Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I am installing an oil cooler to prepare for the turbo and am stuck on what size to run. I bought a Earl's 4'' tall by 8'' long by 2'' thick with 6-AN hose, but upon inspection both the size of the cooler and hose seem too small.

What does everyone think about using a 4'' tall x 12'' long x 2'' thick with the 8- AN connectors?

I am also considering running a ford style oil filter since I have to relocate it anyway, if anyone has any ideas yes or no.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the larger cooler is going to be the way to go, the smaller one is just not going to do the job. I can't wait to try out the new nylon braided hose instead of the PITA to put together steel braided house.

My only concern about the 8-An line is, I have heard the TL runs very low oil pressure and might need the 6-AN lines to keep whatever pressure it has.

NAiL05

If your talkin engine oil cooler then too big is never too good. Overcooling oil has drastic effects on the engines ability to function properly. Transmissions on the other hand is a different story.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I am talking about an engine oil cooler and my concern is the extra heat produced by cooling the turbo and engine. What effects do over cooling the oil have? I always thought the cooler the oil the better. Maybe I should stay with the smaller oil cooler.

NAiL05

You can sludge the oil and basic stuff like that...Engine oil usually runs efficiently around 180-200 degrees F. Thats the optimal temp you want to keep.

chase p

Most people recommend using an oil thermostat before the oil lines reach any after-market oil cooler. This will allow the oil to bypass the cooler during warm-up.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I am confused as to how that would work, unless I some how bypassed the oil cooler. I can't stop the flow of oil and diverting it around the oil cooler but thru the filter or even by pass the both until the oil heats up seems tough.

Opel

i think this is pointless, a waste of time money and effort. But that's probably just me.
ur better off, quicker solution, and just as effortless as changing the oil, if u used 10w30 instead of manufacturers recommended 5w20
or 10w40 for that matter.
You want some more protection for the turbo? go with 30, or 40, at 220 degrees it will offer same protection as 20 cold.
Btw, i sense you only want this bcs of the turbo...how much power do you plan on pursuing? You're also already SCed, am i correct? If this is true, how come you haven't thought of motor oil cooler while you've been running the SCed the whole time?

reason i say all this is bcs i dont see anyone reaching levels where such would be needed. Not trying to be discouraging.
Id rather get a bigger oil pan made, so i can stuff few more quarts in there

NAiL05

What Opel said pretty much sums it up. The only time I see this in use is if he does track this vehicle as in Road course where the RPM's are consistently up in the range and the oil doesnt have much time to cool. Other than that I see no need for it. Usually if your just gonna pass down the track or highway you just let the car sit idle for a few min then shut it off. That seems to work. All my turbo buddies do that they do not run coolers. They do a lot of drag racing and short courses as in Autocross and so on. So you can spend your money elsewhere and get something better.

I hate cars

Opel has good advice as always. Think of it this way, if the oil usually runs at 190 now and it averages 220 with the turbo a 30wt at 220 will have the same viscosity as a 20wt at 190.

With oil, my personal recommendation is to run Redline 5w-30 because it has a super high HTHS which will protect the engine from the huge torque increase and provide enough oil pressure too. This is the sort of thing Redline was made for. If you run anything else, a QUALITY 5w-40 to 15w-40 would be recommended depending on where you live. Remember, most Honda engines spec a 40wt overseas so you're not going to hurt anything unless you live in a very cold region.

As for the cooler..... You want as much capacity as possible without the temps going too low. You want oil above 160 degrees, I would shoot for 180 as an average. Most cars run 190 to 200 degrees for oil. In other words if you want a huge cooler, some sort of thermostat would be necessary to keep temps from going too low.

Another thing to think about, I can use my GN as an example. I'm making over double the factory hp as you will too. I have a huge cooler but the cooler still wouldn't stop the initial temp spike. I saw temps as large as 320 degrees if I did much more than a 1/4 pass and the cooler was overwhelmed. The stock 5 quarts was not enough to buffer the initial impact. Nearly doubling the capacity really helped to knock temps down. I know no one makes a large capacity pan for the TL but that is my next point.

The more oil you have n the cooler and lines, the more oil you have period. You can get an easy 1.5 quarts from a large cooler and lines. Throw a large remote filter in there for an additional .5 quarts. 7 quarts is much, much better than 5.

Oil pressure will not drop with larger lines and indicated pressure won't drop depending on where your sensor for the gauge is. An oil pump is a positive displacement pump. It will pump the exact same volume of oil at a given rpm whether it's under 5psi or 80psi unless it goes into relief which is not likely once it's warmed up. So if the oil gauge pressure sensor is between the pump and cooler you will see an oil pressure increase due to the slight restriction but the engine will see the same pressure and volume as always. If it's at the entry into the engine after the cooler, pressure will be unaffected at the gauge and unaffected at the engine too.

When mounting the cooler, try and keep the cooler and lines low and use a good filter with a good anti-drainback valve. You don't want 2 quarts of oil draining back into the engine when you shut it down.

Most B&M coolers have a sort of automatic thermostat built in. The top row is large and when cold most of the oil flows through it. As the oil warms up it allows flow through the whole cooler. I've seen this with my transmission, it will cool off rapidly to about 160 on the freeway and then hover there. I think this is a better setup (more reliable) than an actual oil thermostat.

You're on the right path, just make sure to implement it well. Since you're already going to be constructing a cooler circuit, make sure to add a temp sensor in there somewhere so you can check the effectiveness of your work or see if the oil is running too hot or cold. Of course, a stick on pan sensor would be easy and tell you the bulk oil temp too.

I hate cars

I did get a little ahead of myself. Your driving style will have the largest impact on whether you need a cooler but doubling the factory hp will likely require the cooler.

First things first, run the Redline 5w-30 no matter what. Install a pan temperature guage and keep close tabs on it. These two are the minimum requirements. Drive it for a while and get an idea of your worst case oil temps. If they're going above 240 which they likely will, an oil pressure guage is a good idea to make sure the 30wt is thick enough at hot idle.

Redline will take 280 degrees easily on a daily basis with bursts of >320 degrees without damage. However, keep in mind all you're getting is a snapshot of the bulk temp. In the ring packs the oil is exposed to double the temps.

Also, just because the oil will hold up, don't forget that oil is the primary cooler of the pistons, not water. Those stock pistons aren't going to be happy at 500lbs of torque at the flywheel with 300 degree oil "cooling" them.

Opel

Exactly the reason why I said what I said....
I dont think he needs it...only because he hasn't blow his motor with the SC yet lol, simply due to the fact that he doesn't drive it hard enough. So whats to say the turbo wont be driven in the same manner?

Either way, once again I apologize for my harsh posting (im still working on a cure, bare with me lol)

I hate cars

That's true. There's a huge difference in a little spurt here and there and doing a top end run lol.

Let me know if you find that cure. I think I have the same problem.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

So go with a cooler and you think 8 AN lines will be fine.
Now interms of the oil temp sensor, should this be a temporary setup just to get an idea of temps?

Opel said there is no need for an oil cooler, that using thicker oil a 10w30 or even 40w will give me the protection I need. I am running redline 10w30 already and have been for a while, I just see the turbo raising oil temps more that the blower and an oil cooler being needed to deal with that heat. I have the Earls plate style oil cooler since it seems more sturdy and mounted in the bumper will likely be exposed it to some rocks and other flying debris.

Opel

lol, I did have a little experiment in the past month on something that I thought could be a cure. I named it "Not posting" lol
So far, thats it! lol