Help! Going custom stage 3 and I need your input.
Help! Going custom stage 3 and I need your input.
Alright so... in the morning, I was set on the Greddy Evo2. After watching EVERY SINGLE YouTube video, I've decided its too loud for me. Then I saw this post (https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...postcount=1309).
Now, hacking up the stock setup isn't something I want to do so I think I'm just gonna go full custom. This is what I'm thinking... please feel free to make ANY suggestions: (red items are things I already own)
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Dynomax 2.5" resonator (WLK-24215) -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.25" dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x universal mufflers.
What do you guys think? All piping will be mandrel bent. Comments/suggestions regarding pipe sizing and brand of components are welcome. For metallurgy, sticking with SS because aluminum is crap for Chicago.
My list for universal mufflers: (prices from Excelerate)
Vibrant TPV Ti tips $170

Vibrant TPV $140

Tanabe Medallion $204-240

HKS Universal Stainless Hi-Power Ti Muffler $230-250

Skunk2 Universal Muffler $135

MagnaFlow Universal Muffler with Tips - Street Series $130-140

MagnaFlow Universal Muffler with Tips - Race Series $140

There were a couple others but oh well.
Any suggestions for the Ypipe?
Thanks in advance guys.
Now, hacking up the stock setup isn't something I want to do so I think I'm just gonna go full custom. This is what I'm thinking... please feel free to make ANY suggestions: (red items are things I already own)
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Dynomax 2.5" resonator (WLK-24215) -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.25" dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x universal mufflers.
What do you guys think? All piping will be mandrel bent. Comments/suggestions regarding pipe sizing and brand of components are welcome. For metallurgy, sticking with SS because aluminum is crap for Chicago.
My list for universal mufflers: (prices from Excelerate)
Vibrant TPV Ti tips $170

Vibrant TPV $140

Tanabe Medallion $204-240

HKS Universal Stainless Hi-Power Ti Muffler $230-250

Skunk2 Universal Muffler $135

MagnaFlow Universal Muffler with Tips - Street Series $130-140

MagnaFlow Universal Muffler with Tips - Race Series $140

There were a couple others but oh well.
Any suggestions for the Ypipe?
Thanks in advance guys.
That won't be as loud as Greddy but not as quiet as you want. I'd say stick with the stock 14" resonator instead of the 12" one if you're worried about sound, maybe even larger.
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,734
Likes: 12
From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
first off, sell the test pipe, you really don't need it
I would do the following
precat deletes -> jpipe -> custom
and I would definitely not use vibrant, not the best sounding, either do the hks, skunk2 or tanabe
look up my video of my skunk2 - youtube.com/stillhere153
as for the resonator, aero 2.5" all the way, dynomax creates drone imo
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ust-Resonators
I would do the following
precat deletes -> jpipe -> custom
and I would definitely not use vibrant, not the best sounding, either do the hks, skunk2 or tanabe
look up my video of my skunk2 - youtube.com/stillhere153
as for the resonator, aero 2.5" all the way, dynomax creates drone imo
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ust-Resonators
Last edited by stillhere153; Sep 13, 2008 at 01:28 AM.
Damn you fools never SLEEP! Haha
Aight, well, from all the "stage 3" vids I've seen, I'm good with that about of sound.
Regarding the test pipe, if I have it, I might as well keep it. Please, its resonated so why not right?
I really want those Tanabe Medallions but shit, $200-250 for one?? Fuck me! That Skunk2 one is much cheaper. Al, whats your take on Tanabe vs. Skunk2? They seem to be pretty identical.
Can I keep it like this?
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Aero 2.5" resonator -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld5"-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.2 dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x Tanabe/Skunk2 universal mufflers
What about the Ypipe guys??
Aight, well, from all the "stage 3" vids I've seen, I'm good with that about of sound.
Regarding the test pipe, if I have it, I might as well keep it. Please, its resonated so why not right?
I really want those Tanabe Medallions but shit, $200-250 for one?? Fuck me! That Skunk2 one is much cheaper. Al, whats your take on Tanabe vs. Skunk2? They seem to be pretty identical.
Can I keep it like this?
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Aero 2.5" resonator -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld5"-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.2 dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x Tanabe/Skunk2 universal mufflers
What about the Ypipe guys??
I kind of feel like you're giving yourself more headaches than you really need...
All these exhaust combo's you've been throwing around are madness, there are several pretty awesome cat backs meant specifically for our cars, and they're SS. Running an after market J-pipe to a 2.25 inch test pipe back to a 2.5 inch pipe and resonator doesn't really make sense.
What sort of tone and look are you looking for?
All these exhaust combo's you've been throwing around are madness, there are several pretty awesome cat backs meant specifically for our cars, and they're SS. Running an after market J-pipe to a 2.25 inch test pipe back to a 2.5 inch pipe and resonator doesn't really make sense.
What sort of tone and look are you looking for?
Don't really know exactly how to describe how I want it to sound. No drone for sure... check these out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3iTXX_EYMU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpswQkRVr5o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcc9fsK7tPc&NR=1
Do the universal mufflers change the exhaust note? In the last vid, the guys got flowmasters and it sounds sick.
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Ehh honestly I'm not feelin any of those exhausts the tanabe and the last magnaflow only ones that looks decent without looking gawdy and ricey. I still think you should do the Greddy's
I like the Magnaflows too. Any difference on the shape on the muffler? Round vs oval?
Whats option 4?
I really like the Tanabes. Bforbrian has those on his car before the ATLPs. The Greddy setup with the Aero resonator is gonna run me about $1000 including labor. This custom setup will definitely be less than that. I can use the money saved for my next mod
I really like the Tanabes. Bforbrian has those on his car before the ATLPs. The Greddy setup with the Aero resonator is gonna run me about $1000 including labor. This custom setup will definitely be less than that. I can use the money saved for my next mod
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,734
Likes: 12
From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
to be honest I loved my old skunk2 custom catback, I only got rid of it when I got the greddy evo2....
check out some pics of my buddy DJ KHALID
.... skunk2 canisters on an NBP


