacura86

There was no other opion i can only buy the AT model!
I didn´t want a Racecar but i wont little more power for me! To fuck other guys on the traffic light!

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Meacura86

I´m mean that i beat the guys on a traffic light race

Meacura86

so i have a question what mean stock?
in example stock TL
Mean it that the car is without mods

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, stock refers to no modifications.

Gil'sUA5

CAI 7-10 hp? Exhaust 14-15 hp? Cmon now lets not lie to the guy.

Meacura86

Also the Tanabe Touring what bring it on PS?

pohljm

your gonna have to do a conversion from HP to metric, but in any case the gains are not that much for the $$ invested.

Scottwax

I'd do a cold air intake and a j-pipe, those seems to be the ones most people say that can actually feel...although I do know of at least one person that lost power on a dyno (J30 5AT Accord) with the J-pipe. Ought to be enough to get you 2-3 car lengths on a stock version of your car.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

If you do the J-pipe and PCD combo you're bottom end power is going to go to shit.

If your goal is to fuck other people off the light, then I would do CAI, lightweight crank pulley, RV6 PCDs.

If you're inclined and able, build your own CAI. They're not worth the money on the market new.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

fixed.

Nick216

My goal is to look sexy as fuck at the light.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

This and this.

I'm doing me an RSX-S with a Frankenstein K24 on k-pro.
Nothing will ever beat the sexiness of the TL, but modding money on an S2000/RSX will go a lot further than it will on the TL.
At least that's how its felt to me.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

I will go ahead and second this. I hate basing things off my butt dyno, but that was one of the first things that I almost immediately noticed upon installing my AEM V2 CAI and RV6 V3 Jpipe - a loss in the low end. No idea why this is, but it was a bit disappointing. I might not even put my Jpipe on my new TL type-s 6MT because of this. Any idea why this is? Would some custom tunes be able to fix this or is it due to less back pressure?

I need to map out a project build and project car. There are so many more cars/engines that you can a proportionally better $/HP gain than the TL. Almost all lol. I'm thinking LS1 and than just picking a car.

Meacura86

But 10 PS can I put out with the Exhaust system from Tanabe?
I love the TL the Design is amazing! I wish the Build a UA6/7 with the 3.7 litre Maschina and sh-awd