pm me if you need a price deal on the skunk2 I have a connect for yah
check out some pics of my buddy DJ KHALID
.... skunk2 canisters on an NBP

pm me if you need a price deal on the skunk2 I have a connect for yah
Yeah that shit looks good. Do you have any experience with Tanabe? If they are similar enough, I'd go with the cheaper ones (Skunk2). PM sent.
What was your set up like? Was the EvoII still louder?
What was your set up like? Was the EvoII still louder?
Damn you fools never SLEEP! Haha
Aight, well, from all the "stage 3" vids I've seen, I'm good with that about of sound.
Regarding the test pipe, if I have it, I might as well keep it. Please, its resonated so why not right?
I really want those Tanabe Medallions but shit, $200-250 for one?? Fuck me! That Skunk2 one is much cheaper. Al, whats your take on Tanabe vs. Skunk2? They seem to be pretty identical.
Can I keep it like this?
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Aero 2.5" resonator -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld5"-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.2 dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x Tanabe/Skunk2 universal mufflers
What about the Ypipe guys??
Aight, well, from all the "stage 3" vids I've seen, I'm good with that about of sound.
Regarding the test pipe, if I have it, I might as well keep it. Please, its resonated so why not right?
I really want those Tanabe Medallions but shit, $200-250 for one?? Fuck me! That Skunk2 one is much cheaper. Al, whats your take on Tanabe vs. Skunk2? They seem to be pretty identical.
Can I keep it like this?
Jshift precat deletes -flange-> Jshift Jpipe -flange-> Jshift test pipe -flange-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld-> Aero 2.5" resonator -weld-> 2.5" ID SS pipe -weld5"-> Ypipe 2.5" single inlet, 2.2 dual outlet -weld-> 2.25" ID SS pipe -weld-> 2x Tanabe/Skunk2 universal mufflers
What about the Ypipe guys??
OK so... if I go with the Skunk2 cans...
Skunk2 mufflers + Aero resonator + Y pipe + piping + labor = ~$750
Greddy Evo2 + Aero resonator + labor = ~$1000
I think I'm gonna go with the first set up... hopefully I can order everything tomorrow and receive every by the end of the week. I'm gonna try to get this in by Sunday...
Skunk2 mufflers + Aero resonator + Y pipe + piping + labor = ~$750
Greddy Evo2 + Aero resonator + labor = ~$1000
I think I'm gonna go with the first set up... hopefully I can order everything tomorrow and receive every by the end of the week. I'm gonna try to get this in by Sunday...
OK I need AZs help yet again.
To get a quote from shops, I need an estimate on the length of pipe I'll need. Please keep in mind that I'll be using a 14" resonator so take that out of your estimate.
Thanks
To get a quote from shops, I need an estimate on the length of pipe I'll need. Please keep in mind that I'll be using a 14" resonator so take that out of your estimate.
Thanks
im not too sure if its considered stage 4 or what
i just put it on there because i think it sounds good haha
its not too loud but it has some tone to it
i have a sound clip but it does no justice at all
in the beggininng it sounds like a damn ricer but i will post it anyway to give you a little idea
[IMG]
[/IMG]
i just put it on there because i think it sounds good haha
its not too loud but it has some tone to it
i have a sound clip but it does no justice at all
in the beggininng it sounds like a damn ricer but i will post it anyway to give you a little idea
[IMG]
[/IMG]
i dont know all the stages and i was just reading the thread about it the other day haha
and yeah, everyone has their own taste and ive never heard the ATLP or anything else really in person but id like to!
Yeah I don't have the option of driving 10 mins to some dudes house to listen to his new ATLP or Greddy or whatever exhaust like those bastards in CA or the tri-state area
Makes me angry... and very jealous
Makes me angry... and very jealous
not many people around me have ATLP
a few in charlotte are fixed up a little, like accurratien (eric) haha
and a few others on here, i cant remember their names tho
Calling all mechanics and mechanical engineers!
Hey guys I need some help:
No one in IL mandrel bends 304 SS... only aluminized steel, which isn't ideal for the amount of snow (and salt) our cars experience (one shop owner said an aluminized steel exhaust will last 3 years!!).
I made some calls yesterday and this is what I have to work with:
1. mandrel bent aluminized steel, MIG
2. mandrel bent aluminized steel, TIG
3. pre-mandrel bent 304 SS, MIG
4. pre-mandrel bent 304 SS, TIG
5. pressure bent 304 SS, MIG
6. pressure bent 304 SS, TIG
Ok so out of those options, I'd rather go with option #4. Also, one of the shops that mandrel bends their aluminized steel can spray the pipes with a rust inhibitor, which should prolong the life of the metal. Another option they have is to powdercoat the pipes with a substance that acts like a rust inhibitor and also dissipates heat better.
Some final questions:
- Now, I've done my research and I know mandrel bending is the way to go because you can maintain an almost-consistent cross sectional area throughout the bends. Obviously, pressure bending isn't recommended but how much of a difference will this make with my setup/car?
- Another question I have is regarding the welds. If I go with the pieced together 304 SS pipe sections, I'll have many more welds than I'd like. Aside from aesthetics, each weld introduces a new stress concentration. With the salt/weather and the altered material properties in the heat affected zones in the base metal, what kind of life expectancy should I expect to see from these TIG welded pipes? Lets assume best case scenario... very experienced welder, no bottoming out etc.
Thanks,
Jason
No one in IL mandrel bends 304 SS... only aluminized steel, which isn't ideal for the amount of snow (and salt) our cars experience (one shop owner said an aluminized steel exhaust will last 3 years!!).
I made some calls yesterday and this is what I have to work with:
1. mandrel bent aluminized steel, MIG
2. mandrel bent aluminized steel, TIG
3. pre-mandrel bent 304 SS, MIG
4. pre-mandrel bent 304 SS, TIG
5. pressure bent 304 SS, MIG
6. pressure bent 304 SS, TIG
Ok so out of those options, I'd rather go with option #4. Also, one of the shops that mandrel bends their aluminized steel can spray the pipes with a rust inhibitor, which should prolong the life of the metal. Another option they have is to powdercoat the pipes with a substance that acts like a rust inhibitor and also dissipates heat better.
Some final questions:
- Now, I've done my research and I know mandrel bending is the way to go because you can maintain an almost-consistent cross sectional area throughout the bends. Obviously, pressure bending isn't recommended but how much of a difference will this make with my setup/car?
- Another question I have is regarding the welds. If I go with the pieced together 304 SS pipe sections, I'll have many more welds than I'd like. Aside from aesthetics, each weld introduces a new stress concentration. With the salt/weather and the altered material properties in the heat affected zones in the base metal, what kind of life expectancy should I expect to see from these TIG welded pipes? Lets assume best case scenario... very experienced welder, no bottoming out etc.
Thanks,
Jason
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